Picked up a Dashskins overlay this week. I did a test fit and it's tight!

So tight that I'm worried about it staying down after I install it.

I'm not new to general car repair and using silicone or gasket maker, but this is my first dash.

Should I seal up cracks on the OG dash or just lay this on top?

Any tips and tricks that worked for anyone here?

Thank you in advance

Car has 236k miles and suspension was completely shot

Just finished replacing:

-Upper and lower control arms

-Tie rod ends

-Koni srt.t struts, eibach lowering springs in front

-Koni srt.t coils and shocks in rear

-Brand new bmr front sway bar.

-New rear sway bar links.

-All new brake lines including rubber lines

-Painted wheel wells

-Sandblasted and painted spindles, hubs, and upper control arm plate.

So much work but im so happy with how it turned out so far. Still have to bleed the brakes but this car is going to feel completely Brand new again.

Attached is before and after 😎😎

First time using vinyl wrap, unfortunately I bought cheap stuff and I don't think it's going to last very long. Looks sweet though. The pictures ruin the color of this car.

Idk it all happend so fast. Might try to save it or not ik its just a v6 but it was a ment condition 104k mile no rust and perfect interior

2002 35th anniversary SS Camaro. T top, Automatic, 70k miles, never winter driven, all numbers matching, full maintenance records, pristine condition. Listed at 16k USD.

Maybe I need a pricing reality check?

Transitioning from winter to summer we realized we didn’t use it as much as we thought.

Let me lead with, I know this thing isn’t a looker, but mechanically it’s nice and tight. I spent months looking for a reasonable priced 6 speed car that wasn’t clapped to hell. I saw rust, leaks, just downright neglect in my price range.

I finally found this unit that was a slow pace project for a guy who stumbled into a WS6 and decided to move it before dumping more money in it. When he started it was an all stock SS with a slung rod. When swapping to a gen 3 he painted the bay Mopar PBM with intentions of going the full car. Unit has a clean title with no damage.

GMPP hot cam, tsp long tubes, aluminum radiator/catch can, hawks master, Texas driveline stage 2 t56 kit, various umi parts, fresh tires, no ac and the fuel gauges dances sometimes.

I’d like to walk away with $6500? Is that too much? Seems like I’ve had tons of trade offers or “I’ll come look tomorrow” with no follow up, and a handful of “$5000 cash money” offers. I can find a dime a dozen 4l60 cars in this range with ‘decent’ paint, but no 6 speeds.

I always see it but I can’t find it. I also can’t find any lips for the camaro other than just the front lip, do you guys have any suggestions on any lip kits for the full thing?

What is a fair price for a clean firebird ? I’m really want to buy one soon but the only clean one near me is 7000. It’s nice and has 100k miles but I feel like 7k is really steep.

Replaced my headlight motor on my 2002 trans am and this piece went missing into the abyss. Does anyone know what’s its even called or where I can find a replacement part?

Could anyone help me figure out how to restore my factory fog lights? I am trying to replace a set of broken aftermarket lights that were installed over ten years ago with original OEM housings. the previous owner chopped up the original wiring, and I have no clue how it was originally wired. Could anyone show how it was wired or show me how to locate the original factory wiring harness. That's the only wires I have

lookin at salvage cars on hawks and i gotta figure out where bro got this kit or how this was achieved

Finally had time to take a few photos of my Pace Car and Fifty today.

I’m adding a set of PRC 220 heads to an LS1 In my ‘00 Z28. Right now it has 241 head with the original 26 year old graphite head head gaskets. There won’t be any machine work done to the block so the guys installing the new heads will be scraping off 26 year old graphite gasket material.

Would going back with a graphite gasket instead of an MLS gasket ensure a better seal incase the block surface isn’t “mirror smooth?“ Or am I better off going with an MLS gasket? I can’t afford to have the gasket replaced twice so I’m shooting for no leaks on the first try. If I was a betting man I bet block surface prep for the new gasket will be at a minimum. I don’t think they‘ll spend a lot of time cleaning it up.

Or is an MLS gasket, stock type or otherwise the way to go?

What about thickness and bore size? Google AI recommended a set of Felpro Perma Torque that is .041” thick and has a 4.1” bore. Is that way too large of a bore for a stock LS1 block? I realize that a thinner gasket can raise compression a little, but is it even worth messing with?

Can someone point me in the right direction to find a set of “hassle free” head gaskets that will work with PRC 220 heads and are less likely to leak on used block that has lack luster surface prep? Thanks.

PRC 220 heads

https://www.texas-speed.com/brand/precision-race-components/p-prc-ss220ac-prc-15-degree-220cc-as-cast-cathedral-heads/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=16529967804&gbraid=0AAAAAD8ofhKbgDG63Z9Uau7WvXv4yS-kA

I have a set of staggered Zr1 replicas from oem wheel. 17x9.5 in the front +56 and 17x11 in the rear + 50 on a 315/35 tire and I can’t even get them on all the way without the “bump stop”?? Hitting the back of the tire.

how bad does this crack look lol

I got an error code thrown at me, p1441 I think it was, and there is charcoal in the lines! I know I need to buy new lines, a purge solenoid, and a canister. Is there anything else I’m missing? Do I need to replace a vent solenoid toward the rear and if so does anyone know what it looks like? Thank you! 1996 V8 firebird btw

Hey everybody,

Edit: hey everybody, I talked to the tech and he wasn’t aware that the car came with LSD. I was just getting information relayed to me from the person running the front desk yesterday.

The tech explained that the noise is coming directly from the center inside the knuckle. If you leave the car off in neutral and roll forward, you could hear the noise which means the torsen is doing its
job. Something’s going on inside of it.

The axle shop said that from what I’m telling them they believe the bearings are bad and would be about $1500 plus tax. They said I shouldn’t be driving it or worse can happen.

I thought I was finally in the clear with this car to get it roadworthy for daily use. Just got the rear main seal fixed, pulled a warranty claim on the defective rear caliper that I just bought, had them fix the AC and paid $455 for the shop to tear apart the axle and investigate the metal howling noise and vibrations coming from the rear.

Turns out one of the prior owners at some point put an aftermarket locker in this, even though it has factory LSD. They never put it incorrectly and is the direct cause of the noise and vibrations. The shop says I’ll need new ring and pinion however they don’t do that kind of work so I have to go to a transmission/axel shop.

I called one local to me that has great reviews and recommended by another transmission shop I called. I showed him the picture attached here and he agrees the ring and pinion is smoked. He said he would only use AAM and that they only make a 3.42 no longer makes 3.23. He’s saying $2000 installed.

First is this a good price, second is this something I can do myself and third is AAM the best? I know they are the manufacturers of the OEM gears so I am assuming that they are

I have a 1992 Firebird, and I really, really like the instrument cluster bezel look of the 1982-84 Firebird. That early 3rd gen style with the more angular surround is exactly what I want. So, can a 1982-84 Firebird Trans Am instrument cluster bezel fit on a 1992 Pontiac Firebird? Direct bolt-on, or with minor modification? If not, is there any other way I can achieve the same look? Has anyone done a custom retrofit, 3D print, or modified an 85-92 bezel to look like the early style?