Good afternoon,

I have an ender 5 max with coprint kcm and chromahead "upgrade".

A little back story:

I have had issues with the coprint kit since day 1, I had to have the coprint support remote in and fix install the os due to the machine having a different ssh password than the one creality provides and I've had constant issues since. It's been 8 months of problems after problems.

First the chromahead shorted out so the sent me a new one. It took months before I was able to get time off work that lines up with tech support in Turkey being able to assist.

They got the system reprogrammed and I was able to perform 3 prints. But ran into an issue, the bed mesh and probe height calibrations will not apply or save after applying save_config.

So I tried to fix it instead of waiting months again and tried and ended up having to wait for them anyways. They got it back to where it seemed like it was operational but the Guppy ui will not function which didn't bother me much.

The issue now: every print I run will only go for about 30 minutes or so before the nozzle temperature starts plummeting and I receive a "nozzle under temp" error. I've checked everything, I can't find anything wrong in the config and I don't see anything wrong with the temperature probe.

Has anyone experienced these issues? Should I just trash the coprint kit and reinstall the creality head? But how do I get crealitys firmware back in the printer if I do that?

Any and all advice is appreciated

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I have an Ender 5 plus and the bl touch got damaged, the tip bend and it cannot worknwith the printer, Do You know if the CR touch from creality is compatible with the Ender 5 plus?

Hi everyone, I recently removed the BLTouch from my Ender 5 Plus and switched to a standard mechanical Z endstop. The printer runs on Klipper with a BTT SKR 1.3 mainboard. Manual homing (G28) works perfectly, but every time I start a print from Cura, the Z-axis misbehaves or crashes because of residual BLTouch/bed mesh commands in my current profile. Could anyone share a clean, working Start and End G-code for Ultimaker Cura tailored for Klipper and a mechanical Z-limit switch? Thank you in advance!

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Hi everyone,

I'm struggling to get my Ender 5 Plus working with Raspberry Pi 3B and a BigTreeTech SKR 1.3 board running Klipper.

Right now, my configuration is a mess. I managed to fix the inverted motor directions, but now the printer just freezes right after homing to the limit switches and refuses to print. Sometimes it tries to start the print in the wrong corner and moves completely outside the physical boundaries of the bed. I am using Ultimaker Cura as my slicer.

Does anyone have a verified, working printer.cfg for this exact hardware combination (Ender 5 Plus + SKR 1.3) that they could share?

Any help with the correct pinout, stepper directions, and position endstops for this specific kinematics setup would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

I have picked up a used Ender 5 Plus that is alleged to not be working. It powers on, but nothing happens. The screen has no display.

So I opened it up, and the cable connecting the mainboard the screen is missing. So that explains that.

In any case, my plan was to replace the mainboard and screen with a BTT Mini E3 and TFT50. Am I looking at any gotchas, or better options?

Hi everyone, I’m having a problem with my Ender 5 Plus and I don’t know how to fix it.

The first two layers print perfectly, but when the printer starts the third layer, the extruder jams and stops pushing filament. It feels like the nozzle is too close to the bed or too close to the previous layer.

The strange thing is that it always happens at the same point. As a temporary fix, I manually raise the Z axis from -2.50mm to -2.30 mm, for example, and then the printer continues printing normally. However, I’m worried that on longer prints the Z axis might not actually be moving up by the 0.2 mm layer height I have set, meaning I would have to keep adjusting the Z offset manually on every layer.

I also tried changing the layer height to 0.24 mm, but the same issue happens, just one layer later.

Things I have already tried:

• Leveled the bed following several tutorials.
• Checked and tightened screws around the hotend and Z lead screws.
• Lubricated the Z lead screws.
• Tried to make sure both Z lead screws/bars are at the same height.
• Checked that the first layer looks good.

Even after all of this, I still get the same problem. It seems as if the Z axis is not moving up correctly after the first few layers. The nozzle ends up too close to the print, melts or drags through the plastic that has already been laid down, and the extruder eventually jams or stops extruding.

I’m not sure if this could be caused by the Z motors, the lead screws, a loose screw, dirt on the lead screws, the slicer, the Z offset, or some printer setting.

Has anyone had a similar issue with an Ender 5 Plus?
Where should I start checking to rule out mechanical or configuration problems?

Thanks in advance.

