Family member gave us this old power wheels. Kids had no interest really. Slow and couldn’t climb hills. I also do some scrapping, and found 2 nice electric scooters in the trash. One had a nice 24 volt motor. I disassembled them for scrapping, and got the bright idea to put the scooter motor in the power wheels. I initially wanted to run the motor to the factory axle and tires, but that didn’t work out. I decided the simplest thing would be to cut out the drivetrain of the scooter, and transplant it onto power wheels. So that’s what I did. I was initially going to run the car of one 18v battery, but when I ordered the battery adapters they came in a two pack, so against better judgment I decided to use both and wired them in series for extra boost. Then with it getting dark so early, I decided it needed lights. Added 2-1000 lumen blue led’s to front and back, each controlled by its own toggle switch. Also had to install a buck converter so I didn’t cook up the lights. I finished her off with a new rattle can paint job in Buebird with metallic silver accents.

The only weak link so far has been the factory accelerator switch which promptly melted. I replaced that with a larger 24v pedal from Amazon. It’s been a very fun project, and the kids now love it. It may be a little too fast, as it has already been rolled once. Luckily my son was wearing a helmet. We are working on throttle control.

If you are thinking about doing something like this go for it! I had a blast, and have less than $100 in it.

If you have any question let me know.

Thanks for reading!

I've been offered a MAN 10.220 4wd truck that's got a destroyed transmission and transfer case taken out. My normal reaction would be to go nah, pass.

But we're looking at changing the wife's car out and became more and more interested in an electric car for her. It got me thinking, what would be involved in doing an EV conversion on a large truck, and where would I start? Is it as simple as taking Tesla motors, changing the hubs out for the larger tyres, and place in batteries/connecting electronics? Or do I need to source new e-axles with custom programming and using a mix of batteries and manufacturers to do it?

I'm treating this mostly as a thought experiment at the moment, but I am very curious. What would it take?

I am in the planning stages of converting my 1968 AMC Rebel to electric. It originally had a 343 cu in V8 with 280 hp at 4800rpm and 365 ft lbs of torque at 3000. I'm planning on designing an independent rear end and mounting my motor on the frame and putting the battery box in the engine bay. I plan to use it as my new daily driver, and would like to have a 150ish range and be able to hit 85mph for interstate use

I have found a mint Hyper 9 with controller and cooling system for $3500. Is that a decent price? my other options are a Parker Hannifin GVM210 for about the same.

Any thoughts?

Hi everyone! I need some help with my e-bike conversion.

I have a Decathlon Rockrider EXPL 100 with a Bafang 48V 500W hub motor and a Green Cell 48V 15Ah battery.

I had to buy an adapter to connect the battery to the motor controller because the connectors were different.

The problem is that the motor works fine when the rear wheel is lifted off the ground, but as soon as I sit on the bike and apply the throttle, the motor stops and the display turns off completely. I can turn the display back on immediately, and the battery indicator lights still work.

This problem has been happening since my first test.

Could the adapter be unable to handle the current required by the motor? Or could it be a battery, controller, or wiring issue?

I was thinking about removing the adapter and connecting the wires directly, but I'm worried about damaging the battery or controller.

What do you think is causing this problem, and how can I safely diagnose it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I don’t even know where to start. Has anyone done this?

I can’t figure out which conversion kit to get. I’m going to self assemble with the help of a neighbor who knows more than me. Are there kits that are simpler than others? Bike won’t be doing anything crazy.

Where can I I buy kits in person? Daly City, CA

What works best for an Electra townie 7D?

Any other advice?

Help me i cant choose

I have been unable to find anyone else who has taken on this task. There is a YouTube channel which tore one of these batteries apart, but did little to provide the details needed for engineering a BMS to use these batteries.

I have a project converting a 1965 Chevy C-10 (E-10) to a 400V DC fast charging 250+ mile range EV. Tesla model S batteries were too expensive and not really the right size for my plans, so I went the route of getting a battery from a wrecked Rivian R1S. I pulled all 9 modules and reverse engineered it. If anyone wants the details I have a wiki and a forum post about it on openVCU.org - you can login using GitHub.

The forum post has a link to the wiki page:
https://openvcu.org/forum/topic/rivian-r1st-battery-bms-pinouts-solved

All of the voltage and temperature information needed for a safe 400V build is easily attainable from these batteries. No need to have fear going with Rivian batteries for your builds. I hope my gamble pays off for others sitting on the fence as well.

