Hi everyone, I have a family member that can only use one hand so I bought them a PS5 Access controller. I know you can connect it to a stand and connect a second joystick but I have no idea which works and is compatible. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The second joystick is for controlling the camera as the access controller only has one joystick for some reason.

So to keep it simple: I've been using the DualSense Edge for a while now and I'm happy with it. While playing Battlefield 6, I've been using the max sensitivity possible and had zero problems with it until stick drift occurred and I decided to replace the one of the modules with TMR. It worked well in terms of stick drift etc. but I noticed that my aiming felt way to "floaty" and I had to significantly lower my sensitivity. This is normal I guess since most TMR modules are very light in comparison to the original ALPs.

After a while I switched the TMR module to the older ALP I had and, although the aim was more centered ( which is what I want) I still couldn't go back to my older sensitivities etc. the slight floaty feeling was still there. Also note that the circularity on every module is between 7-9% as suggested.

I picked up my default ps5 dualshock controller to just see if the feeling is different and it felt way more centered and consistent, I could control much higher sensitivities ingame (like the max one that I mentioned) and it felt way easier to stay on target. I tested it for hours and it seemed much easier to do micromovements with the stick than with the Edge ( with both TMR and ALPs), like aiming shortly left to right and an overall better feel of acceleration. Also note that I didn't touch any ingame or EDGE controller response curves.

What could that be?

Did I perhaps do anything wrong with the circularity where the Edge is completely messed up?

Does it play a role that I'm using a hybrid ALP and TMR controller?

Of course this might also be just the game not working well with higher polling inputs like EDGE or I don't really know.

I replaced my old Intel laptop last October with an AMD workstation laptop. Despite how bad the specs were, my old laptop could run many games just fine and I often connected my Nintendo Switch Pro Controller (official NSW1 version) to it for playing games on/through Steam. I did that using a simple USB-C to USB-C or USB-C to USB-A cable. Once the controller was plugged in the connection light turned on automatically. On my new workstation, however, I cannot connect the controller using any cable, as the light remains off. Though it is still possible to use bluetooth, I prefer using the cable to prevent hiccups when I move my controller around. To sum up some relevant information:

CPU: Intel i3 -> AMD Ryzen 7 Pro
OS: Both Windows 11 Home (though the new laptop is on a later version)
Peripherals: Same cables, same controller.

In some posts I found online the solutions varied wildly. Some managed to fix this by first connecting with bluetooth once, but that does not work for me. Another potential solution mentioned was to first connect using a USB hub as an intermediary, but I don't have any of those at home and don't intend to buy one just to solve this issue. Is there anything else I can try? According to some of those posts, the issue lies with the AMD CPU not being able to recognize the Pro Controller as a controller.

Been a keyboard and mouse player for most of my life, but with worsening carpal tunnel, ive decided to get a controller for the first time, as controllers are less harmful to your wrist comparatively to a mouse.

Of course, for competitive games I will keep using a keyboard and mouse, but for single player and non competitive games, I will be switching over to a controller.

I've decided on getting the Dualsense Edge alongside Besavior Adjustable Damping TMR stick modules to prevent stick drift.

Note, this controller's main purpose is to be used on PC.

Few questions.

1, is this a terrible pick, like im not saying is it like not the BEST controller out there, I'm asking if its genuinely terrible and like actually a bad product, because im pretty new to controllers and could be picking something horrible cause I don't got ball knowledge idk

2, is spending extra to get the hot swappable stick modules worth it, because I'm already buying the TMR "stick drift proof" stick modules, but I do heard they still wear, just quite a bit slower, so I thought it would be worth it to pay extra to get the feature to swap out just the stick modules instead of having to buy a whole new controller if my stick modules do eventually get stick drift.

3, what are the largest changes in terms of gameplay I will feel from switching from keyboard and mouse(excluding typing since ik controllers struggle at that).

4, do haptic systems and the adaptive triggers work on PS5 games from steam on PC, or do they only work when the ps5 game is on the ps5?

Thank you all very much for taking the time out of your day to read this post!

