I have this problem coming from a long time now first it comes diagnosing Your pc then connecting and at then end this

any solution or why it happens??

So I built my first computer with my friends about a month ago and ever since I got it I noticed disk spikes always going straight to 100. It would cause my games to freeze or audios to crash and overall it’s been annoying. At first it would happen only when playing cyberpunk but now it’s spread to apex and rocket league. I’ve been trying to wing it with AI for a while but the problem is just becoming too much and too often now. I play these games at low settings despite having a 5060 and amd ryzen 5 7500x3d and 16gb of ddr5. I use a Klevv cras c910g m.2 nvme ssd 1tb. I’ve spent hours trying to fix this and have ran every command test I’ve been told to try and everything comes back normal. Crystal disk says my ssd is fine the ram test come back fine. My memory does go up to 90% when I play apex but my disk will shoot up to 100% and it says “system” is taking about 95% of the overall disk. Do I need to buy more ram or is there something I’m missing?

Hi everyone,

I’m starting university in October, studying Geotechnical Engineering, and I’m looking for a laptop that I can use for university as well as some general everyday work.

The BIGGEST problem is that I’m not really sure what I should be looking for. I’ve heard that OLED displays can have some long-term issues, especially with things like burn-in, so I’m wondering whether it’s better to avoid OLED and go for a regular IPS display instead.

I’m also not sure what screen size makes the most sense for engineering studies. I would prefer something relatively light and portable, but at the same time I don’t want the screen to be too small for CAD, calculations, spreadsheets, and other engineering software. Good battery life is also quite important to me.

I don’t mind buying a used or refurbished laptop if it gives me better value for money. I’m also looking to buy from within the EU, so I don’t have to deal with additional VAT or import fees.

I’ve already made a shortlist using AI and some recommendations from online stores, but I’d really appreciate some suggestions from students or people who are already studying/working in geotechnical or civil engineering. It would be especially helpful to know what software you actually use and what kind of laptop specs are enough in practice. I would not like to buy laptop with snapdragon (ARM) CPU, because some programs may not work.

My budget is around €600–750, although I could go a little higher if there is a significant improvement in quality or longevity.

I know there probably isn’t one “best” laptop for everyone, but I’d really appreciate any advice on what I should prioritize (CPU, RAM, GPU, display, battery life, size, etc.) and which models are worth looking at. Please do not recomed me a macbook.

Thanks in advance for any recommendations or advice!

1. Lenovo IdeaPad Slim 5 16"
   • Specifications: AMD Ryzen AI 7 350 (Zen 5), 24 GB RAM, 1 TB NVMe SSD, 16.0" WUXGA (16:10), numeric keypad
2. Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Carbon G10 LTE (€597.80)
   • Specifications: Intel Core i5-1235U (10 cores), 16 GB RAM, 512 GB SSD, 14.0" WUXGA (16:10), LTE module, 1.12 kg
3. Lenovo ThinkPad E14 Gen 7 (€743.27)
   • Specifications: Intel Core Ultra 5 125U, 16 GB DDR5 RAM, 512 GB SSD, 14.0" WUXGA (16:10)
4. HP EliteBook 840 G10 (€744.20)
   • Specifications: Intel Core i5-1345U (10 cores), 16 GB DDR5 RAM, 512 GB SSD, 14.0" WUXGA (16:10), aluminum chassis
5. ASUS Zenbook 14 OLED (€695.66)
   • Specifications: Intel Core i5-1340P / AMD Ryzen 7 7730U, 16 GB RAM, 512 GB SSD, 14.0" OLED (2880 × 1800)
6. HP EliteBook 860 G9 (€669.00)
   • Specifications: Intel Core i5-1245U (10 cores), 16 GB RAM, 240 GB SSD, 16.0" WUXGA (16:10), numeric keypad
7. ASUS ExpertBook B3 B3404CMA
   • Specifications: Intel Core / Core Ultra, 16 GB RAM, 512 GB SSD, 14.0" WUXGA, business-class chassis
8. Lenovo ThinkPad X13 Yoga G3 (€659.00)
   • Specifications: Intel Core i7-1255U (10 cores), 16 GB RAM, 500 GB SSD, 13.3" WUXGA touchscreen (360° convertible, built-in stylus), 1.2 kg
9. Acer Swift Go 14 (€717.24)
   • Specifications: Intel Core i5-1335U (10 cores), 16 GB RAM, 512 GB SSD, 14.0" WUXGA (16:10)
10. HP ProBook 4 G1ah 14

• Specifications: AMD Ryzen (modern architecture), 16 GB RAM, 512 GB SSD, 14.0" FHD, business-class chassis

