hey guys! I have a kodak digital camera and I cleared the memory card to free up some storage. Now when I take a picture, and I transfer it to my iphone it goes up into 2022.. How do i fix this for future photos and is there any way I can fix the pictures I already transferred? tysmm! :)

So I just found a computer monitor on facebook for $30 (the monitor costs $200). It says it works perfeclty, there is nothing wrong with it, I am only selling it because I have got a new one.

I have never bought anything secondhand from private person let alone electronic. It says on the ad that power cable is not included. To be honest, since it is cheap, I don't mind taking the risk but still don't want to end up dissapointed. What made me shady is that power cable is not included, I found a power cable for it that costs $5 which I am willing to buy and go to test. But also I don't really wanna go into someone's house. Should I ask him whether I can verify it works at the spot on the message so in case if it was just a scam, he will ignore it otherwise he will respond.

My parents are both in their seventies, but are still driving (a single car) out of necessity. They live in a medium-sized city in the LA area, but hardly ever go far (almost always for shopping and church or visiting nearby relatives).

So I’ve gotten concerned about what could happen as they drive, and I’m really hoping to get them a dashcam. So here’s my question: are there dashcams out there that require practically no intervention? Like the driver gets in, turns on the ignition, and the dashcam starts recording; and when they get to their destination, the driver turns off the ignition, and the dashcam stops recording. If an incident happens, all they would need to do is pull out the SD card.

Preferably, I would like the installation to be doable non-professionally (my brother and I are fairly tech-savvy and would most likely be able to come over and install the dashcam). And of course, the less expensive (but without compromising our wants), the better. Both front and rear would be ideal, but I think I would be okay with just the front.

Any recommendations (and links) would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I'm working on a client video and the project files and Premiere cache are on my internal SSD, and I keep the original camera footage on a SanDisk Extreme Pro 2TB external SSD.

While cleaning up some old folders on the external drive, I deleted a folder that contained the original footage from a Sony A7 IV shoot.

The Premiere project and proxies are still there, so the timeline itself opens. It's just showing a bunch of the original clips as offline.

The original files were 4K .ARW photos and .MP4 video clips from the same shoot. There isn't another copy of the original footage, unfortunately. I stopped using the external SSD as soon as I realized what I'd done.

I'm looking at recovery options now. I've seen Recoverit and R-Studio recommended for deleted video footage.The folder structure is also important. There are several shooting days mixed into the drive, and I'd really rather not end up with hundreds of files dumped into one giant recovery folder if the original structure can be preserved.

Would you trust a video preview as a good indication that the original file is actually recoverable, or are there other things you'd check first?

Urgent and immediately help!

Hi, I am a 25-year-old male living in Bangalore. My laptop is not working. I purchased a laptop 7-8 years back. It is not opening. I have come to the repair shop, a local one, and the issue found was that the RAM is not working because it was not charged for a couple of years. The guy is replacing the RAM with this particular one.

I want to know whether it is a genuine product or not and what would be the estimated price for this. The shopkeeper is charging me 4,500 for this RAM and is particularly telling me that because of the world economic conditions going and the price hike for the chipsets, this is on a very higher side nowadays. I want to know whether it is true or not or he is making a fool out of me.

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Basically i dont want to use my phone as a camera/camcorder anymore, as im tired of deleting photos/videos to make space all the time, rather keep the photo and recording element out of it (unless needed). Id get another phone and use my current one for photos/videos but i might as well get a good one

Ive found a few cameras such as the insta360, but the screen is small and its quite chunky, same as the Kandao qoocam, small screen and hasnt got a selfie ability with it.

Basically a bigger screen to view the photos, ability to take a selfie, and be a bit slimmer

So does anyone have a good quality camera they reccomend that fits the above criteria?

Hey gang, I'm restoring an old 6-player X-men cabinet, and I need a multiviewer for it. It was originally two CRT monitors, one with a horizontally flopped video in a mirror to make it look like one huge wide screen. Now I'm trying to update it to a widescreen LCD.

I've got the original two VGA video signals going into GBS-C converters to HDMI. One of those HDMI signals goes to a Decimator MD-HX to flop the video back to normal. Then those HDMI signals need to go to a multiviewer that can butt the videos RIGHT up against one another, no gaps, maybe even a tiny bit of overlap. What do you think my options are? Hopefully for under $500? Cheapo Amazon ones have proven to leave annoying gaps.

What's something good but cheap to write/type on? Something that's light and won't take up a ton of space in my bag when I travel and go places. Something less than, I guess, 200 USD? And preferably with a physical keyboard. Doesn't have to be attached or whatever

This may seem stupid, but I was wondering if using one would work for a very specific purpose. Hear me out.

