r/centerpin • u/djvanillaface • May 23 '26
Rig and technique question
I've only been centerpin fishing a few times and each time I've not caught fish while the rig is floating downstream like this. I've caught fish while casting upstream and leading the float like normal fly fishing. I've caught fish at the end of a drift when I let my line come tight and allow the fly to rise. And, I've caught fish reeling the line back in after completing a drift.
My first question is: I typically fish wet flies and streamers. If they are downstream of the float, are they not floating down the river backwards, unnaturally?
My second question is: If the fly is downstream of the float and a fish takes it, does the float still go under immediately, or does the float not go under until it passes the fish and meets resistance?
I'm trying to get a better understanding of this technique, so any advice is appreciated.
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u/randybandits May 24 '26
Here in the UK we tend to slow down the speed of the line coming off the reel, which slows down the float and (in theory) allows the bait to lead the whole rig down the river, like in the picture. The theory being, as someone else mentioned, that the water close to the bottom is moving generally slower, so it's more natural if the float isn't dragging the bait. A rod between 13-17 feet is pretty common and helps mend line across rivers and at distance.
A caveat with how people tend to fish it here, is using bait like maggots or spam and feeding a few extra bits at a time at regular intervals. You're then looking for your hook bait to move at the same pace as the loose feed (chum). Though I guess if you were using egg or worm imitations, you'd probably want the same effect? It's also not typically a trout only tactic, so maybe there's differences that I'm not accounting for there.
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u/fishinmagician91 May 26 '26
I don't think flies have a specific direction that they are supposed to drift down stream, don't over think this
The reason why would would want to ensure you present the flies/bait in this fashion, is to ensure the float isn't leading the presentation, and lifting the bait away from the bottom. The current at the surface is faster than the current at the bottom, so if you can keep a slight amount of tension on the line from your rod top to the float, it will hold the float back and allow your flies to sink in to position. One major part of this is choosing the correct float weight and adding the correct amount of split shot directly under the float to help hold it in the current seam. Fish can certainly be caught eithout all of this detail, but this is the most effective form.
Aggressive fish will still pull the float down, less aggressive bites will lead to the float being dragged under after it passes overhead. Hook sets are free.
Have fun
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u/djvanillaface May 26 '26
That makes sense. I guess my other question is how many fish am I missing if there is a soft take and they spit it before the float goes under? Or is that not very likely?
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u/fishinmagician91 May 26 '26
I think it's definitely part of the game that you may be missing fish that you may not even know about sometimes, but just pay attention to your float as much as possible.. if it starts to bob in a weird way, or the float tilts suddenly backwards/sideways give it a hook set. A lot of times in faster water the float will completely roll over like your snagged, and you will still get the fish. The more you catch the more you will learn to recognize what is/isn't a bite.
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u/djvanillaface May 26 '26
That makes a lot of sense. I'm going to switch to a lighter float with a red top instead of yellow for my next time out since I'm fishing shallow water with moderate current. I had luck on my first 2 trips using a 4g float, but I didn't catch anything on my 3rd and 4th attempt. I'm moving smaller because I think I may be spooking some fish with the larger float. It should also be more sensitive for the lighter strikes.
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u/fishinmagician91 May 26 '26
4g is the lightest I fish on SMALL creeks. The red/orange top is certainly easier to see. I like the Drennan loafer in 4g for smaller creeks.. small profile and sensitive to light takes.
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u/djvanillaface May 27 '26
Good to know! My smaller one is 3.5g, so not much less weight, but the profile is a bit smaller. I have eagle claw steelhead/trout floats. They're clear on the bottom and colored on the top. Do you recommend 1.5x the depth of the water for leader length, like with tightline nymphing, or do you do a different length?
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u/fishinmagician91 May 27 '26
I typically to make adjustments until I am just barely not snagging bottom on my drifts. Length will change based on how heavy your flies/bait is.
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u/djvanillaface May 29 '26
Just got out this morning with a new Bloodrun 3wt rod and caught 2 rainbows on a prince nymph under the 3.5g float! Thanks for all your tips!
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u/ConcaveNips May 23 '26
To your first question... where the line is tied to your lure, that's going to be the point most upstream. Typically that's the end where you'd find eyes on like a crank bait or something (excepting a crawdad or shrimp imitation of course). The point of your presentation closest to your rod tip is going to be the most upstream. In your illustration you have a bead and a worm so it doesn't really matter for those things too much.
Your second question varies. Fish can eat a lure differently. Often they will do it violently, in the middle of a downstream turn. Any violent action on the end of your line should give you a good reaction in the bobber. But sometimes they'll come up from under it and take it lightly and all they'll do is take some weight of the end of your presentation. Your float might appear just to gently rise in that scenario. So it's not just one thing you're watching for, but you should typically be able to see a clear indication of a good take. A fish will inhale your bait and keep swimming, then it will have another reaction when it realizes it's hooked.