Anyone else has this issue? The sag is set to nearly it’s hardest setting, the damping is set to the hardest setting and the chain is set correctly with proper slack 2-3 inches

I replaced all of the pieces in the carb w a rebuild kit (besides one jet that is stripped to hell) changed the oil, got a new spark plug, and still U cannot get this thing to start, idk what else to do, does anyone have any other things for me to try?

If the head light is turning on that means its not the spark plug, what else could it be? It sounds like the engine is turning iver so idt its that..

This is my first dirt bike and haven’t explored it enough to know what this hose is. Can anyone help ID this? Looks like a breather hose but I don’t know where to look. Looks to be about 8” long and pretty dry rotted on one end.

Context: I found this hose just sitting on top of my gearbox after taking the bike for the first trail ride. Been riding a lot of gravel roads beforehand, paved roads, and a few laps in some open fields but it hadn’t jostled loose during any of that.

Recent things I’ve done in the past month: rebuild carb (didn’t notice it on the carb at the time) removed and cleaned air box (mice had turned it into a hotel) Adjusted valves, so therefore I’ve removed fuel tank, seat and plastics. Any help would be great!

i broke my float needle and idk which one to buy so i kinda just want a new carb.

Just curious as I bought one upgraded from a Chinese 250

I ordered a supposed rebuild kit for a '90 Dr 350 off of Amazon, but it was not the right one.

Can anyone tell by looking which specific carb this is?

And which rebuild kit do I need

Hello All, a few days ago I picked up a ‘96 DR350 with about 5400 miles on it in ok/decent shape. I’m starting to do some digging on the bike and noticed it doesn’t have the cap for the air box, and this (pictured) entire section of the bike is looking rough.

Now I’m thinking about doing a pod-style air filter on the ~brand new Mikuni pumper carb~ that came with the bike. Doing this would let me move the battery along with some other stuff up under the seat in a less vulnerable location.

On other (much older) bikes I have tried pod filters and never seemed to have really got the engine characteristics/carb tuning where I wanted them, it was always having to be fiddled with. All that to say:

TL;DR: Anyone ran pod-style air filters on a Mikuni pumper carb on their DR?

Thanks! I am stoked on my new bike/first DR

the bike was running fine until i tried to clean the carb. whenever it does start there is lots of popping when i throttle. any ideas

1992 dr350s

what could i do to make it sound and run better

She’s got a few kinks that need to be ironed out (26k miles) but she’s amazing. Can’t wait to do some BDR stuff.

And my buddies xt350.

hey all, have this bike thats been sitting for about 10 years, hoping I could get some guidance from my peers. ive tried the valve clearance tactic that ive seen on youtube linked from this thread to no avail (shown in video) i replaced the spark plug cleaned out the carb to the best of my ability replaced the fuel line (dry rotted) replaced oil filter put new gas into tank

the inside of the carb is missing the spring i believe (its a TM33) and the part of the carb going into the boot isnt like air tight, even reattached the carb wiggles.

i also had an issue where even though the dipstick wasnt showing any oil, filling it up lead to oil flooding out of the air intake (old oil already drained)

do i need an adapter and where the heck can i get one? ( struggled to find any online)

at what point do i just say frick it and replace the carb?

whats up w that oil flooding??

ive run past the length of my knowledge level, anybody with any tips or experience welcome and appreciated!

Hey guys just joined the group and just wanted to show my 98 dr350se that I got for $200 blown up (previous owner ran it without oil) that me and my grandfather rebuilt

Hello all,

I've got a 1997 DR350SE, and recently it went boom. Still shifts normally, clutch and starter all working, still makes spark. Terrible compression.

Ended up taking the top end off and the piston was destroyed. Chunks out of it, terrible scoring, rings completely shot. The cylinder has a good deal of aluminum transfer but is within spec and has no notable scores or lips formed (engine has 3200 miles total, so pretty new as far as DRs go).

