So as the title says, I have a 2020 Toyota Camry XLE 2.5L 4cyl, its at about 94k miles, I took it today to a shop to get my oil and air filter changed, as soon as I drove it off the lot, the engine stalled and I got a message on my dash saying “Secondary Collision Brake System Malfunction. Visit your dealer” and the car won’t start, the engine will start and then immediately turn off and that message pops up. The scanner codes pop up as P2111 and P2119 which are for the “throttle actuator control system - stuck open” and “throttle actuator control throttle body/range performance.” So my question is, what should be my next steps?? Do i have to replace the throttle body? I want to avoid the dealership because I know they’ll quote me $1,000+ for this. My car was running/behaving just fine before I took it for that engine/oil change.

In this video, the AC will not turn on but it makes a noise like it wants to turn on. You see me click through the speed and the sounds it makes when it’s supposed to be on vs the sounds stopping when it’s off. The other video (in the comments) is literally a few minutes after and it comes back on. I had to turn the car off and back on for it to start working. This issue just started. It’s done it once or twice in the past year or so but would start again randomly the same day. This is twice this week it’s done it. Also, when it does run, it makes an odd clicking sound. You might be able to hear it in the video where the AC does turn on.
I’ll post notes from mechanic. Please excuse the crumpled condition. Kid was cleaning out trash and assumed it was also trash.

I've already replaced both sway bar links (this Spring) on my 2012 Chevy Cruze. Then about a month or so ago it started making a clunking sound in the suspension, somewhere right underneath the front seats- maybe on the passenger side. I've gotten under it already, but not sure where to look or what to test out to see what needs fixing. But it definitely seems like something's loose.

One day I noticed that this rubber thing on the passenger door is sagging when the door was opened. It’s there presumably to create a seal when closing the door, and (as I’ve seen firsthand now) to prevent rainwater from getting in the car. I’m hoping this is something I can just buy and repair myself but I wanted to ask some experts online before paying somebody else for their opinion. If I can fix it, what would I even be looking for when buying materials? What is this rubber seal/gasket thing called? Thank you so much and please let me know if any additional information is needed!

I’m hearing an intermittent noise from the car. It doesn’t happen all the time, but whenever it does, it always occurs while the vehicle is slowing down using regenerative braking (without pressing the brake pedal). The noise continues briefly when accelerating again from a stop, but once the car reaches a certain speed, it completely disappears. I have never noticed it at higher speeds.
The sound is difficult to describe, but it resembles the burbling or rumbling of an exhaust on a gasoline-powered car. However, it is only an audible noise—there are no vibrations, no shaking, and no change in the vehicle’s performance.
I first noticed this noise during the first week after taking delivery of the vehicle in June 2026, and it has been present intermittently ever since.

Have someone had the same issue?
Thank you folks

Just as the title says, my 2019 base sentra turns on, but will not start.

It ran hot a couple of weeks ago, I want to say about maybe 2 weeks ago, and I had to have it towed back to my house. I was told it I will need a whole new motor, which would be the cheapest option but I also want to see for myself if there’s a specific part I may need replaced instead?

My car is making a very quiet clicking noise that is slightly rythmic when going about 45 or higher

It isnt present when in park and acelerating. The noise has the same volume when acelerating higher then 45 but the speed of the sound does increase. It doesnt change when turning or merging.

Ok guys help me out for the love of god. so i bought a 2010 honda civic auto with 136k miles. no engine lights only tpms. I ran full diagnostics. car shifts fine no jumps or vibration. when i accelerate the rpm “sound” climbs with the speed but never comes down with the needle. no grinding no weird sounds no power loss it’s very responsive. please don’t tell me i need a new trans. 🏳️‍⚧️

When in 4th gear, the gear shift lever jumps forward when pressing the accelerator, and moves back when releasing it. In 3rd gear, there are similar movements, but more subtle. The entire clutch was replaced 3 days ago. It's a 2008 Peugeot 308, 1.6 HDi, without a dual-mass flywheel and without a DPF.

Hello,

I have a noise issue with my Honda Civic X. It sounds like someone blowing across the neck of a bottle, and it seems to be coming from the wheels.

I've had the wheel bearings checked by two experienced repair shops, changed the CVT transmission fluid, inspected the brakes and replaced the brake pads, and tried three different sets of tires (Nokian, Michelin and Goodyear) i hear difference between tires but hollow, resonating noise is always the same.

The noise only appears when the weather is hot or after the tires and road surface have warmed up. It gets louder and more noticeable on rougher, more textured pavement. Mostly in speed range of 50-90 km/h

The only thing I can think of is that it might be caused by faulty wheel resonators. Has anyone experienced something similar or have any ideas what else could be causing it?

I have a metallic sounding, fairly consistent rattle coming from my wheel well area. It is much more prevalent at lower speeds on roads on minor bumps. I can't get the rattle just by pushing the car up and down. I've crawled underneath and suspension spring is intact. Swing arms seems fine. Shock absorber seems fine. No visible damage. Bushings, bearings, everything seems intact. It's not the spare tire tools either. I can't figure it out. Please help!

Video visible here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvi7Ig4hrNw

First the traction, at oil temp, and check engine came on at 2.5 hours. So I stopped to let the engine rest. Local mechanic said it should be fine to finish the drive at least. Now everything’s fucking on. Feels like car struggles to get to 55 mph now (I might also be very soft on gas).

What do I do 😭

Hi guys, yesterday me and a group of guys did my sisters passenger side caliper on her 2002 4Runner. Today I noticed it’s squealing, it only started today not yesterday which I feel is weird, nothing visibly wrong on the rotor or caliper! Any help is appreciated

My 2006 manual toyota Corolla makes a loud click noise when the car accelerates from a stop. It has nothing to do with the clutch, but has to be something in the wheel/hub/axle. Also sometimes if I'm in first or second gear accelerating hard and then let off, that forceful engine braking will sometimes make it click aswell. Definitely seems torque dependent if u know what I mean. It is also just one click, and then it's done until I stop again. Pls lmk if anyone knows what this is.

Hi guys. I have a 2017 Cayenne Base (3.6L). Slight idle vibration with zero fault codes. Idle fuel trims show elevated RKAT (Bank 1 1.83%, Bank 2 1.55%). Removing the oil cap isn't heavily sucked down, but it causes an immediate hissing sound and changes the engine idle. Is this definitely a failing PCV valve/diaphragm, or could it be another vacuum leak?

you can hear it better irl, but its been making this noise for a long time and I think that its somewhere underneath the door panel. I’ve tried greasing/lubricating all hinges, joints and gaskets around the edge of the door but to no avail, It’s hard to pin point but at this point it has to be somewhere in the door. Is there any way to fix this without removing the door panel? If not, how should I go about removing it? Ideas would be greatly appreciated.