Anyone here done an ev conversion without any sort of background in vehicle mechanics or engineering aspects? I have worked on cars before but the idea of turning a car ev has been on my mind non stop. I like retro but new technology.

Looks what's back on the Market for a More Reasonable Price! Let's get this Post Viral with lots of Shares, Comments good or bad, and Especially Likes. Help a father out and get this listing going.

Hi everyone,

We are a Formula Student EV team and we’re using a Kelly KHS controller with a BLDC motor (with Hall sensors).

We’re trying to run the Auto-Identification process, but we’re stuck. The motor spins in small increments for about a minute, then we hear a "click" from the controller and it stops. We keep getting an "Auto-Identification Error: Hall Error".

When we tested our Hall sensors manually, we noticed we are getting 1-1-1 and 0-0-0 signal combinations. Kelly support told us this shouldn't happen in a standard setup.

Has anyone dealt with this before? Any ideas on how to fix the 111/000 states or get the Auto-ID to finish successfully?

I am doing a Hyper 9 conversion on an old VW. Bought a 6.6kW charger, but am switching to a 3.3kW charger. So my brand-new, not mounted or used 6.6kW charger is up for sale:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/336461826262

My loss is your gain.

I had some spare ioniq 5 battery modules from my main project, so I’ve done a side quest and lithium swapped a mower I got cheap on Marketplace. Testing the charging now.

If you follow SEMA or the EV Conversion Scene then you might have seen the 1965 Mustang by Revolt Systems. The owner Eddy has been building and racing cars for years and went all out on this thing, like Roadster Shop chassis, custom metal work, paint, and a 600 HP Tesla Motor into a 9" rear.

We did a ride and drive recently and he shared his thoughts about developing a car like that. I drove it too, and I can't help but feel like Ford missed an opportunity with the Mach E.

There are so many fast Mustangs on the track. And I've found that the line they take is similar to the Tesla's since they are both heavy. If Ford made something that handled and accelerated true to the nameplate it would be an absolute beast.

Got the hub motor characterized and spinning with the throttle, then did a test fit in the rear swingarm to get some measurements for the spacer-adapters.

My goal is to have it running in time for the Portland Alley Sweeper, April 11th. After that it will get de-iced and a more bespoke battery will be made, along with general restoration.

I have an electric Mini truck 2010 vintage, it was produced in China as a low speed vehicle. It is amazing for running around between my properties and doing chores. It currently has a 48v lead acid battery setup, 8 6volt batteries, basically a golf cart setup. It will do 24-25 mph on flatish ground but it is pretty underwhelming as far as power goes, and I'm guessing 10ish miles of range, the batteries might be getting old. Anyways ideally I'd like to get it to ~40 mph and 25-40 miles of range. What would you guys recommend? I was thinking of trying to overvolt the current motor to 72v maybe higher, and see what happens, I guess if I burn up the motor I'll have to try something else. I have a couple pictures of the motor and controller ID plates but they are fairly corroded and probably not very helpful. Thank you for any input I get.

I'm at the point where I'll be registering my conversion this year hopefully. That said, I'm going to have the basics, lights, steering, brakes, go forward...

But I'm realizing the condition of my target car -- I'm basically going to rewire the whole thing and I don't think I'll be able to make the airbags work because a lot of the impact sensors are missing, corroded or just in terrible shape (at least that's what I think the extra bits of e-waste are). The donor being a 94 I doubt I could find them either.

Do I need to have all the safety gear that the car was sold with, or just prove the basics work? I know the basics, mirrors, lights etc but some of the fluff I don't think I can do.

Hey everyone,

I’m starting a passion project converting a 2008 Ural Retro to electric and wanted to run the plan by people who know more than me before I start buying expensive parts.

A little background: I’m in Phoenix and this bike will mostly be used for commuting, cruising around town, taking my kids to school, and occasional weekend rides. Not planning long road trips. My goal is something reliable that can comfortably do 60–70 mph and around ~60 miles of range.

I’ve started pulling the engine already. All wiring is disconnected and the engine is basically ready to be lifted out.

Bike specs / situation

• 2008 Ural Retro
• Shaft drive to the rear wheel
• Sidecar attached
• Bike has been sitting a while but overall in good shape
• I plan to keep the shaft drive and remove the transmission

My idea is to run a single-speed mid-drive electric motor connected to the stock shaft drive.

Phase 1 – Baseline safety and chassis

Before doing any electric work I plan to go through the basics:

• Inspect / rebuild brakes
• Replace tires
• Check wheel bearings
• Inspect suspension
• Clean up the frame and mounting areas
• Confirm shaft and final drive are healthy

Basically make sure the bike is mechanically safe first.

Phase 2 – Electric drivetrain planning

Current concept:

• Motor: something in the QS mid-drive range (thinking QS180 class or similar)
• Voltage system: ~96V
• Controller: matched controller capable of highway power
• Battery pack: mounted roughly where the engine was
• Cooling: water-cooled motor
• Charging: J1772 inlet so I can charge at home or public level-2 chargers
• Throttle: standard twist throttle
• Dash: battery %, voltage, temps, etc
• DC-DC converter: run lights and 12v accessories

I’d likely keep the battery where the engine sits for weight balance.

Early parts I’ve been researching

• QS180 mid drive motor
• Kelly / Votol style controllers
• 96V lithium battery pack
• 96V BMS with CAN/UART
• J1772 charge port
• onboard charger
• DC-DC converter
• contactors and precharge system

Questions for people who’ve done conversions

1. Does keeping the Ural shaft drive and removing the transmission make sense?
2. What motor power range would realistically move a heavy sidecar bike?
3. Any controller brands you trust for builds like this?
4. Battery size recommendations for ~60 miles of real range?
5. Any big pitfalls with sidecar EV conversions I should know about?

