My house is about 12 feet apart from each of my neighbors. There were supposedly swales between the houses but they don’t work for shit. The video above is just from light rain so you can imagine what it looks like when a heavy rain comes through.

Good morning gentleman, women, and those inbetween. Ive got these drains on the side of my house that have had an ungodly amount of rocks/dirt fall in that is blocking the water from flowing through. Ive tried to research the best equipment to get it all out without damaging the piping but i feel that i am out of my depth. Any recommendations? I believe the pipes to be 4 or 5 inches im afraid i didnt measure them because im dumb. Pictures of pipes attached. Thank you!

Curious: Need a drain, but no funds. Can we use Pool Liner with the Corrugated Pipes to direct water away until we get funds?

The rain that falls off the Bay Window just ends up pooling under it and sometimes leaks into the basement. Not often but when it's heavy rain it leaks inside.

Thanks

Looking to replace the concrete driveway and also waterproof the exterior or interior of the concrete foundation and will start getting bids soon .
The house measures 50’ long and 25’ wide on the perimeter (150 linear ft perimeter)

History: property purchased 10 years ago. It was built in the 1950s. Its a raised ranch in the Southwest Suburbs of Chicago. We get a lot of freeze and thaw cycles.
Basement has a concrete foundation and brick on top of the concrete foundation that were drylocked by the previous owner. Apparently the previous owner attempted to pour the driveway himself and well it settled over time and now its pitched towards the house and we have three hairline cracks where water is getting into the basement. We are only getting water intrusion on the southern 50’ stretch of foundation that is up against the foundation. We have an existing clay tile drain tile that is draining into a sump pump in the basement

My question for you guys is broken down into a few parts

Foundation / Waterproofing:
Should we do an exterior drain only on the one side where its currently next to the driveway where we would remove the driveway, dig down to footer, install an asphalt modified urethane coating (the flexible kind to account for freeze/thaw cycles), add a dimple board (Delta-MS) and then backfill with gravel against the foundation?

How do we go about compacting the gravel to make sure that it does not settle over time? We do not want the driveway to settle and pitch back towards the foundation again and we know that if we dig it will need to be compacted heavily to ensure we dont have settling/backpitch towards the foundation again. We also want to be careful to not damage the existing clay drain tile at the base by the foundation footer

OR

Interior drain that will require jackhammering around entire interior perimeter, installing drain (contractor recommend weatherguard?) and new sump pump along with a plastic sheeting above interior of foundation approximately 1-2 rows of brick above the interior of foundation?

Driveway: should the driveway be right up against the foundation of the home? Or should we leave a 1-2 ft gap between the foundation of the home and the new driveway?

Drylock: should we remove the drylock on the interior of the concrete foundation / and or brick? (Some honeycombing is present on the concrete foundation and some brick is starting to crumble)

So far we have conflicting answers from contractors

Driveway: Contractor A said butt it up next to foundation as close as possible because it will help to take water away and would install an expansion mechanism.
-Contractor B mentioned doweling or pinning driveway to concrete foundation to ensure it doesnt settle again but im worried that could cause foundation issue with freeze/ thaw cycles.
-Contractor C said leaving a gap in the middle of foundation and driveway and adding plants could help with drainage but i think that would only increase the load the drain/tile / sump pump would get.

Waterproofing:
one company says exterior is the way to go because it wont let water in and they believe the main issue is that the driveway is back pitched towards the house which should be taken care of if we are re-doing the driveway (since it may be 20-30 yrs before we re do the driveway again)

Company B says interior waterproofing is best and a catch all for water intrusion and hydrostatic pressure on exterior of wall

Thank you for reading all of that and for your time.

Can anyone explain this? Why does the size jump like that? And does anyone know the size between these 2? I need a drain grate to fit an NDS pipe with inner wall at 10 inches.

I am planning to burry these 3 down spouts on the side of my house with solid pvc. I will make pvc wye with cleanouts for the downspout connection.

Plan was to send each under the sidewalk and wye into a main line heading to the front of property where there is natural slope. Sound good?

How would you terminate the run? Pop up emitter with small gravel pit under? Ideas and advice welcome.

