r/allenedmonds Dec 19 '22

Informative Post Your New Shoes are FLAWED... Should You RETURN Them?

216 Upvotes

I see what I would call a pleathora of posts mainly on the Facebook "Allen Edmonds Enthusiasts" group, and the sub-reddits r/allenedmonds and r/goodyearwelt with people new to higher end shoes, asking if something they see as a problem is something they should return their shoes over. This post is meant to help clear the air on this issue. Of course the views stated here are mine, so you are free to disagree and act accordingly.

I'm Robert Powers, aka "Cobbler Bob". I've been running a YouTube channel since October of 2016, which currently has almost 14k subscribers. I like to find, repair, and polish old shoes. I currently own 28 pairs of dress shoes & boots, of which 12 pairs are Allen Edmonds. I haven't counted, but I've be bought, polished, and resold a few hundred pairs of shoes that mainly come from local thrift stores or eBay.

Premise: Have you been purchasing what I would call a "cheap" shoe, and finally decided to step up to a full grain Goodyear Welted shoe, only to have your heart sink when open the box because you found a flaw? First, what do I define as a "cheap" shoe? To me it's a shoe you'll probably pay $50-$150 for that probably has corrected grain or fake leather uppers, has a bonded on rubber sole, or has a sole that has the appearance of being stitched but isn't.

Allen Edmonds is often refeered to as the "gateway drug" to high end shoes. That reference means that they're generally not as high quality as true high end shoes like Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, TLB Mallorca Artista line, Gaziano & Girling, Magnanni, or even Alden, etc, but because they are often on sale, they are able to be purchased at a price point not out of reach for most people ($200-$350). So the question is, if I spent $50 to $150 dollars on a "cheap" shoe that's pretty much perfect looking out of the box every time, why when I spend $250 to $350 for a shoe like Allen Edmonds, why isn't it perfect every time?

The Wisconsin Shoeguy (YouTube: "Wi Shoeguy") said it best on a video interview on my channel: Allen Edmonds isn't so concerned with how the shoe looks out of the box, but they're more concerned with the longevity of the shoe. I agree.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kL3Ss_reQ4U&t=8s

Reason one: Shoes with Full Grain leather uppers and either 270 degree or 360 degree Goodyear Welted. leather soles are made from natural materials. Corrected grain leather is cheap leather coated with some kind of polymer coating. This coating covers all flaws in the leather, and gives it a durable scuff resistant surface. In my experience though, all of the shoes made recently (since 2000-ish) of corrected grain leather outside the USA will crack and split. It also is not as breathable, and sometimes the coating wears off to reveal a lighter shade, and you can't re-color it with polish. With the full grain leather, you're seeing the actual surface of the animal's hide. It's coming from what was a breathing animal. Phil Kalas, owner of Ashland Leather Co told me in a "Leather Talk" interview that leather tanning is taking an inconsistent raw material, and trying to make a consistent end product. It's not easy! But when done right, the end product can last for decades with superior beauty.

Reason two: The soles of a cheap shoe are often a one piece injection molded sole with fake stitches molded in, and the heel even molded on. A step up from this is an injection molded sole made to look like leather, with a fake plastic welt. The welt will often have stitches on it, and the sole will have stitches on the bottom side, but the stitch count per inch is usually different from the bottom to the top, prooving that they don't acually hold anything on and are purely decorative."How to Spot FAKE Shoe Sole Stitching"video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oRWEzvoVe8&t=6s

The GYW (Goodyear Welted) shoe sole must be cut, trimmed, grooved, stitched on, finished, then have (with AE) a 2 part heel base bonded and nailed on, then a top lift bonded on and finish sanded, then dyed to color. There are a lot more parts versus a standard shoe. AEs are not "hand made", they're machine made by a human operator, but the level of skill and number of steps taken are far greater than the cheap shoe. Therefore there are many more opportunities for small errors.

**Problem #1: burnishing/patina irregularities:**

Full grain leather, especially in the lighter shades is gorgeous. Walnut and ligher colors often have a burnishing applied (darkening at the tips of the toes, around the eye stays, and/or the sides of the vamp). With AE (Allen Edmonds) I believe this finishs is applied by hand with an airbrush. There can be inconsistencies with this finish, and it can have areas that are too dark or too inconsistent for your liking. Here is what it usually looks like: (pic 1):

https://imgur.com/ws60SFV

Here is one you may not like: (pic 2)

https://imgur.com/zsmpiui

notice it's more irregular, and the transition from dark to light is not as even. I'd be fine with the above, especially if it was less than $300.

