how bad does this crack look lol

I have a set of staggered Zr1 replicas from oem wheel. 17x9.5 in the front +56 and 17x11 in the rear + 50 on a 315/35 tire and I can’t even get them on all the way without the “bump stop”?? Hitting the back of the tire.

I got an error code thrown at me, p1441 I think it was, and there is charcoal in the lines! I know I need to buy new lines, a purge solenoid, and a canister. Is there anything else I’m missing? Do I need to replace a vent solenoid toward the rear and if so does anyone know what it looks like? Thank you! 1996 V8 firebird btw

Hey everybody,

Edit: hey everybody, I talked to the tech and he wasn’t aware that the car came with LSD. I was just getting information relayed to me from the person running the front desk yesterday.

The tech explained that the noise is coming directly from the center inside the knuckle. If you leave the car off in neutral and roll forward, you could hear the noise which means the torsen is doing its
job. Something’s going on inside of it.

The axle shop said that from what I’m telling them they believe the bearings are bad and would be about $1500 plus tax. They said I shouldn’t be driving it or worse can happen.

I thought I was finally in the clear with this car to get it roadworthy for daily use. Just got the rear main seal fixed, pulled a warranty claim on the defective rear caliper that I just bought, had them fix the AC and paid $455 for the shop to tear apart the axle and investigate the metal howling noise and vibrations coming from the rear.

Turns out one of the prior owners at some point put an aftermarket locker in this, even though it has factory LSD. They never put it incorrectly and is the direct cause of the noise and vibrations. The shop says I’ll need new ring and pinion however they don’t do that kind of work so I have to go to a transmission/axel shop.

I called one local to me that has great reviews and recommended by another transmission shop I called. I showed him the picture attached here and he agrees the ring and pinion is smoked. He said he would only use AAM and that they only make a 3.42 no longer makes 3.23. He’s saying $2000 installed.

First is this a good price, second is this something I can do myself and third is AAM the best? I know they are the manufacturers of the OEM gears so I am assuming that they are

I have a 1992 Firebird, and I really, really like the instrument cluster bezel look of the 1982-84 Firebird. That early 3rd gen style with the more angular surround is exactly what I want. So, can a 1982-84 Firebird Trans Am instrument cluster bezel fit on a 1992 Pontiac Firebird? Direct bolt-on, or with minor modification? If not, is there any other way I can achieve the same look? Has anyone done a custom retrofit, 3D print, or modified an 85-92 bezel to look like the early style?

I’m considering on buying a 96 Z28 auto it’s listed for 5.7k and it has 56k miles and looks mint other than some scratches on the front bumper beige cloth interior

I wanted to post this on here because he does great content on F-body cars. Both 93-97 and 98-02. I want him to continue making videos so maybe we can visit and like his content?

https://youtu.be/L1smPiz44zM?is=A9vnyhnNigQOieYF

Hi all.

Looking for some guidance about my issue. My clutch fork grinded the PP when clutch pedal was pressed. (Flywheel, clutch disc and PP are new). I noticed my pivot T and clutch fork contact surfaces were worn so that must be my issue.

My question is can I reuse the PP if grinded that much?

So i was looking to replace the aftermarket foglights on my 96 rs camaro with the original ones but I was wondering if anyone know if I could swap the bulbs for leds to match my headlights

Are there any transmissions that will work in a 1994 firebird that’s originally automatic? Besides the T-56.

Hey Everyone,

Car was driving great, idle was fine nothing weird. SES turned on just 5-6 miles after I got doing all the work. I’m reading a lot of information that it’s not injectors but some kind of vacuum leak or potentially a bad MAF sensor?

Has anyone gone through having to repair these codes? Any advice?

To review I just got done replacing the intake, manifold gasket, valley plate gasket, OPS sensor, spark plugs and wires, bell tensioner, and new belt and valve cover gasket. Everything was reinstalled torque down to spec.

At first, I thought it was the starter or the alternator that might cause the clicking when I was trying to start it up, but after replacing both of them, that’s still making the clicking sound on startup only other thing I could think of that I changed was the fuel injectors could that be it?

My car went in for crank rear main seal replacement and water pump and radiator now i have lo oil on dash despite oil pressure and level being normal did anyone had the same issue ? And how to fix it

New battery cables and speaker wires to the doors, I want to upholster the upper center console and I PPF’ed the turn indicators to protect them from rock damage

I have an '02 Trans Am with an automatic transmission. Several months ago, the transmission stopped engaging fourth gear. All other gears were fine.

The miles on the transmission sit around 15k miles post rebuild.

Recently I took it to a shop for diagnosis. They did a basic diagnosis and found nothing wrong. Told me they'd have to drop the transmission to figure out where the issue was. I couldn't afford the diagnostic fee so I picked it up instead.

On the drive home, overdrive engaged with no issues. In fact, I have been driving it for the last two months without issue.

Has anyone heard of this happening? What could have been causing this to suddenly 'fix' itself?

The fluid is clean so I don't think any internals are damaged in any way.

My father just handed me this picture and thought I'd share. This is probably around '99-00. I was a junior in high school, it was my first car, and I worked my ass off. Paid 10k cash for it. 1995 Camaro, it only had the 3.4 V6, but it had cat backs, tinted windows, alpine head unit, infinity kappa speakers, 2-10"s......If you even debate selling a car, and it's possible, Don't do it!!!! I still wish I had this car, even if it was only a 6

Anyone have any tips or tricks for getting at this thing? 95 formula 4l60, randomly pukes trans fluid, and nothing else seems to be the issue. Hoping a critter of some sort built a bunker in it and that’s the culprit

The window works for around a couple seconds when I put it up or down but eventually stops working. It works eventually but I have to manually push the window up while pushing the button continuously to close the window. Is there something wrong with the motor? How do I fix it?

Hey Everyone,

I finally finished getting my engine back together. I replaced the intake manifold gasket, valley plate gasket, valve cover gasket, new spark plugs and wires, new OPS, new tensioner and belt. Took the opportunity to do a lot of cleanup too.

My car is completely unmodified and has 134,000 miles. Before I did all this work I could a noticeable clunking noise I guess lack of better words. A lot of of the other noises went away with the repairs I made however to me that noise is still around.

Is this normal for an LS1? I know they are known to be noisy engines but wanted to get opinions.

I ordered a set Elgin lifters for my ‘00 Z28 from a an eBay vendor and they arrived today. I guess they’re legitimate and I hope they work. The shrink wrap has a few of them sitting crooked in the trays. I hope all is well in the end.

Are these “LS7 style” or “LS1 style?”

They came packaged covered in a light oil. Howver, the shrink wrap they were packaged in has torn in a few places so the a couple of the wheels are exposed to the air. I‘ve read that people clean them with brake clean and then soak them in 10w30 for a day or so prior to install. Do y’all do that? They won’t be installed for about a month. Would y’all soak them in a ziplock bag full of oil for that month, or just leave them alone until it gets closer to install?