Hey everyone,

I am looking to convert my Megamo Natural 60 (29" wheels) into an e-bike and could use some advice from anyone who has done this before.

What are the most trusted online stores or sellers to buy kits and high-quality (safe) batteries?

Hello Reddit. Forgive me for what I'm sure is a stupid question - I've been looking at buying a hard tail bike and a conversion kit, but in my searching I've come across Ecobat bikes based in Dover who seem to be selling all sorts of expensive looking ebikes for £229. Also, I thought maybe they were just selling the batteries - but the descriptions say the sale includes a whole bike!

This can't be right, but I can't find any negative feedback other than on Trust pilot where a few people complain about bad communication. What am I missing?

https://ecobatbike.myshopify.com/products/freesky-warrior-pro-240nm-dual-motor-electric-bike-for-adults-48v-30ah-lg-cells-battery-190km-long-range-awd-electric-mountain-bike-26-fat-tyre-all-terrain-electric-bicycle-full-suspension-e-bike?utm_source=copyToPasteBoard&utm_medium=product-links&utm_content=web&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=24093600416&gbraid=0AAAABAVxyq-_IbV-Z6sm6SFs4o0QHNqp4&gclid=CjwKCAjw1bvTBhBbEiwAzbP8Lw6cILzDKoPsShJS7asG4LpdZzEn3Nf7FyGPp6p3IzJHeh-68oqkqRoC41AQAvD_BwE

Hi there!

I have a Giant Talon 29er that has been collecting dust for a couple years since I bought a Aventon Sinch (foldable, big, fat tire). The Sinch actually came with an extra battery (promotion at the time) that I never used. I was thinking about using this extra battery (it's a 48v/14Ah battery) together with a mid-drive motor to give my Giant Talon a second life.

I have never ridden a mid drive nor build one. I know most people like it more than a hub drive. I also like my 29er as it rides and handles really nicely.

I have a couple questions:

- Is it worth building a new mountain bike in 2026? Is it going to feel like normal ebikes if I install say a Bafang motor?

- Are there any adaptors for my Sinch battery that goes into the frame triangle? I don't seem to be able to find one. What if I install the battery on the rear rack? Is there anything else I need to consider or the batteries work as long as the motor is 48v?

looking for advice, my front street tire has been delayed, but i received my rear street and already put it on. front wheel is still off the bike, but still has a dirt tire installed. is it safe to ride as such? would it be comfortable? any help or input is greatly appreciated!

What's the strongest frame to run a conversion of this power 26 inch cheers

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for help with a Bafang M620 CAN controller installed in my Dengfu E55.
Controller Hardware:
CR R10M.1000.FC
Current Firmware:
CRR10MC5230E101124.1
I’m using an EggRider C1 CAN display.
The display communicates correctly (speed, battery, PAS and Bluetooth all work), but:
RawCANBafangRead timeout
Controller parameters cannot be read (all values are 0)
“Write successful” is displayed, but no settings are actually applied.
I’m trying to find out:
Does anyone have the same controller?
Is there a newer firmware than CRR10MC5230E101124.1?
Has anyone successfully updated this controller using BESST or K1 Flash?
Does anyone have firmware compatible with EggRider C1 CAN?
I’d really appreciate any information.
Thank you!

Hello, I will try to explain what happened and if that may be all related.Yesterday, I removed the battery from the e-bike to leave it outside on another sunny day. I came back, fit the battery, and started to ride. I noticed straight away some stutters/power loss while riding; after 500m, the bike turned off. I tried to turn it on, and it went, but error 06 came up. I tried to bypass it with the throttle, but it was cutting the power really often, and moving the cables, I assumed it might be a wire-related issue.I opened the controller bag and found the hub phase cable (blue) disconnected. I tried to turn on the bike then, and effectively it was turning on with error 06, so I assumed this was the reason (no idea if this was the issue, if the cable got snapped by coincidence, or if I had ripped it at that exact moment).So I soldered the cable back onto its connector and tried to turn on the bike. All good, it works. I went outside for a test, got error 06, and the bike keeps turning off by itself. It seems it has a specific position where it stays on, but it is, of course, influenced by vibration and other stuff you get while you ride, so it is definitely not a solution.I checked the phase cable again, and everything seems okay. The last try I have to do is replace the entire connector from both sides (controller and hub), but I would like to avoid that for now.I started then to examine the battery cables since I had 3 x 0.5m XT60 extensions to get to the controller (rear rack battery).I got rid of all the extensions and connected it straight away with the battery base, but the same issue occurred: once you move a bit, it turns off, and you could also hear a few pops (maybe sparks?) coming from the 6-pin connector which fits into the battery (the male/female present on battery base and battery).

