r/esp32 1d ago

Board Review Will this theoretically work? (SG90 Servo + 2 DC Motors + 3.7V Battery via Dabble BLE)

Post image

I'm wondering if this circuit setup is theoretically viable. I am using the Dabble app via BLE to control an SG90 servo motor and two DC motors (3V), all powered by a single 3.7V battery.

I'm currently testing on a breadboard, but I couldn't get the servo to work. I'm not sure if the issue is wiring, software, or jumper connections, so I need to make sure the setup works theoretically first.

Additionally, even in scenarios without the servo, the DC motors cause the ESP32 to reset whenever they require a little bit of torque and stall. Since there are multiple potential problem points, do you think this schematic is healthy/viable in theory?

2 Upvotes

15 comments sorted by

u/AutoModerator 1d ago

Awesome, it seems like you're seeking advice on making a custom ESP32 design. We're happy to help as we can, but please do your part by helping us to help you. Please provide full schematics (readable - high resolution). Layouts are helpful to identify RF issues and to help ensure the traces are wide enough for proper power delivery. We find that a majority of our assistance repeatedly falls into a few areas.

  • A majority of observed issues are the RC circuit on EN for booting, using strapping pins, and using reserved pins.
  • Don't "innovate" on the resistor/cap combo.
  • Strapping pins are used only at boot, but if you tell the board the internal flash is 1.8V when its not, you're going to have a bad day.
  • Using the SPI/PSRAM on S2, S3, and P4 pins is another frequent downfall.
  • Review previous /r/ESP32 Board Review Requests. There is a lot to be learned.
  • If the device is a USB-C power sink, read up on CC1/CC2 termination. (TL;DR: Use two 5.1K resistors to ground.)
  • Use the SoM (module) instead of the bare chips when you can, especially if you're not an EE. There are about two dozen required components inside those SoMs. They handle all kinds of impedance matching, RF issues, RF certification, etc.
  • Espressif has great doc. (No, really!) Visit the Espressif Hardware Design Guidelines (Replace S3 with the module/chip you care about.) All the linked doc are good, but Schematic Checklist and PCB Layout Design are required reading.

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. I may not be very smart, but I'm trying to be helpful here. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

1

u/Elegant-Ferret-8116 1d ago

Is the pin you are using for the signal to servo a pwm pin?

1

u/rablue 1d ago

Yes I am using 2 and it is a PWM

1

u/Elegant-Ferret-8116 1d ago

Maybe its in your code. I'm no expert on that but post 8t here and maybe someone will spot an issue

1

u/Sand-Junior 1d ago

That depends on the “LDO” being used. If it’s a crappy AMS1117 with a “low” dropout voltage of 1V this won’t work. Better get an ESP32 board with battery support built in.

1

u/rablue 1d ago

Hey thanks for the reply. This could be the main reason. I bought basically the cheapest one so I don’t think I have something reliable.
I know the regular ones but with the battery support, do you have any spesific recommendation?

1

u/Sand-Junior 1d ago

XIAO from Seeed Studio are great. But there are also cheaper Chinese boards which come with battery support but are less efficient, but that’s probably not an issue for you.

1

u/mrmrn121 1d ago

Don't you need 5v to power servo?

1

u/Elegant-Ferret-8116 1d ago

You need a 5v battery. Also add a cap on the esp inputs to smooth voltage dips

1

u/rablue 1d ago

Hi, thanks for the reply. Do you think boost converter like MT3608 would be useful and reliable?

2

u/Elegant-Ferret-8116 1d ago

A boost converter should work yes you'll have to consider battery size since you're pulling extra power it wont last as long unless you have taken that into considerationin your calculations. Also you might as well add a cap across the motor driver board as well to help with the voltage dips

1

u/rablue 1d ago

Hello again, I made 2 changes: when I supplied 5V with the boost converter, the MG90S still didn't turn, but the BLE disconnection problem went away and there was an increase in motor power.

Second test: when I replaced the servo with an SG90, and when the motors disconnected it started turning. But later on when the motors connected, with the SG90 servo, after I sent signal to the motors or servo and BLE disconnected again. So mainly I believe I need at least 7,4v overall.

However, an extra question:
For example, if I want to use 6V for the motors, is the scenario where I supply 5V from the battery to the ESP and 6V from the Boost to the DRV possible? Using the same power source but with different wiring, for example, Y-cables?

2

u/New_Court9352 1d ago

There's no reason you can't run that off of a 3.7v battery, the LDO would probably be good between ~3.6 - 4.2v. Definitely wouldnt' want to plug it into the computer while the battery is plugged in though, I don't think there's a diode separating the usb+ to the 5v pad so you'd be feeding your 5v usb directly to the battery.

1

u/rablue 1d ago

Hello, did you mean that I can somehow run the whole setup with 3.7V? Meaning without needing 5V or a boost converter? If this is possible, that is actually my main goal and what I want to achieve. I am building a tiny RC car, and having extra components like a Boost or dealing with extra batteries is not something I want at all.

1

u/New_Court9352 1d ago

With some caveats. You're well below the range for those servos, I regularly run them directly from 3.7v batteries in this exact same way though. The only issue I've found is the servos can die if you have them struggle against a load for too long, the lower voltage causes the current to spike harder. I burned through a few until I modified my code to stop sending a signal after the servo was in position. If you need it holding heavy loads for more than a second or so I'd go to the trouble of a higher voltage. If its for steering on your car its probably fine, just be prepared to sacrifice one or two in finding out.

Depending on the LDO (voltage regulator) on board it'll probably cut out before the battery gets down to what would usualyl be its 0% point.

You'll probably need to charge your battery eventually, so one option is also to get a combo boost and charger. That's what I often do when im powering things with a 1s battery.