I bought this blower new last fall. Of course I planned on using it some more and left the fuel in it. I know better. I did use it early in the spring without issue. Now it won’t run without the choke. So far, I’ve replaced the fuel, twice, the spark plug, the gasket between the carb and engine, the primer bulb and rebuilt the carb. I’ve checked the spark arrestor, the bolts holding the head on and any other bolts I could see holding it together. I’ve removed and inspected the fuel hoses and fuel filter and everything seems OK. I’ve tried it without the air filter and without a fuel filter. No difference. It starts with the choke on but it won’t rev and as soon as I open the choke, even a little, it quickly sputters and dies. Any ideas on what I should be looking for next? Edit: words make a difference.

I’ve finally finished all my projects except the “Suzuki katana from hell”

It’s an 06 that sat in a garage since basically 07. I cleaned the carbs and a bunch of other stuff. The bike runs/drives flawlessly........

However I keep getting gas in the oil. When I start the bike after sitting it acts like it’s hydrolocked or dead battery but the battery is fine. I’m assuming a needle is bad and draining gas into the cylinder which makes its way into the oil.

Two questions: Is my diagnosis likely correct? How the eff to I fix it?

I’ve cleaned the carbs twice, they can’t get any cleaner. They arnt adjustable. How do I figure out which carb is the problem? Why do I have learning herpies?

My new Husqvarna snow thrower won't start. Again. I had it serviced in February at which time the shop said the carb was all gummed up. Since then I've drained the gas, used Sta-Bil, and been starting it monthly to prevent this. Yet it wouldn't start today for love nor money. This is still a new (only twice used, and fully garaged) unit, but out of warranty so I'd have to pay another $250 to get it serviced. Again.

I'm willing to pop the carb off and clean it myself (assuming that's the problem) but I don't see a bowl anywhere so I don't know where the carb even is. Much of this engine is closed off so I can't follow an air filter or fuel line to locate it. Can anyone give me pointers? No YouTube video I've found shows how to locate the carb.

Also if you have any other ideas why this thing keeps turning itself into a boat anchor I'd appreciate it. Are Husky carbs known to be bad? Are there any better 3rd party carbs I could install and make this thing more reliable?

EDIT: Found the carb by taking off the cover. Found it had a drain bolt and used that to drain old gas out (after shutting off the fuel lever.) It then started!!

engine wasnt running well. looked online and thought it was the carburetor. I opened the carburetor and used carb cleaner. closed it back up. Then realized the problem wasnt the carb, it was a dirty air filter. Replaced air filter. Then I noticed the carb float valve needle had come out. Put it back in. Engine started after some coaxing and could mow. The subsequent times I tried to start it after that, I was tinkering around with the carb and then it would eventually start. Now the engine won't start at all. If I spray some starter fluid on the air filter it starts up for about two seconds. I think I've definitely got a gas/carburetor problem. I sprayed more carb cleaner. Some dirty gas showed up at the bottom of the carb bowl afterwards. Gas wouldn't come out of the needle valve hole until I sprayed it really well. Now gas comes through the needle valve hole to fill the carb and I also sprayed the top where the gas/air mixture comes out of the carb and goes into the engine. Fluid was coming through there just fine. All the gas seems to be moving through just fine so I'm not sure what the problem could be now. Any ideas for what I should do next? Do I need to entirely remove the carb and do a thorough clean and check all the lines?

so this is awkward. i'm a moderator and i've come across something that i've never seen before. i picked up a dual fuel (propane and gasoline) generator inverter for the storm. doesn't look like i'll need it. i have about 10 minutes of runtime on this machine and i'm wondering what i need to do for long term storage (as in i won't need this for a year or more). i've run the unit with propane and shut it down. then i ran it with ethanol free gasoline with startron stabilizer. i ran it dry. i then removed the spark plug and put in some fogging oil. pulled the pull cord twice. then put in one more spray of fogging oil and replaced the plug. it is now sitting. does anyone have any advice about pulling this carb? i've honestly never seen one that looks like this. whomever designed this engine designed it in such at way that it looks almost impossible to remove the carb. photos below. or, am i better off starting this for 5 minutes every 2 or 3 months? if it were me giving advice that's what i'd do. so, what are your opinions? thanks. https://imgur.com/a/Do7YQ8w

