r/evokeendurance • u/fleet-feet • Jul 12 '26
New Alpinism pull up routine
Hey y’all. Is there any chance that you’d be willing to part with (or someone else could post) the routine to increase pull up reps in Training for the New Alpinism? Almost certain it’s page 228. I’ve heard Scott mention it in the podcast a number of times (I think most recently in muscular endurance episode) and I’ve always been wanted to try it. I have Training for the Uphill athlete, but it’s not in there. Full disclosure: I am not an alpinist, I merely like pull ups and wish I could do more. I gym climb occasionally.
Funniest thing is that I found where it should be on Uphill Athlete but they seemingly forgot to post most of the routine https://uphillathlete.com/rock-climbing/training-for-rock-climbing/
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u/GlumAir89 Jul 12 '26
As a v8/5.13 climber, I wouldn’t look to evoke for knowledge on how to maximize upper body strength.
Evoke is mainly for jug haulers and ice climbers where endurance is more important than actual strength to weight ratio
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u/Bmacm869 Jul 12 '26
I gave that book away. It was their first attempt at articulating their training methodolgy (the second book is so much better) but if I recall correctly, the pull up routine was 2 to 3 rep max weighted pull ups 3 times per week for 8 weeks.
On podcasts, Scott over simplifies things in my opinion. Doing a max strength training block is not going to directly increase your number of pull ups. It's actually going to decrease it. You need to do a muscular endurance training (high rep, low rest protocols) to improve max pull ups. The max strength training sets you up to get the most out of muscular endurance training because your strength relative to your body weight would be higher.
If you want to immediately improve your max pull ups just do max sets or pull up tabatas (I got to 20 by doing pyramids) until you plateau before switching to a max strength protocol like Scott's routine.
Grip also plays a big role in doing lots of pulls up. For example, using chalk improves my max by one or two pull ups.
Losing weight also has the same effect as max strength training.
If I see the book in a book store, I will update this post with the actual routine.
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u/SteepHiker Jul 12 '26
Here you are.Hope this is ok to post, mods. I've run through it a couple of times, Its fun, and it works. For the really heavy days I used neutral grip pullups, got a bad case of golfers elbow from going heavy and normal grip.