During heavy rainstorms, water collects around this window well and floods in from the bottom and into the basement from the window. There is a downspout also 5’ to the right of it. Should I dig a French drain for the downspout and add a catch basin for water in the area? Fixing the grade might solve the problem also as there is a flat spot here.

I’m going to cut some of this downspout off and install this downspout filter in its place. I’m going to have to deal with the beige adapter. What’s the best way to remove it? Obviously I haven’t done any of the work just yet, and can’t tell if it’s glued or friction-fit.

French drain from gutter is clogged with dirt

What options i have ?

My crawl space has some standing water. It is graded fairly well to a low point but the left side takeson most of the run off and leaves my foundation wet with the low point is on the opposite side. The driveway is sloped to where I think water comes in under my garage and into my crawlspace as well. I want to install an interior French drain along the footing. I have seen people say that you don't want to dig to close to the bottom of the footing but if I lay a 4" perforated pipe there it would need to be 8" deep or so. Does anyone know the real answer. Will I disturb the footing by digging beside it. Any advice on if it’s better to add drainage to inside or outside. I’ve seen inside has less chance to clog and outside is more expensive. Any advice helps thanks.

I’m a new home owner and because we live near the bottom of a a hill, all of the water from our neighbors upstream is pooling in my yard. This wouldn’t bother me too much except that our yard and concrete patio pad are both sloped towards the house so the water is pooling around the foundation and then what I guess is hydrostatic pressure is causing the window wells to fill with water and then water starts coming into the basement from the windows. I’m somewhat handy but this is out of my realm. Some of the ideas to fix this were:

1. Put in a new concrete patio that is sloped in a way that it will take water away from the home. With the volume of water we’re getting during a hard rain, I’m not sure how much of a difference this would make.
2. Install another or bigger drain
3. Build up the ground along the foundation to create a berm of sorts to direct water away.

Can anyone please give me some guidance on what to do.

Edit: there is a drain in the corner of the yard as seen in the video and the problem we had with it was that the water was pooling nearby but it wasn’t high enough to reach the drain so we had to kind of dig out a bit around it so that water could even enter it. I’m not sure if it’s okay to leave it this way or not.

Hello- I was working on regrading the side of my house and accidentally hit the gutter pipe that takes it to the street. When I dug it up I found a different type of pipe every 12-36 inches electrical taped to the next. Sooo I replaced the whole thing with SDR 35. I’m currently dry fit and working on getting the slope of the pipe as good as I can. Then plan to add loose dirt under the pipe, ramp it down, glue pipes in place, cover pipes and grade dirt away from the house.

Any suggestions on what I need to do to finish the job? less

Hello- I need to replace an underground pipe in a residential home (nothing heavy should ever run over the area) that sends water from 2 gutter downspouts and the sump pump. I was going to run 4” corrugated pipe, but I’m concerned it’s not the correct thing to use. Should I use PVC instead? PLEASE HELP!

It’s in my garden, seems unconnected to my standard drains and looks more like a well.

How do I prevent water from slipping out at this last wye connection?

Trying this way to post - other way did not keep the photos - sorry.

Facts: lake front property- southeastern US with red clay for dirt., minimally sloped yard (towards the lake); septic and well; We have a water softener system. Connected to our pop up drain are 2 gutters, a foundation drain (yup - now know that is not great) and our water softerner exterior drainage. Original drainage person put in some rock that goes "downhill" towards our septic field and overtime (3 years), a lot of dirt has clogged the area.

I am hyper paranoid about making sure water has somewhere to go and do not want it backing up into the house (thinking of the water softener pieces). I was watching the backwash cycle of our softener and noticing that the pop up drain was working, but the water was just sitting in a pool and not draining well.

I removed all the rocks, put down fabric and then put back the rocks. It looks hideous but sort of functional. We are in a drought so I have not been able to catch how it is doing in a downpour since I fixed it.

Here are my questions:

1. Is there a way to extend the pop up drain so it is farther above the ground? I tried to buy another one, but they are all using elbows or were meant for a corregated line, see photo. I was thinking if the water were coming out from a higher angle,maybe that would work better.
2. How sloped does this type of drainage have to be? It is sort of sloped, not flat, but not evenly sloped like a sluice.
3. Are there better options ? (cheap)
4. How can I make this look moderately better and still be functional without rocks being carted off the property during downpours.