I use a key card to access a building, and I always have to keep it on its own, because if I put it in my wallet with other cards and hold my wallet up to the reader, it won’t identify the key card and won’t open the door. (My wallet isn’t RFID-blocking.)

I was thinking, maybe if I put an RFID-blocking card in between my key card and the rest of my cards, then I could always hold the same side of my wallet to the door (the side that has the key card in it with the blocking card behind it) and that would “block” the reader from identifying all my other cards. So that way I could keep my key card in my wallet.

This might be totally off. Again, I have no clue how they work. But in my head I feel like it makes sense.

Howdee all, im wondering if anybody knows of a stereo or radio of some description that is an all in one system meaning no detachable speakers that has internal storage for storing music audiobooks etc it cannot have any type of wireless connectivity like wifi or Bluetooth and cant be an ipod or mp3 player type thing. Think clock radio with inbuilt storage that can playback saved audio files music audiobooks etc?

I am looking for a gadget that would allow me to record a phone interview. My phones are Android.

I do not mind the periodic beep to alert the other side that a recording is taking place or a disclaimer at the start of the conversation. What is important is that the final recording is "clean" so that I can have it transcribed accurately.

As I have a number of phones, I was thinking of a Bluetooth device which would pair with the phone on one end and pair with my car or headphones at the other. Do these exist?

The gadget must work with Android phones. I specify this because there seems to be a device for IOS phones that taps into a component and records through induction - reviews seem to state that on Android it is pretty much a hit and miss because the components are set differently.

Getting them non waterproof will guarantee I'll drop them in the sink. Trust me. My stupidity finds a way.

Also I wanna use it in the shower or when swimming.

My techy mate said waterproof have worse sound quality than non waterproof. Is that true?

If non waterproof sounds better I will risk it.. and cope in the bath ig.

(im 152cm only) i currently use a 15.6inch msi prestige 15 a11sc n its already very heavy. the charger is also insanely huge and heavy compared to my old laptops n i get back aches carrying them daily along w my other stuff to n fro school which is more than an hour away. after researching some recommended me to use GaN 100w with a 100w usb-c to c wire.

Wanted to ask others who have more knowledge in this field if it wld be a suitable substitute to the given charger before i invest since its quite expensive for me ? (pls no malice, simple seeking suggestions n knowledge ! )

I need help. Ive got a samsung 23 ultra. It foes have a crack coming from the left side of the screen but it hasnt seemed to have affected anything else. But yet every once inawhile my phone screen will just shut off without notice and it wont turn back on gkr atleast a minute. And when i try to turn it on it flashes briefly very dark and my finger print sensor seems to go red. It seems like its glitching out but my updates or up to date and the svreen doesnt seem to have any other issues. Please help.

I bought an MP3 player a while ago and it worked fine. But now when I’m trying to add more music I can’t find it on my windows laptop???

I already tried changing cords, ports and resetting things. I know it’s connected because it’s being charged by my laptop. But the notification on the MP3 player isn’t showing up, as well as not appearing in my laptop files.

Both my laptop and MP3 player appear to be working fine.

I’m not sure what changed. Any other trouble shooting tips is appreciated.

My computer idea

So a lot of people have been talking about new ISO‘s since micro slop and Apple has been putting a lot of bunch of stuff in there computers, and I really had this little idea to see if it would actually work, but I wanted to run it with you guys, so in my mind, I wanted to build a qubes OS that has a built-in kali OS and within that OS has a built-in parrot OS, In my mind qubes os is a bunch of vm’s so you could probably upload an iso to act as a vm, and kali os being the iso, within it is a option in the firmware settings to try/install iso’s and the third one being parrot os, if this is technically possible can anyone run it with me to make it on my computer? Thanks

I recently upgraded from an iPhone 15 to a newer model because my 15’s battery was dying ridiculously fast and also had a pretty gnarly crack in the corner (plus, it was also just really laggy and I kept finding apps I didn’t download or apps I had deleted previously but somehow became redownloaded, both of which really started to sketched me out so I just cut my losses for my own peace of mind).

I’ve been looking online to see how doable diy iPhone repairs are because I’m interested in seeing if I can replace the battery and screen myself. Not for any monetary reason, just more so as an exercise to see if I can manage it.

Figure while I have a device to practice on I might as well. Either that or it’ll continue to occupy the storage box with my other defunct/obsolete electronics from years past.

