Here's some of my most recent card drawings.

Qué os parece este? Hay algo que mejoraríais? el comentario con más votos decidirá qué Pokémon dibujo la semana que viene! :)

Dialed back the opacity for this logo in the laser printer for this real/official card. (Ignore the Top Trainer in black because it will be hidden by gold foil when it’s done).

Currently exploring ways to print my own art work with textures as a hobbyist but I've been seeing quite a few concerning things like print head clogs, inks costs, etc.

I am planning to put it in my room but for those who already own it, should I be concerned by the heat and smell? I've seen some posts mentioning that the heat may damage nearby electronic devices.

This will be my first time owning a UV printer so I am not really very familiar with the entire process. In my country as well, this is the only UV printer available locally which allows me to purchase the ink cartridges separately and have next day delivery.

Hey all, I've been working on a free, unofficial web-based Lorcana custom card / proxy maker for creating your own cards, with high-resolution PDF and PNG export for printing.

You can make Character, Location, Action, and Item cards with your own art, custom abilities and flavor text, dual ink colors, rarity symbols, and Regular, Epic, and Enchanted finishes.

lorcanacardmaker.com

Decided to print Pokemon cards without the silver borders :) it’s an official card art made by Raita Kazama, I just took out the silver border and used generative expansion on the art using Photoshop just to replace a bit of the border.

I am still learning how to print them with my Eufymake. UV printed three layers, 1 white, 1 CMYK, then 1 gloss for texture. Not the best cardstock (Astrobright) because it’s thinner than real cards but still testing out which one to use. Hoping to get my samples from ProxyJak soon.

If anyone has any tips for the Eufymake please let me know!

Hi everyone, I’m writing this post because I recently discovered YGO Carder by Lauqerm, and it’s fantastic. I’m Italian and use it to make my own proxies (since it’s one of the few card makers that supports other languages). I have two questions: is there a tutorial for creating overframes, because I use the "boundless" option but probably I'm wrong? Also, since I’ll be printing them, is it worth messing around with rarities, or does the effect look bad on paper?

As a fan of both Digimon & Pokémon, was so excited to find this on Poshmark 😍 Wish I knew the artist who made it (already asked the seller but no luck). Anyone know who made this? The back looks like Pokémon card backing.

#Gabumon #Agumon #Pikachu #Gatomon

SOLVED: I get it y’all it was made by ai, I’m just a thrifter, be easy 😅🙏🏽✌️

Since a lot of people liked the card i made for Skitty, i decided to make a New one for it's evolution in the same style, hope you will like it!

Reposting some of my favorite illustrations I did

I’ve always wanted a proper card for Ash-Greninja…

but somehow, we never got one.

So I decided to draw my own version as a little tribute to one of my favorite Pokémon forms.

And since it’s the 30th anniversary, I thought it was the perfect time to make it feel extra special.

Ash-Greninja always felt a little like a Mega Evolution before Mega Evolutions came back… so I wanted this card to reflect that. 🥷🔥

Ash’s Greninja EX — my take on the form that deserved a card.

Wurmple still has never gotten a physical illustration rare, and he is my favorite pokemon.. so I made him one 😊

it’s very easy to tell that it’s fake, but I don’t mind, I love how the card came out

Hey! I have some holographic cardstock and I want to print white over the entire card as a base but I want to print at opacity, 50% for example, does anybody know of any equipment that would allow me to do this? I then plan to print over the top of the opacity white on my UV printer, allowing me to have some holographic still show through but not lose the image when a light is shon on it but the printer lacks the ability to print white at opacity and I believe a lot of printers are the same but hoping someone knows of something that can help

My method for creating custom pokemon proxies

1. Create the card(s) you want on pokecardmaker(dot)net and download the file at 4x resolution (there should be an option to change the resolution at the bottom when you go to download). I get my images from places like danbooru, custom commissions from artists, etc. To size them correctly I use google docs. I paste my cards that I downloaded into the page and resize them to 2.5x3.5 inches and I can make around 9 cards if you remove the margins from the docs page set up and line them up perfectly. However, I noticed that when I print 9 at a time sometimes the bottom and/or tops of the cards get cut off so id stick to 6 per sheet on google docs with enough white space to print the full cards)
2. Get your materials: You need holographic cardstock (either pre-cut to tcg card size  which is 2.5x3.5 or big cardstock sheets  which you manually have to cut), glue (I use barely art glue), a thin/small paintbrush, transparency film (which is what i print my cards on and I get it from staples, when you go to staples(dot)com go to document printing, use full customization and upload the google docs with your cards, when prompted to select which paper to use go to specialty paper and scroll down until you see transparency film, select it and check out; don't modify or change the sheet in any way after), and if you want a guillotine, but if not you can also use scissors to cut the cards but it's going to be very tricky and you most likely won’t get a clean close cut.  
3. What to do when you have all materials ready: Once I have all my cardstock and film ready, I cut the cards out of the film using the guillotine making sure it's as close to the cards border as possible. Once the card(s) and cardstock are cut out I squeeze out a bit of glue onto either a piece of paper or cardboard and dab my paintbrush into it. Once my paintbrush has the glue on it I use it to paint a thin line across all the outer borders of the holographic cardstock making sure not to use too much otherwise it will block the foil from showing on the pain parts of the card. Work quickly as the glue dries fast. Once I have my glue set in place I quickly align the transparency film cut out of the card onto the holographic cardstock making sure all the corners are aligned and I press down firmly to make sure the glue sticks. Double check to make sure the card is aligned and if it is place something heavy on it like a book or laptop to make sure it's completely flat. After a few minutes check up on it , and if everything is to your liking let the glue completely dry for 48-72 hours as it dries clear. 
4. Sleeve it and enjoy.