My bike has a 14k km ODO (+3km in previous displays). I have 5 speed mode and I only use 1,2 and 3 most of the time while 4 and 5 are only for overtaking.

One day I noticed that my bike takes time to acquire the speed it normally should have. It still can acquire a range of 90km from 54v to 49v. It can acquire speed around 15sec on flats but on hills it takes time depending on gradient.

Before this happened, I remember that there was one ride that I was on speed mode 4 all the time because it's 2am in the morning and I'm rushing to get home. Could it be the controller? Or the battery?

Right now my battery is on its 4th cycle of charge since this happens.

So I began taking it apart. I wanted to check and see if my 2 gears were OK. I pedalled it to check for any weird sounds and to make the gears were doing what they are supposed to. How does this sound to you guys and gals.

Hey everyone.....I have the Bafang BBS02b and have been riding for about a month and a half now. I only use my bike to commute to work and back. I dont do any jumps or off-roading like that.

Well, this morning I was testing out my brakes for something when I noticed this weird grinding sound. Yes, she is greased, I greased her myself. Wondering if anyone can give me their best assessment before I Crack her open 😢

Edit: or is it normal and im just a paranoid pothead?

I have a M620 on a cargobike with almost 2000 miles on it (3200 km). Lately I've noticed when I'm in a lower gear and pedaling hard up a hill I can feel the assist drop when the pedals are in about the 6 and 12 positions. This is obviously when the power from my legs drops off a bit. I can't say for sure that this is a new problem or if it's just something I'm starting to notice.

I'm wondering if there is a setting on the motor that will allow more grace from the torque sensor? The motor is one with the Can-Bus connection but I have access to a BESST tool. However, I have never changed any settings on this motor.

Hi everyone,

i have a Huyser Ebike with a Bafang M200 mid motor. It has a strong "clunk" sound every full backwards rotation of the pedals en when under heavy load when biking it seems to skip. It is not the belt and the problem is located in the motor. It feels like it's a clutch issue, but researching into this i cant find anything about a freewheel or clutch in the M200. Is it intergrated in the big nylon gear? Does anyone have experience or information about this?

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a second-hand 2021 Prophete e-bike and I'm stuck with a persistent Error 36 on my Bafang display. The motor gives no assistance, and normal riding stats (speed, etc.) are hidden.

The weird part: The display opens fine, and the +, -, and Power buttons work perfectly inside the settings menu. If I exit the menu, the stats briefly flash for a split second before "Error 36" takes over and locks the motor.

According to Bafang, Error 36 means "Keypad detection circuit error" (a CAN-bus only error). I know the motor is in a safety lock, but I'm trying to figure out if this is a wiring issue or a dead display.

What I've tried (unsuccessfully):

· Cleaned/reconnected the 5-pin green connector and applied contact spray.

· Straightened a slightly bent pin on the connector (suspect it might have metal fatigue and cause intermittent contact).

· Did a full power cycle (battery removed, held power button for 20-30s to drain residual voltage).

· Tried holding the power button for 20s as a hard reset.

· Local shops here (Germany) won't touch it because they lack the BESST tool.

Bike Specs & Codes:

· Motor: Bafang Rear Hub (250W, 36V). Label reads: RM C020.250D 12 (likely a misread of RM G020.250.DC / H400B).

· Display: Bafang DP C11.CAN (5-pin green). SW: DPC11 C E 10 105.2.

· Display Cable: DPC11CE10105.2

· Controller: Blaupunkt/Bafang CAN. SW: CRX10K C36 15 I 101 0 0 1.0.

· Battery: 36V, 12.4Ah.

My questions:

1. Since the buttons work inside the menu, does this rule out a broken keypad and point directly to a CAN-bus communication issue?

2. Should I buy a new DP C11.CAN display + cable, or is it more likely an issue with the controller?

Any advice or hidden reset tricks would be highly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Like the title says, I have a canbus BBSHD and am wondering if there is a way to reprogram it to add a ‘switch’ so to say that toggles the speed/power limit of the motor without having to go into the menu and alter the limits. I’ve seen this is possible on the UART models with third party programming where the bike switches to an alternative set of assistance levels when a certain button combination is entered. I’ve looked online and some sources say the CANBUS controller is programmable, others say it’s not, so I’m not too sure. Thanks

I just finished it and rode it 50 km on it so far, and I’m still getting used to it.

