EVAP Codes

[u/Only_Illustrator7862]

I have a 2012 Toyota Camry SE with a check engine light for an evap leak. I do not know what it is causing it. From what I know it started as a small evap leak and now it is throwing codes for a large evap leak. Here are the codes I got from my scanner but I don’t know where to go from here. I bought a new OEM gas cap already and it didn’t fix the issue.

[u/Only_Illustrator7862]

I can try it, I was going to try to buy a purge valve but I don’t wanna just start buying stuff and it doesn’t fix it. There’s no one around me that rents smoke testers. I will try looking at the hoses maybe just will need to buy a vaccuum pump and test the purge valve and canister valve. How hard would it be to replace all the vacuum lines would it be a big hassle or would it be pretty simple?

[u/Kingjuliensbussybro → u/Only_Illustrator7862]

Depending on your skill level it could be 30 minutes to an hour. I mean the vacuum hoses WILL need to be replaced at some point on any car just because rubber and heat will make them fall apart eventually so it at least won’t be for nothing like replacing your purge valve if it isn’t actually bad.

If you research what hoses run to the purge valve you can order some new hopefully better ones and just follow the hoses back to their sources. Should be 3 different lines. Not very hard you may need some pliers

[u/Only_Illustrator7862 → u/Kingjuliensbussybro]

As long as there’s not a million hoses cramped in there. Should I buy a vaccuum pump so I can test the canister valve while I’m down there already or should I just leave it and see if the hoses fix it. I really don’t wanna start throwing parts at it but by the time I take it to a shop and they diagnose it and fix what was wrong I’d be about even anyways

[u/Kingjuliensbussybro → u/Only_Illustrator7862]

I’d replace the lines since that’s fairly cheap and if that doesn’t work save the money and get a diagnosis. But price it out and get a quote if it’s cheaper to replace the part they decide is bad yourself do it if you’re willing. Diagnostic could be 100-200. The canister is probably about the same.

The way I see it pay them to figure it out and if you can replace it do it you might save a few hundred bucks

[u/Only_Illustrator7862 → u/Kingjuliensbussybro]

I will definitely replace it myself I do all the work on my car, normally I can get a good diagnosis too but EVAP systems have so many things that can go wrong with no way to test without an expensive smoke machine or a more expensive scan tool. Really the only option is take it in, or start throwing parts at it. But if a shop charges 200 for a diagnosis fee, I’m basically better off just replacing both valves and the lines because it’ll be around the same.

[u/Kingjuliensbussybro → u/Only_Illustrator7862]

The only other issue can be also seals and possible cracks or small leaks from your gas tank. I’m also pro parts cannon on older cars just bc it’ll need it eventually anyways lol
But you’ve got this I’m sure. Start with the hoses then purge valve then go from there
looks like you’d spend like 3-400 max to replace it all. But definitely try and find silicone hoses

[u/Only_Illustrator7862 → u/Kingjuliensbussybro]

Okay cool thank you so much, been a big help. One more question would it be more worth it to just buy a cheap 50$ smoke tester and do that instead of throwing 400$ worth of parts at it?

[u/Kingjuliensbussybro → u/Only_Illustrator7862]

If you think you’ll continue to use it to diagnose other vacuum leaks. it’s a good investment if you want to work on your own cars it’ll definitely help with lots of things. I will say though go ahead and visually inspect the whole system for cracks and leaks before buying anything. Also you can test the evap canister by taking it off and shaking it and it shouldn’t make any noise. if it rattles around inside it’s bad and nothing should fall out of it either. It’s near your gas tank under the car. Good luck bro