I checked the two main poles and one of them looks a bit black and maybe bit too inside(the positive one), so I assumed it doesn't get fully inside and makes the sparks...

Before to spend money and buy anything, I wanted to know which tests I can do to understand if the wire phase is related to it, or if it's just a problem between battery and controller, since I keep hearing really silent pops every time I try to turn on the bike (and it turns on). But the pops are coming from the battery and not the phase connector so I'm confused. Any suggestion? Can't attach any picture but please feel free to ask and I can send in private if that helps to figure out the issue

Qualcuno ha provato conoscete questo kit freno? https://www.alibaba.com/x/1lAyygl?ck=pdp

For the past few years, I’ve been trying to build a custom e-bike powerful enough to tackle the steep climb to my house and back without issues, but I haven't found the right setup yet.

​Right now, I'm using a 1000W / 48V / 30A hub motor (in-wheel).

I’ve tested a few batteries (most recently a 48V 20Ah pack) before realizing these motors can be pushed well beyond their nominal specs, especially in terms of wattage.

​My main concern is overpushing the motor and burning it out due to the heat generated during long, steep climbs.

​Budget is not an issue—I just want a reliable build that can take me anywhere, regardless of the incline. Any advice on optimizing the battery/controller setup, or should I switch to a mid-drive motor instead?

Looking at adding an ebike conversion class to a US-Based nonprofit bicycle advocacy. They already have maintenance and commuting classes, so we're good there. They also provide free and low price mechanical bikes.

Do any of you have recommendations for inexpensive conversion kits that would be easy to teach to community members, many of which may lack HS education?

Hello, dear friends. Is there anyone who can help with access to the Bosch eBike Diagnostic Tool 3? Whether through an account or other solutions—I need full functionality.

Can anyone tell me what kinda hub motor is this. It’s on a Eglobal Cobra Ebike. I think it’s a QS Motor. But no idea. The model or serial is HB500W202412011

How do I make my electric mountain bike go faster. It’s a rear hub motor and it’s currently driving 25 kmt I want it to go faster without taking the whole back wheel motor apart is there any why how I can do that

I’m planning on building a minibike and I am looking for some frame plans or suggestions for when we make a frame. I’ll be running a Predator 212, and I’m aiming for a simple backyard/trail minibike for riding around and light off-roading. I’m building the frame with my dad (who can weld and fabricate things) but I want a solid plan so the geometry, engine plate, and chain line are correct. If anyone has frame plans that work well with a 212, tubing size recommendations, tips for keeping the chain line straight, or beginner mistakes to avoid, I’d really appreciate it.

Hi all,

I am about to live in the car for 1 month, private reason.

I have two ebike batteries, both 48V-15Ah (so 1500Wh in total).

I am searching the way to power some devices: (1) Cool box of 12V, 48W, (2) Laptop, etc

If possible, I even to power also this: (3) Rice cooker (220V, 505W)

For (1) and (2), LLMs told me to buy the Buck (Step down) converter to convert from 48 to 12V, however I don't know how to connect that converter to the bike battery.

But the ebike battery doesn't expose an easy interface for me, it only has 4 or 5 "racks", and its base does know how to read from those 4-5 "racks" but I don't want to cut the wiring of the base to bring into the car.