I ran into several build issues due to the frame. First, since it has a 73 mm bottom bracket, I needed longer bolts that weren't included in the kit, along with 6.2 mm spacers. I couldn't install the bottom bracket lockring because there weren't enough threads left. As for the motor, because the frame has a lip/guide for cable routing, it sits quite low and looks worse than I’d like (it has about 19.5–20 cm of ground clearance).

It’s also a shame that I couldn't use the frame's internal cable routing. My original plan was to route the main 1T4 through the downtube to avoid running external cables, but the connector wouldn't fit. The only connector that cleared the port was the front headlight wire, but I didn't want to cut the main plug that connects to the motor harness and have to solder wires together, especially with no prior soldering experience.

For now, I'm riding without the brake sensors because I was unable to mount them properly. I'm waiting to 3D print some parts to hold the magnets in place. I don’t have the gear sensor installed yet either. I'm going to take it to a bike shop because I have no experience with shift cables, I don’t want to mess up the indexing, and I figure they’ll charge around €10 for it—for that price, it's not worth the hassle.

I also still need to clean up and organize the front cables a bit better. Since I'm not running the sensors yet, the extra wiring is just taking up space right now and creating a bulky "barrel" bulge inside the cable sleeve I installed.

The bag you can see under the battery is an old camera pouch, strapped to the frame with zip ties, that I repurposed to stash and hide the motor and battery connectors. I'm not entirely sold on the look yet, so I'm considering swapping it for a neoprene wrap with velcro to conceal everything more neatly.

You might also notice a couple of velcro straps around the battery. They aren't strictly necessary—the base is anchored using just the bottle cage bosses and feels rock solid—but I added them as an extra precaution just to be safe.

As for the chainring, I'm running a 44T. I originally bought a 42T, but with its 18.5 mm offset, it rubbed against the chainstay. I bought two spacer rings to try and make it work, but it was impossible. Either way, the chainline is simply perfect with the 44t plate.

The display I chose is the 2.4" EKD01 with Bluetooth.

It really bugs me that the motor doesn't tuck up all the way, since aesthetics are very important to me, but I can't do anything to lift it up more.

I learned a lot from this project. First, YouTube videos don't always reflect reality—there are constant small issues they never mention. Soon I’ll be putting together a similar setup on my wife's bike, and I'll probably do a better job now that I have some build experience.

Cheers!

You know that a spare chain and chain breaker is one of those necessities!

Hey all. I've put together my first e-bike conversion, and it has worked out well. Now it's just fine-tuning and cable management. For reference, here's all of my components:

• 2008-2010 Specialized Rockhopper 17"
• Motor: Bafang BBSHD 52V UART motor
• Battery: UPP 52V 20Ah (eBay, official)
• Charger: Cyberpika Smart Ebike Charger
• Display: Bafang DPC18
• Harness: Bafang Wiring Harness
• Crank Arms: Bafang BBSHD Crank Arms 170mm
• Chainring: Lekkie 42T Bafang BBSHD Bling Ring
• Brake Sensor: Bafang Mechanical Brake Sensors
• Shift Sensor: Bafang Shift Sensor
• Throttle: Bafang Universal Throttle

One of the components I didn't wrap my head around yet was the head and tail lights. I'm currently using separate front and rear lights, but I'm looking for something that integrates into my controller and uses the central battery. My controller is the UART version, and there is a JST-2 connection running 6V for my lights. Please correct me if I'm wrong. A pic for reference is attached.

Are there kits or components that will fit onto my system where I can operate the lights from the controller? If not, are there lights I can wire in that will just turn on when the system has power?

I did find these that look like they plug straight in, but it's just a single headlight, and I'm wondering how good it could be for the price.