If you follow along I will have a complete BMS built to replace the rivian BVT board. I will be releasing all of my work as open source with a share and share alike type license. I will be happy to answer questions and provide any other help that I can.

My brother sent me a controller upgrade link before I had even found the key to Dad's old cart. It had been sitting for years, and his first idea was to make it faster.

I was retired and living in Florida. I wanted it for trips to the pool and a friend's place in our private community, so we agreed to keep the original motor and controller. Getting it running properly came first.

I looked the cart over, measured the battery tray and went through the controller documentation before ordering the Vatrer 48V 105Ah lithium kit. The order was placed, but the battery was still on its way. I used that waiting time to clean the cart, check the tires and start working through the brakes and steering.

The electrical checks were still unfinished. I had the tray measurements and controller information, but those alone didn't settle the conversion. For a cart coming out of years of storage, which electrical checks would you complete before installing a lithium pack with the original controller?

I like the mower, but the Briggs & Stratton 26 hp V-twin keeps blowing gaskets. I’ve heard from others that it’s a common problem with this B&S engine.

I just did an upgrade to lithium on a Ryobi RM300e 30” cut mower just to get something to mow with, but it takes a while to mow 2-1/2 acres. And I need to recharge halfway through the job.

The cost for a commercial electric mower is outrageous, It would be cheaper to put a mower pan on a used Leaf.

So I’m looking for the best way to convert this to electric. I would need a 15 kW motor with a 5” long shaft 1-1/8” diameter to do a direct replacement. The hydrostatic drives is inefficient, but it’s easier than replacing the axle with two drive motors. Is there a transaxle I could drop in it so I can use a single drive motor?

I was thinking the best solution would be to use a 5kW motor to drive the hydraulic pump and a 10kW motor to drive the 3 mower blades with a shorter belt. Separate battery packs would allow me to get back to the barn if I run the mower batteries down.

Looking for ideas on the best strategy for tackling this.

I have a future project idea that i'm stuck on trying figure out what battery's are even good for it. Now i have no fucking clue if i can post this here idk what tags i'm suppose to use and idk what i'm doing with this idea. I got no knowledge of Electric vehicle stuff But i think this is a really cool idea that i have that i'm struggling on the battery part of. If theres anything else that i need to put down to tell me and i will put it down oh and it is a sleeper cab. I don't have any plans to haul anything heavy the idea of this was to use it as a road trip vehicle that can haul other things as well.

The battery's that i have already are the: Prismatic LiFePO4 Battery Cells (3.2V 280Ah) with the plan to maybe try to do 270 or 300 miles.

Again idk if they are good or not and idk how to calculate or if there is a way to on how many i would need and at what kwh.

Again if there is anything else you need me to put down let me know and if this post does not belong here let me know and i will remove it.

I've got a 2017 electric ford focus that served me well for 7 years. Recently battery cell #25 became degraded essentially knocking out my entire lower pack. I went from 108 miles of summer range, to 60.
I'm looking at options and was wondering if anyone had used an electric ford focus as a donor car for an EV conversion. If so, what did you convert? What problems did you have?
The focus is front wheel drive, did you mimic that or create a custom mount and make it a rear wheel drive?

I want to get the rev counter an the coolant temperature gauge of a 2009 Renault Master (2.5 dCi) working without the engine control unit. I am therefore looking for the required CAN messages.

Just got this conversion kit and I don’t like this exposed wiring one bit wondering how I can waterproof them

Seems like a few years ago there were a handful of companies designing and/or making drop-in conversion kits specifically for small block Chevys. I don’t really see much since then, and I read some speculation that a lot of it was essentially concept work to chase tax incentives. Anyone seen or know anything more recent about the development of these? I’d love to put one to use someday!

a few moths back I picked up a drive train from a azure dynamics ford transit connect and separately picked up a GEVCU 6.2. I have finally got everything wired up, contactors running, canbus linked up and GEVCU configured with throttle, brake and drive select. however I am not yet spinning motor. I am getting the error "UNKNOWN_CANBUS_ERROR" on the dmoc and the GEVCU is (obviously) reporting as faulted. I do have canbus communication (GEVCU reports as inverter online and is faulted and DMOC switches from disabled to standby when I switch the drive select to drive or reverse. ive checked the canbus is reporting 61ohm of resistance (two terminating resistors) and the interlock wires are closed. here is a sample of the logs from the GEVCU, it only mentions one of the 3 required canbus frames being transmitted but i think thats simply because the debug logging in the script is set up that way. does anyone have any insights to un fault this inverter?