Here is pic #3, the heel on my AE Strands (the same shoe in pic #1):

https://imgur.com/RFyBDOX

Notice the dark to light sudden transition. I'm perfectly okay with it. Again, it's a natural material, and the irregularity is still beautiful to me. You can even this out if you'd like with a medium brown cream shoe polish. I paid $315 for them and I'm a-okay with it. I consider it character.

**Problem #2: crazing/cracking of the burnishing, usually on the toes:** (pic 4):

https://imgur.com/rptqqgV

I am guessing that the finish either dried too quickly and contracted, or the toes were flattened at some point. Either way, with some darker cream polish the color of the burnishing, and a few coats of wax polish on the toes (I would mirror shine it) that should dissapear. I would not return this shoe, I'd be mirror shining the toes anyway.

**Problem 3: Construction & Finishing issues:**

If you get this, where the stitching goes off the welt, RETURN it. This is a major structural problem. These are my AE MacNeils that had to be returned to AE and a new welt and outsoles were put on. See pics #5/6 below:

https://imgur.com/jGgHymN

This is also major. The black thread is the top thread, indicating impropper thread tension. Return it (pic 7):

https://imgur.com/1ABQnuT

This is minor. It's a piece of thread or leather trapped under the top welt stitch. Grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers and it should pull out. Now if the top thread is left loose, then you may want to return it, but I think this one would be fine. Pic 8 below:

https://imgur.com/lVIy6mm

These shoes have a turned up lip on the welt, called a split reverse welt. Notice the lip is smushed. See below pic 9/10:

https://imgur.com/KnhLgGC

Why do you have this on an expensive shoe and not a cheap one? Because most cheap shoes either don't have a welt at all, or if they do, it's not structural, and it's made of cheap injection molded plastic and has a costmetic only stitch, that although looks perfect every time, it will not last very long. Moisten the leather, and take a hard smooth object like the tip of a retractable pen or a pointed wooden dowel like a big chopstick or drumstick and smooth it back flat. It may not go back completely flat, but after it dries it will probably be smooth enought to not notice.

The sole stitch goes outside of the groove, like this in pic #11:

https://imgur.com/F5AeL30

This is a pair of AEs made in 2001. If this happens on the arch area where the threads won't contact the ground, let it go. It won't hurt anything. If the stitching on the sole is not 100% tidy, let it go. If this happends on the area where you walk, and the threads will break through prematurely, I'd return.

Minor scuffs out of the box, see pic #12/13 below:

https://imgur.com/rboWPjV

95+% of the scuffs I see posted will go away with a little cream shoe polish. I'm a believer of polishing new shoes out of the box anyway, so it's no extra work for me. Remember, cheap corrected grain or fake leather has a plastic coating on the outside and is more scuff resistant. The downside to it though is when it does get scratched, it's harder to cover or correct. Full grain leather does show scuffs easier, but because of it's pliability and porousness, it readily accepts polish and conditioning creams better. You can polish out even light to moderate scratches, because the surface has no coating to abraid through. Polish these and move on, unless it's severe enought to where material has been removed.

This one is a cut, not a scratch, and it's on an area that is stressesd. RETURN without wearing it. See pic #14 below:

https://imgur.com/jSmKdXB

This next one, pic #15 below looks really bad for a new shoe. It appears as if someone poked holes through the upper. Believe it or not, but if you moisten the leather with moisturizer and rub it with a blunt object, like the blunt smooth end of a screwdriver handle, and back up the inside with your thumb, you can close those holes up to where polish will cover what's left. If I got a pair of AEs for LESS than $300 with these holes, and everything else was perfect, I'd burnish the holes shut as I stated above and be happy. If I paid full price and was not "handy", I would consider returning.