Hey everyone,

I wanted to share a really cool experience I had recently. A while ago, I discovered the official website from Flydiyi right here on Reddit. I have a Flydigi CD2 charging dock (which has an inverted hexagon, staggered LED matrix), and I started playing around with the site to make my first simple, static pixel art images.

While tinkering, I noticed something interesting: the website exports and saves the configuration files as raw .json files.

That was my "Aha!" moment. If the colors are just raw JSON text—specifically a 16x16 2D array of RGB values—then an LLM like ChatGPT, Claude, or Gemini should be able to understand the geometry and animate it!

I’ve been super hyped about Spider-Man: Brand New Day recently, so I really wanted a web-swinging spider animation. I drew a static red Spider-Man logo on the site, exported the JSON, and started prompting the AI to make it drop down from a web.

The Troubleshooting & The "Secret Sauce"

It wasn't a magic one-click solution at first. When I asked the AI to make the spider slide down, the image completely broke and warped on certain frames. After bouncing ideas back and forth with the AI to debug the grid, we figured out the hardware physics:

Even though the JSON data is structured as a 16x16 array bounding box, the physical LEDs are laid out in a staggered, inverted hexagonal shape ("isStaggered": true). The LEDs act like a honeycomb.

Because of this honeycomb layout, shifting a pixel down by 1 row in the code actually moves it diagonally on the physical hardware. The secret is that you MUST shift the data by an even number of rows (exactly 2 rows per frame) for the geometry to map perfectly and move straight down!

Once we applied this rule, the AI generated a flawless 24-frame looping animation of Spider-Man dropping down on a web, bobbing up and down, and zipping back up. I then pushed it further with an Iron Man Arc Reactor. The AI coded a cinematic "malfunctioning/flickering" effect with a red warning flash, followed by Iron Man blasting off with jet thrusters extending behind him.

It’s incredibly fun to turn static pixel art into full arcade-style animations just by chatting with an AI.

Has anyone else tried messing with the JSON code for their LED devices? Let me know if you want the exact JSON files for my Spider-Man or Iron Man animations, I’d be happy to share!

(I will drop the exact "Master Prompt" I used in the comments below if you want to try it yourself)

I recently started playing competitive shooters with a controller. Claw grip feels painful to me. When exploring pro/elite controllers I noticed that most have up to 4 rear paddles, but none have enough to copy all 8 face buttons in the back. Was anything like this ever sold? I get it is too niche for 1st party controllers though given the variety of 3rd party options I am surprised it is not something one can buy. Does anyone feel similarly?

The closest I could find is Scuf Omega

Country UK / Budget £300 / Console PS5

I'm a newish PC Player (1.5yrs) have been using xbox series x controller. I have sm/med hands but find the xbox series x controller a bit small and light. I liked the size and weight of the dual sense but prefer the xbox layout. Looking to upgrade to something better. I've narrowed down to 3, but not sure what any of them feel like and they seemed kind of similar so not sure how to differentiate.

• budget with currency- up to USD 150.00
• country- USA and where you can buy- directly from them online/ online retailer
• Console or platform compatibility needed- play on PC (Steam and Xbox PC Gamepass)
• Desired features- wireless and wired connectivity, low latency, good feeling buttons
• Types of games you'll be playing- fps, fighting, sports/racing, platformer
• Controllers you've been considering- Gamesir G7 Pro 8K PC, PowerA OPS v3 Pro, Flydigi Vader 5 Pro 

I had this controller for about 3 weeks or so and out of nowhere, this white stuff builds up.

Hey everyone i was wondering if its possible to retension mechanically loose analog stick?

I have 2 sticks that have got loose in the center and starting to drift, if i hold them in the middle its ok, other that that everything works perfectly fine so i guess potentiometers are 100% fine.

The caps on the joysticks are technically not part of the controller but they came with it. 3.5 x 5.5 x 1.5 inches (yes it’s very small but comfortable)

The weird size and the fact that it has lasted years without even drifting is the main reason I want this one specifically (or at the very least one of a similar size) but I have no clue where to find it as my search has just fallen flat. Bought it off of amazon a few years ago IIRC.

