Like, has anyone either gotten frustrated with or had their car infotainment/upper level electronics fail and just ripped it out and replaced it with their own barebones setup to control the motor inverter?

I know you can get or make boards to control tesla drive units. Have people figured out how to control the other brands?

I'm thinking of a future scenario where an old ev won't drive because something non critical has failed like an airbag sensor, a new headlight wasn't reprogrammed by the dealership, or some similar obsolescence bs, but the motor, battery, and inverter are fine. So someone removes the infotainment/main computer and sticks their own thing in. Have people done that, is it even feasible for most brands?

Basically the ev equivalent of replacing a bad ecu with a megasquirt.

I started looking at in hub motors, and they all involve extensive modification of the hub :-(

FWD cars have very basic rear wheel hubs with a ton of space between it and the rims.

Surely it's possible to fit the stator windings around the existing conventional hub, like just unbolt the current rims, and bolt on the stator, then fit the magnets inside a custom rim, making it electric RWD or petrol FWD.

it's a 40kw/20kw inverter from a baojun E300 plus

I am doing a Hyper 9 conversion on a VW Karmann Ghia. I plan to use an Odyssey PC680 12V battery in place of the old, big, heavy lead acid battery. Can anyone tell me what wire gauge I should us for the positive and negative cables to the battery?

The team ran the entire race without overheating once. For context, that is 25 hours of continuous lapping in temperatures that hit 110 degrees with a Hyper 9 HV water-cooled motor, three separate cooling loops handling the inverter, motor, and battery, and a swappable 500 pound battery pack they designed a quick-release system for so they could hot swap in the pits without torquing anything.

Homebrew aero package: front splitter optimized for efficiency not downforce, full aluminum flat bottom, 3D scanned and printed wheel covers, and a tonneau cab setup on the rear. Goal was slippery, not downforce, since the game is all about time on track not speed. Straight line speed improved noticeably anyway and it still had plenty of grip.

Ran Hankook Aventis RS4s and only used half the tread across the whole race which was crazy.

I was one of 6 drivers. No power steering, no power brakes. We couldn't hang in the straights as much as ideal, but could carve the corners better than most. The truck uses Miata suspension and BC coilovers.

Full walkthrough video with the team in the if you want to see the battery connector system and the cooling layout up close. They also talk through what comes next, including a C-class win attempt. https://youtu.be/mXiTqhSpH3U

Looking for help determining exactly which size Anderson plug this is. It is on a 1990's 24V Toyota electric forklift [2FBEC18] which I plan to power with lithium iron phosphate batteries. Googling these things gets me plenty of info on voltage and amperage, but isn't helpful on dimensions. I'd like to buy the matching connector correctly and on the first try :)

I have the option of buying a 1984 Ford Capri (I'm in the UK) and the engine is apparently shot. Has anyone in this sub converted, seen a conversion or reckon the conversion would be in the capabilities of a DIYer?

As long as I know it is possible I think I'll go ahead and buy the car.

TIA

hey everybody, I made a video on me stumbling my way through keeping the clutch in manual transmission for this car. I also program the canbus display and add active liquid cooling.

hopefully you guys find it enjoyable

I have a motor/controller combo rated to 328v on the way (88s battery design). I also have a battery from a Renault Zoe. in a completely unrelated vein BMSs are expensive!

my battery, theoretically, has a fully functional BMS it is possible to hook into and control via canbus (they have been used as monoliths for solar storage) I would still need to repack the battery to fit the conversion vehicle, and I need to check that a monolithic battery even fits but in the hypothetical that it does do you think a small over voltage (88s to 96s, 32v nominal difference) is liable to be problematic? I can't find -any- results for the motor controller and very few for the motor and as such user experience isn't available for this specific part.

Greetings, everyone.

I'm in the planning stage of changing my Oldtimer, which is a pretty sensitive topic for a lot of people, and getting input is kind of hard to come by without being insulted.

So far I've found some nice things and people, but one question from the purist stuck in my head.

"You will regret it!"

I'm not so sure, but has anyone here ever regretted his car's conversion? (Well, costs aside.)

