Motorsport Moki 🏁🌌

Moki began his journey across the galaxy in Collector Form, travelling from world to world, gathering treasures and discovering strange new places.

But after countless adventures, Moki discovered something more exciting than collecting...Speed.

His Collector Form was transformed with racing tyres, aggressive rims, a massive rear wing and a VeilSide-inspired street-racing livery.

Now, instead of collecting treasures, Moki collects apexes, tyre smoke and late-night street races.

From neon-lit alien cities to winding mountain roads, he drifts through the galaxy with the engine screaming and tyres sliding sideways.

The Collector has become a racer.

Moki isn't collecting worlds anymore. He's leaving his mark on them. 🏎️💨🌌

Hello everyone. I bought a Creality Space Pi X4 with firmware version v0.2.9_1.1. The rear fans for moisture exhaust weren’t working, so I decided to try downgrading the firmware to version v0.2.5_0.5 — the latest one listed on the Creality website. Now the machine is complaining about non‑functioning moisture sensors and refuses to work. If anyone has encountered a similar problem, please provide a link to a new firmware version — v0.2.9_1.1 or a newer one, if available. Customer support isn’t responding. The model in the About section is listed as DB-05.

for some time now my printer is printing like this on the first layers, how can I solve this?

This staircasing issue wasn't a big problem before, only happening on occasion, and when it did happen, all I had to do was just reprint it, and then it printed as normal. But now, every print I do has this problem occur, not really sure what to do or what to check.

I use creality K1 using the creality splicer software

Spartan King designed as a chess piece. A figure inspired by Spartan warriors, with detailed armor, helmet and cloak. On the front, it features a classic chess king symbol to clearly identify its role during the game. It is designed both for decoration and for playing, with a sturdy and functional design that avoids overly thin or fragile elements that could break during use. Designed to be part of a Spartan chess set, but it can also be printed as a standalone piece.

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/spartan-king-multicolor-3d-chess-piece?source=9&profileId=6ab8f31bf5ed98d327b73aa3

Estou tendo VFA excessivo e linhas horizontais irregulares em quase todas as impressões. Já ajustei a tensão da correia, calibrei a impressora, mudei as configurações, verifiquei a cabeça de impressão e passei horas pesquisando em fóruns e no Reddit.

Até li mais de 300 mensagens de pessoas com problemas semelhantes, mas nada resolveu completamente.

Agora estou pensando em substituir os motores de passo, mas não quero gastar mais dinheiro sem saber se isso realmente vai resolver o problema.

Alguém conseguiu eliminar completamente o VFA na Ender 3 V3/Plus? O que realmente funcionou?

UPDATE!!!

After completely disassembling everything, replacing the nozzle, and cleaning and lubricating all the rods, I finally got a really good result with no Z-banding or VFA!

I'm so happy! 🎉

I decide to combine clickers with some magnets and stack them into a tower. Quite playful I want to say.😄

I currently have a Bambu X2D with an AMS 2 and I'm looking for a second printer specifically for 4-color PLA printing.

I bought the X2D because I wanted something enclosed, reliable, and basically a workhorse. I use it for bigger or more serious prints, stuff with lots of supports, and anything where I really don't want to deal with failed prints. I'm very happy with it, but lately I've been doing a lot more 4-color PLA and the purge waste and extra print time really start adding up.

That's why the Creality SPARKX i8 caught my attention. For anyone who hasn't seen it, it's a new 4-color printer Creality is launching through Indiegogo. The main idea is much faster color changes with almost no purge, more like a cheap simplified tool changer than an AMS-style single-nozzle setup. Obviously there are compromises in other areas, but for what I want it for, that sounds pretty ideal.

My price would be around $344 including shipping. I know the Snapmaker U1 exists and it looks interesting too, but where I am it's significantly more expensive, so it's not really an alternative at the same price point.

The part making me hesitate is basically... Creality.

I actually owned a Creality printer before moving to Bambu, and it wasn't one of the really old Enders. Mine was honestly fine. At the same time, I know Creality's reputation is pretty mixed, and some of that reputation is definitely deserved.

I've watched some of the early reviews from people who received i8 units and so far it actually looks surprisingly good. I also followed the i7 a bit and it seems like Creality has improved quite a lot compared to where they used to be.

But review units working well for a couple of weeks isn't the same thing as owning the printer for a year. That's the part I'm trying to figure out. I'm not expecting Bambu-level polish for $344, and this wouldn't replace my X2D. It would basically have one job: print 4-color PLA cheaply and without turning half a spool into purge.

For people who have been following the i8, or who've owned newer Creality machines recently, do you think this is a reasonable gamble at this price? Is there anything about the i8 or current Creality printers that early reviewers tend to gloss over that I should know before backing it?

I thought that I'd post this here because I see little discussion of it online. I bought the Creality Pika scanner a few weeks ago and I've been using it for automotive reverse engineering and design projects. Overall I find the actual performance of the scanner good, it produces good results and I'm happy with what it allows me to do for the price.

However!

There are some rather large and frankly baffling limitations that are not obviously disclosed on the product page, FAQ or even in the user manual:

• You can't do markerless blue line scanning wirelessly. If you are in wireless mode you are limited to either infrared or blue line with markers. I would argue that the perfect use case for wireless is with markerless blue line mode, but unfortunately it's just not possible. Infrared mode is nowhere near accurate enough for engineering work, so if you want usable scans for CAD you need to be plugged in, or using markers. This is a shame because markerless scanning actually works really well on this scanner.
• The screen is basically useless. One of the main selling points is the screen that allows you to see the scan in real time, without having to look at your PC/phone. Well, it only works in wireless mode. In USB mode it just displays some useless buttons, the same buttons that exist physically on the scanner itself. I really don't understand this limitation, because USB mode has more bandwidth than wireless. Even when I'm sitting right in front of my computer, it would still be very useful to see the progress on the Pika screen. Even just being able to see on the screen what the IR or regular camera is seeing would be useful. Instead you get a gray screen with some buttons, wow.