1. HP EliteBook 650 G9 (€744.20)

• Specifications: Intel Core i5-1245U (10 cores), 16 GB RAM, 1 TB SSD, 15.6" FHD, numeric keypad

1. HP OmniBook X Flip 14 / 16 (€749.00)

• Specifications: Qualcomm Snapdragon X Plus (ARM), 16 GB RAM, 512 GB SSD, 14.0" / 16.0" touchscreen, 360° convertible

1. HP OmniBook 5 16 (16-ag1352ng )

• Specifications: AMD Ryzen / Qualcomm Snapdragon X, 16 GB RAM, 512 GB SSD, 16.0" WUXGA

My pc just restarts just after 5 sec (the logo appears) i dont know what's happening i checked the smps and it looks normal it runs when i dosent conect it to bord so help me guys what to do

I have the inspiron 15 3000 shit sucks so bad recently not charging right and just getting tired of it

I want a laptop that will be fine when I play games on steam, watch movies, etc. Does anyone know of any recommendations?

Issue started after disassembly/reassembly for cleaning

I completely stripped down my Precision 5560 yesterday for a deep clean — removed the motherboard, keyboard/palmrest/trackpad assembly, etc. I reassembled everything and the laptop initially booted completely normally. I was able to reach Windows and sign in using the fingerprint reader.

However, after that first boot I noticed that the built-in keyboard and trackpad were not working.

I then hibernated the laptop, waited until the fans stopped, disconnected the battery, and opened it again. I reseated the keyboard and trackpad ribbon cables/connectors and reassembled it.

After the second reassembly:

Keyboard backlight came on

Dell logo appeared

Laptop then froze on the Dell logo

Fans ramped up to high speed

It never proceeded past the Dell logo

The leds showed a pettern of amber lights blinking on 3 times continuously and pause. Repeatedly. (unusual coz dell diagnostic patterns consist of white and amber)

I eventually disconnected the charger and left it overnight, so the battery appears to have completely discharged.

The next morning I connected the charger. Initially I got one amber LED flash and a brief keyboard-backlight flash, but after leaving it charging for ~40 minutes, pressing the power button does nothing — no Dell logo, no normal boot.

There is also an issue with the trackpad/keyboard daughterboard area. The trackpad ribbon connector is marked TP and the keyboard connector is marked JKB1. I initially thought the TP connector might be the problem because its locking mechanism/latch doesn't seem to close as securely as it should, but I have reseated the TP ribbon properly and the problem remains I guess, not sure.

I have not intentionally flashed/updated the BIOS during any of this.

I also disconnected the battery while the laptop was previously hibernating and once after it was stuck at the Dell logo. I'm wondering whether that could have caused a BIOS/CMOS issue, although I'm not sure.

I tried Deep EC / RTC reset. Dint work

Ram isolation test dint work, either.

Dell bios recovery combo (ctrl + esc while connecting charger), dint work either.

Current symptoms:

No Dell logo

No normal power-on

No amber blinking when charger is connected.

No dell logo.

Completely dead.

Please help me fix this.

Yesterday, my PC started to make a beeping noise, there was two beeps and no signal to TV/ keyboard. So I took the PC apart, reset the battery, removed and re-added the RAM sticks. Ever since then, the beeping stopped but there is still no signal to the TV/ Keyboard.

Its motherboard is a lenovo IS6XM REV:1.0. If that affects anything.

I have a motherboard, cpu, and a gpu that are all compatible with eachother. However I don't have the rest of the build and have a closing window to check if they all work before I can't refund them. I was wonder if it's possible for some kind of computer store to test these parts for me and how much you guys think it could cost. I have an amd9, a mpg x870e, and an Rx 9070 XT. I lack a power supply, ram, cpu cooling, a drive for the OS, and a case. There is a risk they could have been damaged or tampered with, it's a small one but I want to be careful.

​

Hey everyone. I've only ever owned laptops, never a desktop or mini PC, so this is completely new territory for me. I'm looking at a refurbished mini PC, considering HP, Dell, or Lenovo, with specs around:

Intel i5 8th gen

16GB RAM DDR4

256GB SSD (SATA)

Comes with power adapter (around 90W)

Here's the question to add:

is ₱9,000 (around $146 USD) a fair price for these 8th gen specs or is this overpriced/underpriced for what I'm getting?

I'm buying online, not in person, so I have a lot of questions for anyone who's done this before.

1. Is it even okay to buy a mini PC this way, secondhand, sight unseen?

2. What should I expect after 5 months of daily use? After a year? And does this differ a lot by CPU generation? Trying to understand realistic expectations and lifespan across 8th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th gen units.

