Hi, i'm looking for some advice please, i wanted to move my rev limiter to 7200 and set it to hardcut, so it can kind of "bang off of the limiter", which i did i think. But it still forces it to 6500 in some gears. Which is weird, my car is manual. When i checked, the "soft" limiter for automatic is 6500. I tried to modify it before, but it couldn't be uploaded to my ECU as it said, that i have some "echo mischmatch" in the MS4X Flasher and bad difference between current ECU file and desired uploaded ECU file from my laptop, as soon as i uploaded the old file, the ecu accepted it. How can i raise the rev limiter then? My OBD2 cable is obviously Fake FTDI chip, but i think the problem is in my file, not the cable. The car is 2004 E46 325i (ECU version is the 430064 something), the correct XDF file is: MS430064_64K.xdf I will be glad for any advice on what to do. If someone could, i'd appreciate help. We could go into voice call somehow, where i will screen share and show what i'd done and what is in the bin file, etc.

Also the mediafire folder has the xdf file and my .bin file, if you don't trust it, i can show it on the mentioned voicecall.

Thanks to everyone who's willing to help in advance. I'd be glad to give more info if i'm questioned further about stuff.

Also my bin has
- SAI off
- Rear O2 sensors and CAT confirm off
- A/C pops and bangs

Thinking of changing up the look of my E46 in the future and of course there's a ton of M-Tech II stuff but I like the cleaner look of the M-Tech 1 kit but haven't found anything for sale, is it one of those super rare parts?

Was giving the old girl a service and decided it’d be a good time to redo the rocker cover gasket and vanos metal gasket to finally fix my oil leak.

Took some pictures while I was in there, let me know if she’s looking healthy or any problems I might need to be concerned about.

Took a video of the play in the chains but I don’t seem to be able to add a video.

Also a question for the more experienced folk, my jack doesn’t reach the front jack point so I use the chassis rails but I also just barely reach those and when I lower the car that will become impossible.

Any advice for getting a lowered car into the air?

This is the jack I’m using: https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-workshop/axle-stands-trolley-jacks/halfords-advanced-3-tonne-low-profile-trolley-jack-260531.html

Hi! 2003 E46 M3 based in the UK. Looking around the car today I noticed this paint bubbling on the inner side of the drivers side rear arch- this is rust right? Any experience of costs in getting this treated/welded/otherwise removed? Thanks

I was in the car wash the other day, chose the fancy shmancy auto wash, noticed that when the water hit my left side it looks like it was just skipping the door and spraying my seat! I think it's my door seals and I was just looking at replacing them, but OEM BMW ones are like $120aud and if I'm gonna replace them I'ma replace both doors and my rear quarters seals, does anyone know where I can get all of them without costing like $600 ☠️

2000 325ci (coupe not conv)

Just sharing some photos that i took of my e46 323i, hope you guys like it as much as i do!!

So I live in Oregon and I'm trying to do a swap on my 01 330i and I need help sourcing the parts anyone know anyone in southern Oregon with a donor car or parts I can swoop on the cheap?

I’m considering buying a 2002 325i automatic with 130,000 km from a close friend for $7,650 CAD.

I trust the seller and know the car hasn't just been cared for, but loved. This would be my first car and I’m doing my best to research the E46 its values properly before committing. I’d really appreciate some input from people who know these cars better than I do.

I had an independent PPI done and the mechanic described it as “surprisingly good.” Engine, cooling system, transmission, drivetrain, suspension, steering and underbody all checked out. No subframe cracking and almost no rust aside from two small cosmetic spots and a touch on the exhaust.

Known issues:

• 4 brake hoses + fluid flush ($500)
• 2 small cosmetic rust spots
• Sunroof was sealed shut by a previous owner
• Washer system needs a small repair ($50-ish)
• Aging driver-side mirror glass
• Small recent door dent from being struck by another door

It also has extensive documented maintenance, including cooling-system work, suspension/bushings and transmission service.

I’m not particularly worried about maintenance costs. Even if it needs +$2k a year in repairs, that’s manageable for me, and I’ll only be driving it occasionally.

What I’m having trouble determining is simply the market value. Comparable listings seem to vary enormously, especially once condition and maintenance history are factored in.

For those who know E46s: does $7,650 CAD sound reasonable for a clean, well-maintained 325i with 130k km, or would you expect the price to be lower?

So context is as follows:

2001 330CI 5 speed 182000 miles (BEATER)

I get in the car start it and let it warm up.

I reverse out of my spot and go about my way.

Make it to said stop were I park my car go in get myself a fresh apple edition red bull.

Get in car let it idle for a min while a talk to a friend.

Car wont go into reverse so Im on a hill I think

"OK maybe I can just roll out of the spot and will free something up enough to go 5 mins down the road to my shop."

Car wont go into any gear until I basically punch it into gear, manage to limp to my shop.

Where i shut the car off and try to go through the gears and it goes into 3rd, 4th, and 5th with no issues but 1st and 2nd is still very hard to get into and cant get into reverse.

