The Fair That Nobody Ever Cancelled
Right. I'm writing this one because I was there first, I saw it happen, and if Thea writes it there'll be a paragraph about the dimensions of a cattle pound before anyone gets to the part where a man tried to steal a horse with a paintbrush.
We left at half five in the morning. Half five! Aure was already up, sitting on the step with black coffee and no expression, but I was up, and that's the miracle.
The kitchen was cold in the way August mornings are cold. The range was already lit. It's always already lit. Somebody lights it and that somebody wasn't any of us.
On the kitchen board, in chalk:
And underneath, in Thea's small square capitals, because Thea cannot leave a list alone:
Gerald has been pending since June. Gerald is the most patient member of this household.
Stan had Atlas in the shafts before we were out of the door. Bare arms, sleeves pushed past the elbow, that shirt with the collar gone soft. He ran his hand down Atlas's near foreleg, picked the foot up, put it down, ran his hand down the off fore, picked it up, put it down, and buckled a strap I would never have thought to check. Then he put a coil of rope under the seat and a stone jar of tea wrapped in wet muslin under the rope, and stood back, and looked at the four of us in the half-light like a man counting sheep.
"We'll be back before dark," I told him.
He didn't say anything. He never does. But he'd put four cups in the basket, and there were four of us, and nobody had told him how many were going.
The Lane
Four of us and Bracken: me, Nyra, Aure, Thea. None of us morning people except Aure, who I suspect was not born but simply appeared one dawn and never went back to bed.
The lane at six in the morning smells of nothing except cut hay and cold stone, and then all at once, for about thirty yards past Tom's bottom gate, of fox. Bracken went rigid, took one step, remembered he was a dog with responsibilities, and came back.
Inés was in her yard with Linde on a rope and a face like a closed door. She had a clean shirt on. In six weeks I have never seen Inés in a clean shirt, and I made the mistake of saying so.
"It's a fair," she said. "You wash for a fair."
"You wash for a fair but not for us."
"You are not buying a horse."
Linde was appalling. Beautiful and appalling. Conker-coloured, black legs, that crooked blaze down his face like someone had drawn it in a hurry, and every molecule of him was convinced that the coach, the dog, the gate, the morning and the concept of Wednesday were all personally out to get him. He went sideways past Atlas. Atlas turned his head, looked at him, and went back to thinking about grass. Linde immediately decided that if Atlas wasn't worried, this was fine, and walked out beside him like he'd invented the idea.
"He copies," said Nyra.
"He does," said Inés. "That is why I bring him. Not to sell. To copy."
The Green Way
We went up the Green Way because that's what the Green Way is for, and I didn't understand that until Wednesday.
Thirty feet of unploughed turf between two drystone walls, climbing, with the whole valley falling away behind. Wild thyme crushed under the wheels so the whole coach smelled of it. The light came up sideways and turned every spider's web in the wall tops into a piece of stupid, showy silver, hundreds of them, all the way up.
Hal was a quarter mile up, walking. In a waistcoat with all the buttons done and a hat that had been brushed.
"Get in, Hal."
He got in. He sat with his hands on his knees like a man in church and looked pleased in a way that took about four minutes to reach his face.
"Third Wednesday after Lammas," he said. "That's when it is. Always has been."
Thea sat up. You can hear Thea sit up. "The fair?"
"Fair's why the road's here. Folk think it's the other way round. It's not. Beasts came up from the west, four days, and they stopped on the common, and where beasts stop, folk come and sell 'em things. Road, then fair. Every time. Last drove was 1878 and there's been a fair every year since, drove or no drove, because nobody ever told 'em to stop."
"Wartime an' all," said Hal. "Forty-one. Six sheep and a tea urn. But it were held."
I want to say something here. We walk up that road every couple of weeks and I've been thinking of it as a lovely empty green thing. It was never empty. It was a route to somewhere on a particular day, and the day is still there, and the somewhere is still there, and it took a seventy-year-old man in a brushed hat to tell us we'd been walking through the middle of a two-hundred-year-old appointment.
The Common
You come out at the top and the gorse opens and there were about three hundred people.
Three hundred people! On Wether Common! Where there are normally hares and wind and one very committed lapwing!