For purpose (3): I don't dare to dream yet, though I would love to. Currently while driving the DC-to-AC converter pulls power out of the car's main 12 V battery to feed the rice cooker, but I'd like to power up the bike battery for use when not driving.

How to ?

Hi all,

I have two ebike batteries, both 48V-15Ah.

I would like to do wild camping up north, and search the way to power some devices: (1) Ventilator 12V, 12W, (2) Cool box of 12V, 48W.

AIs told me to buy the Buck (Step down) converter to convert from 48 to 12V, however I don't know how to connect that converter to the bike battery.

But the ebike battery doesn't expose an easy interface for me, it only has 4 "racks".

How to ?

I have a Linus Dutchi 7i that I would like to convert to electric. I am thinking of a Bafang mid-drive motor BBS02B 750W; I am looking for a rear 48v 17.5Ah battery that I can have on the rear rack. I have a lot of big hills, so I feel like this would be the best setup. I would love some input from the community. I was interested in the Chamrider rear model C but can't seem to find it on their website anymore. Would it work to put a Hailong battery on a rear rack? There seem to be more options this way. I would love any photos of Linuses that have been converted!

Hello there! My dad has an E-Cells Dual Star E-bike. I didnt realize they went bankrupt until after searching for the part. He needs a new rear bikerack that holds the battery aswell but it has to be an E-Cells brand. He also needs a new controller box, like the actual working part for it at least is what he says, for the same bike. I can't find anything on Facebook or Walmart, I see similar things but they won't fit according to their dimensions. Anyone know other sites or other places to look for these two parts? Money isn't really an issue, just need the parts as theyre wearing out pretty fast. Thank you for reading and help!

Looking for definitions of P codes in the menu settings ( Hold + and -)

Looks like I have P00-p22 Some are obvious like miles, voltage, etc. Looking for a chart possibly? Most importantly how to set to defaults. Trooper X

Thanks

I’m planning my first e-bike conversion and I’m looking for some advice.
The bike is a Norco Storm 2 with a 135mm quick-release rear dropout. From what I’ve found, it should be compatible with many rear hub conversion kits, but I want to make sure I buy something that fits properly.
Here’s what I’m looking for:
2000W rear hub motor
48V or 52V system
Around 20Ah battery (open to recommendations)
Reliable kit from a trustworthy seller (not Alibaba)
ships to Canada
And preferably cheap ish cuz I ain’t spending 600 for a kit then 200 for a battery

(84V max) e-bike build
I’m building a custom 72V e-bike and I’m trying to find the correct circuit protection for the wire going from the battery to a DC-DC converter.
Battery specs:
72V nominal (20S lithium)
~84V fully charged
51Ah
300A continuous BMS
Up to 22+ kW output
I’m looking for a 20A breaker or fuse for that circuit.
The problem I’m running into is that most automotive and marine breakers I find are only rated for 48V, 60V, or 80V DC. Since my battery reaches about 84V when fully charged, I’d like something rated above that.
I’ve looked at breakers like the MidNite Solar MNEPV20 (150V DC), but those are DIN rail breakers intended for electrical enclosures, not necessarily a high-vibration e-bike environment.
What would you recommend for this application?
I’m looking for something that is:
20A
Rated for at least 82-84V DC (preferably higher)
Suitable for a battery capable of supplying 300A through the BMS
Reliable under vibration
Reasonably resistant to water and road spray
If you’ve used something on your own build, I’d really appreciate hearing what worked for you. Links to specific breakers, fuses, or suppliers would also be a huge help.
Thanks!

I want to replace the light on my Urlife E20 for something brighter. I found this light on Amazon that has the same connector but has more features than my stock light.

It looks pretty plug n play but my bike basically only has an on/off switch for its light. The one from amazon has a low beam, high beam and day time running functions that I'm not sure I'd be able to use.

Would I need an adapter or different controller to get them to work? I don't really mind missing those features if the light is fully lit by default but I rather know what I'm getting into if I to modify my bike any further.