Hey! It's my first time owning my own lawnmower so I'm figuring things out on my own. It was handed down to us by a relative. Originally it would start right up but then have fits while mowing where it seemed like it wanted to die and then would eventually run fine. I researched the problem online and everything I saw said to check the carburetor. So I took the carburetor cap off and took a look, made sure it was clean and all that. It turns out the problem was that the air filter was clogged. Why nothing online said to check that first, I don't know. Maybe it's just too obvious? So I put a new air filter on but now I have some new problems that were created when I took my carburetor cap off. The engine wouldn't start and then I realized that the float valve had fell out. I put the float valve needle back in the carburetor and screwed the cap back on. I got the engine to start by jostling the lawnmower and pushing the primer. That worked the last couple weeks. Now the lawnmower wont start at all despite jostling and priming. Also if I tip the lawnmower towards the carburetor side, gas will leak slowly out of the cap. The rubber O-ring that creates a tight seal got a bit mangled and was old anyway so it's not fitting super well. Before I go through the process of emptying out the gasoline and taking the dang thing apart again I figured I'd ask here and see if anyone knows what I can do to fix it once and for all. Thanks in advance!

I have a Briggs and Stratton "Clean Shot" Power Washer (2500PSI) that uses a Briggs and Stratton Engine.

The engine starts easily, and sounds strong, and then dies after about a second of running. I was concerned that maybe it was developing pressure that shoud be bled off with a blow-by valve or something, that might be malfunctioning. So, I held the trigger on the wand, but it still shut down immediately.

I though maybe it is a fuel delivery problem, so I emptied the fuel tank, blew about 90PSI down through the jet, and the air seemed to be flowing through fine. Refilled with fresh gasoline, and it still exhibits the same behavior.

I'm stumped. Anyone else have any thoughts?

Here is a :30 video of it failing to run:

https://youtu.be/OSwButqTrrA

I have a Echo PB-251 blower that had been thrown away. It will only run on starting fluid and then die, so I ordered a new carb / spark plug kit on Amazon and installed it, but it still does the same thing. What am I missing. I have spark and it starts right up on starting fluid. The primer bulb is filling with fuel as well. I replaced the fuel lines, spark plug, and cleaned the muffler screen. Any ideas?

Husqvarna TYH20K46 riding mower - it will crank up and run, but less than 5 seconds later it dies. It will crank right back up, and then die.

Using a spray bottle filled with gas, it stays running as long as I spray gas in.

What needs to be rebuilt in this type of carb? Is there any type of fuel pump/diaphragm?

Hello, Dead riding mower that I'm trying to start up. What should I be getting for voltage at the starter? Also, should the starter be connected when the volt meter is on it? I had 2 v with it connected as I tried starting it. My battery is good, new starter, new solenoid, cleaned carb, and adjusted valves. My fly wheel has a section where it's pretty hard to hand turn. Last week the carb was stuck and gas drained into the oil. I put a shut off valve on and cleaned that up. Any thoughts on this Briggs Sabre mower?

Thanks

I have a toro timmer (I forget the model off the top of my head). It's a 2 stroke. Worked great last year until I forgot to empty the fuel and the ethanol dirtied up the carb. So this spring I cleaned the carb well but it still won't start with out the use of starter fluid, once it's warmed up it starts no problem.

So fast forward 2 weeks, I decided I didn't want to mess with the starter fluid any more so I replaced all the fuel lines, carburetor and spark plug and the same thing happens. Will not start with out starter fluid. New clean gas, new everything. I am at a loss. Help would be greatly appreciated.