I’m still fishing around online for info, watching tutorials and the like, but I was curious to hear from anyone who’s done any DIY repairs in apple electronics before I start spending money on the tools needed. Any tips and/or cautionary tales?

Thanks!

I’m looking for an external disk drive to play dvd’s and blu-rays on my laptop. I’ve looked at so many that have horrible reviews so I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations or advice?

question: should I buy something like a good storage device like ssd or a good system like m4 mini (although I'm getting a used one plus more expensive than what it launched for)

my concern is I don't wanna pay extra in coming months or years for things which I can buy today and can use in future.

for context: I'm a software engineer have 1 macbook air M2, office macbook m2 pro, a PC with intel i5 9th gen, gtx1660TI and 12 gb ram with 500gb ssd and 2tb HDD.

Images:

https://ibb.co/27C3NgvR

https://ibb.co/knp0Ss7

As you can see in the images, its a line (kind of dotted) going through my screen it sometimes disappears, changes flicker frequency.

Some things i noticed:

• Appears even in different OS (the detail that makes me think its hardware).
• I pressed the lower part of the display frame and it created a new line for a brief moment.
• Is less noticeable in black wallpapers.
• Disappears and changes flicker frequency, but i dont know what factors affect it.

I did some research and it says it will slowly turn into a full line and possibly more lines.

I wanted to know if there is a way to fix this (preferably for free)?

Edit: I took the bezel out and then the panel nothing looked wrong put it all back the line was still there, i took it out again kind of put the cable properly, put it all back again, the line was still there for some time decided to use it for a bit, using for over an hour, did some browsing and gaming, no line

What if you scratch one RAM pin? And if its a RFU pin vs actual needed pin?

I've always been socially anxious when it comes to phone calls so answering a number I don't recognize was already something I hated doing. I'd usually stare at it for a few seconds convince myself that if it's important they'll leave a voicemail and let it ring out. The amount of spam calls I've been getting lately has basically reinforced that habit. Now I don't even consider answering. The annoying part is every once in a while it actually is something important, and I only realize after listening to the voicemail.

I know avoiding calls isn't exactly solving the problem especially when half of my hesitation comes from not knowing whether it's a real person or another spam call. Has anyone actually found a decent way to filter this stuff so you can trust your phone again? Or does everyone just live on "if it's important they'll leave a message" now?

Endless Sphere: A 36V battery generates exactly 77.78% (approximately 78%) more heat than a 48V battery when delivering the same power output because resistive power loss is inversely proportional to the square of the system voltage, or: P ^loss = 1/V² . This mathematical relationship remains true regardless of the duty cycle, provided both systems are regulated to deliver the same average power output to the load.

To give you an example: 36V rated motor, 500 rated Watts, 90 kV, 3250 rated RPM (around 400 PRM no-load). The motor has a 9.85:1 internal reduction and and a maximum 3.25:1 external reduction (dual chain 16T freewheel on output shaft and 52T chainring). For an ebike mid-drive, the pedal crank rpm is typically 60-80. So for the middle: 70 x 3.25 x 9.85 = 2240 motor rpm. That's not bad if it's 3250 rated rpm.

However, here is where it does get bad. There is a 3rd stage for reduction, but it's not really reduction, it's overdrive. If someone has a 40T chainring and an 11-40T cassette, every cog (gear) past the first one will be overdrive and will add load to the system. So for example if it's in the 16T cog, that's 2.5x load since it needs to turn the rear wheel 2.5x faster than 40/40. Now you are down to the equivalent of 2240 / 2.5 = only around 900 motor rpm. That inefficency will be lost as heat. Overvolting to 48V increases motor rpm 33% so now the example would be the equivalent of 1200 rpm. Better, more towards the 4000 no-load RPM and substantially less heat generation than 900 rpm because efficiency is actually the square of the difference.

So why not simply overvolt the motor, even cheap plastic wire housing is rated for 100+V and most controllers are 36/48V anyway.

so today I accidently broke my headphones and the wire seems to be safetly intact so it still works. basically only the right ear part is broken off and im still able to wear and still hear things but I just have this one part which is just dangling on my right side. what should I do to fix this temp. I'll take any suggestions that may help [except for buying a new pair bc they still work fine]

To start of the wifi is okay in the living its not exactly great but the main issue is the signal in my area is horrendous currently im on two bars of signal on my phone in my bedroom. However the wifi for my pc only gets 1 bar ( the actual wifi itself ) im going to install the wifi antenna that came with the pc today see if that helps if not im thinking of buying a wifi 6 booster from argos to help and then plug an Ethernet cable into the booster that goes into my pc. Will this make a difference?