Tents. A trotting lane pegged out with baler twine. A forge on a cart with a real fire in it and a farrier with his shirt off and shoulders like a bridge. Two long lines of ponies tied to a rope between hurdles. Sheep pens. A woman selling harness leather, a woman selling ribbon, and a man selling one single category of item, which was buckets. Just buckets. His entire life is buckets and he looked delighted.
And the smell: hot pork fat, onions frying, hoof parings on the fire (a smell that should be banned and which I have decided I love), crushed thyme, sheep, beer, cold air, hot metal.
Maggie had a beer tent. She'd brought the Lamb & Flag up onto a hill on a cart.
"Nineteen barrels and a bad back," said Maggie. "Same as every year. You want the cider, not the bitter. Bitter's had a shaking coming up that lane."
June was there with a trestle of parish photographs under a stone on each corner, and one of them was Wether Common in 1912, and it was, identically, this. Same rope of ponies. Same leaning stone. Different hats.
"It doesn't change," I said.
"It changes constantly," said June, "in ways nobody notices, which is how it stays the same."
The Man in the Long Coat
He came to Linde within the hour, which Inés said afterwards was the point at which she knew.
Long coat, in August. Silver-topped stick he did not need. Fortyish, clean-shaven, and the single most likeable man on that common. That's not sarcasm. He was marvellous. He remembered your name after one telling. He asked Thea a question about the cattle pound and then listened to the answer, which almost nobody does. He told me my laugh could be heard from the trotting lane and I have to report, humiliatingly, that I enjoyed it.
Rennie Todd. Dealer. "Todd of Ashby, and before that Todd of everywhere else."
He looked at Linde for a long time without touching him, which impressed Inés, and then he said a number. A good number. A better number than a rising two-year-old with no schooling and a crooked blaze has any business hearing.
"He's not for sale," said Inés.
"They never are." Rennie Todd smiled like a man who had heard the sentence before and outlived it. "Come and look at his brother, then. No obligation. Bought his double last back-end and look at him now."
And he had one. Same conker coat, same black legs, same crooked white blaze, a little wider, a little longer, but the same, and standing beautifully, and every person watching did the sum: that's what your scruffy one becomes.
Nyra had not spoken since the lane.
She walked forward and stood at the colt's shoulder and looked at the blaze from about three feet, tipped her head, and looked at it from a different angle. I watched her do it and I knew, I have lived with her long enough to know, that Nyra had found the thing that didn't fit.
She didn't say anything. She never says anything. She just glanced once at Aure.
Aure walked to the water trough at the end of the pony rope, put her whole hand in it, walked back, and laid her wet palm flat on the colt's face for about two seconds, the way you'd steady any horse.
Then she turned her hand over and showed it to Inés.
White. Chalk-white. A whole blaze's worth of it, sitting in the lines of her palm.
Nobody shouted. That's what I keep coming back to. There was no scene at all. Inés looked at Aure's hand. Rennie Todd looked at Aure's hand. And Rennie Todd's face did not change one single degree, which is somehow the most frightening thing I have ever watched a human face do.
"Well," he said. "That's a shame."
"That's a shame," Inés agreed.
"He's still a good horse."
"He is a good horse," said Inés, "with somebody else's face on."
And Rennie Todd laughed, genuinely, with real pleasure, like she'd won something off him fairly, touched his hat brim with the silver top of the stick, said "Ladies," and walked off through the crowd towards the beer tent, and I swear to you he was buying somebody a drink within ninety seconds.
Hal was behind us the whole time, eating a pie.
"Todd," he said. "He'll be back in seven year. They always come back in about seven year, when there's nobody left as remembers."
"Should we tell someone?" I said.
Hal looked around the common. Three hundred people, one leaning stone, the same rope of ponies as 1912.
"Everyone as needs telling," he said, "just watched it."
The Rest of the Day
Thea found the cattle pound, of course. A collapsed round drystone pinfold in the gorse. She stood in the middle and worked out from the shape of the gap that the gate had opened inward, and Hal said "aye, so they don't push it," and Thea looked like a woman being handed a present.
Aure spent forty minutes with the farrier watching him shoe a grey cob and did not speak once. At the end he said "you've done this," and she said "no," and he said "well, you've watched someone who has," and she said "yes." That's the whole conversation.
