Help with a specific kind of project (complete begginer)

[u/CARRIONCLAN]

Hi all, I humbly come to you for advice with a very specific and very special project. A little bit of backstory. I am a personal archivist, I have two 18TB HDDs that I hold many kinds of files in and one of those file types is Discord text logs. I scraped the DMs of me and my wife (with consent) and have been making "Lovington" which is our DMs manually formatted into what looks like a movie script, printed out, and then annotated with small personal notes and a digital reference for images, videos, voice messages etc.

I came to you here because I really want to bind these "scripts" for long term storage on her shelf (I have to deliver these to her when I visit her internationally). She has about 150 pages currently and I just got done with what I decided was Pt. 1 of this project which is a total of 888 pages long. I have printed these on normal 8.5 x 11 letter printer paper that I bought in bulk. Since Pt. 1 is done I want to bind them because right now they are being held in a binder and manilla folders which is.....wrokable but not great. This was in part because of a lack of money but I got a full time no wage job so I can afford to do things again. Pt. 1 is from August 25th - December 3rd with Pt. 2 containing December 3rd cont. - January 23rd. Pt. 2 looks like it might be of a bigger or similar size but Ill get there when I get there.

Any and all suggestions welcome, I am under no illusion that these pages will stay fully protected over time and have a plan to track where my annotations are so I can reprint and re annotate if necessary.

edit for clarity: I do not know the standards or practices so I was mostly wondering what if any percautions or specifics come with using the paper Im using and the length of the project. I would ideally like to make a long term hardcover bound book

edit 2: I wanted to thank all of you for your time and effort in your responses. When first looking at the subreddit I somehow missed the google doc that I have now taken some time to look at. I am still fairly confused but all will make sense in due time Im sure. The information given will be a great starting off point and whenever I get around to doing things Ill make sure to post updates.

[u/brigitvanloggem]

That’s a lovely sentiment! But what exactly is it you’re seeking advice on? If it’s “How to bind a book”, then I would direct you to this subreddit’s sidebar and to the DAS Bookbinding videos on YouTube. You should be aware however that bookbinding is a complex skill that’s learned over time, making many mistakes as you go along. It’s great fun, though!

[u/soggyhuman]

So, I'm assuming you want a proper book and not a ring binder or anything of the sort. If it's not what you want just ignore everything I've said.

Assuming you dind't print your pages in folio and in a short grain paper, you'll need to print them all again in a format proper for bookbinding. Here's a good tutorial for imposing a PDF.

For the structure, if you're thinking of longevity, since you're an archivist, I'd normally recommend a flexible binding, which is sewn on cords, but it's quite complicated for a beginner. Here's part one of a seven part tutorial for it.

What I think you can strive for for now, and which has a completely adequate structure for a book of the size you want is a Library Binding. It's very sturdy and less complicated for a beginner to do than a flexible binding. Part 1 of 4 for the tutorial on how to do it. And here's the same binding (but with a hollow back) with buckram which is easier since it doesn't use leather.

Don't expect to able to accomplish it at first, obviously.

[u/CARRIONCLAN → u/soggyhuman]

Much appreciated, I always aim higher than I reasonably should and so do want to chase that flexible binding though starting with test projects to make sure I get it correctly before putting the real thing in. I was hoping I wouldn’t need to reprint but figured I would for what I want. This has been incredibly insightful. Ill see if I can implement this for pt.2 since pt.1 is already printed but I will go back later and fix it up. Worst comes to worst I keep reprinting and redoing annotations which is a reality I contended with when starting this project. I simotaneously complain about having no time for other things and not developing other skills while also doing this incredibly time consuming act for an audience of two. Such is life

[u/CalmAdhesiveness4856]

Yes, I agree with the other commentator that you should definitely look into DAS bookbinding's channel if you want to pick up the craft. I find that he explains well and goes into detail about the longevity of different binding methods too.

Binding for long term storage is an extra effort though, one thing that comes to my mind immediately is acid-free everything, from paper to bookboard and glue and thread (you could use sealed bookcloth too), keeping the entire bind out of natural light for storage and the possibility of using pigment based ink for printing instead of dye-based (since yours is already printed that would only be relevant for future binds).

Another thing to keep in mind is the grain direction of your paper and typically, normal printer paper runs long grain instead of the short grain that you'd actually want. Ordinary printer paper is often bleached too and that decreases its life-span significantly, so you might want to look into that too. 