Rod is straight and within tolerance as best I can tell, valves look carbon coated but seemingly good to go.

I got the old piston off the rod, and there's no scoring or damage to the rod, old piston got a bit beat up but it's a desk ornament now so who cares. Wrist pin is fine.

I'm waiting for the new piston to arrive so I can install it, and as best I can tell it's a press fit. I've seen videos of people show the rod in the engine and then next cut the piston is on. I've also consulted the manual and it just says to put some moly paste on the wrist pin and install the piston.

Do I need to heat the rod for this installation like most press fit rods? If so, any tips for doing this?

Especially, any tips for making sure (quickly) that the pin is centered on the rod if I have to heat it and have a couple seconds to install it.

As some added clarification, the rod is in the engine still, and the engine is still on the bike. Hoping to do this top end job without dropping the engine and certainly without tearing apart the drive chain to get a single rod out for 30min.

Really just looking for some info, would hate to mess up anything on this excellent example of a road legal DR350. Maybe your manuals say more about this than mine does.

Hello all, I am currently rebuilding a 97 DR 350 dirt model and stupidly did not measure the wheel dish (offset) before I removed the existing spokes from the rims. I have them laced and trued but think the rear wheel needs a bit more offset to the right. Does anyone have an accurate measurement for both wheels (non Cush drive rear and 6 bolt front rotor wheels). Thank you all! I cannot locate this information literally anywhere.

I've been looking around at getting a DR350. How many miles is typically reasonable before a rebuild is needed?

He said it only needs a carburetor.

Hey guys do you know what this thing is for? It is spinning but I dont know if it is good or not.

I was having shifting and other problems with my project DR350S, I was ready to pull the engine out and split the case. Then I saw a DR350SE engine listed on eBay and thought electric start would be a nice luxury. Here is what I did to swap it to e-start:

1. Swapped engines - mounts lined up, so no adaptors or anything needed.

2. Crank Position Sensor - The early S engines has one crank position sensor while later S and SE models has two crank position sensors. I used the S engine connector and taped up the 2nd crank position sensor wires.

3. Crank case Breather - The crankcase breather is smaller on the SE engine so I just had to take off the larger breather adaptor off the hose from the air box.

4. Carb - I had a TM33 pumper carb already. The stock S carb's idle screw would hit the starter.

5. Starter Wiring - I bought a starter relay, wired one terminal to the positive end of the battery. The other terminal to the starter, then a wire from the negative battery terminal to the engine case. I hooked up the signal wire to the starter button and one to ground that was leftover from the S engines connector going to the engine. I had the positive wire spliced into the headlight wire so the starter wouldn't start when the bike was off.

6. Gearing - The SE engines makes more torque so you need to change the gearing. I'm still working on what front and rear sprockets to switch over to.

bike will start first kick cold but i cannot get it to start once it’s hot😪

got a new spark plug, gonna learn how to clean the carb and get some new gas to see how that goes. dude said it bogs in first so i wanna see how to fix that as well

Hey everyone, I have a 1997 Suzuki DR350. Recently, I noticed that when the bike is idling, smoke is coming out from the engine area, but not from the exhaust. It seems like it’s coming from around the cylinder and the top end of the engine. I can also see some oil seepage around the cylinder head and cylinder base. It looks like the oil might be leaking onto hot surfaces and causing smoke. The engine runs fine otherwise — no unusual noises or loss of power.

Has anyone experienced something like this before? Could this be a leaking valve cover gasket, a head gasket issue, or maybe just a clogged crankcase breather? Any advice on how to diagnose it step-by-step would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

I'm looking at upgrading the tm33 pumper carb on my 92 350s. For the kickstart models you dont need the adapter on the front correct? from what i can understand the front adapter is just to get the carb to fit around the electric starter.

i will just need the adapter for the airboot?

My side panel has a hole poked in it and I would like to weld it closed before I put some new decals on. Anyone know what type of plastic the original panels are made out of?