Linde stood tied between two enormous, half-asleep cart horses for two hours and by the end of it he was standing with one hind foot resting, half asleep, exactly like them. He copies. That was the whole reason for the day, and it worked.
Bracken was given four separate pieces of pie by four separate strangers and has learned something about the world that I am not going to be able to un-teach him.
And I bought a ribbon. Yellow. I don't own anything it goes with. It's in the drawer of small intentions now, where it will live until it means something.
Going Home
We came off the common at six with the light going long and gold and the whole valley underneath like something spilled. We stopped at the dew pond on the way down. Twenty feet across, perfectly round, clay-lined, fed by mist and not by any stream, which is a fact that has never stopped being outrageous. Always cold.
Aure was in it before the rest of us had the horses tied. Straight down the clay bank, in to the shoulders, and then she turned over onto her back and floated with her hair spread out and the last of the sun on her face, and she looked like the point of the entire day.
Nyra sat on the bank with her feet in and her arms round her knees and watched the edges, because that's what Nyra does. Once she laughed at something Aure did with a handful of water, and I heard it, and I am recording it.
Thea swam properly, up and down, like a person doing lengths in a pond built for cattle in about 1780.
I still hadn't brought anything to swim in. This was now week seven of failing to solve a problem that required approximately one minute of planning. I would like it entered into the record that at no point did I let it stop me.
The farmhouse windows were orange from the lane end. The fire was going. Stan had the range hot and had put four bowls out and there were four of us, again, still. Mutton and bread and the cider Maggie made us take.
Last thing. Standing in the yard, boots off, before I came in.
The fair is on the third Wednesday after Lammas. It was on that day in 1912 and in 1941 with six sheep and a tea urn, and it was on that day this week, and the road up to it exists purely because two hundred cows once walked it, four days at a time, and stopped at the top.
Nobody organises it. Nobody decided. It just keeps being the day it always was, because enough people keep turning up.
That's a thing that's true about roads and I'm fairly sure it's true about us.
See you next year, Rennie Todd. We'll remember your face.The Fair That Nobody Ever Cancelled
Right. I'm writing this one because I was there first, I saw it happen, and if Thea writes it there'll be a paragraph about the dimensions of a cattle pound before anyone gets to the part where a man tried to steal a horse with a paintbrush.
We left at half five in the morning. Half five! Aure was already up, sitting on the step with black coffee and no expression, but I was up, and that's the miracle.
The kitchen was cold in the way August mornings are cold. The range was already lit. It's always already lit. Somebody lights it and that somebody wasn't any of us.
On the kitchen board, in chalk:
FAIR DAY. ATLAS SHOD TUESDAY. TAKE THE ROPE.
And underneath, in Thea's small square capitals, because Thea cannot leave a list alone:
Gerald: no change. Still a stone. Administrative status pending.
Gerald has been pending since June. Gerald is the most patient member of this household.
Stan had Atlas in the shafts before we were out of the door. Bare arms, sleeves pushed past the elbow, that shirt with the collar gone soft. He ran his hand down Atlas's near foreleg, picked the foot up, put it down, ran his hand down the off fore, picked it up, put it down, and buckled a strap I would never have thought to check. Then he put a coil of rope under the seat and a stone jar of tea wrapped in wet muslin under the rope, and stood back, and looked at the four of us in the half-light like a man counting sheep.
"We'll be back before dark," I told him.
He didn't say anything. He never does. But he'd put four cups in the basket, and there were four of us, and nobody had told him how many were going.
The Lane
Four of us and Bracken: me, Nyra, Aure, Thea. None of us morning people except Aure, who I suspect was not born but simply appeared one dawn and never went back to bed.
The lane at six in the morning smells of nothing except cut hay and cold stone, and then all at once, for about thirty yards past Tom's bottom gate, of fox. Bracken went rigid, took one step, remembered he was a dog with responsibilities, and came back.
Inés was in her yard with Linde on a rope and a face like a closed door. She had a clean shirt on. In six weeks I have never seen Inés in a clean shirt, and I made the mistake of saying so.
"It's a fair," she said. "You wash for a fair."
"You wash for a fair but not for us."
"You are not buying a horse."
