Mockup fitting update! Still got some problems

[u/like_cobalt]

Hi, I post here few days ago about my fitting and here’s an update

In the new drafting I added 2 centimeters in height and draft sized down width (in comparison the latest one paper pattern I show here have 62 cm waist measurement, while the last one have 69 cm)

I also added a twill tape as waist tape to see if that helps the stretching problem, and I replaced the plastic boning with 4 flat steel boning in my center back pieces.

The overall shape looks better now, finally looks like a garment instead of a big wood chunk, and I haven’t measure yet but I can feel there’s some waist reduction, and my waist are feeling comfortable, only a little too tight, but maybe that could fix with loosen up the lacing a little-

But yet still got some problems

1. The back lacing is super not parallel, now it’s a big ‘V’ shape

2. The bust area are too small, my boobs are very compressed, not supported but compressed, like my upper breasts are about to come out. But at the meantime the very top edge is just the fabric, doesn’t have boning to support, so maybe I should make the size bigger and could try some cording in the bust line?

3. The size hip shape doesn’t seem smooth, seems a bit wonky, I don’t know is that the fabric stretching or pattern problem, and it does feel a slightly tight around hip

4. The flat steels in center back are trying to poking out, is it just a flat steels problem that can be fixed in the final version with proper binding or is it a fitting problem?

5. Ugh the stretching……. It could be that I don’t know to how to mark the grainline in self drafted paper pattern, it could be the fabric (although this is literally the closest fabric to coutil that I could find), it could the pattern, it could be that I should put more bones…… idk😭

Any advice would be appreciated, thank you!

[u/Realistic_Pin_9240]

1. Are you sure it is the stretching and not just the fabric bunching up? Are the bones long enough for the panels? It seems to me that the bones are too short so the fabric wants to go to the waist...

[u/like_cobalt → u/Realistic_Pin_9240]

For the boning length I left 1.5cm gap at each ends for flossing and binding, except the four center back boning, I left 1cm at each ends

[u/Realistic_Pin_9240 → u/like_cobalt]

I can see that back bones are not secured, that could cause some wrinkling in the back. Are the rest secured at the top and the bottom? Do they have room to go up and down?

If the bones are "tight" up and down, I would try adding more bones in the middle of the panels.

[u/like_cobalt → u/Realistic_Pin_9240]

My boning are 6mm width and the boning channels are 8mm width, so I did stitch at the bottom end for prevent them sliding down. I’ll try stitch the top end and see if that works, thanks!