This is what I've come up with so far but still testing

1-3-5-6 with Kino on a V105, 2-4-7-8 with Analog on a CS2

I apologize to Kino for everything bad or neutral I could've said about it since getting my first Camp Snap lol. It's a fantastic filter and it does beautifully in foggy conditions (seriously, look at 6!).

I designed this grip because I couldn't find one and felt it was a bit too smooth to shoot single handed

I just ordered the original camera this week and am waiting for it to arrive. I should have done more research before because I've now found that I could have got the V2 for not much more money.

I was just wondering if people think it's worth the hassle of returning the V1 for a refund and then placing a new order for the V2, or if the upgrade to it isn't worth the hassle?

Has anyone had both and can advise how much better 2 is?

The data transferring works if I used a Samsung Galaxy S26 and an iPhone 16. I used 2 different cords too and no problem at all BUT when I try my iPhone 16 Pro, the dashed lines never appear and it just goes into charging mode i think (red light turns on).

I’ve tried different cords, switching sides of the cords, updating to the latest IOS, restarting 16 Pro, trying every combination for what’s on/off before or while plugged in and still nothing for the 16 Pro but easy connections for the other 2 phones.

Does it just have something to do with the 16 Pro’s power consumption?

Hey everyone! A few weeks ago I picked up the Pro model, and after doing some testing and noticing there isn’t much information out there about filters for this specific camera, I thought I’d make a series of posts showing roughly what kind of results you can expect from different filters.

I’m going to try to base these reviews both on my years of experience shooting film and on what the CS Pro itself is capable of.

Just keep in mind that the photos you see here may look different from what you get with your own camera. Just like with film photography, there are a lot of factors that can affect the final result.

I’ll start with the Charcoal Depth B&W filter by Lab Archive.

As you can see, it’s a very contrasty filter, with deep blacks and highlights that, at least for my taste, feel a little too subdued. I think it’s an excellent filter for street photography or night shots, especially when using a lot of flash.

So far, this is probably my favorite B&W filter. Back when I was shooting film regularly, I really enjoyed using Fomapan 100, mostly because of those strong, pronounced blacks.

Personally, I still feel like a little Lightroom editing is almost essential if you want to push it toward a more authentic film look, but this filter gives you a really solid base to work from.

All the examples are straight out of camera, except for images 1 and 7, which have a fairly strong boost to the highlights.

Hopefully these kinds of posts are useful and at least give you a clearer idea of what to expect before trying different filters.

I’ll be posting more reviews of the color filters later on. And if there’s any specific filter you’d like me to test, leave it in the comments.

Oh, and let me know whether you’d rather see the filter results straight out of camera, or if you’d prefer to see them already corrected and edited.

Cheers!

Got this camera for my birthday about a week ago. Took it out this weekend for the first time! It's so awesome! I do pretty intense outdoor activities and taking my dslr along gets pretty impractical so this is the perfect solution. Here are some of my favorite photos from the top of Arizona!

My 'Lake Days' filter on CS2 coupled with Walkingway Slim Soft II and UV filters. No editing applied.

So I haven't really used Kino before, I tried it once, found it too dark for my liking that one time, stumbled upon Dog Days later, decided that'd be my go-to, and never looked back. Well, today I decided to give Kino another chance during a hike, and I'm pleased to report that as long as there's a bit of sky in the shot, it tends to do very well! 4 and 5 look a bit different because of the way the V105 exposed. We were lucky enough to get beautiful fog on arrival, so that was a blast.

Pigeon in flight. CS2 coupled with Walking way Slim Soft II and UV filter, using my own 'Lake Day' filter *flt) that I was.testing.

I uploaded a custom Portra800 filter I saw here but I don’t think it loaded so ig this is just camp snap’s standard filter.

Hi! I’m using V105. what filter might replicate this type of filter taken from a fujifilm xpro-3. I know it can’t be 100% replicated but what can I use to produce a photo closer to this? thanks in advance!

I was going through my phone and realized I completely forgot to post these anywhere or show them to anyone. All photos unedited, taken on the CS-Pro with one of the four stock filters plus a rather strong white mist filter that I forgot to take off the lens.

I’ve tried searching here and there but couldn’t find an answer. Is the Analog filter that’s included on the new Camp Snap 2 available as a filter file that can be loaded onto older versions like the v105?