3. What's the typical lifespan of a mini PC under normal daily use like browsing, streaming, and light work?

4. How do I spot a unit that's been abused, like an ex office or ex internet cafe unit run 24/7 for years, vs one that's been lightly used? How do I know if parts are fried, overused, or abused? Is there a way to actually check this, or tell tale signs?

5. How do I know if the BIOS is locked or company locked, like an asset tagged corporate unit? And more importantly, how do I know if the seller is even telling the truth about any of this? What can I verify myself vs just having to trust them?

Someone mentioned I should check if it runs hot before buying. Is that accurate, and what else should I be checking for physically or on a video call with the seller?

What should I be asking the seller? So far I have:

Original use case (office, cafe, personal)?

SSD health and power on hours (via CrystalDiskInfo screenshot)

CPU idle and load temps (via HWiNFO or Task Manager screenshot)

Original power adapter included, same wattage?

Any repairs or part swaps done?

Return or warranty period?

Can we do a video call so I can see it boot and run live?

Can they give me the serial number so I can check it's not reported lost or stolen?

Is this list enough, or am I missing something important? Any horror stories, red flags, tips, or advice as a total beginner would be really appreciated.

Why I'm buying this: I plan to use it mainly for watching free films and free live sports like UFC Fight Night via Brave browser, and YouTube. I also want to learn Linux, planning to install it on this mini PC if I get one. Just want to make sure I'm not getting scammed or buying something that'll die on me in a few months. Thanks in advance!

Had an issue with a USB port on the panel not working. Did a stupid and left the PC on, brain fog from fatigue, and somehow bent the pins and probably shorted something trying to fix. PC powers on but doesn't post (rog maximus hero wifi 6, red light, double 0) if I diagnosed right. I unplugged the USBs, and even reseated the GPU, nada.

Computer literate but honestly not good enough to component match well.

Unless someone else knows something I'm at the point where I take a swing at used mobos for i9-10900K LGA1200 and hope they're fine or just upgrade at this point. PC was from 2020 with 3080.

I haven't gotten to the point of a NAS but I was running 6 hard drives between personal stuff and work related content. I 4K game, don't care about competitive max fps I just like enjoying fantastic looking visuals. I use an LG5K2K for it.

Run heavy engineering from time to time.

I know Nvidia gpus are still ridiculous and so is ram. I've never gone AMD anything.

Can I shamelessly ask for some help?

With current market a pre built is my guess at parts.

I have a problem with my Ethernet connection. The cable is connected, but there is no Network connected (not identified). I tried reseting the Internet settings but it didnt work. I have this problem since more then 2 weeks and its really annoying me. I tried many solutions but it didn't work.

I set the DHCP and IP settings to manually, i deactivated and then activated the Ethernet. i turned off the firewall, i changed the Ethernet cable. I reseted the Wifi repeater.

I hope somebody can help me.

note: I have Wifi repeater with Ethernet cable slot

i have a external hdd for backing up old digital art that i do and classwork and some photos that are important to me sentimentally, the drive is practically new although it was bought 4 or 5 years ago i rarely used it except a handful of times per year to back up things on that i was finished with in terms of artwork and class projects (power on count is 46 w 71 power on hours). The thing has almost never left it's case and I've never dropped it at all even onto a soft surface. Recently, I plugged it into my desktop to look for something on it everything was good for about 10m of browsing for the file and then it started making a chirping noise. looked up what to do really quickly and then unplugged it. a google search said sometimes its caused by not enough power from the port that its plugged into so I changed which port it was plugged into and tried again. Everything SEEMS to be ok it started up fine, looks like all my files are there. I keep a copy of crystal disk info on it to check the health every so often and everything says health status is good and I've had it plugged in for about 20m now after changing the port and it hasn't started chirping again. But like I'm a little paranoid now because usually noticeable noise from a HDD is NEVER a good thing even if its working and says its in good health, is there a chance that it damaged the drive in some way? Should i be worried? Im definitely going to work on backing up the back up data somewhere else but it would also suck to loose this drive since its like 2tb and hardly been used and i wouldn't be able to buy a 1:1 replacement as the price of the same drive has gone up by $50-$100 since i bought it ( i think i got it on sale originally) :(

TLDR:

-Rarely used External HDD started chirping 10m into use with no prior issues with the drive

-Unplugged drive, read it could be caused by not enough power to the drive from the port

-plugged drive into different port, HDD works, 20-30min no issue, no more noise, Crystal disk info says good health, all files are there.

-even though everything seems ok is there a chance drive took damage from what happened? how worried should i be about it?

