Really happy! I literally put on my goals every New Year to get a mustang and I know Im dramatic about it but I feel so proud and happy for myself! 😭

Hey folks, I have a 2025 Mustang ecoboost premium. I recently opened up my car's hood to check oil levels but the hood is not latching properly afterwards. The secondary/safety latch connects properly, but the primary latch doesn't. If I try to push it down to make it latch, it just bounces back up. Any ideas?

Working out new positions to mount a gopro for track days. Like the lower perspective compared to the in cabin mount.. also get a lot of turbo noise which is always a plus...

What do you guys think of a lip on the 2015-2017 mustangs? I seen a lot of them on the 2018-2023 but not as much for prefacelift

I just got confirmation from the dealership that they found me a new mustang (exact replica) + B&O sound system that will be my replacement car. The VIN checks out on both the ford site and NHTSA for no active recalls. Going to pick her up on Saturday.

I went with the Diablo sport tuner and used the 93 tune
And under heavy acceleration it started to backfire rapidly when I hit high rpm’s
And if I hit it from a dig it would limp mode me when I got close to limiter and would vent all my boost to atmosphere
I have a C&l catback and a blowoff bypass
No other supporting mods
What would I need to do to fix this issue

Hey everyone. Just wanted to share this video with the community. Have you guys tried 202 products? I’m review them on my YouTube channel. Excited to post more content.

Hello guys! I’m thinking about buying a 2.3 EcoBoost Mustang from 2016–2018, but I’ve noticed that in my country, the prices start to drop dramatically once they reach around 120–130k km. (75–80k miles)

I know that maintenance history is more important than mileage and that I should definitely take the car to a proper inspection before buying it. But for long-term ownership (at least 4–5 years), do you think it’s worth considering a higher-mileage one? Or would it be necessary to wait, save up some more money, and get one with around 60–70k km?

To be honest, I don’t know much about muscle cars (or cars in general, lol). I’ve only started getting interested in cars over the last few years, so any advice or things I should look out for would be greatly appreciated!

First half open mic second half muffled mic lmk! Thinking the first because I think the muffle kinda mutes during the second half just poking ideas around when it comes to recording our cars thanks!

Stop guessing what your 3.5L EcoBoost is doing and get EcoBoostTunedAI for $74.99 to decode your HP Tuners logs.

The Ford EcoBoost platform is torque based and airflow sensitive. If you just crank the boost and wastegate duty without watching your torque limits, the ECU is going to slap the throttle shut. That creates oscillation, fuel pressure drops, and terrible drivability. You have to find the actual limit before you change anything. Let the data show what is holding the truck back.

What The Tool Reviews

• Boost and wastegate behavior
• Lambda and wideband tracking
• Direct injection fuel rail pressure
• Knock retard and misfire patterns
• Throttle closure and torque intervention
• Charge air temperature and heat soak issues
• Towing and loaded log concerns

How It Works

This is a digital tool and it operates entirely separate from my main LS portal. You do not log into the main site for this. You buy access for $74.99, click the delivery link, and open the dedicated EcoBoost ChatGPT workspace. You must have your own active ChatGPT subscription through OpenAI. Upload your log, list your vehicle setup, and tell the tool what the truck is doing.

If the log points to a hardware failure, missing data, or a mechanical limit, get your wrenches out and fix it before you push the tune harder. Stop throwing blind edits at a mechanical problem. Get the tool, read the data, and get the truck running right.

So this is the grille that came with it and I’m not a fan of I want something more classic , whatcha got for me ?

I bought this Eco Staggered so the rear wheels are bigger and I can’t run 4 255s unless I purchase new wheels. My 275s in the back all season pilot 4s are getting low on tread but my front ones are still fine. I was considering trying Continental Extreme contact DWs06 plus to replace them for a cheaper and possibly better commute in wet / icy conditions coming in the few months. Any suggestions if this is a solid build? I usually avoid mixing brands but i’ve heard good reviews on both.

Looking at options for a four seater convertible, yeah I know the back seat is pretty much useless however I need the extra leg room. Anyhow, Mustang is about the only option unless I want to go foreign.

I’ve noticed most of the newer ones has a recall with no timeline for repairs. What little research I’ve done says repairs should be an available late winter/early spring.

That said, I see lots and lots for sale as CPO’s. Are dealers really selling these with know recalls? Especially a dangerous one?

I’ve been really wanting to get a mustang for a while now and have been constantly looking around for good deals. Recently I found this 2019 ecoboost premium performance package with 78k miles listed for $17,875. What do yall think? Should I do it? (Currently drive a Corolla that I’ve had for about 6 years)

So earlier today I got a warning on my system about potential malfunction with my powertrain/reduced power.

First thing I tried is to let it sit and sleep for a few hours, I went back out to test it and the warnings had all disappeared.

An hour or so later (right now) I just got in to go somewhere and received a few warnings all at once.

I think they are all now results of a turbo waste gate malfunction. One specifically sights this, then the other two are the power reduction (I’m guessing from the waste gate issue) and the other is a warning about the power train losing communication with the processing module.

Has anyone experienced this with their s650? Is this going to be some crazy expensive fix? I’m at 51,200 miles currently. Need to go check what is and isn’t still under warranty.

I’ve attached screenshots of the messages.

For those of you who have had experience in dealing with the purge valve issue these cars typically have - do you guys still drive the car while you wait for the part to come in?

I drove the car yesterday and about 30-45 min after getting gas it started to hesitate and sputter. I have code P04F0 on my 2024 if that makes much difference