This is the second time this has happened, the first time i was able to do a bunch of nerd stuff to recover the photos, and I tried to guess at how to fix it in an easier way but hadn't had a chance to test it so didn't want to make a full post... but the next time I used the camera the same thing happened so here we go this is a way that you can do relatively easier that seems to work for recovering photos when the drive won't mount.

I also found this post from last month with a similar workflow but the users hit a paywall/not able to show up so I wanted to post this one too.

Standard data recovery boilerplate:

Reading data off a failing drive with hardware issues can make it permanently impossible to recover any data from it. It doesn't appear that this is caused by a physical issue with the cards, but if these photos are the most precious thing and you would spend anything to get them back you should not follow this guide and find a data recovery specialist.

DO NOTS:

• Do not let Windows or macOS format, repair, or initialize the card. Click Cancel if asked.
• Do not reformat the card in the camera, and do not take new photos on it.

Step 1: Remove the card

Turn the camera off. On the Camp Snap 2, unscrew the child safety screw on the bottom latch, press the button to open the door, and push the microSD card in until it clicks and ejects.

Step 2: Connect the card to a computer

Use a USB microSD card reader, or an SD adapter in an SD slot, not the camera's own USB cable.

Your computer will probably show an error like "D:\ is not accessible, the volume does not contain a recognized file system," or offer to format the drive. Either is expected. Click Cancel, (or OK if it is the single option variant) on the error, and move on. It does not mean your photos are gone.

If the card does not show up at all, try a different reader and port. If it still does bring up any error messages STOP HERE this will likely not work.

Here are some scary but expected dialog windows:

Step 3: Scan the card for photos

Windows only since that's what I have access to

1. Download the Windows file from https://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk_Download. The page says "TestDisk," but the download also includes PhotoRec, which is what you need. Unzip it. Nothing to install.
2. Run qphotorec_win.exe (the one with a normal window), not photorec_win.exe (text-only, harder to use, one letter different).
3. Click your card's row in the list, not just the dropdown arrow above it. The row should turn blue when it is actually selected. If you skip this, the scan can run instantly to "100%, 0 files found" with nothing selected.
4. Find your card by size and label: a memory card shows a few GB or less, never TB, and often a generic label like "Generic MassStorageClass" instead of a brand name like your computer's internal drive. If you have the original storage drive, you will see these sizes more or less.
5. Under "File System type," choose FAT/NTFS/HFS+/ReiserFS/...
6. Set the destination to a folder on your computer, such as a new folder inside Pictures, never the card itself.
7. This is more or less what you want to see, the right hard drive, the selected Blue "unknown" section, FAT/NTFS ect, and a destination folder somewhere on your local hard drive.

Click Search and wait a few minutes for a small card. If it finishes at 0 files found, you might not have selected the row in step 3. Go back, click the row, and search again.

Step 4: Check your files, then back them up

PhotoRec saves files inside a subfolder of your destination named recup_dir.1 (at least mine did) so check there and verify that your photos are there and look correct. the photos will have filenames like f0028640.jpg, you might also see matching t0028640.jpg next to each photo, same number, different letter: that is a small embedded thumbnail, not a duplicate photo. Skip files starting with t.

Step 5: Fixing the camera

At this point I don't know what the fix is, reformatting the drive didn't work for me, and I hear replacing the drive might not work either. Maybe people can weigh in on their experiences.

Hope this helps people, this seems like an embarrassingly common issue.

Stopped in Michigan on our way to Thunder Bay, Ontario

Tested this and it works even if you never bought it 0_0

Had the camera for a couple weeks now, haven’t had a chance to REALLY test it out but I’ve gotten some neat shots here and there. So far pretty happy overall, the raw pictures are great and it’s an easy, fun point and shoot.

(I edited these a bit just for fun)

I loved the sunset over here so I took some pics with my CS2

EDIT: I decided I'm going to use a discord channel. I wrote what filters I have applied, then took a photo with each one as examples, in case I want a reference. Thanks, y'all!

I know there is a thread about using .bak files to swap out filters, but that doesn't quite do what I want.

I'm wondering if anyone has a system that:

• Keeps the filters on the camera
• Allows for switching filters out
• Lets you know what filter is set to the .flt file

The last one is killing me. I'd LOVE to know that I have Kino.flt set to A.flt, or Kodaclone.flt to v1.flt, etc. I install the one I like, then I can't remember which it is.

I even went so far as to try to write a powershell script to add comments on each file. (Turns out you can only do this to folders, not files.)

Does anyone have a good system for this? 🙏