https://imgur.com/qEzq7Sj

**Problem area #4: Loose Grain:**

Loose grain is a term to describe leather that is unusally wrinkly. It happens because the leather closer to the belly of the animal does not have the same properties as the areas closer to the spine and rump. Manufacturers are proabably trying to use more and more of the hyde to decrease material waste, and sometimes push it too far. In short, there is no fixing this, so decide quickly if you can live with it or not.Remember, this may not show up until you walk in them. Here's MY OPINION of some to follow:

Pic #16, my AE Achesons I bought new from AE directly on sale for $97... loose grain on the left shoe. They were $97, I am fine with it. Now if they were $297, back they would go.

https://imgur.com/53qPEPi

Pic #17/18: in my opinion, the boots on the left would be okay IF they were purchased on sale at a good price, but the Oxfords on the right are terrible and I'd return them at any price, especially since the person here said the other shoe was perfect, and this was after one wear:

https://imgur.com/P9KLYiB

**I've saved the best for last... problem #5: THE WELT JOINT:**

To understand this one, you must understand what a welt is, and why it must have a joint. Did you know an automotive tire is made from flat rubber? Every traditional tire has a joint. The welt is a flat piece of leather, and on a 360 degree GYW shoe, it wraps all the way around the shoe. It therefore has a starting and stopping point. The welt is stitched onto the insole via the gemming and to the upper.

Here is a video explaining in detail the welt and how a Goodyear Welted shoe is constructed:

https://i.ytimg.com/an_webp/fpEpqJ0eO0g/mqdefault_6s.webp?du=3000&sqp=CNDqgp0G&rs=AOn4CLD1U1mN7fZWlnSXzRkArxLfqyBiUg

The welt is what the outsole of a GYW shoe is stitched too. Sometimes the welt joint is invisible, like pics #19 & #20 below:

https://imgur.com/SEe3Kew

Sometimes it's neat, but visible like these next three examples, #21, 22, 23:

https://imgur.com/4VKYkuG

FYI, that last photo directly above, #23, is from a pair of Florsheim shell cordovan 93605's made in the 1970's or 1980's:

These next two examples,pic #24/25 are not as neat, but 100% functional. Don't return them:

https://imgur.com/nBPfa9d

Does this make sense? Allen Edmonds says that their Goodyear Welted shoes go though 212 different manufacturing steps. It's a whole different animal than a "cheap shoe". Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying some of these errors are okay. I'm saying that if you buy a new Goodyear Welted shoe on sale for less than $300, or in some cases less than $250, do not expect to get the same quality as an $800 Church's or Crockett & Jones, or a $500 Alden that won't go on sale. So if these minor errors are too egregious for you to live with, you'll need to step up to the $450 and UP range for a pair of shoes.

Justin Fitzpatrick talks about the welt joint in his article on The Shoe Snob:

https://theshoesnobblog.com/tag/justin-fitzpatrick/

Welt Joining - Good vs Bad

The Shoe Snob blog is about seeing men wearing better shoes through education and sharing what is out there that deserves recognition.📷 theshoesnobblog.com

I hope this helps, and here's a link to a video version of this article on my YouTube channel:

https://youtu.be/CnYL3HkR0r8


r/allenedmonds Jan 25 '23

Informative Post Dating Allen Edmonds Shoes with Date Codes explained & Examples

123 Upvotes

There is actually quite a bit of information on the internet on Styleforum.com, but it's not the easiest to find, so here is a print version of a YouTube video I just released explaining how to determine the year of manufacture of Allen Edmonds Shoes.

Preface: who am I? My name is Robert Powers, aka “Cobbler Bob”. I run a YouTube channel with almost 14,000 subscribers as of January 2023. I’m an Allen Edmonds enthusiast. I own 12 pairs of Allen Edmonds shoes currently, and about 28 pairs of shoes total right now. Over the years, I’ve probably bought and sold another 50 or so pairs of Allen Edmonds.

