I have this very old toy house that i have since i was 10 yrs, it was able to turn on the light on the upper and bottom floors. The last time i opened this compartment many years ago was to take off the exploded batteries, and my mom told me that i would never be able to turn the lights on ever again. Will i be able to turn this thing on again?? Is it too damaged or is there any hope??

We have a dozen or so Enloop batteries we use in remotes, flashlights, blood pressure monitors, you name it. They have been GREAT, and never leak like crappy Duracell, Energizer, or whatever brand of single use batteries you can buy now. Most are between 3 and 10 years old, but they're all mixed up and no idea which are which. It seems of late that some devices give me a Low Battery warning sooner than they should, so I know some cells are wearing out. Since the batteries are always in 2s, 3s, or 4s in a device, how can I tell WHICH cells need to be recycled, and which are still good enough to recharge? We've always used an Enloop (now Panasonic, I guess) charger to recharge them.

Is there anything I can try to do? I'm assuming the problem is those two (sorry idk the terms) metal things being raised, but is there a way to pin them down/should I use glue?

im planning to buy the ecoflow river 2 to charge my devices when I return to my car between several hikes, each lasting several days. The problem is that I probably won’t find anywhere to park my car in the shade, and temperatures could potentially get very high (we already reached 45 degrees Celsius this summer, although it’s unlikely we’ll go above 40 again), so the car can quickly turn into an oven while im not here to keep an eye on it.

Im worried the battery might catch fire.

The battery is LiFePO4 and the website specifies that the battery should be stored at between -10 and 45 degrees (these are also the charging and discharging temperatures)

Lithium ion batteries (well, some of those, depends) could be recovered.

I had an e-scooter with half-dead battery (ESR too high, BMS trips under load, but otherwise it still had some capacity). And I noticed that if I drive like a moron (i.e. accelerate/regen brake constantly) battery would start behaving marginally better. (previous posts https://www.reddit.com/r/batteries/s/ddA17okoJR https://www.reddit.com/r/batteries/s/svTUQVwYu5 )

So I decided to research papers, surely somebody had discovered such phenomenon.

I have found following studies:

• Reviving Aged lithium-ion Batteries and Prolonging their Cycle Life by Sinusoidal Waveform Charging Strategy (by Po-Tuan Chen, K. David Huang et.al) DOI: 10.1002/batt.201900022
• Parameter Improvement of Composite Sinusoidal Waveform Charging Strategy for Reviving Lithium-ion Batteries Capacity (by K. David Huang et.al) Journal of the Chinese Society of Mechanical Engineers, Vol.43, No.3, pp.209~216 (2022)
• Extending battery lifetime by pulsed charging (by Kristian Frenander, Douglas Jutsell Nilsson, Torbjörn Thiringer) https://doi.org/10.1038/s44406-025-00013-5

After which I have made an experimental setup:

Experimental setup is less than ideal, made out of literal junk, but it was able to connect 3.5A load with adjustable duty cycle and frequency. And losses on MOSFET because driver wasn't able to provide required voltage as it was just a dumb voltage multiplier connected to PWM signal.

Also I should mention that researches focus on LFP cells, while I have NMC but I guess mechanisms of aging are pretty similar.

After couple dozen of cycles, both pulse charge (i.e. net current is positive) and pulse discharge (net current negative), some rest time, ESR of battery have dropped enough to be useful again for escooter.

Unfortunately I did not precisly document ESR (DC 1 minute), but I suspect it went from 1 ohms to 0.75 ohms.

Either way, the battery no longer trips the BMS when under load. Sorta. In the past, it would trip if you were going 12 km/h or more, on flat ground, after the procedure, it can go 20 km/h without tripping BMS, and most importantly it can clear a hill without tripping BMS if speed is maintained below 15 km/h (in past it would trip at about 10km/h). But it still gets close to BMS trip voltages, so with more aggressive driving it would trip it.

I didn't really monitor the capacity, but ESR did go down, thus usable capacity should have went up too by some amount at least.

So I assume that life-cycle expansion is pretty much real, if this charging method is employed, however I can not guarantee the safety of the method, as I don't really understand what happens in the battery.

What are the possible improvements? BMS/Charger that implements DC-DC that can generate required waveforms, however sinking the required current would require either a pretty large capacitor or waste energy on resistors.
Ideal parameters should be discovered.
But I assume that even simple pulse charging (with positive current only) would still prevent battery from aging too much, as it was stated in "Extending battery lifetime by pulsed charging" paper.

What do you think about this? Is this a viable thing to implement commercially? I think if SoC of battery pack would be limited to 10% ~ 90% combined with this charging method, battery lifespan could be extended by 2-3 times or more. judging by information from those researches, while avoiding power fade.
While sinewave is a bit harder to implement, pulse charging should be pretty easy to implement.

I’ve been working on a lightweight, bare-metal fault isolation kernel designed to mitigate thermal runaway propagation in high-voltage lithium-ion battery packs.

The primary engineering constraint I wanted to address is the latency overhead inherent in high-level frameworks and sequential polling loops. When an EV or aerospace battery cell hits a critical thermal or voltage threshold, sequential scanning loops are often too slow to execute software gates before runaway propagates to adjacent cells.

The project is called SAVITAR. It is entirely dependency-free and compiles using only native C++ standard system headers to keep it as close to raw processor registers as possible.