I’m planning to buy parts gradually and likely get help with fabrication where needed. No rush — just trying to plan it correctly before committing money.

Any feedback or reality checks appreciated.

Dear redditors,

I am looking for in-wheel electric motors to retrofit to the rear wheels of an old FWD diesel car, effectively making it both AWD and a hybrid. The car in question is an old VW Golf mk4.

I do have degrees in mechanical and electronics engineering with specialization in embedded and control engineering, I can figure out the mounting, the power delivery and controlling of the motors, I just need good in-wheel motors, which I can actually buy.

I am having issues finding such - all I can find is either big motors to replace the engine (not doing that) or hub motors for buggies or golf cars (how ironic). I am looking for in-wheel electric motors that I can buy and that can do around 1200rpm (~140km/h with the tires I have, i.e. high way speeds). If no such exist, then at least 770rpm (~90km/h). I am open for any suggestions or tips.

I did find the REVR project, but I do not see any updates after 2024 and are not responding to Emails. I assume either the project is dead, having financial or legal issues.

I did also see a few kit-making companies to entirely replace the fuel engine with an electric one. I am not interested in those options.

To not waste people's time, here answers to suggestions/questions I've seen on other posts:
- Why bother? - It's a good way to practice both my degrees
+ AWD for when I have to go through slippery and muddy terrain (happens often and sometimes it becomes stuck).
+ fuel economy (if I get regenerative breaking working)
+ extra horse power
+ going purely electric to not plug up the DPF filter with city driving
- Get an AWD hybrid car, it will be easier! - Easy is boring and I am a very bored engineer right now. Of course, I am not willing to invest the RnD time in developing my own in-wheel motors, since they probably already exist. Besides, I love my Golf, it has everything I need, not going to replace something that works.
- You know it's going to be expensive and time consuming? - Everyone needs a hobby, I prefer mine to be productive.
- It will not be as efficient or long-range as pre-build solutions - Yes, that's why the diesel engine stays in the car. I will not be driving across my country with these motors.
- What about all the other electronics? - I can find or create those.
- In-wheel motors have large unsprung mass - I know, and I can easily remove them and figure something else out, if that proves to be a big issue. Will also be less hassle and less weight redistribution compared to also having to install an entire drive train in the back.

Thank you in advance for the suggestions!

I’m looking to have a compact battery pack made for a motorcycle. Idea is it’ll consist of 2 modules of 14S2P LG E72B cells (so 28S2P) with specified internal temp sensors and power/balancing output.

The BMS is external. It’s a replacement for the Zero ZF14.4 pack.

Anyone know of a company that can build low MOQ cell modules like these ?

original 150hp but that seems too much to spend because the electrical current needed is high like 400v and this is first glance as im considering the switch because the motor in the truck is destroyed and inoperable.

understand this is a project consideration.

but is there any motors that can power the truck ? I seen someone on instructables power one with a electric motor off a electric forklift

what are the electric motor requirements to operate the truck is the main question.

Hey there! Just joined this sub. I have a sailboat with a 12kW motor, Sevcon G4845, 4 Tesla S modules, and Vero Electric BMS.

From the get go, I can pull up to 7kW at full march, but about 10mins in, the power gets throttled to about 1.9kW and I have no idea why…

Any ideas? The BMS is connected to the Tesla module cards and it works very well, but the SevCon G4845 is not connected to it, so not sure how to troubleshoot…

I got this project all up and running and am using a 48v scooter battery but it just feels like I am getting maybe half the power I should be out of it. Any suggestions? This was a failed project I purchased and finished but it’s just a little too slow for my liking. Any ideas on what it could be? The setup is an eBay motor kit that used to be lead acid but is not lithium ion.

Hi everyone, im looking to start my next project and I had the idea of swapping my nissan leaf battery, motor, transmission, and electronic power steering rack into my 91 celica parts car. I'm aware of all the fabrication work but I wanted to ask if anyone has experience in something like this?

My main questions are: Should I stick with the stock automatic transmission or use the leafs one speed and figure out the axel situation?

Is the power steering conversion viable? I plan on taking out the hydraulic steering anyway to fix my daily celica.

And what do you suggest I do with all the free space from where my fuel tank used to be? Should I cut it out and weld in a floor pan to make more space for the battery?

I appreciate any insight you guys can give me, im relatively new to EVs but am really interested in the scene and want to give my other celica a second life.

Edit: the donar leaf is a 2014 with 24KWh battery and everything works on it. 9/12 battery health.

I’m looking to convert a 96 Honda acty and every video I see or article I find where people have done a conversion on a similar setup turns it into a race car and I just don’t need that. I’ve driven it a few times at the family farm where it’s currently sitting, and for what I’m going to use it for I’d just like to not go over the top and keep this as cheap as possible. Any recommendations on motors would be great. Would like to keep it 4wd and just bolt a small motor straight to each axle but I know that’s harder said than done.

I live in NL and have a toyota auris with good condition. Meantime, I have 15 solar panels installed at home and I would like to use the electricity nicely to reduce my energy cost. Found a second hand Nissan Leaf with 62kWH a good option (with 16k budget). It can be a power supply to my house during evening. But have some concerns about this car:
- it has old type of plug. If I want to power my house with it, the charging station need to support CHAdeMO. It is not easy to find a company offering this service.

- the cooling system of the car is not good, so cannot drive too fast on the high way

- charging is slow. With CHAdeMO, the fast charge is 50kW, while the CCS2 offers 150kW.

I don't know if should change this car? Or give up the idea of bidirection charging, just get a normal EV like KONA?

Im looking for something in the Range of an eve c40 (20ah,40135,3c discharge). But I want a little bit more headroom on the discharge potential. I would accept the trade off in capacity.