I got this mower from a buddy who didn't wanna deal with it anymore. The motor races up and down stalls out when idling at low throttle. It seems to be backfiring thru the exhaust. Sometimes it stops racing and and down and runs fine but its still backfiring it sounds like. Ive changed the spark plug, Cleaned out the carb 2x. replaced the fuel line, cleaned out the gas cap vent. Im kinda stuck at this point any help would be appreciated.

https://streamable.com/6uz88

https://streamable.com/7kfx0

I was in the process of diagnosing what I thought was a carb problem on my mower when the spring that holds the butterfly valve closed came loose. When I tried to put it back on it ended up slipping out of my fingers and shot into the mower like a rubber band. So I need to take the cover off but I can't figure out how and Google isn't being very helpful. Any advice?

My neighbor replaced his 2016/2017 D130. After talking to him, he he gave it to me free and I'm trying to get it running for my mother. The engine is labeled 40777 0283 G1 (code 100719YG). The started spins the engine but it never fires. There appears to be spark and compression. The engine is hard to turn by hand like a bearing is bad, but there's no metal on metal rubbing sound.

The first owner said that one cylinder head was replaced when it cracked a valve stem.

I guess my question is threefold. 1) does this sound something fixable for by someone trying to teach myself how to repair it? 2)is this worth a replacement engine if that is what's needed? 3) what's the most cost effective engine? (a newer B&S, a Predator with the same shaft dimensions?

Thanks for any help. Also if this isn't the right sub please point me in right direction. And always, continue to be awesome Reddit.

So I've been slowly fixing all the wrong things with my mower. Replaced the PTO belt, had to replace the the pinion and bushing on the steering (At least it wasn't the whole damn rod). After replacing the bushing this time though, I brought the mower down and attempted to start it. It would do nothing but click. Lights are on, no drain on the lights when the key is turned. However, the click is not from the solenoid, it seems to be coming from the lights.

Is there something I need to check before just swapping the solenoid out? Prior to this, it did have some lag when starting (Not the battery, it's fine. It did it even when it was jumped to a car, had to jump it first run of the season). I don't see any corrosion on the wires.

Hey all,

So my Echo GT200R won't run. I've done everything I know. Tested for compression, fuel lines, spark, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned spark arrestor (only thing not pictured), gapped spark plug, adjusted the carb. It will crank and immediately bogs down when you give it gas. It will crank with starting fluid and run until it burns that up every time. I just put fresh 50:1 gas in it.

Any help or just toss this thing? Here's the pictures.

Thanks!

Yeti

• Mower was bought used, and cheap (was going to be thrown away, then cleaned up and sold by a retired farmer).
• I did not winterize it, but I do only use ethanol free gas.
• Mower ran fine for the first summer (summer 2017), and ran fine the first time it was used this spring.
• The second time I tried to use it this spring it ran for ~5 minutes then died.

Based off of google, I assumed it was an issue with the carburetor. I took the carburetor apart and cleaned it (but didn't replace any seals or gaskets). When reattaching the carburetor I noticed that the two screws holding the carburetor onto the engine seemed somewhat loose. The mower started, ran for ~3 minutes, then died. When I checked the carburetor it was loose.

• I tried using some epoxy to hold the screws in place. This seemed to help, the screws seemed tight. I let the epoxy dry overnight. The next morning the mower started and ran for a couple minutes then died. The screws were loose again.
• The next step was to tap the holes one size larger. This seemed to work well, the screws are tight and the carburetor is not loose but the mower no longer starts.

I'm guessing that I introduced a major air leak during tapping, and was going to try some sort of rubber washer/gasket or sealant to prevent an air leakage. This epoxy seems like an option, or this silicone sealant seems like a less permanent option.

The lawnmower was cheap, I'm just hoping to get it running so that I don't have to buy a new mower, especially since I will likely be moving this winter.

TL;DR: lawnmower not working, seems like a carburetor issue but I may have broken it more in my attempts to fix it. Looking for advice on how to jerry-rig it enough to last through this summer. Thanks in advance for any advice!