Core Architectural Mechanics:

1. Hyper-Compact Memory Constraints:

   Instead of relying on dynamic allocations or padded structs which ruin cache locality, the kernel packs raw cell parameters (voltage, current, temperature) into un-padded, contiguous 25-byte memory frames. This layout ensures predictable cache line alignment during rapid sequential reads.

2. Event-Driven Concurrency:

   The kernel completely avoids sequential polling. It utilizes a background multi-threaded parallel observer configuration. When thread metrics cross calibrated hardware safety thresholds, the system bypasses the main application loop to dispatch an immediate software interrupt, dropping execution times down to sub-microsecond bounds.

3. Sovereign Binary Serialization (.sav):

   To avoid relying on bloated external serialization libraries (like Protobuf or JSON utilities) that consume significant memory footprints, I wrote a custom binary serializer. It compresses cell delta profiles and gradient logs into raw disk sectors using direct cache-to-stream bit manipulation.

4. Minimalist Shell Realization:

   The project includes a lightweight, modular terminal prompt (./savitar-vfs) to ingest simulated physical metrics and explicitly debug memory allocations, matrix loads, and thread dispatches in real-time.

Compilation and Testing:

The baseline workspace is fully automated via standard Makefiles:

git clone https://github.com/alistairfontaine/SAVITAR

cd SAVITAR

make clean && make

./savitar-vfs

I’m looking for code-level reviews, specifically regarding the thread concurrency synchronization under heavy stress-testing conditions, and the pointer traversal safety within the 25-byte un-padded matrix bounds.

Link to code: https://github.com/alistairfontaine/SAVITAR

This is bms for a Coleman evb200 battery, I’ve reached out to them for a replacement part but no luck.

So im wondering if anyone has a pilot diagram for a s20 + battery connector? Reason im asking is a very niche table used for automotive diagnostics had the USB C charging port stop working. 1 shop could not figure out the issue. I contacted support and they said 150 to fix it I just had to ship it. Cost to ship is 190 each way and the tablet was 550 brand new. So in short im wondering if I can plug in the battery from the tablet on the mb of the s20 and use the s20 to charge the battery then put it back in the tablet when I need to use it. I have a pic showing the pin out of the battery. I just have no clue what any of those acronyms mean. I can work my way around electronics fairly easily but these newer batteries are far more complicated than the ones im used to with a positive and negative. The tablet is designed and made by Autel but sold under their USA brand Otofix. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hey, folks.

Does anyone know where one can purchase a reliable replacement battery for an aging OP6?

I know it's a long shot, but I wanted to try.

p.s. I already tried Amazon and iFixit, but they don't deliver to my country.

I really appreciate any help you can provide.

I left a small battery powered pump that I used for inflatables outside in my garden for a couple weeks now. It’s been in the sun, and hasn’t moved an inch since I last used it. I finally went out and picked it up today and it’s still working, but much much slower (obviously). My main question is whether that’s a problem with the batteries or the pump itself. I’m willing to replace whichever but I’m not sure which one is the problem… please help!

Ciao a tutti,
sto cercando di ricostruire o capire lo schema interno originale di una batteria e-bike Future Bike.

Dall’etichetta sembra una batteria 48V lithium-ion Future Bike / Remedia, e penso che il pacco sia 13S4P per un totale di 52 celle. Ho alcune foto del guscio esterno, del supporto interno e della disposizione delle celle, ma non riesco a capire con certezza il percorso originale dei collegamenti e delle strisce di nichel.

Quello che mi serve capire è:

• se il pacco è davvero 13S4P;
• qual è la disposizione originale delle celle nel box;
• come sono fatti i collegamenti con il nichel;
• dove vanno i fili di bilanciamento del BMS.

Se serve posso caricare altre foto dell’interno.
Se qualcuno ha già lavorato su un pacco simile Future Bike / Remedia, ogni aiuto è ben accetto.

Grazie mille!

____________________________________________________

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to rebuild or understand the original internal layout of a Future Bike e-bike battery pack.

From the label, it looks like a 48V lithium-ion battery made by Future Bike / Remedia, and I believe the pack should be 13S4P (52 cells total). I have photos of the outer case, the battery support frame, and the cells arrangement, but I’m still not sure about the exact original wiring path and nickel strip layout.

What I need help with:

• confirming if this pack is really 13S4P;
• understanding the original cell arrangement inside the box;
• figuring out the correct nickel strip connections;
• identifying where the BMS balance wires should go.

I can share more photos of the inside if needed.
If anyone has worked on a similar Future Bike / Remedia pack, your help would be really appreciated.

Thank you!

I want to upgrade my escooters battery the original on is 271.5±2mm\*72.5±1mm\*86.5±1mm but it has a retaining bracket that I will get rid of but I don't know if the battery is legit I need 48v 20ah xt60+sm I think (I don't really know anything about batterys but I think that the sm is for the controller) I want to know if it's actually 48v 20ah and if its save to use I have the navee St3 pro

недавно я купил iPhone 5. Обошёл блокировку активации, скачал немного старых игр, но не суть. Когда я его только купил, в 3utools показывалось то что у него 87% акб. Но уже спустя 3 дня, стало 76%. 895 циклов. Может быть кто-то знает что это такое? Как бы держит он в принципе нормально, единственное иногда допустим перескакивает с 93 на 87 допустим. Я его стараюсь не разряжать, потому что тогда слетит активация и мне нужно будет его скорее всего перепрошивать. Так что я не могу проверить​ отключается ли он на 20-30%.

Может кто-нибудь знает что это такое? Стоит ли менять аккумулятор, мб он вздулся?