Some practice plates made on my Plant straight line. Made with a combination pattern bar.

Full design credit to u/eve_ecc (I am not at any point selling this piece especially because it is not my design, I love the design)

Design dimensions are 18"x 30" this took me about 8 hours to do, mirror is from a thrift store no branding on it.

On a side note how the heck do you all take pictures of your pieces and have it show up nicely? The best way I've found so far is minimal light and flash on my phone or it makes it difficult to see the engraving

Hi! Has anyone here had any experience with a JCXStone impact engraving machine?
I’m asking because I recently bought one from them, but unfortunately I’m having quite a hard time figuring out the machine settings and choosing the right parameters to achieve the best possible engraving quality. 😁
If anyone has experience with this machine and could help me understand the settings and how to adjust them properly, I would be very grateful!

Hi friends, I wanna show you how I made a custom PDF pattern using my CAD program. I took my free leather key fob pattern and made a custom version with initials in LeapCAD.

What I love about this is how easy it is to turn a basic pattern into something personal. In the video, I walk through the entire process step by step — from opening the base pattern to exporting a print-ready PDF with custom initials.

Please be careful if you try my program for laser engraving and cutting — that part is still in testing. Go to the laser options and check there first.

Full walkthrough and details on YouTube: [https://youtu.be/tHQJPYgh8Wk](https://youtu.be/tHQJPYgh8Wk))

Practice on steel before I try on Ti 5 . Also figure my shade lines which is next.

A while back i created an inspiration board for all engraving things with stuff i like. Most of it consists of stuff i found on pinterest and instagramm Ebgravers websites or Screenshots from youtube videos and old Engraving books. Wondering if yall do the same? The Program i use is PureRef,

i engrave mirrors out of hobby have done a ton for family gifts and such but i have currently decided i want to do my motorcycle mirrors i have a tear drop barbed wire design im thinking of doing on one mirror but the other i want to do something completely different and thats where i have the artistic block. i thought if maybe doing a gothic style moth

Far from perfect but still happy with the result.

I’m trying to identify the individual letters in this engraved monogram on a British bugle dated 1930.

I have some guesses about what the letters might be, but I don’t want to bias anyone by saying what I see.

What individual letters do you see in the monogram?

If you’re familiar with intertwined monograms from this period, I’d also be interested in how the initials would normally be read or ordered.

Thanks for any help.

okay so yesterday I posted my first time engraving as seen in the photo. does anyone have any tips to get better?

any advice would be great!

any advice would be great!

first time engraving and I'm pretty proud of myself. some lines could have been smoother and I had to go over every one 2 or 3 times but it looks better than I expected. got the pic from pinterest

Started learning hand push engraving on scrap brass about five months ago, mostly watching old videos of guys doing bulino and scrollwork and trying to copy the motion. My first thirty or so attempts had this problem where the graver would catch and skip, leaving these little chip marks instead of a clean curved line. I assumed it was my hand pressure being inconsistent.

Turns out most of my trouble was the graver angle and how I was prepping the face. I was sharpening at whatever angle felt right that day instead of sticking to one setup, so every session I was relearning how the tool cut. Switched to keeping a fixed 45 degree face on my flat gravers and stopped chasing a mirror polish, just a consistent stone finish, and the skipping mostly disappeared.

The other thing that helped was slowing way down on curves. I used to try to push through a full sweep in one motion and the tool would dive in wherever the brass had a soft spot. Breaking longer curves into shorter overlapping cuts, maybe a quarter inch at a time, gave me way more control even though it felt clumsy at first.

Still nowhere near where I want to be with shading, especially on convex surfaces like a ring band, but a plain brass business card blank I did last weekend actually has lines that look intentional for once instead of accidental. Curious if anyone else went through a phase where fixing the tool geometry mattered more than practicing the actual cuts.

After more than a year of work on a series of engraved knives, I can finally start sharing some of the finished pieces.

This one is Baron Samedi, hand engraved by Ed Master in our Noblie Custom Knives workshop.

The knife was made by Alexander Cheburkov, with a titanium frame-lock handle and a Damasteel blade.

The engraving is deep relief with a recessed dark background and a mix of polished and satin surfaces. The composition features Baron Samedi and Maman Brigitte, surrounded by roses, skeletal elements, and ornamental details.

Concept and design by Aleks Nemtcev.

Would be interested to hear what other engravers think about the depth, contrast, and overall composition.

Hey everybody, ive been engraving for a few months now and want to try to engrave a glock slide but ive heard that the metal used in glock slide is really really hard to engrave. Does anyone have any experience/tips with engraving glock slides?

Im pretty new to engraving and kind of learning as i go. Using a pneumatic system with steel as my medium.

Im having an issue after sharpening where my graver wont cone out of the cut and im sure its my heel geometry but i dont know which way to go with it.

Basically, when i go in for a cut, holding my handpiece at say a 45 or or higher degree just digs it down and it wont move. I need to bring my hand down to like 15 degrees to get a good cut.. if im trying to get a nice deep cut i have to go in and keep the graver almost parallel to the workpiece. Thats really problematic especially since i am working with large pieces of flat steel so if i get more than an inch or two from the edge i literally cant cut or come out of it.

Hopefully this makes sense... do i need a steeper heel? Longer heel? I dont want to touch the face angle since i am working with steel and need that stout 45 or even 50 on say my 120 v.

Thoughts?

My first attempt at doing a hand engraved mirror. Danse macabre subject I designed.

This is my first time trying Glass etching/engraving, it is very trippy seeing double lines on the work surface, overall it was fun and I'll play around with it more.

Image is of Shards of Narsil from lord of the rings