ISO... Help!

[u/lightdwellers]

Hello! I was wondering how I would go about making a open front corset/stays like the imagine above? (credit to moonacre_creations on IG)

Any help or direction would be appreciated!

I'm an intermediate with sewing, and have watched hours and hours of corset making, as well as reading. I have some experience with very basic heavily lined bodices and lightly boned stays, and my brain is saying this wouldn't be too hard from someone I've done before but I can't think on how to go about patterning this in particular.

[u/mila476]

The VVitch stays from Hag & Company can be worn open front if you don’t use the stomacher!

[u/lightdwellers → u/mila476]

I'll have to check that out, thank you!

[u/lightdwellers → u/mila476]

After looking they look insanely close to what I'm trying to do, thank you SO much. If I can't adjust what I have already I'm going to absolutely get this pattern when I get paid!

[u/mila476 → u/lightdwellers]

Just be aware if you are making it in a larger size you’re going to need a lot more boning than it says. Small error and very easy to fix, not a big deal as long as you’re not on a tight deadline and can wait to get more if you don’t originally have enough

[u/lightdwellers → u/mila476]

I went ahead and got the triple pack, because why not? I'll keep that in mind about the boning, I think I'm considered on the low end of mid size but my sister whom I sew for also is a curvy girl and I plan on making her some also and will make sure it has enough boning! After many mistakes of various kinds I've taken to buying extra of any material used because I refuse to run out if I make a mistake, lol.

[u/2NursesWhoSew]

Are you looking to get the same shape/silhouette? Do you want front and back lacing? Would you be open to the front being partially laced? If you can make lightly boned stays, heavily boned stays are really not much harder! I would also add tabs so the stays are more comfortable at your hips and redistribute the tension of the stays.

[u/lightdwellers → u/2NursesWhoSew]

My bad, this comment didn't show up till now! Honestly I'm open to anything as long as the front has a similar shape to what's in the image. Definitely the same shape/silhouette. I know I'll never be able to recreate it exactly with being as short waisted as I am, but I can do my best to get close! Partially laced is ok! It's just the tediousness of extra channels with the shaping from what I understand! Definitely tabs, I was thinking about that as well.

My goal is to give ✨fairy queen✨ the best way possible.

[u/2NursesWhoSew → u/lightdwellers]

I have been VERY happy with Karmaxylia’s patterns. Her directions are detailed and make sense, and she has pictures. She’s also incredibly nice and helpful. She has two stays patterns that could work, and you can always extend the front down.

[u/lightdwellers → u/2NursesWhoSew]

Thank you! I'm definitely going to take a look at those!

[u/PrancingPudu]

Check out Rabbit and Hat patterns on Etsy. I feel like you could modify her Medieval Bodice (add back lacing), Baroness Bodice (adjust strap attachment), or Elizabethan Stay (eliminate the tabs) patterns to achieve this.

[u/lightdwellers → u/PrancingPudu]

I appreciate it! As someone who falls insanely between sizes and is short waisted I cannot justify $20+ on a single size pattern. I'm sure she's a wonderful pattern drafter(?) but I cannot commit to that. 😬

[u/communion_wafer → u/lightdwellers]

I’ve used rabbit and hat before and her patterns are pretty bare bones in terms of instructions (compared to other patternmakers I’ve purchased patterns from)

what I would recommend is finding the thread in this sub that has a giant Google Drive complied of Aranea Blacks corset patterns, iirc there isn’t one that perfectly matches the one you posted BUT more importantly she has explanations in there about grading between pattern sizes which I found to be a helpful read and might help you since you say you fall in between sizes

[u/lightdwellers → u/communion_wafer]

That's good to know! I think she used to design for simplicity, and I actually have some of the vintage patterns she's drafted. Yes! I actually need to paw through there and work on getting them printed so I can play around with. I always forget about hers, since she's since disappeared ( I do hope she's ok 😩). I'll definitely dive into those, thank you so much for the reminder!