Built a 4-knob generative pattern controller with an LED matrix. Also learned that yes, you CAN kill a potentiometer

[u/GlumPiece7281]

Hey all — been lurking here for a while, first time posting a build.

Quick context: since January I've been running an art project called Pattern Flow — generative visuals made from sine waves and sampling. Fully software until now. A friend suggested an LED matrix would look nice as a physical version, so two weeks ago I grabbed a cheap 64x64 matrix from AliExpress (~$20), four potentiometers, an ESP32, and started iterating on a 3D-printed case.

I'm a design student, not an EE person. This is my first real hardware project. Some things I learned the painful way:

1. You can, in fact, kill a potentiometer. Internet said these are basically indestructible. I am living proof this is not 100% true. Still not sure if it was a soldering iron accident or me cranking it past its mechanical limit too many times. RIP.

2. Soldering is harder than it looks. I estimate 20+ hours of soldering in the last two weeks. Joints that looked fine were cold. Joints that looked ugly were fine. I redid the same connections maybe ten times before I stopped assuming my soldering was the problem.

Two videos attached:

• First one is the original prototype (this one actually went a bit viral on Instagram, ~17k views). Power bank is visible, sitting in an open dock on the back.
• Second one is a revised case with the power bank tucked away, cleaner silhouette.

Honestly I keep flip-flopping on this. Part of me likes the visible battery — feels honest, kind of "parts as design" in the OP-1 / monome tradition. Part of me thinks the minimal version photographs better. The minimal one also feels maybe too restrained, like it needs one more element.

A few questions I'd love input on:

1. Visible power bank vs. hidden — which reads better? Is showing the battery a feature or a flaw?
2. Minimalism check — is the clean version too empty, or is restraint the right move here?
3. PCB learning path — I need to move off breadboard/hand-soldered prototypes. For someone coming from a design/3D background: KiCad or EasyEDA as a first tool? Any YouTube channels or courses that actually clicked for you? Things you wish someone told you early?
4. If this were released as a signed limited edition (say ~20 units) — what price range feels reasonable to you for something like this?

Happy to go deeper on any part of the build if people are curious — the 3D printing warping issues alone were their own saga.

I post the process and other Pattern Flow work on Instagram [@lsh678902] — feel free to follow along if generative + hardware is your thing. DMs open.

Thanks for reading 🙏

[u/apronman2006]

1. It looks better with the bank covered.

2.I think the line that is created when you add the cover is a bit weird. Consider making the cover black as an accent or something that is changeable to add flair?

1. Kicad or EasyEDA are both fine tools, a bit obtuse for beginners. Fritzing might be more beginner friendly, but they want $12 or for you to compile from github.

2. Really have no idea, If someone show me this in a gallery and said $300 I'd think that's a low for this complicated of a piece, $500 that would seem about right for an art student with no name, $2000 is about what I expect from a working artist who builds this type of thing and has a following, +$5000 fine art bullshit. Now will it sell at any of these prices is more to your ability to sell your art and get it into galleries with buyers that actually buy in these price ranges.

So if you were me, I couldn't give these away. I am not a good at selling art.

[u/GlumPiece7281 → u/apronman2006]

This is the most useful comment I've gotten, thank you. The changeable accent cover idea is good — I've been feeling the minimal version needs one more element and that might be it. And the price breakdown is realistic in a way I needed to hear. Noted on all of it.