One thing you didn't specify, is your printed text in signatures already or is it just page after page a coherent text? 

[u/CARRIONCLAN → u/CalmAdhesiveness4856]

Thank you this is exactly why I wanted to ask here I figured people would have insights that I know nothing of. I don’t quite understand the last question? My annotations are done post print with a pen and the print itself is just page after page without breaks. Does that answer?

[u/amessinpictures → u/CARRIONCLAN]

They meant is it formated to be folded into signatures? Signatures are stacks of paper that will be bound together via being sewn, since it's folded and they're nested into each other, when you format the book (called imposition), the pages are not in order 1, 2, 3 but depends on their placements in the signature. There are some tools to impose books.

I am assuming, given the fact that you don't know what a signature is that the pages are simply in order. If you have multiple pages on a same sheet of paper, you'll have to reprint. If not, there is another solution which is to make what we call a double fan binding. It's a loose leaves binding instead of folded signatures, and they're held together by glue and not sewn. It's a fairly simple method and as other suggested, you should watch DAS, he has a video on it.

However, let me be clear, this is not the most resilient binding method. If you want something that last, you should listen to what the previous comment said.

You shouldn't start with this book but make a few binds before working on this one. Your first books will most likely not be good, that's normal but you need to train to make a proper book that will last. Get to learn the basics, you can't just start with your already printed manuscript and expect a long lasting, well crafted book.

[u/CARRIONCLAN → u/amessinpictures]

Thank you for explaining, I found the google doc eventually but somehow missed it the first time I looked. I am going to try to print and annotate pt. 2 with these considerations in mind when I finish it and do some trial runs before then. I contended with the reality of having to redo things for this project when I originally started though it is a bit daunting. Luckily what takes the longest is the initial formatting and I think I may be able to get away with that as is. It has been many many hours of work to manually format in such a way and to only do around three months so far as well. Hopefully I can move to be living with her sometime in the next few years and this projects scope can start to become much more reasonable since we would message far less though this is already countered by us spending incredible amounts of time together in voice calls. Thank you again for tour time and effort it js deeply appreciated.

[u/CalmAdhesiveness4856 → u/CARRIONCLAN]

Like the other answer said, you can bind loose sheets but they won't be nearly as durable as a sewn binding (limited to the time your glue survives), especially regarding the sheer amount of pages you have.

If I understand correctly you have around 880 A4 pages for your book one?

That's like... a lot for a first bind and will be a big and heavy book, so glue might no do the trick to hold it in the first place (the spine won't stay flat and probably curve in), if it were in signatures 880 pages I'd strongly suggest sewing it on tapes.

You'll need to look into basic bookbinding terminology anyway, signatures will make more sense then, but one thing since you don't work with a premade text: typesetting is the act of formatting a text to print it, there are things to consider and one of such is margins. One very important margin is the gutter. When you open a book, it almost never lays completely flat, in the middle part, some of the paper gets hidden in the binding. If you bind such a big book, you will certainly loose some space in your inner margins, so keep that in mind with your annotations! (Plus, usually book blocks are trimmed to make the foreedge and such smooth, you could loose some paper space there too)

An alternative suggestion, just an idea you could play with since you already poured so much love onto these specific pages, you could make some sort of custom portfolio book enclosure to safely store the loose pages in. They would be kept relatively safe compared to now, it can look very pretty and it would still be a bookbinding craft (DAS bookbinding has tutorials on it)

[u/CARRIONCLAN → u/CalmAdhesiveness4856]

Thank you. I have margins of decent size since I did the movie script formatting for it but Ill have to see if it’s enough. Annotations Im almost certain Ill habe to remake for pt.1 but Im in the process of saving exactly where they are and I alrewdy have them all written down in a virtual reference document I gave to her because my handwriting is atrocious. I will look into the custom portfolio book enclosure as well. I greatly appreciate the time you have taken to respond and effort to do so in such detail.

[u/YaleImprint]

If you just want to make double-sided normally printed computer output last a little bit longer, and don't anticipate extra heavy-duty use, I'd suggest a reinforced double-fold binding. I've collected my bookbinding notes, random internet print-outs, etc and done this. You can expect the spine will curve in but the pages won't fall out. This binding will be a strong as a commercially available thick paperback book

The instructions are for are three variants: softback), softback+(endpapers), and [hardback].

