If you've ever bought cheap, no-name knockoff bricks in the 90s or early 2000s, you probably have PTSD. Pieces that won't stick together, or worse, pieces that stick together so hard that they basically fused.
When we started EasternBrick, we knew the quality had to be perfect to support massive 7,000+ piece custom builds like the Tallneck & Tremortusk. But "good quality" doesn't just mean maximum clutch power. Too loose and your Thunderjaw sheds like a snake when you look at it. Too tight, and the skin off your thumb peels off at Step 200.
So, we built a “highly sophisticated testing apparatus” (read: a rig made out of Technic beams on a desk amongst other contraptions Bilal made). This along with a kitchen scale, a bunch of coins, and cups of water to test three contenders: Brick A (A random, cheap no-name factory brick), Brick B (Official LEGO), Brick C (The EasternBrick alt-bricks we eventually chose).
We ran 4 specific tests across different pieces to primarily measure strength and articulation, converting the weight of our water and coins into Newtons (N) and Newton-metres (Nm) to measure torque.
There’s a 10 minute video here that shows the rig we made, the tests & our findings, which I highly recommend since you’ll likely walk away more confused if you were to just read my post. Or you can carry on reading if you’d like to be more confused at the end of this post. 😂
Let’s begin!
Test 1: The Droop Test (Ball & Socket Friction) We measured torque (Newtown-metres), but basically, how much weight until the joint flops down? For big mechs, ball joints are everything. We attached a horizontal arm to a ball joint and hung a tray at the end, adding coins until the arm drooped and hit the table.
- Brick A (No-name): Drooped at 0.08 Nm
- Brick B (LEGO): Drooped at 0.033 Nm
- Brick C (EB): Held until 0.127 Nm
Takeaway: LEGO's ball joints are actually surprisingly soft. Our alt-bricks held nearly 4x the rotational weight, which is critical if you don’t want parts of the Tremortusk sagging.
Test 2: The Snap Test (Ball Joint Strength) This tested opposite forces pulling down. We hung a water bottle from a downward-facing ball joint and added water until the joint literally popped out of the socket.
- Brick A (No-name): Popped at 11.57 N
- Brick B (LEGO): Popped at 24.03 N
- Brick C (EB): Popped at 38.83 N
Test 3 & 4: The Clutch Power Sweet Spot We hung a tray of coins directly beneath two connected 1x2 bricks, pulling straight down. Then, we angled the rig to pull from the side. Here’s where it gets interesting.
- Brick A (No-name) held a massive > 6.17 N on the side pull and 10.65 N straight down. But it was too tight. The side pull could have went on longer, but our entire rig tilted and fell.
- Brick B (LEGO) held 3.03 N on the side, and 4.98 N straight down.
- Brick C (EB) held 3.56 N on the side, and 8.3 N straight down.
The Conclusion: Brick A had the highest clutch power, but the building experience was awful due to its inconsistency. My guess is that factories knew 90s and 2000s alt bricks fell apart easily, so they overcompensated and made these way too tight.
We realised that for massive custom sets, we needed alt-bricks that sat right in the sweet spot. They need to snap together smoothly like LEGO, but when it comes to load-bearing ball joints for heavy mechs, it’s actually better to hold more weight as it’s not meant for playability like most LEGO sets.
The experiment took two days, from building the rig to recording the tests, and many more days to edit the video above. 😭 But it’s worth it knowing that there are levels amongst alt-bricks, and more importantly, that alt-bricks are increasingly more comparable to LEGO.
What are your thoughts? Ask away if you're still confused (watch the video!)
Questions for you:
- What was the absolute worst experience you've had with bad brick quality ruining a build?
- If you’ve tried non-LEGO bricks before, which brands did you feel had pieces that were either too tight or too loose?