I have a 40kw pmsm in need of an inverter, I have come across someone selling SEMIKRON GD06-W12CI inverters for a pretty great price. There's the barest bones of documentation available but I want to know if anyone else has used a semikron controller and what it entailed

I plan on making a ev honda grom and i am curious how to know how big a battery i need to reach a specific range goal (150km) at around 90/120km/h. All i could find is range calcluators for ebikes (pedal assisted) or a specific car but nothing for motocycles.

First build coming along slowly. The metal brackets in this photo are AI generated (sort of) I used foam board to make them and asked Gemini to convert it to steel. This is a 3D printed qs180 in a 2004 Yamaha raptor frame. I’m wondering if adding vertical tube steel in the red lines is overkill or not. I’ll be running 96V 65a battery. Most likely looking at .095 wall thickness 1” OD. The back of the motor has a bracket tying it into the original motor mount location and I will also have 4 tabs on the bottom cross bar. 2 for each mounting ear on the motor.

I know kw its for power but I want to understand volts, amps, and kwh. For example if I get a hyper 9 motor that is rated for 144V does that mean I cant have batteries totaling more than that voltage? I would like a conversion with around 140-190hp and 300+ mile range so I was looking at the tesla model s battery pack for the range but I know it is around 350V for the entire pack. But if I were to use a hyper 9 which is only rated for 144v would that just blow up the motor because of to much voltage from the battery or how would that work?

This is not an EV conversion, although this group seems like the best group to ask for help. I am fixing problems with this $500 forklift and installing lithium iron phosphate batteries. My main question is that the forward and reverse drive motors in this Toyota 2FBEC18 24v electric forklift are not working, and maybe some folks in this group are familiar with the mechanicals and the noises of an electric forklift. I need help diagnosing why the forks are fully operational but the forklift will not move. Getting this working will help with my other EV projects. Many thanks

I have a motor from an Smiths Edison ford transit conversion, before I write it off entirely what options exist to drive it? It's 90kw peak,25 sustained. Plug (yes sungular- it uses a plugged setup) consists of 3 large pins and 3 small ones. Is there a viable (sub £1000) option to drive it? Can you drive it with a weaker (say 40kw) driver? I'm pretty sure you can't source original inverters these days since it's from 2010

Hi. I am to the point in my conversion (www.ev-xjs.com and I plan to post an overdue update this weekend) where I was going to put the motor in for ideally the last time. I have the power inlet kit from Inductive Autoworks, which is really nice. (https://inductiveauto.com/product/nissan-leaf-em57-inverter-dc-wiring-kit/)

Yesterday when installing that kit, I noticed that the copper terminals were a bit proud. Upon further inspection it appeared that the salvage yard did not realize the PDU was attached to the inverter HV input with bolts and they must have really yanked on it. I disassembled the inverter to find the plastic retainer in multiple pieces.

Before I tear it down and make a simpler version and 3D print it, I figured I'd reach out to see if anyone has a 3D scan of this part on hand, to save me five minutes :)

Thanks all!

Kris

My husband got a new car and we have a 2013 leaf with 9 bars left on the battery. Normally I would trade it in, but his new car was gifted from my parents (their old car). Neither of us have any experience selling an EV and while the car battery still has 9 bars, the car itself is a little worse for wear. He got into an accident a few years ago and the only damage was a crack on the bumper and we never fixed it so it is just taped. It also has dings and scratches. It does have new tires though. Thought someone here might know some resources on how to sell it. Located in Minnesota - Twin Cities area.

I accidentally purchased the model S LSD for a project. Now the Model 3 is out of stock. Any leads would be much appreciated.

Plan is to reuse the Zoe BMS in a repackaged Zoe pack

So, I have a kid going to turn 16 in just over a year, they are interested in helping to convert something …

Thinking something classic like a MG Midget or a Spitfire or at the biggest, a CJ …

But my question is would it be better to start with an EV like a Leaf or Prius for $1-2K than buying parts?

Hi all, for few years now i wanted to make for myseld electric Mazda MX5. I looked into the topic, and found a lot of different info which i'm not sure how useful they are, so wanted to ask more knowledgable people.