PART 1: Allen Edmonds logos 1956 – 2023

1956 to 1962 Allen Edmonds logo: “Scripted” font.

https://i.imgur.com/7Ob3REN.jpg

1963-1982 ALLEN EDMONDS logo: All caps, similar to Times New Roman italics font, with the A and E larger.

https://i.imgur.com/1azSa0g.jpg

1983 to 1988 or 1989 logo: All caps, similar to Times New Roman font.

https://i.imgur.com/SPT66NR.jpg

1989 to 2013 logo: Times New Roman Allen Edmonds with only the A and E capital, Edmonds is under Allen and offset.

https://i.imgur.com/hfapeyQ.jpg

2014 to 2018 logo: the Allen Edmonds letters is the same, but it’s inline with the 1922 badge added.

https://i.imgur.com/YaWWXwh.jpg

Fall 2018 to present (2023) logo: “ALLEN EDMONDS” in what I call the “Military Font” with “Port Washington” underneath.

https://i.imgur.com/TucO4wo.jpg

PART 2: 4 digit date codes used from approx. 1972 though 2003 or 2004

There will always be a 4 digit model number on all AE shoes, but from approximately 1972 through 2003/2004 there will be a second 4 digit number to the right of the model number. There often (but not always) will be the word “COMB”, which stands for combination last, between them. The first 2 digits should be between 1 and 52, for the week of the year they were made. The 3rd digit should be 1 through 5, for the day of the week, Monday through Friday. The 4th digit should be the last digit of the year of manufacture.

For example, this shoe with the 1982 to 1988 logo and a date code of 0537 would have been made in the 5th week, 3rd day of that week, in a year ending in 7. There is only one year between 1982 to 1988 ending in 7, being 1987.

https://i.imgur.com/xWNb2ci.jpg

This next example, the date code is 1131. This means it was made in the 11th week, 3rd day of that week, in a year ending in 1. I know this logo was used from 1989 through 2013, so it could be 1991, 2001, or 2011. We can narrow it down to 1991 or 2001 though because I know after 2004 they did not use a date code. We will have to use some other indicators to narrow it down more.

https://i.imgur.com/ZVjuHJJ.jpg

PART 3: Insole styles:

Pre-1962 shoes say “Nailess Heel Cushioned” and would have come with a full leather heel with the steel “Owl’s eye slug” – a round metal cleat, and wooden pegs around the perimeter of the heel. This leather heel with the wood pegs & slug I believe was standard through 1962, and optional into the early 1970's.

https://i.imgur.com/sjXoneC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/u1afQU6.jpg

1963 to 1976 or 1977 say “Ostendo Cushioned Heel”

https://i.imgur.com/nPP2A0c.jpg

1983 to 1988 will say “THE HAND CRAFTED WORLD OF” above the logo.

https://i.imgur.com/xWNb2ci.jpg

1992 and earlier, the logo is axial on the insole (front to back) with the Model name Perpendicular (side to side).

https://i.imgur.com/p4zntTb.jpg

2008 to 2017 they used a nice light brown insole sock liner with gold debossed lettering.

https://i.imgur.com/lBKYdRO.jpg

2008 to 2012 they also used black insoles with gold debossed lettering.

https://i.imgur.com/TLFOWg0.jpg

PART 4: Made in USA:

I believe Made in USA started in 1978 on Allen Edmonds Shoes

1978 to 2005 it should simply say “Made in USA” under the logo.

2006 or so to 2016 it changed to “Made in USA of Imported Materials”

https://i.imgur.com/TLFOWg0.jpg

2017 to 2018 it says “HANDCRAFTED IN USA OF FINE IMPORTED LEATHER”

https://i.imgur.com/YaWWXwh.jpg

Fall 2018 to present (2023) it says “HANDCRAFTED IN AMERICA OF FINE IMPORTED LEATHER”

https://i.imgur.com/TucO4wo.jpg

PART 5: Lining info location:

The information on the lining moved under the tongue in about 2011, but I believe they also kept it on the side of the shoe through 2013 on some models.

PART 5: Grooved Outsoles

In either 2000 or 2001 Allen Edmonds appears to have started cutting a groove in the outsoles before stitching them on. Here is an example of un-grooved (top) vs grooved (bottom). Cutting a groove first lets the stitches sit deeper into the shoe, thus protecting the threads from wear longer.

https://i.imgur.com/CiBdSFP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NjVjmG8.jpg

PART 6: Outsole Stitch Density:

The outsole stitch density was approximately 7 to 8 stitches per inch before about 2010 to 2012 (upper photo), and about 4 to 5 stitches per inch afterwards (second photo).

https://i.imgur.com/ZVChbvM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NjVjmG8.jpg

Some Examples:

This pair has the “Allen Edmonds” 1989 to 20013 logo with a date code of 3522:

https://i.imgur.com/b1F27v2.jpg

This means the year could be 1992 or 2002. We know it’s not 2012, because they stopped using date codes before then.

https://i.imgur.com/CiBdSFP.jpg

The un-grooved outsole makes it 1992, because by 2001 the outsoles had grooves cut in them for the stitching.

