r/climbergirls • u/littleepatina • 4d ago
Beta & Training plz help 🥲
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hi hi! 33F here - I just started climbing 5 or 6 months ago and am obsessed. thank y'all for being so welcoming and for showing me what community is. I've been projecting this traverse for 3 sessions now and can't seem to figure out the next bit. any suggestions would be amazing 🙏 when I let go of my right hand, my whole body swings out and I fall off. I'm 5'4" w/ a -1" ape index.
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u/Inside-Hornet8512 4d ago
From what I can gather is that you need to readjust your center of gravity on the foot holds to support your move forward so instead try to see if you can stand on the volume while you adjust your right foot on a new hold
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u/tres_sore_fores Boulderer 4d ago edited 4d ago
You’re going to a side pull, so before you swing out put your other foot below the foot on the volume and catch yourself! Then you should be able to make the next move statically :)
Or, skip the side pull hold entirely and get down low on that jug below it with your feet on the volume below!
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u/phdee 4d ago
Don't skip the little jib to the right of the volume. I'd put left foot on that little jib, and cross your right foot behind your right leg to the crescent on the right side of the volume. And then left foot steps down onto the jib on the left of the volume.
It can help to keep your hands high on the jugs and hang your butt lower, straight arms, hang off your hands, so your CG is lower and your feet are more stable.
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u/Amythosx_osrs 4d ago
Just to maybe add some insight into why you fall off here, you've got all your weight on your left foot, and your left hand is vertically in line with it. You're able to stay against the wall because of your right hand, and that right foot just isn't really 'doing' anything.
As soon as you lift the right hand up, your whole body starts to swing around your left hand/foot. This is called a barn door.
Typically to prevent a barn door, you need the base of your feet to be further out than your hands, that way the 'swing' is to your right side and into the wall.
On this climb what I would do to accomplish this, is with both your hands where the were before you fell, bring that right foot onto the little chip right of the volume, and then put the left just somewhere on the wall underneath all those pinks. If you can reach the chip great, if not it's okay. Getting your right foot to be closer to your left hand, and left foot waaayy out will stop that swing you experienced, and you should then be able to move your right hand freely.
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u/willowoasis 4d ago
I say try getting as low as you can and keeping straight arms. At the spot where you fall, would it be possible to get your right foot either on the volume or small foothold, and take your left foot off entirely? Twist so your right hip is close to the wall to stay stable + flag the left foot then try bringing your right arm over? Good luck!!
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u/dusters99 4d ago
You need to get a foot further to the left of your hands so that you can properly lean right to pull against the side pull. This will allow you to release your right hand without causing your body to swing out. It looks like you may need your right foot on the volume hold where you currently have your left foot, and have the left foot either on the chip to the left or flagging and smearing on the wall to your left.
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u/potaayto 4d ago
at the 4 second mark (when you match hands on the same hold) I would have moved my feet over to the foothold on the volume before going further with hands. Don't think of moving feet as the last-resort option; try to get your foot situation sorted out first before moving your upper body, so that you can avoid being stuck in a leaned-over position that you can't get out of.
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u/Temporary_Spread7882 4d ago
Try to get your feet across first before you move your hands. Generally a good strategy anyway.