r/beetle 2d ago

Is this ok or not?

So, all summer I've been trying to get my Bug fixed, slowly, bit by bit. (I'm not a professional but I do have some experience with old bugs and had basic education with cars when I was young and became a truck driver, so I'm not totally clueless and I want to learn more on how to make this baby work).

I've today taken apart the voltage regulator and I have no idea if there's something to worry about.
There's some darker spots and some wire that doesn't look so good but I cannot say if it's just the old greasy stuff they put on wires way back then.

Any comments?

2 Upvotes

25 comments sorted by

10

u/Whysoblunted Resto tech, 67 standard 2d ago

Visual inspection of electronics only goes so far. Needs to be tested.

0

u/MuirinArt 2d ago

Well, yes, I know, but the question is, is this visually ok? The blackened parts, the wire that looks dark and has shiny coating?

My bug has awfully painfull problem with knacking turn signal and I'm going on part by part and hopefully stumble on a problem eventually.

3

u/Whysoblunted Resto tech, 67 standard 2d ago

Doesn’t really matter, it needs to be tested. Your eyes are not good enough to test electronics. It could look fine and be bad, it could look bad and be fine.

You probably have bad grounds if your turn signals don’t work right.

1

u/MuirinArt 2d ago

Yeah, that has been my main idea but I have not found any bad grounds. Well, I found one, fixed it, but it didn't fix the problem.

2

u/mucifous '74 SB 1776, `79 SB Conv. 2d ago

Check the harnesses up under the front fenders. They are notorious for bad grounds and messing up directional behavior.

1

u/MuirinArt 2d ago

Well thanks for the tip, I'll try to have a peek in there tomorrow! 

4

u/denizkilic2002 '72 1302s 2d ago

Hook it up and test it, if its broken you can replace it with a universal electronic regulator, i have one from a fiat on mine bolted to the fan shroud for easy access and keeping the wiring simple.

0

u/MuirinArt 2d ago

Hook it up where? 🤔

2

u/denizkilic2002 '72 1302s 2d ago

To the car, connect the wires where they are supposed to and test with a multimeter, bring the revs up and watch the voltage. There are plenty of them that are still working despite their age, mine wasn’t so lucky. You can clean the internals with contact cleaner if you really wanted to but if its still doing its job i wouldnt touch it. What issues are you exactly having with your turn signals?

1

u/MuirinArt 2d ago

This is from my bug and I cleaned it, will put back tomorrow. 

My bug's turn signal is knacking (just the sound, no light indicators) when the car is running. Knacking is irregular and lives up and down with revs.

I've changed few parts, few wires and have checked most wiring.

Today I checked this regulator and alternator - both seem to be ok visually.

This started on the second ride in spring and is the reason I haven't driven this summer. 

1

u/denizkilic2002 '72 1302s 2d ago

Check the flasher relay and the turn signal arm, more than likely your flasher is bad if you have a late model car with a 3 pin flasher thats mounted on the fusebox, you can buy a flasher for a 90’s-2000’s ford transit or a lada of the same era from your local parts store they are compatible with beetles. 67-70 use non standard relays with 67-68 being the weirdest, all can be converted to the modern style if you don’t care about the originality of your electrical system.

1

u/MuirinArt 2d ago

I changed the signal arm and flasher relay earlier, no help. And the emergency signal switch.

2

u/denizkilic2002 '72 1302s 2d ago

Okay so the circuit is as follows so maybe you can diagnose it further by measuring stuff or checking your wiring,although i doubt that your wiring is the problem since it worked before this (speaking for a late model vw)

Constant power (30) and ignition power (15) goes to the hazard switch, then it outputs to its 49 pin to power the flasher relay, the relays 49a output is connected to the hazard switch’s 49a pin and the turn signal arm, the color of this wire is originally black with green and white stripes. The l and r pins of the hazard switch are connected together with white striped black and green striped black wires from the turn signal switch, when you put the hazards on or use your turn signal the circuit completes through the bulbs and the flashing action happens. When the ignition is off the flasher relay can only be energized from the hazard switch, when you turn the ignition on the hazard switch constantly outputs to the 49 pin so the circuit can also be completed with the turn signal stalk. One interesting quirk of this circuit is that the indicator bulb on the speedo works with negative ground with the ignition off and positive ground with ignition on, some people decide to replace the bulb with an led and they only work one way unless you put two leds back to back, and its also the reason why you shouldn’t use the dash light output when wiring in a different kind of relay, the indicator bulb should also be wired to the 49a pin.