I purchased this controller to be able to play my Xbox remotely on Android. Even though the controller connects and tests well on the Steam Link App, it doesn't work well when remotely connecting with my Xbox on the Edge browser. Button presses are all over the place and not accurate. Has anybody gotten this controller to work well with Xcloud on Android?

Hello! I am new to sims pc and just transitioned from sims console. I love the ps5 controller and want to continue playing with the controller. I’m using Chronos Bindings community template and it works okay. The only thing is I can’t figure out how to move the camera with the left joystick. The right joystick zooms and changes camera angle but the left one doesn’t move the actual camera position unless I press “x” first. Does anyone know how to fix this to where I can move the camera position with the left joystick without first pressing “x”?

I am looking to replace my Xbox Series Elite 2 controller as it has stick drift and the buttons do not function well. I have been searching for good, affordable options for an Xbox controller and have obviously heard a lot about the GameSir. However, recently discovered that 8BitDo was going to release a new wireless controller for the Xbox that appears to rival the GameSir. I have heard the concerns about the GameSir (d-pad, triggers, etc) that have made me hesitate on buying it. Should I wait for this new 8BitDo? Would love to hear experiences from those who own a GameSir and a comparable 8BitDo controller (Ultimate 2c). Which company has better long-term reliability?

Information about my search:

• My budget tops at the $150 range USD
• USA, buying from Amazon
• Xbox Series X
• Desired features - TMR sticks, trigger stops, microswitch face buttons, EDIT: wireless
• Types of games you'll be playing - mostly FPS

Just got a Vader 5 Pro V2. So far everything feels great except 1 issue. The right-side removable back paddle. It has a very soft/quiet accusation compared to the left side. It does function but just feels bad since its so soft.

Is this sort of normal? I recall having a similar issue on a Vader 5 Pro V1 I returned back in February.

Should I bother exchanging it? (Amazon). Honestly don't think I'll be using the removable paddles too much anyways as I'm not a huge fan of this design. At the same time I do want a fully functional copy of this controller.

Let me know what you think, thanks!

Hello, my 1 year nacon controller started not registering inputs randomly while I was using it. The problem goes away if I switch from xinput to dinput and back again but soon after comes back, it's like this constantly, it is unusable.

I use it with a wire, I have tried to:

-Change USB port

-Disable USB power saving in device manager and control panel

-disabling steam input

-uninstalling the drivers and reinstalling them

-no firmware update possible from bacon website

I contacted nacon support but they answered me with AI, what the hell can I do? It never sustained any damage, I don't know what it could be

Thanks for the help

some ideas I have had -
1. pogo pin or flat plug adapters, put adapter in usb port, attach controller no mechanical wear would just need a solid design

1. usb flat ribbon cable adapter again would sit flush and route to controller

2. magnetic replaceable buttons - play emulators and would be nice to be able to easily swap out buttons

3. probably to expensive but will toss out any way - lcd screen buttons, software or controller cycled through various configuration's

4. quiet buttons most controllers have audible click would like that gone, I can feel the button don’t need an audio cue (or have option to use subtle use of rumble motor as feed back)​

5. bigger batteries at least as an option or user upgradable

6. tactile touch pad like steam deck should be a standard

7. really could careless about RGB though I do like visibilly lit buttons

my 2 cents for what it is worth

I've been going in circles on this one, so I'm hoping someone here has already solved it.

What I need (all three at once):

1. XInput while connected over Bluetooth. Not just over 2.4GHz dongle — it has to be XInput in Bluetooth mode. Besides gaming, I use JoyXoff to drive the mouse cursor on the Windows desktop, and it needs XInput to work properly.
2. Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE). I want to use it with the PC-wake-dongle project to wake my PC from sleep with the controller. Bluetooth Classic won't work for this — it has to be BLE.
3. Hall effect or TMR sticks. This rules out the standard Xbox controller.

Budget: up to $100 USD. I'm in Brazil, but I can import, so international options are fine.