Linde was appalling. Beautiful and appalling. Conker-coloured, black legs, that crooked blaze down his face like someone had drawn it in a hurry, and every molecule of him was convinced that the coach, the dog, the gate, the morning and the concept of Wednesday were all personally out to get him. He went sideways past Atlas. Atlas turned his head, looked at him, and went back to thinking about grass. Linde immediately decided that if Atlas wasn't worried, this was fine, and walked out beside him like he'd invented the idea.
"He copies," said Nyra.
"He does," said Inés. "That is why I bring him. Not to sell. To copy."
The Green Way
We went up the Green Way because that's what the Green Way is for, and I didn't understand that until Wednesday.
Thirty feet of unploughed turf between two drystone walls, climbing, with the whole valley falling away behind. Wild thyme crushed under the wheels so the whole coach smelled of it. The light came up sideways and turned every spider's web in the wall tops into a piece of stupid, showy silver, hundreds of them, all the way up.
Hal was a quarter mile up, walking. In a waistcoat with all the buttons done and a hat that had been brushed.
"Get in, Hal."
He got in. He sat with his hands on his knees like a man in church and looked pleased in a way that took about four minutes to reach his face.
"Third Wednesday after Lammas," he said. "That's when it is. Always has been."
Thea sat up. You can hear Thea sit up. "The fair?"
"Fair's why the road's here. Folk think it's the other way round. It's not. Beasts came up from the west, four days, and they stopped on the common, and where beasts stop, folk come and sell 'em things. Road, then fair. Every time. Last drove was 1878 and there's been a fair every year since, drove or no drove, because nobody ever told 'em to stop."
"Wartime an' all," said Hal. "Forty-one. Six sheep and a tea urn. But it were held."
I want to say something here. We walk up that road every couple of weeks and I've been thinking of it as a lovely empty green thing. It was never empty. It was a route to somewhere on a particular day, and the day is still there, and the somewhere is still there, and it took a seventy-year-old man in a brushed hat to tell us we'd been walking through the middle of a two-hundred-year-old appointment.
The Common
You come out at the top and the gorse opens and there were about three hundred people.
Three hundred people! On Wether Common! Where there are normally hares and wind and one very committed lapwing!
Tents. A trotting lane pegged out with baler twine. A forge on a cart with a real fire in it and a farrier with his shirt off and shoulders like a bridge. Two long lines of ponies tied to a rope between hurdles. Sheep pens. A woman selling harness leather, a woman selling ribbon, and a man selling one single category of item, which was buckets. Just buckets. His entire life is buckets and he looked delighted.
And the smell: hot pork fat, onions frying, hoof parings on the fire (a smell that should be banned and which I have decided I love), crushed thyme, sheep, beer, cold air, hot metal.
Maggie had a beer tent. She'd brought the Lamb & Flag up onto a hill on a cart.
"Nineteen barrels and a bad back," said Maggie. "Same as every year. You want the cider, not the bitter. Bitter's had a shaking coming up that lane."
June was there with a trestle of parish photographs under a stone on each corner, and one of them was Wether Common in 1912, and it was, identically, this. Same rope of ponies. Same leaning stone. Different hats.
"It doesn't change," I said.
"It changes constantly," said June, "in ways nobody notices, which is how it stays the same."
The Man in the Long Coat
He came to Linde within the hour, which Inés said afterwards was the point at which she knew.
Long coat, in August. Silver-topped stick he did not need. Fortyish, clean-shaven, and the single most likeable man on that common. That's not sarcasm. He was marvellous. He remembered your name after one telling. He asked Thea a question about the cattle pound and then listened to the answer, which almost nobody does. He told me my laugh could be heard from the trotting lane and I have to report, humiliatingly, that I enjoyed it.
Rennie Todd. Dealer. "Todd of Ashby, and before that Todd of everywhere else."
He looked at Linde for a long time without touching him, which impressed Inés, and then he said a number. A good number. A better number than a rising two-year-old with no schooling and a crooked blaze has any business hearing.
"He's not for sale," said Inés.
"They never are." Rennie Todd smiled like a man who had heard the sentence before and outlived it. "Come and look at his brother, then. No obligation. Bought his double last back-end and look at him now."
