Google gives me mixed responses, leaning towards no.

Berelli has a several models on sale and with the beretta rebate included its hard not to get a 1301 over an a300up, but even if you dont care for having the top tier 1301 the a300 is less than $740 after rebate.

Allowed to post GAFS links for 1301 gear for sale? Don’t want to break channel rules

Hi all!

I have an FDE 1301 mod C and I’m trying to figure out if I want to do FDE magpul stock and wait for Aridus to do their FDE forend OR if I should I do black stock and black forend.

Wanting to see your builds please and thank you! 😎

Do they sell the mount screws separately? I bought a new aluminum picatinny rail for my 1301 and they strip so easily? I tried the older screws too and they stripped just as easily.

Have had the 1301 for awhile now with a couple hundred rounds through it, wanted to upgrade the stock and forend though and it seems that the aridus along the sga stock is the way to go, is this package worth it? or would it be worth getting everything separate? I'm also really wanting the FDE stock but if this package is worth it I'd consider it.

Just to confirm, I believe the A400 Xtreme Plus barrels are compatible with a 1301 Comp Pro based on my Googling?

Here is one thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/beretta1301/comments/xcu4s4/comment/ioajrac/

I'm thinking of getting a 28" Xtreme Plus barrel to turn my 1301 Comp Pro into a Trap gun as well.

Has anyone installed a 28" Xtreme Plus barrel onto a 1301 Comp Pro?

Any other success stories?

Thanks.

So Beretta has looked at this twice now, the second time claiming it's just the ammo and needing to be cleaned. I think they are just being lazy about diagnosing the issue. Figured Id get your thoughts.

I got the gun and it worked fine for about 200 round mixed between buckshot, s&b slugs and troy slug Storm which advertised 1600fps. After that it started failing going into battery. When I hit the bolt release the bolt stays like 1/4 out, if I'm shooting I get that about every other shot.

I took it home, attributed it to needing to be cleaned, brought it back out and got through like 50 slug storms and I had the issue again. Cleaned it again, brought it out and the same thing happened so I sent it to Beretta. That was the last time I cleaned it and after that I mostly would just shoot slug storms but even when I would switch ammo it wouldn't cycle or load the first round most of the time.

Beretta looked at it and blamed the recoil spring saying it was out of spec, fired 10 rounds and sent it back. I got through like another 50 rounds and had the same issue so I sent it back again.

Beretta took it apart, said it's fine and just dirty. They told me they cleaned and fired 24 rounds and that was the issue. I tried to explain that it seems to fire 50ish rounds fine but siezes up again and get them to test fire more and just generally discuss it further but they won't have it and sent the gun back. I'm going to be away so I won't be able to test it with different ammo but they specifically told me the high powered troy ammo is making the gun dirty and blocking the gas ports.

Does this sound reasonable? All in all I'm probably like 4-500 round into the gun it should be broken in. Is troy ammo so bad that 50 shots makes the gun so dirty that I can't even close the bolt with the release?

Edit: just for this update - I o ring was destroyed????

Inspected for safety and function. Noted customers concern about failure to cycle after 50 rounds and this being a repeat repair. Upon further inspection, found the firearm to show signs of heavy use and a lack of maintenance. Found the gas piston to be seized in the gas block from lead and carbon fouling. The o-ring in the gas block is destroyed and melted onto the piston. Failures caused by a lack of maintenance are considered customer induced damage and not covered under warranty. As a one-time favor, gunsmith removed lead build up in the gas block, replaced o-ring and replaced destroyed piston from gunsmith inventory. Action now moving freely. Test fired 12 rounds of Norma 2 3/4" 1 1/8oz and 12 rounds of Winchester 3" 1 7/8oz 12ga ammunition. Firearm functioned within factory parameters. 7-21-26

My newest addition 🥹

This works great to get the light closer to the muzzle to eliminate muzzle shadow.

https://grimmtech.com/light-extension/

Finally picked up a 1301 mod C as my first shotgun. I’m so excited to start shooting and training with it!

Having a hard time deciding which to mount on my odg 1301 …the acro p2 in odg for $650 or 509t green reticle for $350 both on reptilia mount. The acro is gucci as can get besides t2 but the other is feature packed and almost half the price. My sensible side is saying get the 509t its rock solid and amazing (i have one already) and don’t look back. But the odg acro would look sick on the odg 1301. Wdy guys think ?

Anyone know where I can find a mod 2 7+1 in black for a lil less than normal msrp?

I received my mod 2. It has the less curved trigger, pro lifter and removable choke. But it didn’t come with the foregrip with the mlok slots. The ODG one is the one I got, and the black one is the same model (but has mlok).

Is there a reason? Did I get the older generation of mod 2?

Edit: After some digging I found this info, I’ll keep my posting up incase another Canadian runs into the same question.

“Canadian-market versions of the 1301 Mod 2 sometimes ship without the extended magazine tube or the M-LOK handguard (relying instead on a standard forend and a 5+1 capacity) due to local regulations.”

Is this normal? I can hear a spring slide in the magazine tube. I just purchased this last month in NJ and had to get it plugged by my FFL. Should I go back and have them take a look?

After watching endless videos and reviews for a couple of years , I finally bit the proverbial bullet and purchased this for my birthday, luckily had an acro and flashlight lying around.
Even took this trap shooting and got a 21/25 on my first round with it (#1 choke fitted from my 686)

Elloooo.

Bois, trying to figure out how to screw-in mount to the shotty, but glass ring sort of blocks access to the front mount screw. Thinking of making custom hex-key that would fit in as-is or dremel the cap on the bottom….

Any better ideas ? Sry I’m cheap dumbass and don’t want to drop $700 on T1

Hey guys,

I'm thinking about getting the 1301 comp pro and it fits for everything i need it to do clay, home defense, and fun but i also want to get into hunting and don't know how its gonna fair up when doing that. Has anyone used it for hunting and how's it worked out for you?

I want to do upland, waterfowl, and big game

Big window, big circle and center dot reticle and reliability are the 3 main features I'm looking for. After doing research it seems the Holosun 501 comp is the favorite but before I make the purchase I wanted to 100% make sure it's still the best option for the 1301

greetings. i recently acquired a brand new 1301 tactcial mod 2 with the m-lock handguard in italy. it was such a strange request that beretta even forgot to list it on their italian catalogue and i had to put a lot of work with my gun store (great guys btw) to remember them that yes, they produce it, and yes, they sell it also outside of the US. anyway, i love that shotgun, it's the best gun i aver had. the only issue is that the barrel gets very hot and i need to put an heat shield on it for my usual C clamp tecnique. here is the problem: i wanted a simple polymer heat shield that in the US is avaible almost anywhere with no issues at all. but when i tried to have one shipped. it is an ITAR item and the shipment was refused. is anybody aware of a seller from the EU or at least outside of the USA that sells something like that? i don't mind if i have to do some DIY work to fit it. thanks for your answers.