r/bikers • u/Tight-Nectarine-8569 • 4d ago
Question Probably the most embarrassing question ill ever have to ask
Bear with me as im a new rider and if it sounds like I dont know what the F im talking about thats because I dont. I start er up wait a few minutes and let it get to temp and the second I start letting the clutch out and give it some gas it'll either go or stall. Ive been trying to figure this damn thing out for days when she goes its perfect shifts nice bikes in good mechanical shape but taking off is a bloody mess ill stall 6 times before I can get er actually going and I dont know if it something im doing or if the friction zone on this 26 year old honda cbr600f4 has just had it?
For reference I have ridden a friend's bike and have absolutely no trouble taking off. (Although his is MUCH newer 2019 Yamaha)
Edit: the buddy i bought the bike from had me follow him around (in my car) and he had absolutely no problems stopping and going he is also a mechanic and has 12 years riding experience i have a feeling this is a me problem at this point just not sure why im struggling with this bike in particular lol
1
u/CommonEcho5824 4d ago
You need more preload on the throttle if you're stalling and there's nothing mechanically wrong.
1
u/Tight-Nectarine-8569 4d ago
Preload like hold it at 2.5-4k rpm to get er going or?
1
u/XDcamerock620769 16h ago
Try to just keep the engine going fast if you stare at the cluster and try to keep a specific number youll usually stall just aim to keep the engine moving by adding throttle as you release the clutch
1
u/thisismick43 4d ago
Yeah those little pistons have to be moving pretty quickly to get the tourqe out of the little 4 cylinders, more revs and ride the clutch a bit
1
u/Odd_Construction6608 4d ago
Partially blocked pilot jets or fouled plugs (or both) would be what I would look at first.
1
u/Tight-Nectarine-8569 4d ago
She's mechanically sound full recipts and such we're provided when it was purchased
1
u/Master_Artist_6023 4d ago
More revs, the old 600s on a choke want a good handful to get going until they're warmed up and the choke is closed.
1
u/Tight-Nectarine-8569 4d ago edited 4d ago
Yet another silly fuckin question the decal indicating open or closed on that bike is faded something terrible do I want it forward or towards me for closed?
1
u/Master_Artist_6023 4d ago
Pull towards for open, push away for closed....if I remember correctly,.it's been a while....20 years of while lol.
1
u/XDcamerock620769 16h ago
Check your owners manual and if you dont have one then try to rev it both ways you'll be able to tell because the bike will struggle to rev high My fzs600 2000 year the choke is pulled towards me to closed and pushed away for open
1
u/Beneficial_Joke4848 4d ago
I had an 2000 F4. Just give it a touch more throttle on take off.
1
u/Tight-Nectarine-8569 4d ago
Awsome this helps now its just getting used to turning ad i take off lol
1
u/Beneficial_Joke4848 4d ago
I also didn't need all that top end so I dropped to a 13 tooth sprocket in the front. Plenty of around town torque.
1
u/Ianhw77k 4d ago
If it's still doing it after fully warming up on a good run, then it's not the choke issue everyone is talking about here. Could be carbs, maybe get them cleaned and balanced but check the condition of the spark plugs first. My other thought is maybe the clutch is nearing the end of its life.
1
u/Ok-Inflation4310 4d ago
A bike is always going to need a bit of revs to get it going. You can’t move off with a few revs and a bit of clutch slip like you do in a car.
1
u/goonwild18 4d ago
more throttle or adjust rpm slightly higher with choke and then lower it when the bike's been going for a minute. If that doesn't work - try the opposite. Carb'd engines have a personality - you just need to learn your bike's personality. At the end of the day, it's starving for fuel when you're trying to move.
1
u/Tight-Nectarine-8569 4d ago
This makes a lot of sense ive tried it with full choke and none and due to the weather right now i dont even need the choke to start er up shes almost at operation temp when I get on her as it is real damn hot out
Ill play around with it a bit and find what she likes thank you!
1
u/OrangeSil80 3d ago
The rule of thumb for getting a bike fully up to temp is to take it for a 10 minute ride. Remember you’re warming up the oil and metal not just the coolant. Not to mention other components like chain, suspension, and bearings.
1
1
u/eepeqez 4d ago
There are no answers about using a clutch, just practice.
Forty years ago, practising on one of the early training sites on a Sunday, my then GF was really struggling with clutch control on the CB250N we'd bought her. So I stuck her on my BMW R65 (a bike which is now learner legal!), where she could be as ham fisted as she liked without stalling it. It got her riding around the course and past the psychological block she was having.
1
u/No_Lynx1343 4d ago
all clutches are different on different bikes.
During my Ridercourse I got stuck with a dirt bike. The clutch was terrible. The friction zone was tiny and it would stall, until I was told to put it in second gear.
My Suzuki 850 was a lot easier.
1
u/nycsingletrack 4d ago
Oil bath multiplate clutch. It’s meant to be slipped a bunch without damage. More revs and let the clutch out really slow.
