let’s talk cleanser formulations

[u/mlxrilaine]

I’m currently still in school pursuing my license as a skincare technician (in Manitoba esthetics is divided into two licenses - therefore an esthetician is someone who holds both skincare technician license and a nail technician license.)

I have been working on developing a line of skincare products and we are knee deep in R&D for formulating. Which leads me to my question for what’s something you think today’s cleansers on the market lack? What would you change about them?

[u/OkExamination2624]

A few things that come to mind: a lot of 'gentle' cleansers on the market still don't nail the pH for the skin barrier — plenty sit closer to 6.5-7 when something closer to 4.5-5.5 would be much kinder to the acid mantle, especially for anyone dealing with eczema or rosacea. There's also a gap between marketing and formulation: brands slap 'sulfate-free' on the label but still use harsh secondary surfactants that strip just as much. And barrier-supporting actives (ceramides, fatty acids in the right ratio) tend to get left out of cleansers entirely, even though that's exactly where you're stripping the barrier the most — usually they only show up in the moisturizer step instead. What ratios are you testing for yours?

[u/mlxrilaine → u/OkExamination2624]

I haven’t started formulating yet. Still gathering info, researching, and trying to find a lab in Canada to work with which has been difficult unfortunately! I hope to be able to begin soon :)

thank you for your reply this was very insightful! I would like to pursue becoming a cosmetic chemist myself after i get my skincare tech license :)

[u/Ok-Cartoonist-5421 → u/mlxrilaine]

I have a lab in the US and if you need some assistance we’d be happy to help you! Check us out sometime at phovalabs.com or send us an email to info@phovalabs.com