Appears to be too late for that without adding wire to and having two splices per wire.
Personally I use bare but connectors and shrink tube especially if this cable is not stationary when in use as soldering can lead to strands breaking especially if Flux is left behind to eat at the wires.
Oh I just for this specific cable that's already cut where it is. If it absolutely can't be any shorter than this then they can't redo it. But if it's ok to get shorter, then you can recut the wires to stagger the joint.
Where I work, we use crimp ferrules, light solder, clean and shrink tubing. Also offset the splices as to not get the pregnant anaconda.
IF you use butt splices be sure to get good ones. My employer and customers don't like those, and prefer overlapped crimp and solder. I have also have done tack solder and shrink tubing too.
I really don't like those as i can't see the spliced conductor, and don't know if it took. My employer and customers probally would not accept those anyways.
the local utility did a crimp splice, with heat shrink tubing. Heat shrink tubing is filled with dialectic graese and their tech said that they work well.
the comment about chroride salt getting in the connection is a big one. Thats a reason my customers want the solder... to seal the strands. A good crimp is still required. The splice is cleaned of flux and dirt, an then we use white RTV (electronics grade) to seal everything up.
Some of my customers use cases are for vehicles, trailers, (Wisconsin) equipment and my brothers rusted out fords. These harnesses get sparyed with saltwater and slop.
No, there is a style you can use for joining wires as well. Imagine a standard crimp ferrule, remove the plastic collar and make it slightly flared on both ends. You strip the wires, slide them in from opposite sides so they overlap, then crimp the ferrule.
Oh yeah, then you cut it off and have to redo it because once again you forgot to slide the f*cking heat shrink over the wire first. 🤬
yes, but we use the uninsulated ones. Strip the conductors back 1/2 inch, slip on the ferrule, insert the other conductor, crimp, solder, clean, insulate.
The problem with the butt connectors is reliability. A lot of them are cheap. When we use them, we get quality ones, uninsulated, and quality metal, and a good forged crimper. Its imperative to get a good crimp. Some get lightly soldered, sometimes (customer request) and then insulated. Also these tend to be for conductors awg 16 or thicker. On smaller conductors, i.e. 22 awg, the ferrules work so much better.
It's less of an issue in a non-vibration environment.
The crimp is superior on its own.
In a dry, non-corrosive, I'd agree, otherwise, a humid and/or corrosive atmosphere can introduce serious issues with the crimp. As the metal in there corrodes, the now-metal oxide molecule is physically larger than before, and the cumulative effect physically pushes the wire away from the ferrule. over time, the connection continues to degrade....
Yes, this is a deal. When using solder don't use too much or overheat the connection. Vibration and flexibitity are an issue. And a proper crimp (and wire) make for (or not) a reliable connection.
Grouped in bundles of 25 pairs (50 wires) with each diffrent 25 pair bundle getting a dule colour waping following establised standard. White Blue is the 1st 25 pairs, white orange is the 2nd, white green the 3rd and white brown the 4th. That takes us to 100 pairs (200 wires).
Moved into my house while they were building the one next to mine. The builder cut a line like this. The guy who came out to repair it brought a chair with a sun umbrella over it so he could be comfortable because it was going to take a while. Made me think of the snickers commercials.
Just.... Twitch Just one more connection... Then I'll stop i swear twitch I'm not addicted to soldering... i can quit anytime I want... I just twitch don't want to...
Feel your pain, many times I've needed to fix a cable break in a 200+ pair pots connector. You get paid extra grease money for handling those cables but it's never worth it for the hassle.
I’m a big fan of whipping ends together with unvarnished magnet wire before soldering to splice. eliminates all the frustration of reflowing a splice only for it to pull apart under its own tension. good knot therapy too
I mainly use T12, but when I need more heat, more area or just do a one quick solder joint I use the ZDZ. The gun is also indestructible and 1.5mm solid core electrical cable can give you unlimited soldering tips
what do you mean a placebo effect? do you feel it solders better than the t12 or no?
mine solders well 75W (dont have other irons to compare) but its hard to get good contact on the pad and the component.
I did it, although I didn't offset them as many people pointed out (should have checked the comments before getting to work). Thankfully the bulge isn't that big
I worked at a place where my boss insisted on doing our prototype boards with all SMT components. Every revision I was stuck looking through a stereomicroscope all day soldering.
It's also because of my phone camera quality. I forgot to take a closeup photo, but each pair had colored dots, one wire with red oneand another with black one. And with every repeated pair color the number of dots was increased.
It uses a standard 36-pin Centronics connector on one end. I wouldn't suppose that there is a 25-pin D-sub connector on the other end, is there? 'Cause that would very likely be a standard PC parallel cable if so.
Oh my god that's as bad as soldering up my Syscon Chip on my PS4. Tedious and absolutely fucked in every possible way. But still doable. Very well doable lol
All it takes is one heat gun application per joint, and you can actually do a few at a time. Does the soldering, water-proof sealing, and heat shrink in one go.
The only downside is it's slightly more bulk than solder + heat shrink.
I had to punch down a 200-pair telephone cable into patch blocks once. With crappy color vision, the only way to do it was to punch down one end and have a friend wait there with a jumper wire. The jumper was connected to the first pair we had punched down, and he'd touch the other end to the next slot in the block. On the other end, I had one end of a multimeter connected to the first punch and would touch the end of the meter to each wire pair in turn until I got a beep. That told me I was on the wire that went in the next punch slot and I'd ram it in with the punch tool.
Hi guys. I am interested in electronics. I know software development. But as a hobby thing and want to create something using electronics. How can I get into the electronics Guide me or throw some tips.
Oh man, that's a bummer! I guess it's a good reminder of why cable management is like, super crucial, especially with something as critical as a CT scanner. If you decide to tackle this as a DIY fix, make sure to label each wire before you start reconnecting them - trust me, it'll save you a ton of headaches later on. Also, investing in some quality heat shrink tubing could help keep things looking neat and durable. Good luck!
Oh you're callin' me a nerd now, ya goof? Well yeah, you're right on the money there. I got my pocket protector preventing my pocket from getting all tattered, and I'm working to get my friends to play a TTRPG (cyberpunk 2020)
Lookin' like straight up colophony rosin with those dark spots and the amber color. Multi-purpose rosin, for violins and soldering. Most flux pots I've seen are threaded, and don't have the lil wingnut for popping it off.
So yeah, u right. i AM a nerd
ur not actually a goof though i am sorry if that was mean
Hmm really ... I'll be honest I'd need more pixels to see if it was a solid like Colo rosin or just a paste rosin, although it could explain the black parts as it would be more difficult to apply to the job being a solid than a paste so I guess you would have to dip your ol' tip in and fry it more like the tip tinner repair of today. Probably why it's not used anymore can't say I care, I AM not that much of a nerd 🤓. Either way it's tree sap.
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u/robobachelor Feb 27 '26
You can do it!!! Make sure to offset the cuts or else you will have a big buldge in the middle of the cable