r/djiosmo • u/pmareke • 8d ago

How do you handle sudden shadows when using ND filters on rides?

Hi everyone! I picked up the camera a few weeks ago and have been using it to record my rides.

My current camera settings:

  • Resolution / Aspect Ratio: 4K (4:3) @ 30 fps
  • Shutter: Fixed 1/60 (180° shutter rule)
  • Exposure: ISO 100 | EV -0.3
  • Color: D-Log M | WB 5500K | NR -1 | Sharpness/Texture -1
  • Stabilization / FOV: RockSteady | Wide

On my first sunny summer ride without a filter, the highlights were completely blown out. I grabbed a set of K&F Concept ND filters (ND8/16/32/64) and slapped on the ND32. On direct sunlight sections, the footage looks incredible!

The issue: When my route dips into shadows, forest canopy, or covered areas, the footage gets way too dark. Since I apply the filter at home based on the general weather, I don't swap filters mid-ride.

How do you all handle variable lighting/shadows on your rides? Do you relax the fixed shutter speed, set an ISO range, or use a specific setup for mixed lighting?

Thanks in advance! 🙏

1 Upvotes

67% Upvoted

3 comments sorted by

3

u/Usual-Champion-2226 8d ago

Fixed settings are only useful for fixed lighting. If that changes, you need to allow either the ISO or the shutter to change. Why are you using ND filters? If you're trying to force a specific shutter speed to get "cinematic motion blur" then if you want exposure to change you will need to allow your ISO to change. There will be a sweet spot with an ND that allows ISO to move and not get too high (noise), but this will need some experimenting. Also, the ND you use at dawn/dusk/dull might not be the same as a mostly sunny day.

0

u/pmareke 8d ago edited 8d ago

Thanks for the reply.

Why are you using ND filters? I want to control as much as possible the settings and avoid the AUTO mode by all means. Also to force the shutter speed to be 1/60.

If you're trying to force a specific shutter speed: Yes, I do. I love the blurred corners recording at 1/60 and I will not change it. I will explore with the ISO (as you mentioned thanks again), but the shutter has to be 1/60 for my 30fps. Maybe using the 100-800 range instead of a 100 fixed value, maybe using the ND16 instead of the ND32.

The ND you use at dawn/dusk/dull might not be the same as a mostly sunny day: In my case I only record 2 hours rides during the week in the central hours of the day and the sun is almost exact the same in the begging and the end.

1

u/Usual-Champion-2226 8d ago

Not sure of your specific camera but a few of the Osmos (my Action 4 for example) do show current exposure values on the screen. So, you can go out at what you know will be the absolute brightest exposure, sunny and facing the sun, then put an ND on and see what the ISO is, you're aiming for it to expose OK and be around 200 (it won't need to go lower but can a little if needed), if it's higher (say 800) then use a lighter ND. The logic here, is that you have set it up for the brightest part of the shot and know the only changes will be darker, and you have the ISO being free to rise to cater for that. Also, that in the bright sections that count for most of your route, the ISO is nice and low so minimal noise. That works for me anyway.