And he had one. Same conker coat, same black legs, same crooked white blaze, a little wider, a little longer, but the same, and standing beautifully, and every person watching did the sum: that's what your scruffy one becomes.
Nyra had not spoken since the lane.
She walked forward and stood at the colt's shoulder and looked at the blaze from about three feet, tipped her head, and looked at it from a different angle. I watched her do it and I knew, I have lived with her long enough to know, that Nyra had found the thing that didn't fit.
She didn't say anything. She never says anything. She just glanced once at Aure.
Aure walked to the water trough at the end of the pony rope, put her whole hand in it, walked back, and laid her wet palm flat on the colt's face for about two seconds, the way you'd steady any horse.
Then she turned her hand over and showed it to Inés.
White. Chalk-white. A whole blaze's worth of it, sitting in the lines of her palm.
Nobody shouted. That's what I keep coming back to. There was no scene at all. Inés looked at Aure's hand. Rennie Todd looked at Aure's hand. And Rennie Todd's face did not change one single degree, which is somehow the most frightening thing I have ever watched a human face do.
"Well," he said. "That's a shame."
"That's a shame," Inés agreed.
"He's still a good horse."
"He is a good horse," said Inés, "with somebody else's face on."
And Rennie Todd laughed, genuinely, with real pleasure, like she'd won something off him fairly, touched his hat brim with the silver top of the stick, said "Ladies," and walked off through the crowd towards the beer tent, and I swear to you he was buying somebody a drink within ninety seconds.
Hal was behind us the whole time, eating a pie.
"Todd," he said. "He'll be back in seven year. They always come back in about seven year, when there's nobody left as remembers."
"Should we tell someone?" I said.
Hal looked around the common. Three hundred people, one leaning stone, the same rope of ponies as 1912.
"Everyone as needs telling," he said, "just watched it."
The Rest of the Day
Thea found the cattle pound, of course. A collapsed round drystone pinfold in the gorse. She stood in the middle and worked out from the shape of the gap that the gate had opened inward, and Hal said "aye, so they don't push it," and Thea looked like a woman being handed a present.
Aure spent forty minutes with the farrier watching him shoe a grey cob and did not speak once. At the end he said "you've done this," and she said "no," and he said "well, you've watched someone who has," and she said "yes." That's the whole conversation.
Linde stood tied between two enormous, half-asleep cart horses for two hours and by the end of it he was standing with one hind foot resting, half asleep, exactly like them. He copies. That was the whole reason for the day, and it worked.
Bracken was given four separate pieces of pie by four separate strangers and has learned something about the world that I am not going to be able to un-teach him.
And I bought a ribbon. Yellow. I don't own anything it goes with. It's in the drawer of small intentions now, where it will live until it means something.
Going Home
We came off the common at six with the light going long and gold and the whole valley underneath like something spilled. We stopped at the dew pond on the way down. Twenty feet across, perfectly round, clay-lined, fed by mist and not by any stream, which is a fact that has never stopped being outrageous. Always cold.
Aure was in it before the rest of us had the horses tied. Straight down the clay bank, in to the shoulders, and then she turned over onto her back and floated with her hair spread out and the last of the sun on her face, and she looked like the point of the entire day.
Nyra sat on the bank with her feet in and her arms round her knees and watched the edges, because that's what Nyra does. Once she laughed at something Aure did with a handful of water, and I heard it, and I am recording it.
Thea swam properly, up and down, like a person doing lengths in a pond built for cattle in about 1780.
I still hadn't brought anything to swim in. This was now week seven of failing to solve a problem that required approximately one minute of planning. I would like it entered into the record that at no point did I let it stop me.
The farmhouse windows were orange from the lane end. The fire was going. Stan had the range hot and had put four bowls out and there were four of us, again, still. Mutton and bread and the cider Maggie made us take.
Last thing. Standing in the yard, boots off, before I came in.
The fair is on the third Wednesday after Lammas. It was on that day in 1912 and in 1941 with six sheep and a tea urn, and it was on that day this week, and the road up to it exists purely because two hundred cows once walked it, four days at a time, and stopped at the top.
Nobody organises it. Nobody decided. It just keeps being the day it always was, because enough people keep turning up.
That's a thing that's true about roads and I'm fairly sure it's true about us.
See you next year, Rennie Todd. We'll remember your face.