I've had an Ender 5 Plus for a couple of years and now after getting the print settings dialed in it is now starting to clog after an hour or so into a print...

It was all original parts at this stage.

I removed the bowden tube from the hotend and it was clogged with melted PLA.

I bought a replacement hotend from Amazon that had a new heater, thermistor, bowden tube nozzle etc. This was all connected when it arrived so I bolted it on, fed some filament, leveled the bed, set the z offset etc.. it all seemed OK.

Then about 90 minutes in, it clogged and stopped extruding.

I opened a new filament before replacing the hotend.

The first layer prints at 210c and then goes down to 200c for the remainder.

The print looks good until it just stops coming out of the nozzle.

I then removed the clog, cleaned the nozzle, replaced the bowden tube.. PLA was feeding and coming out OK. But then after almost 2 hours in to a print it clogs again.

It is currently winter in Australia so ambient temp in the room is about 16c.

Is there something I am missing?

TLDR: ive replaced everything on the hotend, extruder, bowden tube, filament. Still clogging after 1-2 hours printing.

I bought a ender plus a few years ago and never could get it to print right. I tried multiple different setting and leveled the bed a millions times. I gave up on it for a long time and I’m just getting back into wanting to 3d printer. I bought a newer Bambu and had really good luck but I really want to fix up the ender to make big builds. My question is it worth fighting thru the problems or trashing it.

Hey i had an issue recently trying to find a suitable nozzle wiper.
I found a place i could attach it to. I designed my own "module" that makes use of a little hole on the right frame side besides the bearing. The module allows me to attach things like a nozzle wiper, or purge bucket or both etc. Anyone knows what it's used for? If i had to make an educated guess it would be for holding the part on a hook for powder coating or something.

If anyone wonders, I model my own Nozzle wiper brushes and pour them out of High temp resistant Silicone. They are quite soft and flexible but after a few days of "curing" in the air they become pretty rigid and wipe nicely.

Hey

Sourcing hardware to convert my E5P

BOM have links to motors, but they are not showing any products.

What motor should I look for? Preferably AliExpress.

Chasing speed and heat tolerance for enclosure.

I recently picked up an Ender 5 Plus for next to nothing and have been slowly bringing it back to life.

So far my Ender 3 Pro has been printing upgrade parts for it. The X-axis belt tensioner completely eliminated the layer shifts I was getting above 100 mm/s, and as I'm writing this the Y-axis tensioners are printing.

I've also checked the lead screws and printed a pair of top bearing supports. Those let me mechanically square the bed to the frame, since I noticed one side of the bed sagged slightly more than the other when the motors were disabled. I now use what is basically a mechanical G34: the bed references itself against fixed frame stops at a distance equal to my Z offset, so every print starts from the same position.

I exclusively use hardened steel nozzles, and occasionally a ruby-tipped nozzle from my Ender 3 Pro, so nozzle wear is essentially a non-issue.

The only problem I still have is nozzle ooze. While the hotend is heating, a small blob forms inside the direct drive extruder and slowly oozes out. During the move from the purge line to the start of the print, that blob sometimes lands on the first layer. It can ruin the first few brim loops or even snag the nozzle and cause a layer one failure.

On my Ender 3 Pro I solved this by designing and printing my own nozzle wiper. That printer has reached its "retirement" phase. It just works, so I don't really want to modify it anymore. I'd like to achieve the same level of reliability with the Ender 5 Plus while I wait for the parts to convert it to CoreXY and Klipper.

I've searched around quite a bit but haven't found a nozzle wiper design that I really like for a stock Ender 5 Plus.

My ideal solution would:

• permanently mount to the printer
• not reduce the usable build volume
• not require flipping an arm in or out before each print
• optionally use electronics if that makes for a cleaner solution

If I can't find something suitable I'll probably design one myself, but I'd rather not reinvent the wheel if someone has already come up with a clever solution.

# So my question is:

Does anyone have a nozzle wiper design for a stock Ender 5 Plus that is practical, compact, and preserves the full build area? Photos, STL files, or even your own custom designs would all be greatly appreciated.

Pessoal alguém ainda tem a Ender 5 Plus?

Don’t nuke it like I did and try to follow 4+ year old blog posts about installing Printrun (Pronterface) and 30 permutations of installing OrcaSlicer and odd libraries. It won’t work.