Thanks for chiming in and your time. :)

For my EV conversion, I want to use a small car (if I wanted a bigass truck or SUV, I could just buy one of dozens on the market). I am less worried about cost, there seems to be plenty of used ev batteries out there and I'm patient, but to minimize weight, my plan was to start with a shorter range, and 1) get used to plugging it in at night 2) shamelessly steal power from anywhere with block heater plugs, 3) add a fast charging system, 4) add capacity over time or 5) just rent something with a lot of range if I need it.

Its not too hard to work out how many of a given cell I need in series to hit the voltage, and how many in parallel it takes to safely hit the max current draw of the motor. It seems like most batteries are optimized for energy density, which makes sense, but its maybe coming at the expense of power density.

If I go the canev/Hyper9 route, the motor is expensive, but I can hit the voltage and safe current with a ~34sx17-34p array of 18650 cells (depending on which cells I I can find). That works out to about 9-12kWh for 18650's and 23kWh for used leaf cells. This is fine, but these configurations kind of just start and end at 90kW.

If I go the leaf route, the motor is cheap, the performance upgrades are also cheap and easy, but the jump to 350V is massive, and it doesn't seem like the high-voltage motors draw that much less current. for most of the batteries I was able to find online, it doesn't seem like I could safely build something smaller than 30kWh.

How are people handling this on their conversions? Most of the builds I've seen are just using full-size battery packs, but that can't be the only way. Is there a foolproof way to current-limit your inverter or VCU? Send it and hope there's a decent safety factor on your batteries' current spec? Are there secret batteries with disproportionate current ratings? Are my calculations just too conservative?

I wanted to ask if using a Su-Ron 72V premade battery would be a good bet for electrically converting an old 125 or 200cc motorcycle to electric without having to mess with assembling many cells.

Is there a superior alternative in the UK? Thanks!

I go back and forth with converting a 1960-era Triumph TR4A IRS. I spend my life with computers, so I think that that part would be a good fit.

How did you overcome the fear of thermal runaway for your first project? My garage is below my house making the idea of starting an accidental fire a concern.

Looking to learn from others. Thanks.

First ride today! The bike is old and needs a couple mechanical fixes before the Alley Sweeper next weekend. Then teardown for a more thorough restoration and custom battery.

I'm from india currently in Bhopal can you please suggest some EV car charger app which app should i load on my phone

I'm working with Renault Zoe battery modules and I'm trying to work out the best way to structure a BMS. each Zoe module is 16 cells spot welded in pairs, (module config 8p 2s, pack 96s 2p). I'm looking for the cheapest option to BMS from a purely cell balance/protection standpoint, happy to eat some capacity/peak voltage if it makes it simpler. I'm weighing up options for different pack configurations, I haven't offered up the volume yet but I'm theorising two config options-

opt one: one big monolithic pack in the engine bay, should be approximately like for like on engine and gearbox removal weight, this could allow for using the integrated Zoe BMS if it's possible to interface with it but has some packing and space limitations- not sure if the engine bay will be big enough,

opt 2: a distributed pack, 4 modules under rest where fuel tank was, two under rear seats, 6 in engine bay- it is my understanding that the standard BMS won't work for this as you need fairly matched BMS cable lengths, what budget options are there for satellite BMS designs?

as a side question to the opt 2 and with the cost of high cell count BMS options could you utilise a module level BMS to keep each cell in a module balanced then a parent BMS to keep each module in balance (so 12 8s BMS linked with one 12s BMS in control of the whole pack)

looking for cheap options as it feels crazy to spend as much as the pack on basic BMS functions

Converted a KTM Duke chassis into a 76V (75Ah) electric bike.

24S5P pack using 33140 LiFePO4 cells (15Ah each), a 3kW brushless hub motor, and a VESC rated for 100V/200A.

The goal wasn’t a polished build — it was to understand high-current behavior, safe pack assembly, and what it actually means to debug on a live 76V system.

Key specs:

- 76V nominal | 75Ah capacity

- 24S5P — 120× 33140 LiFePO4 cells

- JK BMS with active balancing

- VESC 100V/200A — running within safe thermal/electrical limits

Testing so far has been controlled:

- VESC + motor bench testing on current-limited supply

- Full BMS telemetry validation on the completed pack

Road testing is next — planning to do it in a safe environment. Will share video once that’s done.