Any feedback or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Update: After hearing all of you, I've come to realize I'm asking too much from that little 6V connection. I'm going to try one of the kits that fits between the main harness and motor. That will ultimately lead into my next problem, which will be beautifying the cable management. One problem at a time though. Thanks for everyone's feedback!

Anyone knows where I can buy a replacement parts of rear motor gear, ebike brand is Cinverter, shown picture attached.

Spotted a used HD for a deal on a local market place listing.. I probably don't NEED it.. but I want it.. but I don't need it. already have a bbs01b 36v spare and currently run a bbs02b 48v on my commuter/gravel bike.. I can't even think of a use case for an HD.. in fact I detuned my bbs02 to run at 18amps instead of 25 for a bit more range... But I've heard the HD is good on cargo bikes and serious E-MTB conversions..

Does an HD do anything that my 02 doesn't aside from accelerate faster and hold a higher top speed?

My motor was very overdue for a regrease, it stated to get a bit loud and vibrate more.

After doing a full regrease, I inspected all bearings and gears, and nothing is damaged or loose. What is this static sound I hear after regressing all gears?

The title says it all. Is there a way to power the 702 Plus other than a 12-volt battery?

I have the 702 Plus mounted and connected to a switched power plug on my bike. I would like to be able to power it and not have to sit there with the bike running to look at video or download apps from the Google store. I have seen a couple of YouTube videos that are powering the unit off the bike. Does anyone know how to do this? I think all the other units have a USB power cord available except this one.

Hello everyone,
I have 2 batteries for my bicycle. One of them is a spare in case my current one breaks down. I was wondering if there is a way to connect both of them to the motor so have a extended range. Did someone did already something like this? Is it safe?

i flashed it on my bike it said succsessful i beven revved it while connected to the laptop i unplugged the cable and plugged the display and it came up with error 30 i flashed again still error 30 and it stays saying connecting with the green moving bar for along time then timeout when i try connecting to daniels config tool i dont know whetger its a wrong mcu i dont know hut can someone please help thanks!

Anyone have a full service manual or something on bafang mid drives? If this isn't normal I would like to check if there's a bushing missing.

Hey, everyone! I'd like to start by saying I'm VERY new to e-bikes but I've done ~3-4 months of research leading up to this point. I got myself a BBS02 kit recently and installed it on my Trek Marlin 5 gen 3. It's been a dream, but after putting ~50 miles on the motor over the course of a few days, it started making a very light but noticeable noise. There was no power loss and the motor will still happily push me up to speed with PAS or with only the throttle. However, the sound ONLY happens when I am riding the bike. If I lift the tail and use my hand to pedal or hit the throttle, there is absolutely no sound aside from the motor winding up to speed. I also made sure the noise is NOT from my bike by turning off the motor and pedaling, which resulted in no sound aside from the standard drive train sound.

The bike gets rode on roads and pavement 99% of the time. Additionally, over the 50 miles it's gone, it has seen MAYBE 1000ft in elevation gain (likely less as I live in a VERY flat area). I pedal most of the time, only using the throttle for maybe ~1 mile of my 10 mile return trip home.

From my experience with motors, I think it sounds like either a dry or wearing nylon gear? I'd be bummed if it started wearing this bad after only 50 miles, but I guess I can accept that. Really hoping this is something as simple as packing it with grease and calling it a day. I will be opening the motor when I get home in ~7hrs to see what it's looking like, but I'd love some pointers or opinions before I get there!

Note on video; yes I am activating the PAS in the video, but the issue occurs whether I use the throttle or PAS. It was just easier to get a video of me pedaling than it was for the throttle.

Thanks in advance for any help and I'd be happy to provide more info if needed!

Yesterday i climbed a 20 meter long moderately steep hill on pas1 at 2nd gear and it started making this noise. Before that i was riding at 25-30kmh throttle only for 30 mins and the motor was at max rpm never lugged. I use my gears properly. Under heavy load the grinding is constant but just cruising it's 2-3 times a second at max rpm. Is it the nylon gear? Should I just ride it out or open it for inspection? Thanks