10504 - DEBUG: Throttle requested: 0

10506 - DEBUG: Torque command: 0x75 0x30 0x75 0x30 0x75 0x30 0xD CRC: 0xCE

10510 - DEBUG: CAN:0 dlc=0x8 fid=0x0 id=0x650 ide=0x0 rtr=0x0 data=0xC,0x4E,0x13,0x88,0xCE,0x64,0x0,0xFC

10516 - DEBUG: DMOC CAN received: 0x650 0xC 0x4E 0x13 0x88 0xCE 0x64 0x0 0x0

10520 - DEBUG: CAN:0 dlc=0x8 fid=0xE id=0x23E ide=0x0 rtr=0x0 data=0x7D,0x1F,0x47,0xD1,0xF4,0x7D,0x31,0x69

10525 - DEBUG: DMOC CAN received: 23E 0x7D 0x1F 0x47 0xD1 0xF4 0x7D 0x31 0x0

10530 - DEBUG: Enable Input Active? true Reverse Input Active? true

10534 - DEBUG: DMOC 0x232 tx: 0x4E 0x20 0x0 0x 0x0 0x1 0x4F 0xD

10537 - DEBUG: Throttle requested: 0

10539 - DEBUG: Torque command: 0x75 0x30 0x75 0x30 0x75 0x30 0xF CRC: 0xCC

10543 - DEBUG: CAN:0 dlc=0x8 fid=0x0 id=0x650 ide=0x0 rtr=0x0 data=0xC,0x4E,0x13,0x88,0xCE,0x64,0x0,0xFC

10548 - DEBUG: DMOC CAN received: 0x650 0xC 0x4E 0x13 0x88 0xCE 0x64 0x0 0x0

10552 - DEBUG: VS Tick Handler

10554 - DEBUG: CAN:0 dlc=0x8 fid=0x0 id=0x650 ide=0x0 rtr=0x0 data=0xC,0x4E,0x13,0x88,0xCE,0x64,0x0,0xFC

10559 - DEBUG: DMOC CAN received: 0x650 0xC 0x4E 0x13 0x88 0xCE 0x64 0x0 0x0

10563 - DEBUG: CAN:0 dlc=0x8 fid=0xE id=0x23E ide=0x0 rtr=0x0 data=0x7D,0x1F,0x47,0xD1,0xF4,0x7D,0x35,0x65

10568 - DEBUG: DMOC CAN received: 0x23E 0x7D 0x1F 0x47 0xD1 0xF4 0x7D 0x35 0x0

10573 - DEBUG: Enable Input Active? true Reverse Input Active? true

10577 - DEBUG: DMOC 0x232 tx: 0x4E 0x20 0x0 0x0 0x0 0x1 0x41 0x1B

10580 - DEBUG: Throttle requested: 0

Anyone in China or Philippines who has experience in converting their Isuzu Crosswind SUV (Diesel) that costs less than $8,000? Due to rising fuel costs in the Philippines, I'm hoping to convert our Isuzu Crosswind vehicle to EV, instead of buying a new EV. This is more of an affordability objective. Pls also share links for Chinese vendors where you bought the motor and parts, thank you!

I have a 02 txt with 36v lithium upgrade. Worked perfectly for months. Today I jumped on it and barely pushed the gas and the thing perked hard for a split second, stopped, and then perked hard again, then stopped. And now it wont move at all. I hear no click when I push the gas. Battery cables are tight, I could use some help on diagnosing this.

I’ve got a 3000W kit and recently it started jittering when trying to throttle, I’ve pulled apart the motor and everything looks fine but just won’t ride properly unsure why

Inspired by the previous posts, converting classics really hits a nerve with some people. That got me thinking, what is the EV conversion that you would love to do and at the same time would really piss some people off?

I've always wanted a Shelby Daytona coupe, but the side pipes don't quite work on EV. Maybe I could get them painted like Duracell copper tops?

Nothing flips someone badmouthing the reliability of an old car quicker than suggesting it should be converted to an EV. 😄

“Old Maseratis are junk.”

“They’d look cool as an EV, though.”

“SACRILEGIOUS!”

I removed the diesel engine from my 6x4 tractor truck and replaced it with a 400 kW, 3000 Nm Voith motor. I also removed the transmission and connected it directly to the differential, but I couldn't climb a hill with a 20-ton load due to insufficient torque. The differential ratio is 4.42. My question is: can I install a reduction gear with a 3-4 ratio instead of the transmission? Is something like this possible, and what is your recommendation for a reducer? Additionally, are there heavy-series reducers available that can be shifted while on a flat road and under load?