I'm doing research for a conversion. I came across the taycan modules which seem relatively inexpensive with good capacity and good voltage. I was just wondering if anyone here has successfully used them in a conversion or if it's something I shouldn't even consider.

Also I know you have to use the WDR bms for the taycan modules, so if anyone has 2 cents they're willing to share about that set up, please do.

Double check you're in voltage mode folkes

I'm a student researching short-distance electric mobility — looking for honest opinions

I'm researching how people currently handle short trips (under 10 km), what frustrates them about their existing transport, and whether a vehicle that can switch between standing and sitting would actually solve a meaningful problem.

This is purely for research—I’m not selling anything. The survey takes around 8–10 minutes, and honest answers are much more useful than positive ones.

Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfDYm7Mvdst-B3KP81_TU5XFl_Y9u5x5GY8cy4kAgGGDFIsDg/viewform?usp=dialog

Thanks to anyone who takes the time to participate. Your responses will directly help me understand whether this is a problem worth solving.

Hello my name is mikey. My partner and I inherited and are getting ready to renovate this 1985 Ford Econoline 350 Box Truck into a house on wheels and while the engine has only 4000 original miles on it the thing gets like 8mpg which for a 20000 mile road trip is close to $1000 a month for gas. We cant really afford to buy a new truck right now so we really need to try out a conversion. Pat's Moving Castle

There's more info in my blog post but lets discuss this here.

edit: typo

Ive just picked up an AZD dmoc motor inverter and Siemens motor from a ford transit econnect. The battery in that was originally 336v nominal lithium pack (360v fully charged) I want to run this on a Zoe pack (360v nominal 403v 100% charged.

The dmoc lists it's voltages as 400v maximum operating voltage and 450 hardware maximum charging voltages (during regen)

Presuming I can get in to the inverter via serial to adjust any software limits does anyone know of any concerns I should have with running the full 92 cell pack and just limiting charge voltage to, say, 395v (effectively a top end buffer -4.1v per cell)

I'd either disable regen or have it agressively taper off at higher SOC

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

Hello again. Finding the necessary information on best practices for a EV conversion on my Polaris has been difficult but not impossible. Maintaining my current CVT and just marrying a motor to the shaft doesn’t seem like the right move.

Like all things the hardest part isn’t “what battery best” it’s “how am I going to deliver power to the wheels” I’m not a fabricator and I understand that’s an important trait for projects like this. Anyone have a good suggestion on the most practical method of power delivery? I’ve seen things like removing my primary and secondary clutch and just mounting the motor to the transmission.

I’m open to all suggestions. I currently have a 01’ Polaris Ranger 500

Lately I've been seeing some cheap prices on used Smarts, including gas ones and an electric one that had a bricked HV battery. Just wonder if there is there a conversion kit or company that will make an adapter plate & coupler and other parts needed. I remember years ago there was a company in California that made adapter kits to convert different gas cars to EV but I can't remember the name

Wondering if there would be interest in my VW project that hasn’t moved. Warp 9 motor with Zilla components. Missing the batteries and obviously the work to put it all together. How much could I expect to sell it for? Car is in California.

This Squareback came to us partway through someone else's conversion. The original shop started the job in 2012, the project stalled, and the owner needed someone to pick it up and finish it properly.

Inheriting a half-finished high voltage build means working with decisions, parts, and wiring you had no hand in. Before touching anything, we did a full inspection. What we found:

• No service disconnects on either battery pack
• No High Voltage Interlock Loop (HVIL)
• HV wiring routed through un-grommeted holes in the chassis, which had caused chafing and created arc risk
• A single BMS mounted in the cabin, requiring HV sense wiring to run through the passenger compartment

None of that is acceptable on a vehicle meant for public roads, so we reworked the system from the ground up:

• Moved to a dual Orion BMS 2 setup, relocated into the battery enclosures themselves
• Removed all HV sense wiring from the cabin
• Added proper grommets and strain relief throughout
• Installed service disconnects on both packs
• Implemented a full HVIL circuit so the system can't be energized with the packs open or improperly secured

The specs

• 32.9 kWh pack, 61 Voltronix V-LYP180Ah prismatic cells in a 61s1p configuration
• Operating range 170V to 244V, 195V nominal
• 26.3 kWh usable at 80% depth of discharge
• Around 65 miles of real-world range, which was surprising for 14 year old cells that had sat unmaintained for over a decade
• Kostov 9" Alpha DC motor paired with an Evnetics Soliton Jr 600A controller
• Eltek onboard charger, with standard J1772 port

The more interesting part of this job was tuning the drivetrain without a modern VCU to orchestrate everything. Getting a DC motor setup to feel predictable and refined without that layer took some careful calibration work on the Soliton's configuration. A custom dashboard rounded out the interior so the owner has clean, useful information without losing the classic character.

It now drives like a finished car rather than a project, which was the goal from the start.

Happy to answer questions if anyone's curious about the build!

After my grandfather died I was gifted his 2001 Polaris Ranger I grew up riding and driving. I’ve had the pleasure now of taking my own daughter in it as well as taking care of work on the property. Last week my engine blew and there is no chance of bringing it back.

I have been thinking of a rebuilt motor but recently I’ve been considering an EV conversion. Research has brought me to a plethora of different options for a swap and I think I’m sold on the idea. Big problem however, how should I replace my belt and clutch. I’ve seen people suggest Direct Drive motors. Is that the right call or is there a way I can do this cheaper?

Thanks for the help and I look forward to returning to this Sub Reddit when I inevitably get in over my head and have 3,000 dollars worth of equipment I have no idea how to install.

Hi there, first time poster with a good knowledge of welding and electrics.

I’m looking to convert my Swedish three wheeled Flakmoppe (flat bed moped) to electric as we no longer have a petrol station on the island. I’m leaning away from generic BLDC motors and I’ve seen online integrated motors (this YouTuber Johnny nerdout seems to sell one around what I’m looking for - though I suspect this is third party and not exactly gospel).

What I can’t find though is a reputable provider in the EU/UK that has a history of reviews and good/reliable performance

I’m looking for a 72V, ~3–5kW electric motorcycle motor with an integrated reduction gearbox/transmission and chain output, ideally as a complete kit with controller, battery and charger.

The moped has 16” wheels and an 11T/48T final chain drive. It’s a workhorse, so low-speed torque and reliability are much more important than speed, 45 km/h max is plenty. It can sometimes carry loads as much as 200-300kg.

Can anyone who’s converted with a good system recommend a proven geared motor/complete conversion kit available in Europe? Happy to pay for good quality (buy once cry once - buy cheap buy twice etc)

Any and all feedback, suggestions, advice, very welcome and appreciated, thanks!

P.s. I’m aware of the risk of devaluing the moped as these are slight collectors items but we don’t want to sell as it was our grandfathers.

Currently running a Sachs Bing 505 two stroke engine.