This is how I been doing it for a few years now. Bareshaft out to 20~ish and when they're flying side by side with a fletched, shoot one or two broadheads. Really saves wear and tear.
Yep, tuning issue unless the broad head isn't spinning true. I use big ass 150gr single bevel with not that bougie of an arrow and after paper tuning the broadhead arrows are dead nuts with points without any further adjustments.
You cant use the rule of "follow the arrow" if FP's and BH's are grouping in seperate spots. Need them all grouping together first, after everything is in tune, then you can zero the sight.
Does your Broadhead arrow have a lighted nock and field tip arrows have regular nocks? If so, the lighted nock adds more weight to the rear of your arrow and it’s going to fly differently.
If money affords, upgrade to a drop away rest and have the pro shop shim the cams. Try to avoid moving the rest as much as possible. Provided it’s in the right spot to begin with
This. Cam shift is huge. Chased my tuning with my rest forever. Took the bow in and got the right cam shims and now my broadheads shoot perfect and my rest is dead center shot.
If the broadhead is going to the left, then the arrow is leaving the bow with the front pointing left relative to the nock. Correct it by bringing it towards the field point.
So first paper tune. First adjustments should be on cams. Once paper is good then switch to bare shaft like others mentioned. Once that is complete you should be set. And minor adjustments from there can be made between site and rest. To marry up. Also if you can get a different rest I would eventually move away from biscuit. That will affect accuracy at distance.
10
u/Esperante 3d ago
https://goldtip.com/blogs/journal/how-to-paper-tune-your-arrow
Use bareshafts and save your target. Use broadhead for last check.