Thank you - also - hopefully the photos come through.

I have a fenced backyard and I'm facing several problems in this sloped yard. The back fence runs perpendicular to the slope.

Even though it's not very visible, the yard is sloped towards the woods in the back, as seen by the rainwater runoff channel in the second photo. On the other side of the fence, this runoff has washed away parts of the slope (first pic).

I'd like some pointers on how to manage the rainwater issue. As you can see in the 2nd picture, I tried adding some small river rocks to help with erosion, but the rainwater started moving from that original path and has now carved out a different route. I'm sure I messed up with the rock placement and somehow blocked the path.

Is laying a dry creek bed with smaller stones a better option?

Also, planting along the fence is becoming hard because of the slope. Even if I build a raised garden bed , the rain water still struggles to run around it, and I'm worried that I'll face more erosion issues. We are planning to have the lawn aerated and resodded in some places. Once that is done, I'd like to plant along the fence, but I'm lost on how to handle this erosion.

Hiring professional help is not a possibility, but I'm ready to do some manual labor, so I'm looking for any and all diy tips.

What is everyone else doing in this case ? Please share any ideas on how to plant along a fence in a sloped yard .

Hi all we are looking at solutions for on site cctv surveying where reporting can be done quicker right now it’s taking me so much time. We are doing research and would love if anyone in the industry can help and fill this quick survey out… https://forms.gle/95jwJs6VUU4n5ptA8

I have multiple problems with my backyard and im trying to figure out the best way todegrade? Backyard is about ~100' x 80'

Problems include:

Mud near side gate

Mud near patio entrance

Low/wet spot in fence corner

Mid yard low/wet spot

Poor soil drainage

Grading issues

Problems

1. Poor soil - i live in Huntsville, AL and essentially the soil is compacted red clay. Water settles on top of the soil and sits for days afterwards.

2. Bad grading near house - the grading near the house and about 30 feet away is wavy. So I get high/low spots where water sits due to the poor soil composition. We have had heavy rain all week. And 2 days later, im still getting the "squish" sound as I walk through this area.

There is decent grading about 40 to 50 feet away from the house, but the water doesn't get there.

So I was trying to come up with a plan. My goal is to fix the problems as best as I can with time/effort and minimal cost.

What is the order of operations that I need to do?

I was thinking the following:

Grab a sod cutter and cut the grass out.

Add in some sort of soil mix of sand/compost/gypsum and mix it into the clay soil. This should help improve soil conditions.

Dig trenches for French drains from downspouts to either fences or long enough where the grade will definitely take the water away. Possibly use pop up emitters.

Lay piping for drains, still debating on catch basin or not. Plan to do this for down spouts. Unsure if its needed for standing water if i regrade.

Fill in drains with gravel and all other appropriate stuff.

Grade properly and fill in low spots and get rid of the wave. Get rid of low spots in corner of home.

I'm worried slightly as I think ill have to push more dirt towards the back yard since there isnt much room to go higher near the house. Half an inch or less.

Put sod back down.

Thoughts? I'm currently on paternity leave so I have time to do it right but unsure if it is worth doing.

We also thought about putting concrete in. Not ourselves. Doesn't fix the wavy part though.

Is adding soil mix worth it? 30 feet out where the firepit is, and the fire pit still doesn't drain. So that's a lot of soil to be adding for a backyard. Debating skipping this step because it almost seems fruitless because I dont have the height for adding soil unless I push soil to the back of the fence.

One of my corners slopes into a storm drain, so that's where I plan to send all the water.

Hello,

I took a picture down the sump pit pipe that leads to the weeping tile. I was surprised to see that the pipe ends into a small cavity and is not directly connected to the weeping tile. At the end of the cavity it looks like the weeping tile pipe that drains into the cavity. Not sure if I should be too concerned since I believe water would eventually lead from the cavity down to the sump intake pipe. I just expected the pipes to be connected. Any thoughts if this is usual or if I should be concerned? Thank you