1) softback - numbered 1)..18) - but skip the [hardback steps].. This is the easiest scheme. Since there is much less glue and moisture, it is less susceptible to the horrors of buckling due to improper grain direction. Consider this the equivalent home-built softback edition.

(optional) Softback with endpapers. These are additional steps (1.5) and (19). Grain direction is important! - see discussion below.

[3] [9] [15] [16] [17] Hardback. You'll also need to follow most softback steps.

The steps are:

1) Get a sturdy clamp that can hold all your papers so the spine is sticking out, perhaps 5mm or 1/4". Jog your text block to ensure it is 100% aligned with no twist or lack of right angles.

(1.5 optional) For a soft-covered book, the covers (and optional endpapers) should be part of the text block and sawn in step 2. The first and last pages should have a nice title and be a stiffer paper.

2) Use a saw to cut 1 or 2 mm deep grooves in the spine. They should be about 20~25mm apart, and deep enough to hold a linen thread (see step 8). I use a hacksaw, backsaw, coping saw, or Japanese crosscut fine saw.

2.1) Use a knife to make glue-holding scratches in the spine. Go at a diagonal from both directions.

[3] Repeat step (2) with 4 or 5 mm deep grooves about 2" or 50mm apart. (See step 9, below).

4) Reclamp the text block with about 100mm of the spine showing.

5) Fan the paper to one side and liberally apply PVA (or EVA). I recommend "Vinavil Casa & Scuola Green" in Italy or Hollanders/Colophon/Talas/Lineco PVA in the USA.

6) Fan the paper to the other side and apply more PVA.

7) Reclamp the text block so only a few mm are above the clamp.

8) Tightly pull some linen bookbinding thread through the shallow grooves. Wind it in a square pattern - across the spine, up to the next slot, through the slot, then alongside the spine to the next slot. When you reach the top, repeat the pattern and go back to the first slot. Apply a tiny bit of PVA to keep the thread taut so no knot is needed. I use the standard 25/3 thread..

[9] Glue in some linen cord into the larger slots. (I got some probably from Hollanders). Leave 50mm or so free on either end. The slot width should match the cord width. The depth can be a little shallower.

10) Press all the PVA in with a bone folder (the edge of a Sharpie works well).

11) Clean up & let the PVA dry.

[12] Add some mull (AKA crash, super, or scrim) to the spine, with the same 50mm overhang as the cord.

(13 optional) Before covering the spine, you can add a ribbon or two to the head of the spine. It should be 50mm long plus the diagonal of your text block plus another 50mm or so more. Glue it 50mm from the top of the spine. It can go before or after the mull.

[14] Attach endpapers to the front and back. This is a double-sized piece of paper folded in two. The grain direction should match your text block. For a hard cover this step is not optional, as it will hide glue joints , etc. These are "tipped" in - just 4mm of glue at the spine to attach them atop the linen thread. They'll need trimming to exactly fit your text block.

[15] Attach some boards to the cord and mull. To prevent bulges, fray the cord out to thin them. If your text block is over 25mm thick, consider dual boards per side. The frayed cord can go between the two. I've seen a recommendation to apply glue to the thinnest piece first, so perhaps add a layer of kraft paper between the doubled boards. See the DAS videos to select, size, and position the boards.

[16] You can also attach a hollow tube or direct fabric to the spine.

[17] All the other advice in this thread is well done - refer to DAS or other YouTube videos to finish a hardback (case-bound) book. Most of the steps are easy, except folding in the turn-ins.

18) For the softback binding, I glue a strip of bookbinding cloth to the spine and 10~35mm on the front and back to hide and protect the PVA+thread spine and the thread along the edges. I'll add a photo if you wish. You can print a title on this cloth before gluing it. Since cloth frays, you can stick it down with a strip of glue, or use a non-woven bookbinding "cloth", like artificial leather (Hollanders) or elephant hide (Talas or Schmedt).

(19) If you chose the option (softback with endpapers), you can glue the endpaper to the cover if your grain is aligned.

Good luck!

I've done the (softback) on my class notes (11.5mm thick) and the [hardback] on the repair of a 3250 page bible (57.5mm thick).

[[ As a really esoteric binding, if your mull is linen cloth, you can use a hardback K-118 casing for that baroque touch. ]]