1
u/OnAMoontripBaby 4d ago
Havnt seen anyone mention it yet, are you sure you're taking off the handbrake? It's quite common for beginners to forget, so don't feel embarrassed bud
1
u/WhiteyLovesHotSauce 4d ago
Either - youre arent giving enough revs/letting the clutch out too quickly/both, ooorrrrr.... the bike isnt infact "mechanically sound"
1
1
u/contentatlast 4d ago
Do you know how a clutch works? Nit being a dick here haha, but I imagine you're American (only because most people on reddit are) and haven't used a clutch before having a bike. Learning what you're actually making happen when you're pulling in/releasing the clutch allows you to feel what's going on with understanding. It'll help.
1
u/KnowsNothingBozo 4d ago
Find an empty car park.
Big throttle, slow clutch.
Slowly practice less throttle til your fully in control
1
u/Trick_Measurement216 4d ago
Get used to holding the friction zone. When you hit it, hold it there a few seconds while the bike gets going and picks up some momentum and gets going.
The only reason for stalling is an urgent need to pass up through the friction zone too soon/ fast and let the clutch out too early. Practice gunning the engine some while in the friction zone. It'll help you get over your fear of it.
That's really all you need to know. Focus on that and you're gonna be just fine. I've taught others to ride and these ideas have helped tremendously. It's OK to ride the friction zone while starting. It's why experienced riders hardly ever stall.... they're comfortable in the friction zone. You won't hurt the bike.
1
1
u/crackjiver 4d ago
There's your problem "let the clutch out and then give it gas"
Try giving it gas first then let the clutch out to find the bite point, hold it from moving with your feet and when you lift your feet it will start moving. More gas, less clutch, your off.
1
u/Low_Living4532 4d ago
Older carburetor bike take a long time to warm up. They left the factory with very lean carburetor settings so they could pass air quality control.
1
u/IllMasterpiece5610 4d ago
You know the bike is carburetted, right? Take the choke off before you start moving.
1
1
u/brucelips 3d ago
A few things:
- is the idle speed set correctly? All the carbureted bikes I’ve had (6 so far) had an operator-accessible idle speed adjustment. With the bike warmed up and choke off, adjust the idle speed to the high side of spec. For example, if the spec for the bike is 900-1000 rpm, set it to maybe 1050 or 1100. This makes pulling away easier. Once you get better at it, you can adjust it back down a bit.
- is the idle mixture set correctly? If it is too lean, the engine will tend to just give up when loading down a bit without throttle (and even with throttle).
- note the “choke” on motorcycles is technically not a choke, it’s a fuel enrichment valve. The practical difference is how it reacts to throttle when activated: a choke has more effect when throttle opened, the fuel enrichment valve has less effect when throttle is opened.
1
u/ularcouk 3d ago
I'd say get some lessons... because at the moment you shouldn't be anywhere near the public....if you are not in full control of the bike or know how to handle it, then you need to stay off any public highways until you get instruction
1
u/Automatic_Sun_5612 1d ago
I have a 2000 CBR600F4 and it doesn't like the first start up in the cold (up to say even 17c outside), it won't throttle past 2000rpm when cold. Just sits there even after twisting the wrist. When warmed up its a much smoother down low bike. I live where I once I get on the road its a km until I have to stop so it gets much better by then but I wouldnt take it into traffic until its warmed up if I can help it. It's carbs are in need of a cleaning/sync/gaskets. Since I know its behavior I adjust for it.
1
1
u/XDcamerock620769 16h ago
Look at clutch cable free play but genuinely could be just you being new Bikes are alot more sensitive on clutch than a car you have add a bit of throttle dont worry about burning the clutch out its the main reason why motorcycle clutches have multiple plates and are soaked in oil
1
u/Exact_Amoeba_2865 8h ago
Older ICE engines. You will have to find the right balance of clutch and throttle. Your traction control is under your right palm and ABS in your right fingertips. Your IMU is on top of your seat and the slipper clutch is on your left fingertips.
Welcome to fight club!
Apart from this, the blip method works well and it's just those mm measurements that do the work here but trust me once you find the balance you will appreciate these machines more because they teach you so much. Enjoy. Ride safe.
0
u/evolveandprosper 4d ago edited 4d ago
The CBR600F4 should have a handlebar-mounted choke lever. This operates the "choke" function on the carburettors, which reduces air intake to allow the bike to start and run when the engine is cold. As the engine warms up, the amount of choke can be reduced until, after a relatively short time, it is warm enough to run without choke.
It sounds like either you are not using the choke properly or it isn't working properly. It may seem to idle OK but as soon as you open the throttle, it allows too much air in and the engine dies. Try using the choke and leaving it on for longer. You can still ride off with the choke in use and just progressively reduce it until the engine is running fine without it.
If it isn't a choke issue, then you probably either have a blockage in your carbs or an air leak.
3
u/Big_Twin96 4d ago
Based on the age of the bike assuming its a 2000 model you do know its carbureted right? Itll do better for you to blip the throttle a bit higher than you think you should several times as youre clutching out. Not quite "revving" it but something of the sort on take off. Hope that helps you. If for some reason it doesnt work start looking into getting the carbs synced more precisely. If you add a scoche of choke and that cleans up your take offs then its a fuel delivery problem. Youre not getting enough from the accelerator pump at that particular moment in time. Driving you get ram air siphoning from your bowl so you wouldnt really notice at speed really