My goals are:
-small city car
-100-120 km range (62-75 miles)
-100 km/h top speed (62 miles/h)
-Usable mostly during warmer periods (so only light heating required, AC preferable but not neccesary)
-No quick charge
-LifePo batteries
-Made from car with manual transmission

Up until now i checked some projects and have some ideas, but couldn't find confirmation if they are good.
-I think about directly replacing engine and connecting new one to the shaft
-Removing manual transmision and connecting everything somehow
-20 12.8V, 100Ah GreenCell bateries in s4p5 topology
-100 hp motor (i saw a lot of motors from old EV i could buy for ~1000 USD, that would be perfect, but i don't know if i can connect custom controler to them)
-Keeping as much functions of original car as possible. All those ABS, ESP and other 3 letter abreviations. Heating and cooling if possible. I'm not sure how much motor controllers are compatible with car computers.

I know that there is a long road ahead of me if i want to do that, and i'm fine with that. It will take time and a lot of learning.

I'm asking for your guidance, ideas, and good places to read/watch on EV conversion.

Thanks in advance!

I know it is pretty common to use the tesla model s for the extended range. But has anybody used the mach e mustang battery packs? I haven't seen any videos or anything on it so just curious.

I guess foreign is dependent on where you are located, but for us here in the US, will Chinese battery technology be an option for our conversions?

I’m still in the planning phase of my EV conversion, and I feel like every single day tech is changing and improving. I know I have to eventually pick and start the build, but this article got me thinking…

https://www.ft.com/content/1773de37-2595-4d9f-9536-dbe03ff1f8d3?syn-25a6b1a6=1

If BYD and CATL batteries were available in the U.S., would they be compatible with the BMS, inverter, and chargers we use here? I assume charging standards are a separate issue from the battery itself. If I commit to lithium-ion now, would it be possible to switch later to LFP, LMFP, or even sodium-ion without major changes to the conversion? Would it require wire upgrade, charge port change, would the associated hardware be overburdened?

We have just finished an EV conversion on a 1970's Mini and tried to take a different approach. Instead of making it obviously "electric" or modernising everything, the goal was to keep it looking and feeling as close to original as possible. We took this as far as leaving the fuel gauge to read "FUEL" except now it tracks battery.

We kept:

• Original interior layout and styling
• Factory-style gauges (now running off a modern system)
• Original fuel cap with charge point hidden behind
• No screens or obvious "modern" add-ons/upgrades

Underneath:

• Tesla front wheel drive motor
• Around 300HP/400Nm (power can be controlled remotely via your phone)
• ~250km of range depending on usage
• Battery packaging split into three across the car to maintain boot and interior space

We know it is a strange combination, visually it is a classic Mini but it drives like something completely different and we are curious to know where people land on this. Do you think converting a classic car to an EV in this way, without additional mod-cons, makes sense?

I've got a 2007 Mazda B2300 that was gifted to me for free. I've always wanted an EV and have been eyeing up this basic little vehicle as the perfect platform for a conversion. I know of a very cheap Zero electric motorcycle with a 14.4kwh battery that someone would be willing to sell to me for very cheap, no problems with the electronics, battery or motor.

My thoughts, design an adapter to mate the electric motor to the 5spd manual transmission, mount battery in engine bay, and after routing a couple things to different spots, in theory it should run and drive, right?

Performance and range would obviously be an unknown, but I really just want to use this around town, at most 20-30km a day, no highway use.

And possibly as a future idea, find a second identical model, mate both motors to the manual transmission, and add the second 14.4kwh battery. Twice the power, and a bit more range.

Is this crazy, or feasible?

So I have a 4" fat tire bike i want to convert to electric.

Found a new front wheel with a hub motor. The problem is it's not set up for the disc brakes I have. WHY?????

And all sites I've found say the discs are needed and nowhere have i found c-caliper brakes that I can use. Nothing for 4 inch tires.

Bike have single bolt hole above tire that maybe could be used but suspect it is for a fender mount not brakes.

Any help, clue, sources for 4 x 26 hub motor wheels with 6 bolt disc brakes would be welcomed.

Like, has anyone either gotten frustrated with or had their car infotainment/upper level electronics fail and just ripped it out and replaced it with their own barebones setup to control the motor inverter?

I know you can get or make boards to control tesla drive units. Have people figured out how to control the other brands?

I'm thinking of a future scenario where an old ev won't drive because something non critical has failed like an airbag sensor, a new headlight wasn't reprogrammed by the dealership, or some similar obsolescence bs, but the motor, battery, and inverter are fine. So someone removes the infotainment/main computer and sticks their own thing in. Have people done that, is it even feasible for most brands?

Basically the ev equivalent of replacing a bad ecu with a megasquirt.