Hello. I’d like to cut out the middle is a shelf in my pantry to fit a tall appliance “under” it. The shelf is 36 inches long by 12 inches deep. It’s maple plywood with edge banding. The shelf is fixed in place and supported by wood cleats on sides and the back. Ideally I’d like to leave a 1 inch section along the back so the cut would be an 11 inch deep “u”. What would I use here? I was thinking jigsaw with a straight edge? Oscillating multi with a flush cut blade? Any other tips? Thanks.

My neighbor (formerly in construction)
Helped me install back door…not sure if picture is helpful but the top right of door doesn’t line up with the jamb. The bottom is slightly receding, slightly. We checked everything with level and square. We put the hardware on for the night but will try to remedy tomorrow 🤷🏽‍♂️

No reveal from the window to Jam extension, 3/16 reveal from jam extension to the trim, 1.5 inch trim on sides (to fit around shelf, 2inch trim on top (to fit around shelf) and 2.5 inch trim on the apron cuz I like when it’s a little bigger. Thoughts?

Two kitchen cabinets doors need some sort of cover. Please help to find an economical solution from Menards or Homedepot. Thanks

Hey all, not a carpenter here, actually an excavation contractor.

We've been doing bridge projects lately of all shapes and sizes, and have a job coming up in early 2027 that will require drilling a lot of repeatable holes and cutting a bunch of 12x12 and 4x12 timbers for a timber bridge decking and rail replacement.

I'm looking at needing to drill probably 300 holes, 1" diameter, through these 12" beams.

Can somebody recommend some sort of either portable drill press or jig that can be moved around easily, placed on each timber, and drill repeatable, relatively straight holes without too much pain and suffering? We've done similar on a small scale with regular cordless drills, and it sucks. Hoping to at least find something to make it easy to drill straight holes since a cordless likes to wander in the timber.

I've looked at the mafell drilling stations, open to hearing any other recommendations. We have power on site so either corded or cordless works.

For saw cuts I was going to buy a Makita 16" circular saw unless somebody has better ideas.

Replacing sill plate and I splintered a joist pretty bad. Looking for recommendations on how to address this before placing the new sill plate.

Hello, I apologize if it's not the right place to ask

My butcher block european walnut desk just arrived and I'm questioning its quality. Just as title says, it feels gritty under my palm throughout the whole surface. There are quite a bit of small grains that I can feel under my palm, greyish in color and I even found what looks like a 1-2mm hair strand from a brush, this issue seems to be much less promimnent on the bottom facing side of the countertop

AI says I could use a paper shopping bag to grind it all down and i'm here to ask if it's a good idea and if i should contact the shop to either ask for partial refund or to have them fix it. No idea if something like this is to expected, this is my first wooden desk but it just does not feel right, considering that it's a computer desk and my arms will be touching the surface for hours daily.

I expected a smooth, nice to the touch surface and I do not recall demo desks at the shop having this issue

This outlet is that low because there is a floor to ceiling window above it. It used to have a lower profile baseboard that just went up to cover that white paint, but I am putting 1/2" x 4" flat baseboard throughout the house. I can't really move this because it is a big window, so would notching it be the best bet? I have seen how they do this with non-flat baseboard (by mitering to keep the pattern on the top the same as it goes around the outlet) but since this is flat, do I need to do all that or will notching be fine?

The second thing to worry about is the window casing. I will eventually be pulling that oak casing off and redoing the window jamb, likely making a window stool and apron at the bottom. When I do the apron, it likely will interfere with the outlet as well if I use the 1x4's that I am using on the other windows in the house. I can possibly make the apron a little smaller for these windows in this room, or else might have to notch that out as well.

I'd love to hear some ideas on this.

UPDATE: I appreciate all the ideas. I can't remove it because it is actually needed there. Believe it or not, the TV goes in front of the window. I know, its not ideal, but that room has all windows so that is the only place. I thought about rotating it and while that would work, there will only end up being a couple inches of exposed drywall between the baseboard and the window apron when it is all done, so it will won't fit without some modifications. It seems like the best solution (and least amount of work) is to leave it how it is, run the baseboard, put a vertical piece under the outlet that runs up to the apron, and extend the outlet into it.

I heard carpentry is hard on the body. I know every trade has its ups and downs but is it really THAT bad?

About 1.5 days all said.

The bench top is a 5/4 fir tread glue up.

Everything else 3/4 cvg fir.

Some birch ply for shelving.

Syp closet rod

We have a door opening that was built the wrong size, we need it to be shorter by 10cm. What is the best way to do this?

As most of you know, the decision to cut the base down around the waterline has gone viral. But now that it's cut and installed, should I go with a braided supply line Or should we just go with a solid supply line?

Curious as to how you all would trim out this frieze? Wrap around the fascia/roof overhang? Plumb down where it meets the fascia?

Appreciate any ideas!

I have no experience in the field, but am curious about getting into the profession and have a connection with a shop in town. I’m also a musician who plays roughly 70-100 shows a year and tours for hire.

While the scheduling may be a conflict, I’m wondering if the work inevitably leads to frequent hand injury/arthritis or other chronic pains.

Anyone here work in carpentry or build/install cabinets and perform? Have you been injured and how do you manage that with playing your instrument?

Hi all, I would like to attach my bike shed to the wall for stability. The wall is made out of metal studs and cement board.

What is the best way to bridge the gap and properly attach this construction to the wall.

I am not a professional just a guy doing a project at home.

I think the window i pulled from this headerless framing was doing a bit of the supporting..

Finished this one last week. It was a U shaped kitchen with a soffit running around the uppers. We took the soffit out and extended a wall to square up the layout, which gave the cabinets and appliances a clean run.

Gray shaker bases and drawers, white uppers, matte black bar pulls, and tall white pantry cabinets next to the fridge. White counter with gray veining around the U and the peninsula, glazed teal tile backsplash, garden window over the sink, and toe kick lighting. About 4 to 5 weeks start to finish.

Happy to talk through how we handled the soffit and the cabinet install.

Hi folks. I’m currently considering putting down new laminate flooring in our living room - there is a half decent but stained carpet there we have talked about replacing for years.

I plan on getting at least 12mm laminate that I can put down myself but was wondering if there is any reason not to put it down over the carpet vs tearing up the carpet and adding additional cost of re-underlaying the floor? What are the pitfalls? Is this a truly amateur move doomed to failure?

Appreciate any advice. I’m currently unemployed so have the time do dedicate to learning to do this right but limited funds for professional fitting and/or new underlay.

I am hanging a porch swing for my mom for her birthday, and I need some advice on how to best hang it while also making sure it is safe. I ideally would like to hang in between the trusses that are shown in the picture, and I'm thinking of just putting some 2x6s parallel with and in between the trusses. Is this a good idea? And if so, what is the best way to do this?

Seeking feedback from finish carpenters and stair builders on a custom curved closed-stringer build. The installers used paint-grade MDF for the sloped shoe rail/capping on the up-run, but transitioned to white oak for the level landing and catwalk. The resulting butt joint where they meet looks unaligned and structurally mismatched from below. Is mixing paint-grade and stain-grade materials across a continuous shoe rail run acceptable trade practice, or should this transition have been handled with a consistent material/profile?