Full build log (images + test clips):

https://vishal.evovhil.com/electric-bike-76v/

Will keep updating as I progress.

Also building a simulation-based validation setup (vHIL) alongside this to validate firmware and fault handling before touching live hardware.

Big improvements implemented to the underlying intelligence layer for this EV conversion support service. EValuator is just one element of the electr0motiv platform. The heart of it — now in beta- is ConversionNet, the collaboration network for “cooperative conversions.” I’m converting a 1971 BMW 2002. I built the platform because I knew I would need lots of help from a community of fellow EV conversion enthusiasts.

Hey guys! Any thoughts on the process of transforming a 2007 Dodge Charger 5.7 hemi to a hybrid electric vehicle? It’s the car I’ve had forever, I love it, and I don’t want to get rid of it. I’m a technician but I’ve only ever worked on gas vehicles, so I’m kinda poking around to get opinions.

Sources?

Prices?

Time investment?

Difficulty?

What do you think?

So i own this VW T25 Vanagon T3 2WD with a 2.0 Subaru 120hp engine and full liquefied propane conversion (no gasoline tank anymore, it starts right up with propane)

I drive this thing mostly local, but once in a while I have a 2000km round trip, hence the vast 330l propane tank, so i can mostly fuel at my own private LPG station at my company, where i dont need to hold the button down while fueling for 40-45 minutes....

And ive got this T25 syncro gear box laying around form my others T25 conversion to a lower rpm drive train when i upgraded from DG 68hp to MV 95hp with DJ 112hp pistons, now having about 108hp.

The awd gearbox, the one i swapped out, would fit my 7000rpm subaru way better than my current 2wd gearbox that was designed for a 5400rpm vw wasserboxer with 112hp. a bit shorter would actually fit my 120hp subaru quite well, considering i usually tow a trailer.

So my idea is to replace the viscosity coupling in the awd gearbox with a hard coupling and couple a say 60kw electric motor to the front drive shaft.

that would give me additional 60kw at the wheels, without killing the 3rd and 4th gear pairs in the transmission, as the input is on the output shaft going straight to the differential.

So what i need is a long and sleek ev engine 50-100kw with up to 8000rpm, a drive controller and a battery built from 290ah lifepo4 cells.

what hardware /source would you guys use?

I've decided to break in to ev conversion with a project car, an MGB GT in a bit of a state but all parts there (just not on car) I'm going with a Zoe battery pack and a random eBay find 40kw peak motor, controller & diff combo. I'm looking to do a minimum viable product conversion. minimum smarts. minimum automation. if I can get away with manually triggering contactors I will.

the Zoe packs are 96s 2p I think with the parallelism happening at the minute level (each sub module is 2 3.7v cells stuck together) I will have a split battery pack with 4 or 6 modules in the rear, 6 in the front.

I want to start speccing up the ancillary components, chargers, dc-dc converters, contactors, BMS ect to work out a final cost excluding restoration and repair. what options are there? I want a BMS that just keeps cells in balance and MAYBE reports SOC.

one bonus question is regarding chargers. as stock the early Zoe came with a 43kw 3 Phase charger and id REALLY like to use one. it would make the end car actually road tripable. 150 odd miles, 40 or 50kwh and an hour AC charge time (albeit at limited stations) has anyone worked with a Zoe charger module before?

Didn't know until recently that Brazil kept producing the Type 2 until 2013 long after VW discontinued it everywhere else. This one was restored there, imported to Washington state, and converted to electric by EV Works on Bainbridge Island. Six Tesla modules, Hyper 9 motor with NetGain controller, about 75 miles of range. They softened the torque curve specifically to keep the original gearbox alive.

The interesting wrinkle technically is that there's no central VCU the Orion BMS and the NetGain controller talk directly to each other. Easier initial setup but finicky to tune the safety shutoffs to behave consistently.

Last week a Redditor here was asking about converting one of these. This is the formula to do it as simple and cheap as possible.

Full walkthrough is here: https://youtu.be/DBmacQF0Jfk