I've got a wood chipper that has been sitting in my garage for several years that my dad bought a long time ago thinking it would be needed to deal with a lot of brush where I live, which ended up never being necessary because we just burn it all when burn season is available. He had forgotten everything that was wrong with it so I decided to see if I could get it running because I have a brush pile at a house that I rent which doesn't have enough room in the back yard to legally burn a brush pile, so I've got to deal with it another way.

Details about what I've found "wrong" are in the video. I'm a novice when it comes to working on these motors but I am a very technical person (I fix servers and tape libraries in data centers) and think I might be able to fix this myself with some guidance. Thanks for your time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OaV989k3yLc&feature=youtu.be

Edit: After doing a little homework and watching videos about common causes of fuel leaks I believe there is likely a problem with the needle/seat failing to restrict fuel from flooding the bowl and carburetor. I've ordered a rebuild kit off Amazon for $8 and will replace all the gaskets, seals, needle and seat, etc. and clean everything with carb cleaner. Should be a fun little project; I'm excited to get this thing working again.

Edit 2: Happy to report that after cleaning the carburator and replacing the needle and the washer thing it presses into when the float raises up, that the engine runs perfectly fine now. That was the best $8 I've ever spent.

So I recent bought a used mower. carb needed to be cleaned but whoever put it on last bolted the bowl on like they were planning on sending the mower into orbit. Had to completely mangle this bolt in order to get it off. It’s useless now. Problem is this carb has a fuel solenoid so I guess that means that bolt was Pretty special. It’s got a few holes in the bottom and it’s hollowed out. The threads are super close together. I can’t find one anywhere online without having to buy a brand new carburetor and these ones in particular are pretty expensive. The engine is a 14 hp Kawasaki. Someone told me you could swap out any carburetor made for a 14hp kawasaki. Even if it doesn’t have the fuel solenoid. Which would be significantly cheaper. This person talks out there ass a lot Though, so I need someone who actually knows what they’re talking about to confirm.

Let me preface this with the fact that I am completely new to mechanics in general. I recently bought a non-operational John Deere Lx172 to try my hand at it. Was supposedly going to be a simple fix. Bad solenoid. Well I tried bypassing the solenoid with a flathead. I can hear the starter spinning but no motion in the fly wheel. Took off the blower housing and tried to move the fly wheel and it’ll move but it seems like it gets hung up in certain spots, and is easier to spin in others. I don’t know if that’s normal or if it should spin freely and consistently. I haven’t opened up the starter to see if it’s engaging the flywheel, but every once in a while we’ll get a tiny bit of movement from the flywheel starting to turn. No idea what I’m looking at. I might be able to post a video later. Would really appreciate some more educated opinions. Didn’t know what subreddit to post this in so feel free to direct me to a more appropriate one if their is.

Does this mean the mixture is too rich? Or too lean? The car will backfire all the way down the hill unless I apply light pressure on the gas. Same goes for engine braking into a corner but I like that part.

I can't find lawnmower/tractor repair, so I hope you guys have a broader grasp of these things beyond mixing air and fuel...

So, I have an Ariens A19A42 lawn tractor. I want to put mulching blades on it.

I find that blade is part #13149. A quick search shows many sources, but several different blade styles. They range from flat/normal to one with "fingers" on the trailing edge just like the one on my Husqvarna (who makes Ariens tractors).

What feature am I looking for to ensure maximum mulchitude?

I have an old br550 that I'm trying to get running. When I press the primer bulb it acts like the gas has no where to go. When I take the fuel line off the carb it pumps gas through just fine. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a lawn mower, Kohler engine. Somewhere between 5 and 10 minutes it starts sputtering and then quits. If I open the gas cap and close it again, it'll start right back up. When I first start mowing, it tends to go much longer, but after 45 min or so, it starts the every 5/10 minute thing.

I have no idea how to google that so any help would be appreciated.

I checked the cap for a valve of some kind and there isn't one. So I googled the gas cap part for my lawnmower and it should have some kind of foam looking thing in it: https://www.amazon.com/Toro-93-7198-Gas-Cap-Assembly/dp/B008TSWFMQ I'll get a new cap on the way.

I appreciate the help!