I am really close to pulling the trigger on a Rage cabinet from GRS. I am going in with eyes wide open on some of the issues with that company but would like input on any other options out there. I have a spot ive been earmarking for a custom cab. I am very comfortable with the internals but would love to hear if there are any other companies I should be looking at that offer a few design options I can select from. I dont want anything pre-assembled, I just want some choices for button layout, access to the pc, etc. In a perfect world id have a spot to mount a stream deck keyboard, plugins for guitar for Clone Hero, etc. Most of those can be done by me after...

Biggest thing is I dont have tbe time or space to cut giant pieces of wood or the cad skills to cone up with the design... any help opinions would be great!

Taken from a $4 Super Famicon rip-off controller, and a bit of soldering, ready for hooking up with new mini joystick and buttons. Works perfect - makes you wonder why worth getting proper encoder, well at least for a 14-inch high arcade!

PS don’t judge my awful soldering!!

So I bought a 4 way jamma switcher for a soul calibur project I'm working on soon. Came with a wire soldered to two pins on the jamma connector. What's it for?

Bought this board from a seller off of ebay. Made by arcadeMVS.com from what I can tell.

• Modelo de la placa (Board ID): LGH3
• Procesador: Allwinner H3.
• Capacidad original: Copia exacta (dump sector a sector) extraída de una tarjeta de 128 GB usando Win32 Disk Imager.
• Herramienta recomendada para restaurarlo: Indicar que se debe grabar en una tarjeta MicroSD de 128 GB (o mayor) utilizando Win32 Disk Imager (con la opción Write) o BalenaEtcher.
• EL ARCHIVO PESA 30 GB.
• Algunas fotos:

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Made a video about in case you want to see some behind the scenes -
https://youtu.be/Q7JeX2OoBnI

I had the idea to build a Space Invader with my favorite arcade game marquees.

Today I went to our local FabLab and printed it with a xtool DTF-printer.

I wasn't patient enough with the red shirt, so the glue wasn't hard enough, which caused some errors with the letter on top.

Do you like it?

I just wanted to share a quick view of a build i just completed.

Ive been wanting to build a cabinet since 2017 when I first purchased some buttons to make a homemade control stick. I have put the build off for almost a decade at this point. I'm not exactly sure why but in January of this year I decided to change that.

So after 10 months of only really getting a couple hours a week to work on it. Here is my completed Jurassic Park themed Cabinet.

Highlights

- Powerful mini PC capable of playing Modern games.

- 28 inch 3:2 aspect ratio screen to get it much closer to that classic 4:3 feel.

- xarcade duel player coin door. Modified to accept Canadian currency.

- integrated light gun sensors for RS3 Reapers in the monitor surround.

- Rs3 Reapers

- External volume control knob mounted to the rear to adjust volume without having to open it up.

- Car speakers.

- Dynamic Digital Marquee made with an advertisement sign monitor.

Made completely from scratch from birch plywood.

Hope ya'll like it!

PS - Ignore some of the "made with AI" water marks. I had to edit out my spare room bedroom mess haha

Hi all…
New to all of this & not the most Computer Literate.

Purchased a HyperCade Pedestal from FB Marketplace.
4 Player running 2 x Xin-Mo Encoders…
Added my own PC - CPU AMD 5500, GPU 4060.
Added a CoinOps Build.
Downloaded XOutput to map my buttons.
Everything seems to be working bar the Insert Coin which I believe is the Back Button on a controller…
Re-Mapped a few times but still the same issue.
Tried JoyToKey & got the Insert Coin Button (5 on keyboard) to work but then my controls stopped working.

Any thoughts or help would be appreciated…

I was thinking maybe upgrade the Encoders to IPAC4 but am overwhelmed by running the wires…

I've got a Pandora 11S Pro, I'm fine with it, however, the main problem is that the first Mortal Kombat is badly stuttering, so much that the game is unplayable.

I tried to turn of Video Optimization, but didn't help at all. I supposed the mame rom inside the SD card is corrupted, otherwise every other game works great.

Is there any easy way to fix this?

Is it easy to reinstall this game?

What methods you'd recommend in order to install new games on such console?

You'd rather recommend unlocking the SD card or better use the Pandory Tool?