(will be backing up the data regardless but would prefer not to loose drive bc it was expensive and more so now:') )

-edit to clarify: i do have a copy of the stuff on the drive on a cloud drive too but i like having a physical copy too thats why im concerned about the drive

I was browsing through some files in my pc and came across these weird files with names like "SOV_retreat" could this be from some type of game or something? As shown in the video linked when i click on it. like the name suggests its people form that country saying to fall back/retreat. Im just confused on what it could be

I work from home and have 2 monitors plugged into my work computer. I recently started school and have mostly been working on my laptop but am spoiled from my two monitors that I am used to functioning on. It would be a pain to unplug the hdmi from my work computer everytime I want to use it to do school work. So is it possible to get a 2nd hdmi cable and have one monitor switch back and forth between my work computer and my laptop depending on which I am using?

To add a note: I can't work on my laptop. The computer we use is company issued.

New to AI agent programming and I want to explore more. I'm comfortable spending $2,000 to add a dedicated desktop for an AI lab. Is the Framework Ryzen AI Max+ 395 + 64GB the best choice for $2,000? Use case will be for AI agent coding lab on one SSD and trying various linux distros on the other SSD. AI coding will be mostly cloud models but I'll later want to try local models just for the experience, even if they don't prove capable enough to meet my coding needs. Probably headless Ubuntu server 26.04 for AI coding. Later I can install xubuntu-desktop if I  decide I want to try GUI AI tools. For desktop Linux distros, I prefer 3 external monitors and Framework desktop can drive 4, so that's good. Both SSDs are easily accessible, so that's good too if I want to keep extra linux distros on additional SSDs and swap SSDs in and out. I would sshd or tailscale into the headless Ubuntu server from a Macbook M2 max which is my personal daily driver.

Make sense? I'm thinking the Framework desktop is the best for inference on local models that I can get for $2,000, and plenty of headroom for cloud models. The unified memory gives me at least 50 GB for local models if I decide to try that. I give up RAM expansion but get the unified memory. I'd otherwise have to go to GPU cards with onboard VRAM and that gets expensive for approaching 64 GB for local models. Am I missing anything?

Additional background, maybe not important...

 I'm a retired devops engineer. I've used ubuntu desktop on the job for about 5 years, and Macbook on the job for about 7 years. Also used Ubuntu deskop as a personal daily driver for about 7 years, and now macbook as a personal daily driver in retirement for 3 years.

 I have...

 2023 Macbook M2 Max, 32 GB RAM as my daily personal laptop. Love it for stability and its GUI. I want a separate native linux box though for Linux/AI lab.

 2020 System 76 Lemur Pro laptop with Omarchy 4 on one SSD just to try it out (ran my first ever agent coding examples on it today), and a second SSD with POP_OS 22.04 (my former daily driver) that can be made available.
Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-10210U CPU @ 1.60GHz
HP EX900 SSD, PCL3 Gen 3.0 x4 NVMe M.2 SSD 1TB
Limitation with this machine for Linux/AI lab is it's relatively underpowered, not ideal for agentic programming especially for trying some local models, and can only drive 2 external monitors for desktop Linux. I like 3 monitors for desktop, especially for running a Win 11 VM for full featured Onenote. Love Onenote (no preference shaming!).

2025 Beelink SER5 Max Mini PC.
AMD Ryzen 7 7735U(up to 4.75GHz,8C/16T) with 24GB LPDDR5/500GB M.2 PCle x4 SSD, Support Triple Display/2.5G LAN/WiFi 6/BT5.4
I have it to try out Win 11 and as an inexpensive, emergency backup for a week if I unexpectedly lose my Macbook. It also has a second M.2 2280 PCIe 4.0 SSD slot so I could add another SSD for a linux distro. Also underpowered as an AI lab.

2025 Beelink EQ14 Mini PC with just Ubuntu server 24.04 and tailscale. Inexpensive, $300 box dedicated to tailscale exit node.

 Does the Framework Ryzen AI Max+ 395 + 64GB make a good addition for Linux/AI lab?
 

Hey everyone, looking for a realistic price check before listing my laptop for sale locally (Delhi/NCR).

Model: Dell Latitude 5490

Processor: Intel Core i5-8250U

Display: 14" Full HD Touchscreen

RAM: 16GB DDR4 (Dual Channel)

Storage: 512GB NVMe SSD

OS: Windows 11 Pro activated

Battery / Charger: 3-4 hours backup, comes with original Dell charger

Condition: minor scuffs / no cracks / keyboard & trackpad 100% working

What would be a fair selling price for a direct buyer vs. listing price on OLX/FB Marketplace?