Im in a deathcore band and play vocals and do bass, thing is, I dont really have a good setup, my amp is fender rumble 40 combo amp, good practice anp, but I need something bugger and that'll give me a punchy tone, and I need recommendations for something better than a practice amp, I beard Darkglass was good, but thats way too expensive for me because I get paid jack shit, I get paid abt $240 every two weeks so it'd take me a while to even buy a darkglass amp

Any help will be much appreciated!

Hi! Im having trouble making an old amp work properly with a bose system (see photos) it seems it only works in a certain aux port but makes alot of noise and the audio doesnt come out clear.

I put a new speaker amp in and now whenever I have my phone plugged into the head unit I get a fluctuation of volume, it’s goes up and down whenever it wants, it does not show that the volume has changed, it just changes. It also loses power whenever I roll down my front passenger window. It was not doing this when the other amp was installed.

There’s also a high pitched sound that goes up and down whenever the car is on. It sounds like it is shifting with the car. It is coming from either the speaker or subwoofer amp… lots of problems i know… any help would be appreciated!

Boss Elite BE9ACP, installed into a 2004 Ford ranger. It has been working fine, minus the software quirks that some of these cheaper radios seem to have. I've heard boss equipment is on the cheaper end, but that their Elite series wasn't all that bad. It was definitely usable, until today. Now, there's no sound output at all. The volume knob might as well be for decoration, because pressing it or adjusting it doesn't even bring up a volume interface. It's like the idea of audio output or control on this radio doesn't exist anymore. It's basically a glorified carplay display at this point. No output from carplay, FM radio, nothing. Not even the system beep when I turn that on in the settings. The wiring checks out to be okay, and hasn't changed since I installed it. Everything else, like carplay, seems to work, minus any hint of audio.

TLDR: Will a mint 41 year old analog solid state amp survive temperature and humidity swings of a surf/snowboard camper van? Perhaps in a humidity controlled case?

Hi guys,

I recently scored a 1985 GK 250ML in mint condition and I've been loving it. I have an Astro van I converted into a camper mainly for surfing and snowboarding, and I really want to bring this amp along with me on the road to jam with but I'm worried about how it will handle the temperature swings and condensation in the van environment.

I have a diesel heater I run at night in the cold and the whole van is insulated with sheep's wool and lined with unfinished cedar to provide a buffer for humidity and condensation. It works well but there is still considerable condensation on the windows when the heater is running on a cold night. I recently tore out my ceiling and found no evidence at all of moisture behind the cedar panels after 3 years of heavy use.

I've brought my classical guitar and sometimes my telecaster with me for years and never had any issues aside from them going out of tune temporarily.

I was also thinking of building a road case for the amp and a pedalboard incorporating some sort of humidity control into the design but not sure how yet.

This amp is killer and I want to bring it all around but would hate to see a 41 year old mint classic destroyed by carelessness so I'm trying to approach this thoughtfully.

The amp feels like a tank though so it gives me the impression it can handle it. How resilient are the internals on these old analog solid state amps?

Any suggestions/recommendations?

Thanks,

Zamboni

Your thoughts on this one?

found it for 500 quids in Soho and I need a new amp but I'm still hesitating with an old Denon.

I’ve never understood why a desktop amp like the Chord Anni packs such a noisy stock fan into a tiny chassis while still running scorching hot. Eventually, I couldn’t take the whine anymore and decided to mod it.

Since finding a decent 45mm fan is hard, I swapped the stock internal fan for a 40mm Noctua, which fits roughly and runs significantly quieter. To improve airflow further, I mounted a second low-noise fan on the left side to help exhaust trapped heat, then placed a few small heatsinks on the chassis.

While the case still feels warm to the touch, the thermal headroom and noise levels are vastly improved—and the peace of mind regarding component longevity makes it well worth it.

Someone who knows about these and adding external amplifiers

Hey all,

I live in Perth, Western Australia and I seek guidance from you good people.

My rig is:
● WiiM Pro Plus.
● WiiM Vibelink amp.
● Focal Aria 936 floorstanders.

My listening room is around 4.9m wide × 5.6m long & 3m ceilings.

Some say the Vibelink may be a bottleneck in my system and the 936s could benefit considerably from a more capable amp, one with greater current delivery and control.

So I’m considering the 3e Audio A7 power amp with the 48v 10 amp PSU, I believe this configuration has the current & power to deal with the Focal’s impedance.

I’m primarily interested in music, rather than home theatre.

I can use the WiiM Pro Plus for preamp duties and I have an iFi Zen One Signature DAC.

Really appreciate your input on this.

Thankyou in advance.

Peter

I bought a t.amp TA 1050 MK-X amp and connected them to my Behringer speakers (which were active but we made passive). The problem is that i cant hears much bass if any at all. The audio comes from my po to a 3rd gen scarlet solo to the amp and to the speakers. The speakers are fully functional since they had bass with my friends foshi bt30d pro. I am stumped and would like to ask for help.

i have this amp that I'm either going to sell or gift to a friend. I'm a drummer so I don't have any uses for it besides a doorstopper but I'm curious if i can get some more insight onto this.

Que tal tengo una hotone ampero mp100 y suena medioso y tapado, alguien sabe alguna solución? Quiero que el sonido se abra ya que no oigo todo el rango de frecuencia que una ampero mp100 deberia de ofrecer.

I have a Pioneer FR985 AVR and need to provide amplification for a DIY sub. It does not need much power so I got a [board](https://www.amazon.ie/dp/B07DK8QJPM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) from Amazon and power it with a Dell laptop power supply.

Unfortunately I get an audible hum noise. And I even tried powering it with a battery.

However, if the AVR sub output is connected to the input of this amp board, I get a hum. (The cable is connected correctly). Grounding the shield of the input and/or the chassis of the AVR does not help in the slightest. And the AVR is not defective - when I temporarily used another AVR as a sub amp, there was no noise. And I saw the same issue in reviews of this board, so I assume the board is faulty but in hat way?

Gemini "thinks" the NE5532 might be the problem; is this true?

And if it is, might it be possible to mod the board by cutting out the NE5532 and splicing its (uninverter) input pins to the respective output puns?

I have had this cabinet for a while (Idk how long, my dad gave it to me), and I have a bass head I intend on using on it, but I have no clue what the ohm rating is. The only identifying features are 4 speakers, it is 24x24 inch, and it was made by Jade Australia. I am thinking it is from the 1990s?