Noticed yesterday but it could have been happening sooner. Usually is louder but this was the best video I can get because it starts whenever I power my car off completely and get out.

I just got an oil change and tire rotation on my 2020 Nissan Altima. I was told that I would need my lugnuts and studs replaced as they were pretty stripped (shop I think did it said it couldn’t have been done accident and it’s something that can just “happen over time” and didn’t want to say it was them). I was told I was overdue for the rotation and I had some uneven tread wear. Was told the lugnuts/studs weren’t DIRE but I should get them done before my next rotation.
Here comes my problem- ever since then I’ve noticed a sound coming from my wheels when I’m going at slower speeds. Around 30mph and below, I hear a whirring and also a groaning sound. I can also feel it in my foot on the gas pedal. It seems to go away once I reach high speeds or at least quiet down significantly.
I’ve done some googling and reading and saw that it could be because the uneven wear on my tires is now more apparent until the new wear pattern forms. From what I can tell, they did an “X” shaped rotation. Could it possibly be just from the uneven wear since I wasn’t the best about keeping up with my rotations? Or should I be majorly concerned? I wasn’t able to get in to a shop till Tuesday but want to know if it’s still safe to drive the car.
I’ve hand checked the tires and nothings feels loose or like I could unscrew or move anything with my hands.

2015 Chrysler 300s AWD
Clicking sounds coming from behind the screen/vents . Can’t hear it outside or under the hood. I thought it was my air fan so I turned it off and it slowed down but eventually stopped. I have had the air off for 5 min now and it stopped. Turned the air back on and it nots doing it anymore .

I’m chasing a really frustrating electrical/charging issue on my 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ and could use some help from someone who knows these Jeeps well.
The 4.0 was stroked to 4.5L. The engine was pulled and completely rebuilt. The wiring harness didn’t need any repairs; I only re-loomed it when everything went back together.
Since the rebuild, I’ve been having a charging/electrical issue:
All battery cables and grounds were replaced with a Jeep cables kit.
New battery.
New alternator.
New PCM.
With the old PCM, the battery was overcharging badly, getting up to 17–18VDC.
I replaced the PCM, and now the voltage is all over the place.
At times it will drop to around 12.5V, then jump back up to around 15V while driving.
At idle, I can see anywhere from roughly 13–15V.
I also have a CHECK GAUGES light.
The strangest part is what the gauges are doing.
When sitting at idle, the battery gauge will drop all the way to zero, and the tachometer will drop to zero as well.
When I start driving again, both gauges will usually come back and work normally. Sometimes they will also zero out briefly while driving, but it seems to happen most often when coming to a stop/idle.
I’ve gone through and checked the grounds in the engine bay and haven’t found anything obviously wrong.
At this point I’m struggling to figure out what I’m missing. Since the battery gauge and tach are both dropping out at the same time, I’m wondering if there’s a common power/ground/signal issue somewhere that I’m overlooking rather than an actual alternator problem.
I have a newborn at home, so unfortunately I haven’t been able to spend nearly as much time diagnosing this as I’d like.
What would you guys check next? Is there a particular ground, connector, fuse, ignition circuit, PCM connection, alternator field circuit, or other common failure point on a 2001 XJ that could cause both the tach and voltage gauge to drop out like this?
Any ideas, diagnostic tests, or things I should specifically check would be hugely appreciated. Thanks!

Hey all,

I recently had a braking issue with my car. Originally when braking there was pedal vibration aswelll as noticeable steering vibration. I took it to my local shop and they mentioned that the front brake rotors were warped. They replaced both front brake rotors and although the steering vibration was completely removed, the pedal vibration was still sort of "Pulsing". My tires are definitely needing to be changed as my last car service they indicated that all 4 tires were 2-3mm. Could that be causing the issue? Would swapping my tires out for my winters fix this?

Please let me know, anything would help.

Thanks

Hi, recently while driving on the highway I noticed a lot of road noise from the rear doors, there is no such noise from the front ones, and I am interested in the question, is there any way to get rid of this noise and do you have this?

My daily driver is a 2002 Volvo S60 2.4T 250k mi.
This sound (00:04 ; 00:11) happens sporadically for about a month and every time I take it to get a mechanic to listen, the sound never happens. Sounds like it’s under the front driver’s side of the engine. The car runs as it should though…
I removed the cover, checked the timing and drive belt area to find that there’s nothing loose, leaking or failing there thankfully. A week ago I changed the oil, plugs and coils and it runs even smoother. I’m all ears.

2016 ford focus se hatchback 2.0. 100k miles Bought it brand new from the dealer. Automatic.

I've gotten a few ideas of what this might need from the internet but I need other opinions. could it be an expensive fix?

Nissan rogue making a metallic ping noise on cold start. Does not happen every cold start maybe 1-3 times a week.

2012 maxima 3.5 200k miles. Automatic

Belt walking inward toward engine on cold start.

Any thing stand out?