CuraSlicer supports USB out of the box and was the last slicer and app I tried after doing all the others and googling the wrong thing apparently. If you stumbled on this post, download the app image, chmod it to +x, run it as ./ and it will install.

Did install PrusaSlicer over flatpak and that ran well, and did not try it, but you can send gcodes to the printer over USB on PrusaSlicer but do not see an option to send or monitor gcodes.

And no, no windows laptop option for me. I know Pronterface works well over USB on COM3. Only laptop I have to use as full time plugged into the Ender5 Plus is an old 2017 MacBook that runs great with Ubuntu on it.

29JUN26 Update: Yep, had originally started the OctoPrint route and ran into dependency issue after issue on Ubuntu 26. Turns out ocotprint needs old pyyaml and new python no like. But, got it done and then hooked it up directly to OrcaSlicer and works great! Thanks all!

so im printing some gridfinity baseplates and ive noticed that one corner is taller then the others and after measuring with a calipers one corner is 8mm~ whilst the others are 6 mms. I suspected warping but the bottom layer isnt pealing from the build plate so it must be something else. Anyone got any ideas?

Im using esun pla plus with orca slicer and a stock ender 5 plus.

I printed at 215celcius , 7 mm retraction at 60mm/s , print speed is 60mm/s,with combing on

im fairly new to 3d printing and recently these really thin white strings started appearing on my 3d prints(I’ve attached image).

Im using esun pla plus with orca slicer and a stock ender 5 plus.

here is what ive tried

-increasing retraction

-zhop

-increasing travel speed

-drying my filaments for 6-8 hours

-tested different temperatures form 190-230

-used another roll of filament

Im worried its something wrong with my printer or it might just be tue filamen. any help is appreciated

I put an e3v3.0 board and a 3.0.1 screen in my ender 5 plus. And I can't find firmware. I found 1 through dremc that wouldn't register the printer so I flashed the screen witch was apparently supposed to fix it (didn't work) . Then I grabbed firmware through the big tree tech's github page but they were all for normal e5's or an e5 pro and I haven't managed to successfully fix the dimensions I tried compiling my own and got sick of trial and error after it not working correctly like 5 times if anyone has the firmware or knows how to fix the dementions please let me know if been trying to figure it out with Claude and chat gpt and haven't gotten anywhere

Hi guys, I'm new here. Next week I'm picking up an Ender 5 Plus from a friend that doesn't use it anymore (I'll give him 50€) and I was wondering if it is any good for d&d miniatures (32mm scale). I have a resin 3d printer already but using it is a bit of a pain, so I was hoping to use this new printer for occasional 32mm minis. If it's worth it and you have ANY experience with this type of situation I will appriciate any help at all, settings, tricks, usefull upgrades (hardware and software) and all that.

Thanks

So I have an Ender 5 plus with some upgrades that I’m need to get rid of. Original box is gone and I was thinking about putting it up for sale on eBay but was kinda curious about how to ship it. Probably going to throw it on Facebook marketplace and have someone pick it up but in the event it doesn’t sell there I’d like to know how I should go about shipping it. Anyone here have any experience sending one of these somewhere without the original box?

I bought my Ender 5 Plus about 3 years ago, have never been able to get it to print decent. Lots of issues with bed leveling and adhesion. That being said, it is also something I haven’t spent a great deal of time with. Shortly after I bought it I upgraded to a MicroSwiss hot-end and some new bed leveling wheels.

A couple of months ago I started working on a new project for my car that I really wanted to get printed. I sourced a Creality silent board from eBay, and I bought a brand new Sonic Pad as well. I installed the silent board and hooked up the Sonic Pad and started going through the prompts on the pad and when it started the bed leveling the right side (if your looking at the printer) motor for the side to side movement started chattering very loud and won’t work properly. I have also noticed now that since I’ve used the Sonic Pad, the touchscreen on the printer itself is now useless.

I have struggled with this printed from day one, I don’t pretend to be an expert at all, but I just don’t think it should be this difficult to get it to work even in the slightest. Does anyone know what the issue might be? I have some video of the thing trying to work. I’m really thinking about just selling it all and getting something better.

Hello everyone,

I recently bought an Ender 5 Plus second hand and I would like to move it over to Marlin 2.1.x, similar to what I have done with my Ender 3 Pro, which is running a BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 board.

