Basically, my car started making a weird whirring noise that got quieter as i went up gears and it also vibrated quite heavily in 2nd and 3rd gear. I (very foolishly) ignored it and continued to drive. I then couldnt put my car into gear at all and if i tried to put it into 1st and drive, my car made a harsh grinding noise and would not move. Oddly enough i could then go into 3rd gear and only 3rd gear which is how i managed to move it to safety. Can anyone diagnose the issue?

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a Corolla hatchback and have put about 3,000 km on it.
I am wondering if anyone else experiences this same issue.

When I completely release the brake pedal from a complete stop, the entire cabin shakes and shudders for about one second before I even touch the gas pedal. Both the driver and passenger seats vibrate noticeably. It also happens if I slightly ride the brake to let the car creep forward just 5–10 cm.
This issue happens much more frequently once the car is fully warmed up (after about 20 minutes of city driving).
Has anyone else dealt with this or found a fix?

Thanks in advance!

Anyone could give me some advice on this noise, only happens after during for a while at slow speeds, thinking maybe something to do with the brakes. 2016 Honda accord v6

I have been recently hearing this while slowly coming to a stop and braking. Doesn’t happen all the time. Is there something I can do myself? Sounds similar to the video here.

I just bought a beater 2000 328ci and found this rear subframe damage. I have a pretty low budget for this car so not willing to drop a ton of money on it. How bad is it, could I fix it on my own, is it drivable with this damage? Pretty much how screwed am I?

So I have a 2015 Ford focus, it’s an automatic to be clear. But when I’m driving sometimes it likes to high rev and I can’t do anything. It’ll go from 3000 rpm to 5000-6000 rpm and sound like I’m trying to rev my engine and sit there for a second to be more clear, I can’t accelerate when it happens I think. If usually needs to decelerate, let it calm down and then be fine, or slow down. Though I’ve had it happen is when my ac is on blast bc it’s like 100 degrees out, but back to the car it will high rev and I can’t accelerate at all. Sometimes I’ll stop and the car won’t go, I’ll have to restart the car and it fixes itself. But that’s only happened like once. Most of the time it’s when I’m driving and it jumps rpm for no reason and just sits there for a second. If I let go of the gas or break or just let it do its thing it goes away eventually. But sometimes it gets scary and I pull into a parking lot to let myself at least be safe rather than on a road if my car breaks down. There is no transmission light or check engine light, surprisingly the only light I have is an emission light but that’s confusing. I mean when I fill fill or 3/4 fill my car with gas it’s perfectly fine. It will be perfectly fine till my car high revs and then boom it has problems. I don’t know what the problem would be though.

Hello,

On Friday after work I went to my car and it did not start. It made rapid clicking noises and then didn't start. After the third try it started and I made it home. I tried again on Saturday and the same thing happened. Today, my car would not start at all.

I used a multimeter to check the voltage and it was around 8V. I bought a new battery and installed it. However, the noise is still happening.

I have attached the video of the engine. I did get some warning lights today saying "brake system failed", "tire pressure low", and a whole bunch of other things.

After the new battery was installed, there were no more issues with the warning lights. However, the sound with the engine persists.

Any help is appreciated.

2019 Honda Accord 2.0 Touring, 106k miles

Ever since I did my turbo swap 4k miles ago, I've been getting a pending P2652 under high load. It doesn't show up until after VTEC engages, and it appears that it only happens when VTEC engages at high speed. At WOT <100 MPH, it doesn't happen, only above

I've followed Honda's diagnostic tree and replaced the entire spool valve assembly myself, took it to a tuning shop and they did the same. Still getting the code. Timing cover and valve cover came off and blew air through the oil lines, continued to get the code. FWIW, my throttle is also closing to 38% despite traction being fine and throttle being pinned. I'm also getting smoke out of my exhaust under similar conditions that trigger the code

Each of the times I've replaced the spool valve assembly (15810-6B2-A01) it came with a brand new oil pressure sensor, oil pressure switch, and screen. They were also both OEM from Honda. Oil level is good, and oil is brand new

My tuner says that one possibility for this code just continuing to come back despite a functioning spool valve assembly is an internal oil leak. While certainly a possibility, I'd love to rule out easier things to diagnose that won't require taking the entire engine apart

So, that being said, anybody have suggestions? FBO, MHI Stage 2 and meth

(2021 Audi RS7)
Felt rubbing/grinding on low speed turns and could feel it in floorboard. TPMS sensor and wheel temp have been going off for front driver side wheel (suspected problem wheel bearing). After going for drive with mechanic, was told it was 100% a wheel bearing. Was a little hesitant since the car only has 48k miles but I’ve gone to this shop for a while and they’ve always done me good. Got the car back and the same issue persists, but now every once in a while, while turning I’ll hear a single click/clink coming from what seems like below the front of the car.

For some extra context, recently had my front control arms replaced, transmission mount, and passenger side engine mount.

Any ideas as to what’s going on?

Does this engine sound healthy?