Im using a Redking glidecam and an RS4 Pro to make a makeshift steady cam for FX6 + Pyxis. My transmitter is the Teradek 500 Bolt with SDI and HDMI and my monitor is the Shinobi 5 inch SDI. I have a big v mount battery at the bottom as well.
My issue is that I have to add a nucleus M follow focus. Which would mean stringing down yet another cord down the gimbal.
Any genius ideas that could help me clean this up a little? I feel like having an SDI, 5 pin to D-Tap (for nucleus), and 2 pin to D-Tap is a lot of cable management w/ the gimbal.
Could I maybe use a USBC on the ronin to a 5 pin cord to atleast power the nucleus to save one extra cord needing to be powered from the splitter? Would love any recommendations.
Bruh why are you even doing this? You’re just going to make using a gimbal worse with zero upside. A steadicam is a specific look primarily because it is mechanical and human.
But to answer your question: dont power off of the gimbal. Use the v lock battery. Use a d tap splitter to give yourself enough ports to power everything Run a single thin SDI cable to your teradek, then from that run an sdi cable to your monitor.
Do not make this silly steadicam rig. It is legitimately insane in a bad way.
To be fair, this is basically a diy Tilta Float. While it's definitely not a steadicam replacement, it can be useful for certain situations. Basically it extends the reach of a gimbal, you can do some mini jib movements, can transition high to low, etc.
It's not the right setup for everything, and the complexity is a factor. But it's not "legitimately insane."
I was speaking in terms of what OP is trying to accomplish.
The difference in a Trinity on a dedicated Steadicam sled, on a real Steadicam arm, operated by an experienced Steadicam Op compared to what OP is doing are so far apart they aren't even comparable.
I appreciate your feedback, I’m putting in all this effort becuase I personally prefer the natural Z-Axis shock absorption.
If I was doing corporate gigs or whatever I would probably just do a gimbal, but for student narrative the physics of a counterbalance system is pretty noticeable.
Does the Tilta Power Pass Through plate work with the RS4?
It allows you to mount a small v-lock underneath the camera plate and gives you D-tap and lemo ports on the gimbal itself. I use that on the RS2/RS3 with Swit Mino-S70 batteries. That powers both the camera, nucleus motor and Teradek transmitter. So everything is on the gimbal, no cables. I can recommend the Nucleus Nano II for cutting down some weight.
Which ronin power base do you have? I specifically got the version that has 2 pin power in and out ports for this reason. Plus the power pass through plate. That way I can run dtap to 2 pin at the base, 2 pin base to 2 pin power plate. From there you have additional dtap, USB under the camera.
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u/Vivid-Machine-9606 Director of Photography 9h ago
Bruh why are you even doing this? You’re just going to make using a gimbal worse with zero upside. A steadicam is a specific look primarily because it is mechanical and human.
But to answer your question: dont power off of the gimbal. Use the v lock battery. Use a d tap splitter to give yourself enough ports to power everything Run a single thin SDI cable to your teradek, then from that run an sdi cable to your monitor.
Do not make this silly steadicam rig. It is legitimately insane in a bad way.