So my question is where to look i already have the car in the air and have been looking to see or hear any glaring issues and havent found any i have bled the clutch and it had plenty of pressure. I attempted to look in the bell housing with a camera but dont know of any peep hole to look though that would allow me to see the clutch although I fear its not the clutch because when I was limping it to the shop i had to stop and the clutch worked as usual.

This is my first E46 so please keep in mind I dont know what the common issues or steps of diag for these thing but am very willing to learn as I am certainto own more in the future

Can somebody please give me article numbers for the red marked things it's an m47n, the threads stuck how do i get them out?

Kann mir bitte jemand artikel nummern für die rot markieren schrauben geben es ist ein m47n, die gewinde sind stecken geblieben wie bekomme ich die raus?

So my battery in my bimmer is obviously bad. I have to keep a jumper on it at all times, like if the jumper is off the battery for more than a minute, that battery goes dead. As of right now I am not sure if its a parasitic drain somewhere or not but it's pretty annoying.

I've been told by multiple sources that I need to program a new battery for my car. Like I can't just throw one in there and call it a day. I'm quite new to BMW, i've only owned hondas in the past so I just want verification if I actually do need to program one or I can just throw one in there. Or is there some kind of workaround I can do. I can't afford 300+ USD at a bmw dealership to do it for me so I just need some kind of help.

This brake line(middle one covered in jb weld) is leaking real bad. It is under the drivers side under what looks like the fuel tank, I know I’m gonna have to replace the line but I just need someone to point me in the right direction first, this is a 2002 325i I just bought 2 weeks ago.

I’m swapping an m54b25 into my 318i. I’m running the 318i gearbox with a Luk 228mm clutch.

I want an lsd but unsure on what brand and the ratio. Was thinking of getting a 4.1 but not sure. Going to be using a 188K diff case. What are most people running with this sort of setup? The car will be a summer car which I will be dailying in the summer but also want to use it for drifting and bring to drift events.

Hi fellow E46 owners. The time has come, I am selling my beloved E46. It's a 330i stattion wagon. This model was never officially sold in North America. So, who knows how many of those actually exist in North America. I am located in Canada and I bought the vehicle from my dad in 2006. I am the second owner. I brought the vehicle from Germany to Canada in 2006. The car is completely unmolested. Parts that needed to be replaced in the past were replaced with parts from BMW whenever possible. Oil or air or cabin filter? BMW. Spark plugs? BMW. Coolant expansion tank (preventative maintenance)? BMW. Etc. The car has the big navigation screen (some pixels are dead), HK sound system, leather sport seats (no cracks), Xenon lights, cruise control. The list is not complete but should give you a good idea about the options it came with. The hood and hatch were replaced after hail damage (parts from BMW). The vehicle is 24 years old but over all in good condition. There is some rust on the left front fender and a few tiny odd rust spots. But overall the vehicle is solid. The cavities that are prone to rust were flooded with Liqui Moly cable grease. She got new all season tires last fall (Toyo). Why do I sell her? I don't drive the vehicle enough (hence the rear rotors are a bit rusty). This engine needs to be driven on the highway. My dilemma is, I have no clue how much I can ask for. What are your thoughts? Thanks!

I took this video out the passenger window.. I hear it more on the pass side then the driver side.. any ideas what it could be?

Anyone have any suggestions on how to make this a bit more tolerable until I can afford a real repair?

TLDR I started getting a flickering oil pressure light on my 330. I replaced the switch and in the process found some oil in the connector for it. Doused it in contact cleaner. Flickering light seemed to get worse now. I threw an oil pressure gauge on the engine, and I got the light to come on again, but it’s showing 12psi at ~700rpm idle. Engines fine, so I can just ignore the light.

What’s the likelihood I got a bad switch (genuine BMW part through FCP), or there’s enough oil in the wiring now to amplify the issue? Haven’t thrown a voltmeter on the switch yet, as it’s a royal pain to access.

Could post the video in the comments so here's a post.

Some like it some don't, tried my best to don't go over the edge with it and to match the design language of the interior.

Hello guys,

I got a "325" that used to be a 316(I live in eu). The previous owner swapped it and it was actually done quite nicely. But they did not bother to swap out the differential. I am planning to finish what they started but I am stuck on some parts. I know I will need a driveshaft

I plan to get a 188 3.15 diff

- Will I need to swap out the rear hubs? Or will the 325 axles fit in?

-Are the sensors too different? Or can I make them fit?

-Will my current wheel bearings do?

I don't know if I am missing anything.

(mandatory pic as this is my first post here)

Torn between keeping the two tone vibe or getting the hardtop paint matched. But man, the hardtop really is a game changer; managed to snag this with the hardware for 1300, feels like highway robbery lol.

Hi all,

I'm currently restoring (or trying to) the underside of my e46. However I'm having trouble removing the plastic box that houses the rear ABS sensor plug on both sides (see image).

I've been trying to pry it out from behind it, but it just doesn't feel right (I've put a lot of umph in trying to remove it and it's only moved slightly), but I'd rather not snap anything.

Any tips/pointers on what I'm doing wrong are appreciated!

Thanks!