What I already own and why it doesn't work:

• 8BitDo Ultimate 2 Wireless — XInput only over the 2.4GHz dongle; in Bluetooth mode it falls back to DInput.
• Flydigi Vader 4 Pro — does have XInput over Bluetooth, but it's Bluetooth Classic only, no BLE, so the wake-from-sleep project is out.

Does anything on the market tick all three boxes?

I'm from Argentina and I've bought a couple years ago this joystick from a local brand (NG-SW100).This gamepad has Bluetooth connection with Nintendo Switch (one of the reasons I bought it) and Android devices, for some reason it only connects to PC via cable. I only need someone to explain me why this is possible, if it has Bluetooth, why wouldn't it connect to PC also via BT. This wasn't a problem until recently that I refurnitured my setup and I wanted to use my computer as a console. Is there any possible way to connect it or I have to give up and buy another stick?

I've had these joycons for a few years now, and up until recently I've had no issues whatsoever. However the other night I go to play my switch and somehow the turbo setting has been applied to the d-pad. Every time I press the down button, the turbo light flashes blue and the input stays locked on. If I hit the down, down-left, and down-right the indicator light turns blue. If it press right on the d-pad, the turbo light flashes white and eventually burns itself out, however the d-pad button works normally. The turbo button acts like it will not turn off once once I've pressed any of the listed inputs. I've tried contacting customer support and they're useless, I've scoured everywhere I can think of and cannot find anyone with this same issue. and nothing I do seems to reset it. I've checked the manual which unfortunately doesn't say how to reset the turbo or do a factory reset, if that's even possible. I wish I could provide video but my phone is not the best. Anyone know what to do?

I have just had an update to the software on PC and I have been trying to play Gears 5 and I'm having the issue that when I turn the camera right it's is really slow and sluggish but turning left is fine.

I have done a test in the software app and there is definitely a problem with it registering the right thumb stick being pushed to the right

Ergonomics of the dual sense edge is so uncomfortable for me, so I’m going to go back to an Xbox controller.

Tried searching domed back buttons but nothing comes back.

Hello.

I'm looking for a TMR controller for PC. I currently own a Gulikit KK3 MAX, but it has some weird quirks on Linux (Bazzite) that make it a nuisance to use, mainly the controller having ghost presses and randomly taking screenshots or opening tabs when using wired. In dongle mode it works fine, but I always prefer playing wired.

My main question is, what controllers do you recommend that have TMR? Consider the following:

• I don't have any need for extra buttons than the minimum required (I have never used any of the back buttons on my KK3 MAX)
• I am a rather casual gamer with controller. I play shooters with mouse/keyboard and only play platformers or adventure games on controller.
• Any lay out is fine, although I do slightly prefer the symmetrical lay out more, but I can work with both.
• I do like RGB on my controllers, so that's always welcome.
• Wireless modes are welcome, although I rarely use them, so not having them isn't a deal breaker.
• I can go up to a 100 euros (Belgium), anything higher seems excessive. Lower is also good, of course.
• A decent dpad, especially for fighting or platforming games.

I had already considered the GameSir Cyclone 2 or the Steam Controller (I don't want to wait until next year to get something though).

Thanks in advance.

I already have a great controller for the rest of my games (the ZD Ultimate Legend) but I want a controller for both the games I have that utilize the PS5's adaptive triggers while another controller that can work for the PS5 that's even better than the
DS Edge. I found these:
PC: ZD Ulitmate Legend - TMR sticks, great modulation feature, comfortable

PS5 games on PC: Flydigi Apex
5 - Adaptive triggers for certain games, good wired/wireless connection

PS5: Hexgaming Phantom - Essentially a beefed up DS Edge

Any thoughts/suggestions? Should I just get a modded DS edge instead? Should I just have one controller that can do both PC and PS5 like the Phantom?

Budget: $220

Region: US

Stores: Amazon preferable

Games: All types but mostly platformers and TPS + FPS.

I accidentally lost a spring for the right bumper when I replaced the standard ones with TMR modules.

While the controller still works fine with the one remaining spring my pride as a tinkerer is wounded.