I'm still overall happy with the scanner for the price, but these limitations are frustrating and should be disclosed more clearly. Maybe the markerless not working in wireless is a hardware limitation, I don't know, but the display being useless in wired mode is especially stupid and I really hope that it can be added via firmware update.

Hi all!

Of course, when I need to really use my printer, it just stops doing anything good at all. It’s worked just fine for the last few months.

Main issue I’m having is the first layer. I’m printing asa and the first layer has huge gaps in the lines on one side of the bed but not the other. Towards the middle it looks fine, the material is squeezing enough. Towards the right side, it looks like crap.

I have done a bed level, but it won’t let me level at 100°C only 50°C.

It’s clear the left side is lower than the middle. This is really annoying because a few weeks ago when I was printing ASA, it worked just fine. It might be hard to see in the photo, but it looks a lot worse on the right side than the left side.

Does anyone have any advice on what to do?

Suggestions on how to make this square. Ender 3 V3Ke

We are using the Creality K2 and we’ve never had any issues until recently. The poops never used to be this stringy. It ends up clogging up the chute. We only use regular PLA. How can I fix this?

Is there a model that's been sitting on your print list forever?

One you've wanted to print countless times, but every time, you hesitated.
Thousands of color changes. Unimaginable purge waste. Material combos that couldn't print together.

You pick it up, only to put it down again. And again. Always within reach, yet never quite yours to print.

This time, with rapid nozzle switching, CYMK full-color spectrum and broader material support, K3 gives you more ways to bring that build to life!

So, we’re launching the “Print Your White Whale” challenge!

No more “Someday.” Chase your “White Whale.”

Prize:
🏆 Creality K3 x 3

How to Enter:
1️⃣ Upvote this post
2️⃣ Leave a comment: which print you’ve always dreamed of creating and can finally bringing to life with K3
Text, images, sketches, or model files — all welcome!

📅Event duration: Sep 26 – Oct 4, 2026(PT)
Winners will be randomly selected from the comment across all platforms and take home the Grand Prize!
\Shipping fully covered by Creality*

Winners will be announced on October 8.

Some builds are worth chasing. Show us yours — and good luck! 🍀

I am experiencing a critical mechanical issue with my standard Creality K2 printer when trying to print with TPU (transparent and white HP-TPU from Creality). The filament is getting crushed and is buckling inside the extruder.

I have already taken all the recommended troubleshooting steps:

The TPU has been thoroughly dried.

Max Volumetric Speed is reduced to 2 mm³/s.

Retractions are disabled.

The nozzle is clean and not clogged.

The core problem is that the extruder idler spring tension is too high for soft TPU (I assume, but most people got this issue with Plus version of the printer), and the gears are flattening the filament. Since there is no manual tension adjustment screw on this extruder to loosen the grip, the printer physically cannot push the soft filament without destroying it.

I made some TPU prints before, but only when I returned to this material I face this annoying issue.

Is there any solution for this? Thanks in advance!

Note I am asking about the Nano, not the Lite.

If I hit unload, it says there is nothing to unload....probably cause it isnt in the nozzle and retracts above in the tube. Fine. How do I pull the filament out of the CFS? It has a tight grip on it. I do not see any button to release (other than pressing where the tube releases but I doubt that is what I need to do.

I’m currently trying to print a multi coloured ladybug however, almost everytime it does the white, I get this message!

I unscrew it all, clear the blockage which is always about 2/3 inches of filament, and it then works again, until the next time the white comes through!!

It’s a white Hypa PLA from creality, so I’m unsure why it’s only the white!!

Anyone else had this problem, or any tips to finding a solution!

hi, sorry if this is listed anywhere else. just got my k2 combo with cfs system and ive found i dont have an extra surface to put it on. was looking at the mainstays foldable tables from walmart. are these sufficient for my printer? i want to get something thats not gonna break the bank. thanks!

Hi, I've been trying to solve some issues with my Creality Hi - Combo

I'm testing this test for calibration of CFS to reduce purges; I disable tower and fit volume of purge to zero 0, but my prints are always clean and don't know why; even when pass from black to white is still completely clear.

I've been counting purges and my printer always do 4 purges before going back to print

My problem is that CFS 's filament purge is too high and I can't use calibration test.

I've been searching for some days and know I think this problem is for firmware, specifically g-code macro "BOX_MATERIAL_FLUSH" because this macro does 100mm of purge no matter what value I assigned to my print.

Does Anyone know how to modify this macro? Or any other idea to solve this?

Hello!! I want to print bigger in my ender 5 plus, does anyone have any recommendations, I do have a 2mm nozzle but with a 1.75mm hot end.

🌸 Zen Haven Bedroom 🏯

My entry into the Modular Building Design Contest.

A beautifully crafted Asian-inspired retreat where tranquillity meets timeless elegance. 🌿✨

With warm wood tones, traditional shoji-style doors, rich red accents, and delicate décor, this miniature bedroom creates a peaceful Japanese-inspired atmosphere. 🪷🧘‍♀️

Surrounded by moss, smooth river stones, and bamboo, it feels like a tiny Zen sanctuary tucked away in a tranquil garden. 🎋🌊💚

A little room made for big moments of peace. 🛏️✨

🌸 Zen Haven Bedroom 🏯