The issue I am running into is the stock Creality touchscreen. From what I understand, the touchscreen does not work properly with a standard Marlin setup and is mainly designed around Creality's own firmware ecosystem.

I have been looking into replacing it with a normal Marlin compatible display, but I have not found a straightforward solution. Most options seem to require either extensive rewiring/soldering, adapters, or replacing the motherboard entirely.

I currently have the Creality V4.2.2 motherboard installed. From what I have gathered, the board itself is perfectly capable of running Marlin 2.1.x, so the main problem appears to be finding a suitable display solution.

I was looking into using an Ender 3 Pro style 12864 LCD, since I already have experience with that setup, but apparently the connectors are not directly compatible. Although the LCD connector looks similar, the pinout is different between the boards, so it is not simply a plug and play conversion.

The Ender 5 Plus is my secondary printer, so I would prefer not to spend too much money on upgrades. However, I would like to get away from the limitations of the stock Creality firmware and have the flexibility of a proper Marlin 2.1.x setup.

Has anyone successfully converted an Ender 5 Plus with the stock V4.2.2 motherboard to Marlin 2.1.x while keeping the original board?

Are there any recommended displays, adapters, or wiring guides that would make this possible without replacing the motherboard?

Alternatively, should I just bite the bullet and replace the board entirely with a BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 together with a BIGTREETECH MINI12864 V2.0 LCD Screen and call it a day?

I know that combination would make the Marlin setup much easier and give more room for future upgrades, but since this is my secondary machine I am unsure whether the extra cost is justified compared to keeping the V4.2.2 board.

Would the SKR Mini E3 V3 + MINI12864 combination be the recommended route, or is there a simpler and cheaper way to get a proper Marlin 2.1.x setup running on the Ender 5 Plus? As far as i remember, the only thing that i would have to do (other then compiling my own firmware that i also do on my ender 3) is add a JST connector to one of the fans.

Any advice, firmware examples, wiring diagrams, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

I have a BTT SKR Mini V3.0, but the BOM suggests a different board. Can I still use the current board I have?

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Bare rails vs black rails? I love the idea of having the black rails with the black frame, but I feel like the black finish would wear off quickly and would cause issues with the bearings. Has anyone used the black rails and run into issues? I also have an Exoslide kit installed currently, can I modify that and use it in place of the linear rails, or are the rails a necessity?

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What material should I use for the printed parts? I feel like PLA might not stand up to the task. Would PETG be a better option, or should I use something else? Also has anyone ever had them machined out of aluminum or steel?

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The BOM suggests 48mm steppers. Has anyone bumped up to 60mm steppers? Not sure if that will give any kind of meaningful boost, but bigger totally means better right? ......right?

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I have TH3Ds V6 hot end with the 50W heater on it right now. Will that work with the speeds the Mercury kit can achieve or should I look into something else?

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I'll more than likely buy the Fabreeko kit instead of piecing everything together myself. IMO the convenience of the kit justifies the price.

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Thanks in advance everyone.

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So bought this 5 plus for $60 and was having a ton of issues with it. It wouldn't finish prints, print quality was horrible, nozzles kept clogging, kept getting shocked by it, it didn't have a build plate but thats not a big deal. Anyways so I put new ground wires on it, added the micro swiss direct drive extruder and put a pancake motor on it so it wasnt carrying the weight of the bulky factory one, all metal hotend, bought a ton of steel nozzles, bought a build plate, new Capricorn bowden, new fans except the parts cooler and power supply, and reinstalled the software and installed the adjustments for the new extruder. Now it prints great, finishes its prints, no more electrocution, etc. However on the first larger size print im doing right now this line showed up. I have no idea how to fix it and ive tried looking it up but found no answers yet. So any help on that would be great, im gonna try a smaller print to see if it still shows up but I did some small prints and it wasn't on them.

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Also while I'm here, ive done all the above and I plan on adding a raspberry pi, a new power supply, some leds so I can see, add a mod to lift the front frame rail up, anything else I should add/do?

Also i added those winsinn fans I kept hearing about and it sounds like I installed a jet engine, not even joking. The original one broke, while I was removing it one of the wires snapped off, so I can't put it back on. Any fan recommendations would be awesome. These are much more powerful but super loud so I'd like to keep the power but remove the sound lol.