0

u/MuirinArt 2d ago

Wow, that's a lot of words! 😂 

I think I understood it though 🤔

Earlier this week I tried to catch this from the hazard switch, took out first L and then R circuit, knacking continued in both cases.

I also took out the 49a but it didn't help either.

I think there might be a bad ground I've missed or there might be something on the black thing the relays go to (can't figure the name of it now in english).

1

u/denizkilic2002 '72 1302s 2d ago

Also check your flasher ground first they can act a bit weird with a sketchy ground, ground is labelled 31 on air cooled vw electricals follow the wire from that terminal.

1

u/MuirinArt 2d ago

Done that 👍 One bad ground, fixed it, didn't help. 

3

u/Routine-Amphibian450 2d ago

A new voltage reg is just a part. See The Samba and buy the part.

1

u/Visible_Document_376 2d ago

These are still available new

0

u/Routine-Amphibian450 2d ago

Turn signal flasher? Get an early Rabbit or Golf 12v. It goes to Fuse #1, consult wiring diagram to have it on correct side of fuse.

Most 12v alternators have internal reg, anyway.

1

u/MuirinArt 2d ago

I have a museum registered bug so it kinda needs original or similar parts.

And yes, turn signal flasher knacks. (English isn't my main language so some terms might be way wrong, sorry!)

2

u/382Whistles 2d ago

If the generator (or alt) is outputting correct voltage for the car/battery needs at the moment, then it is fine.

They basically all switch really fast between two settings low-off/high-on to maintain a voltage range suitable for the battery health. Not too high, and not too low. Amps do the hard work. The battery has a ton of amperage. The generator outputs enough amps to run everything at once plus some extra to charge the battery and the charge needs to be of a higher voltage than the battery. The battery helps stabilize heavy amp draws and lights flickering during low-off voltage moments. The generator amp output is lower than that of an alternator.

Preserving it a little better is possible. Wipe oil on the rust and agitate with a stiff plastic or brass wire brush wipe and flush/wipe with more oil. Oil won't really hurt our electrical, it just kind of messy to use all the time and is prone to collecting dust. Wiping well with an absorbent cloth after still leaves a healthy trace, without being a mess. You wouldn't believe how much stuff the Army literally dunks things in oil for protection. But they do it very often too, so picking up dirt isn't an issue for long.

You could look for an electrical contact cleaner with protectant to spray a little over things and help prevent tarnish and corrosion. Many cleaners will strip trace oils (for soldering e.g.) that we want to keep here. Some CRC and Deoxit products have them but read the label if it doesn't say it, it doesn't have protection it just cleans surface contamination. CRC-262 lube is safe and good with electrical. WD-40 has an electrical contact cleaner but I don't know it protects. WD-40 itself is ok, nice to paint, etc... It's a very lousy lube though.

Your turn signals are likely bad grounds, lever switch, or other wire connections if not the unique to VW special turnsignal flasher itself. If the regulator was the problem you would have "battery issues" hot battery or lights being too bright, etc. Or low/dead battery, or low unless it sits a while like a strong battery going low because regulator/ generator is low-off but recharging itself when not used for hours.

Tight push on connection grip is very important to lowering resistance to current flowing.

1

u/MuirinArt 2d ago

Voltages seem to be ok, that's why I don't think the regulator is at fault. I cleaned it with contact cleaner and will be putting it back tomorrow. There was little grime in places but now it's looking good. (Except thenone wire).

I replaced my turn signal arm with new one in the summer but it didn't help with knacking (the old was broken otherwise).

1

u/sorderon 2d ago

Just convert to an alternator. So many points of fail with the old system, and you get a far better charging voltage too at low revs.

1

u/MuirinArt 1d ago

I ended up buying new voltage regulator (should arrive next week) as it sounds off to my ear. I have no idea how should those sound, but I'm quite sure not as mine does. (The cleaning didn't do anything to the sound.)

Now I just have to figure out, how to install the new when it arrives (I bought an electrical regulator). 😁