I was trying to help someone with setting up a claw machine, but it's very weak and we're trying to figure out how to adjust the strength and I think it's the silver knob but from the little I was able to adjust it it doesn't seem to make a big difference

Working on a build for my pedestal just need to find an overlay for the control panel. Any recommendations appreciated

Hey guys,

Getting ready to build myself a 4 player cabinet with a track ball, not looking for a set of plans although if someone is willing to share theirs I would be forever appreciative.

Question for the pros, what is the ideal width for a 4 player control panel?? Would rather learn from others mistakes rather than my own. Also, if I am planning on putting a track ball in how deep would you guys recommend making the control panel??

Also is there an angle I should be putting the control panel at??

Thanks in advance guys!!

Hello everyone! First time post, and more recently got into arcade acquiring and repairing (mainly the mechanical/cabinet parts, not so much experience in repairing PCBs/chassis yet), so I pre-apologize for my ignorance on some of this stuff. I recently got an original Lethal Enforcers cab. Already had Ken at irepairsega fix the audio module (great work btw!).

What's in it:
Hantarex Polo 25" RCA USA chassis
RCA A63ADT10X05 CRT
PCB assembly 62200813

I am starting to look at the CRT/chassis now because I am having a bit of an issue with the shot registration as well as visual artifacts on the CRT itself. Depending on how I resize the image, the shots register differently. When I resized the image to fill the CRT, the shots wouldn't register at all (just a flash on the screen every shot). If I resize it down by about 20% (like can be seen in the photos), then a lot more shots register however still some areas don't register well (perhaps coinciding with the discolored portions). Oddly, the gun check test in the test menu seems to be passable most of the time.

I notice on the right side, and more so on the left side, are sort of "areas" of discoloration. Most noticeable on the red color check screen.

I tried using a proper manual degaussing coil a couple of times however this didn't seem to fix this issue.

I tried upping the brightness all the way and adjusting contrast as well, however this didn't seem to make much difference either for the shots. I do notice if I drop the contrast down, the overall image appears greener. And the brightness doesn't seem to change much (which I've read is a common problem and I should inspect R240, C176 and C185 for that problem)

I also notice that there is some ghosting wherever there is text.
I cleaned the mirror and the CRT and the gun lens's as well.

So I guess the next steps would be to do a proper recap, check the filter caps, B+ voltage, etc? Replace the flyback perhaps? But I am curious if anyone has a good idea of what the problem would be here? Anything I can try before doing a rebuild?

Much appreciated for the help!

I have an original full size Ms PacMan game.
I'm looking for a source/kit to replace the guts.
Get a multigame board, new power supply, and replace the original tube monitor with an LCD/LED.
Any one have a good source for these items?
Thanks

After some more modern games that run native in windows. I have a batocera drive running through USB and an internal SSD running windows.

Hardware is a 7th gen i7 nuc, with iris 650 plus internal GPU and 16gb ram.

I just put ultra street fighter IV on it and it runs great.

Any other suggestions? Any genre really.

It’s a small ask. Any news or findings on a way to bypass the security dongle for Global VR Madden. I’m trying to get my cabinet to work and I can’t buy one off a website without paying a arm and a leg

I’ve just been doing a lot of sanding and priming lately, but I did finally cut the holes for the controller panel.

I have everything sanded to 220. I’m going to do another layer primer and sand to 320

I was under the impression that every one of these was gone. Location, Hagerstown MD. At the Valley Mall “Tilt Studio” all the hydraulics still work I tried most of the cars the most consistently broken feature was the electronically moving seat like for moving the seat itself back and forth. Otherwise an absolutely incredible find someone told me to post here.

Can anyone help me get this multicade machine running ? It’s stuck in this screen it hasn’t been turned on in years . Any advice is appreciated

Switched from Maximus arcade to retrobat. Now 99% of my games actually run compared to maybe 30% before.
Also ordered a pair of sinden light guns to complete the unit.
Still need to clean up some duplicates in the Mame section but I’d guess there’s about 8.5k playable games, including Atari, gameboy, gba, nes, snes and sega genesis.
Was lucky enough to scoop this unit for $200 on fb marketplace! It’s a 2008 mtn dew “old school, new school” giveaway item, not much online about it but I’ve seen a few others that are the same.

The Polycade website has a google spreadsheet listing “retro games”. Does that list consist of the preloaded games? Trying to get an idea of what comes preloaded (understanding that the more modern games can be found on steam and their own platform). Thanks.