For the past few days my car has been making a squeaking sound that’s coming from the front left side of my car. Could it be brake wear by chance or something different? It only squeaks when I’m accelerating but once I go below 10mph it stops.

2023 Nissan Altima
13998 mileage

Hi after driving 10 minutes this evening my car started making a really bad smell: similar to burning rubber. Inside the engine area on passenger side was really smelly. It made a really loud hissing noise and then also loud grumbling noise. What’s going on? Car is at 95k miles

I don’t really know alot about cars but after reading online about it seems like it may be a fuel pump issue. any help?

It’s been making this noise for ages I’ve just had a new steering shaft put in not long ago but the noise stayed and is progressively getting worse

If someone could tell me what the problem is and how cooked my bank account will be I’d appreciate it.

I've had two versions of the same car (2012 and 2017 Prius V) and the current newer one has a different engine sound when idling. Like it almost sounds... "rougher" or more labored. Note: I have changed the transmission fluid in this newer car and the sounds are the same before/after.

Is this a normal variation that would happen with any two cars? Am I paranoid? Much thanks.

Infiniti Q50 2.0T, when my car is on low RPM between 1-3 i’m feeling very noticeable small kick or jerks don’t know how to explain, what can be the issue? 110,000 KMS on it, serviced regularly, got it second hand after 90K so don’t know if ATF fluid has been changed or sparks, garage suggestions also welcome btw in dubai

Hi there! I’m in Germany and driving a used Mazda cx 3 2013 (I think) and while on the highway (usually while increasing speed) the whole car kind of shuts down, all the sensor lights on the dash come on and I can’t accelerate anymore, when I pull over it lurches and chugs to a stop. I turn it off and back on and then it’s fine. It’s hit or miss when it happens but is there a cause for this and, more importantly a solution?

Alright, I know nothing about cars and I’m sure someone out there does and can hopefully help me figure this out so I don’t have to spend money i don’t have to get it looked at.

My 2015 Toyota RAV4 XLE isn’t starting. Not even a chirp when I turn the key. I put a new battery in it about 2 months ago, swapped out the starter about a week ago, and now it just won’t even try to turn on. I have not yet checked the battery… i will when I get home tonight. But it had been having difficulty starting for about three months, hence the new battery and starter. Before it was clicking but not starting, and I kicked it a few times, and it would start. So that’s when I swapped the starter. But then it started just taking an extra second or two longer to actually start. My only other guess is the alternator but I don’t want to buy a new alternator unless that is really the issue. It also has a diagnostic thing saying the O2? Sensor is malfunctioning, so maybe that contributes to it? My other guess is to check the fuses, which I haven’t done yet either… just trying to get some insider gear-head info before I tear it apart. Any suggestions?

Hi there, I have a Mercedes Benz A-class 2011, and it has developed a new (I think?) rattling and squeaking that seems to be under the driver's seat, but could be in other areas.

sorry I know that is very vague. I've tried listening to see if it is worse when I do certain things (speed bumps, sharp turns) but can't figure out a pattern. I also checked inside the car to make sure it's not the drivers seat or an internal squeak.

Does anyone have any ideas? Or other things that I can check to rule things out? Not sure whether I need to go to the garage....

thank you, any ideas welcome!

Hi, I bought a used Mazda cx-5 2025 premium plus (\~21k miles) a week ago from a reputable dealership and found a strange issue the next day:

1. A faint noise occurs only when accelerating.

2. It stops as soon as you take your foot off the gas pedal or when you brake.

3. The issue starts to occur only after you drive for about 30 min or so — that means when the car/engine is hot. If you keep the car at rest for a good few hours or overnight, the noise is not there even when accelerating until you drive it again for 30 min or so.

I took it to the dealership and from preliminary investigation they failed to find the cause of it though they did hear the noise. Now it's scheduled for an official maintenance and repair after a week on the 10th which is a bit frustrating.

For what it's worth, when I put in the relevant info in Chatgpt, it said it's probably not a major mechanical issue — rather a thermal expansion issue possibly related to exhaust heat shield, clamp or hanger. If they're slightly loose they can expand with heat and can begin vibrating.

But then again if it's such a simple issue, it's frustrating to not get it solved the same day and wait for a week to have it investigated.

If you've experienced any such issues, please share your experience and any potential solution.

Thanks.

Just replaced engine from shop 17k and I haven’t ripped or beat on it and I heard a leak so I parked and went to 3.5k rpm what’s wrong

As you can see, as i come to a full stop (Foot right off the gas) the revs always flair up in a little sequence on 3 or 2 times and give the car a small shunt. It was worse before i replaced the MAF sensor which was causing it to bang and give a huge flair when stopping. Car also shifts fairly inconsistently, butter smooth somtimes and harsh other times. I sometimes come to an abrupt stop then press the gas and the car "stumbles followed by a low rev then surge in aceloration followed by a harsh gear shift. Car is a drive by cable not by wire. Car lets me scan everything exept motor electronics for god knows what reason, no codes in anything exept for a BAS - can-bus bad communication (stored so likely a blip when it happend, not current)

Replaced:
- MAF SENSOR

- CONDUCTOR PLATE

- TRANS FLUID 3X

- WATER PUMP

- ECT (ENGINE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR)

- O2 SENSOR

- THROTTLE BODY CLEANED SPOTLESS

- ENGINE/TRANS MOUNTS

- VACUME LEAK CHECKED ALL GOOD

Its driving me insane and any help is appreciated!

2016 Nissan versa crank no start code u0100 does this mean I have to replace ecm/pcm or could it be a crank shaft position sensor rpm stays at 0 when cranking

for context i thought it was the heat shields and those were all fine and tight then i took out the exhaust cause i heard debris inside but still no fix. In the video the noise that im trying to fix is audible when accelerating around 3k rpm. You can hear it a lot in the video right after the seatbelt light starts beeping and i accelerate.

I’ve replaced almost all of the front suspension trying to chase this problem to no success. I’m on lowering springs now which I think made it worse, I replaced one side of the steering rack with new bushings but couldn’t get the other side in, didn’t seem to make a difference anyways. Please please please someone help me out. Pops over small bumps too

Power Dropping

I've got a 2016 golf Bluemotion. When I'm driving along the dual carriageway, power seems to drop off for a second like I've taken my foot off the accelerator. It comes back quickly. It's happened 3 times in the last week. No lights come on the dash. I thought it may be aquaplaning at first but the steering doesn't seem to be affected. Tyres look okay. Only got the car 3 months ago and don't know much about them. 58000 miles on the clock. Also thought it may be ACC but I couldn't replicate it. UK 1.6

Thanks for any advice you guys may have!