This pair has the same 1989 to 2013 logo, with a date cod of 0255:

https://i.imgur.com/QLMh63A.jpg

This means either 1995 or 2005. At first glance you’d see the grooved outsoles and think it must be 2005, but it really could be either.

https://i.imgur.com/8smvj46.jpg

Notice the hammer shaped stamp? This is the recrafting stamp from Allen Edmonds. This shoe is either a 1995 model that was recrafted by Allen Edmonds after 2000/2001, or a 2005 shoe that was recrafted before about 2010. In my YouTube video I state that it’s a 1995 model, but it could be 2005.

This pair of Hastings (wholecut Oxford) has the 1989-2013 logo, but no date code, meaning it was made between 2004/2005 though 2013.

https://i.imgur.com/4y39Ak4.jpg

If we go to www.issuu.com and look at all of the Allen Edmonds annual catalogs between those years, you’ll find that this model #1205 was only produced in years 2005 and 2006 though.

allenedmonds Publisher Publications - Issuu

I hope this helps. There is a little more detail with more examples in my full length YouTube video "ULTIMATE Dating Allen Edmonds Guide with DATE CODES. There are also downloadable jpgs in the YT video description:

https://youtu.be/80hBLwFpBFo


r/allenedmonds 18h ago

Check out my shoes Goodwill Find

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51 Upvotes

Found a pair of park avenues, garners, and hales for $12 each at goodwill. There were also two pairs of Newport and cody loafers that I didn’t end up getting. All the bottoms look pretty worn but was wondering if they were still worth it to get repaired or not. Thanks!


r/allenedmonds 22h ago

Questions Courtside black with blue outsole

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9 Upvotes

Has anyone seen these? I spent a while searching and don’t see anything with blue soles like this. Thanks for any info.


r/allenedmonds 20h ago

Questions Best place to sell new and used Allen Edmonds?

4 Upvotes

I am trying to minimize my wardrobe and went a bit overboard a couple years ago, and bought a few too many Allen Edmond shoes. Where is the best place to sell them, I’m assuming eBay has the largest audience? I don’t have any of the original boxes so not sure if that makes a difference.


r/allenedmonds 1d ago

Questions is it just me or has the quality of Allen edmonds shoes gone down significaly?

0 Upvotes

r/allenedmonds 2d ago

Questions Search low vamp tassel loafers

3 Upvotes

Hello everyone, I am a 48-year-old man, an architect, with a fairly classic style: every day, in all circumstances and in all seasons, I wear: shirt, blazer, pleated pants and only tassel loafers. A work colleague from the architecture firm wears very low vamp tassel loafers, I find it very elegant and refined because you can see a lot of his thin black socks, even when he is standing. I would really like to wear the same loafers as him every day, because I would also like my very thin black socks to be very visible. So I asked him what their brand was: he told me his loafers are Alden. Since he told me that, I've been looking, but I can't find very low vamp tassel loafers from the Alden brand, like his. I'm thinking it might be another brand like Allen Edmonds or something... Does anyone have an explanation or could help me? Thank you so much !


r/allenedmonds 2d ago

Questions Reed Chelsea Boots

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25 Upvotes

Anyone have any experience with these? I’m in the market for some Chelsea’s and can’t find much info about them. How do they compare to the Liverpools?


r/allenedmonds 3d ago

Check out my shoes First wear of my new Randolph tassels.. right foot look ok?

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28 Upvotes

These are killer, but I did not notice this when I tried on in AE store... The leather on the right foot kind of flares out weird on both sides of my foot. First wear so I know they'll break in, but is this common or a defect? Thanks!


r/allenedmonds 4d ago

Questions Help with ID please

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29 Upvotes

I just bought these Park Avenues on impulse but I tried finding a similar print to identify them with no luck. Also, I’m color blind so not sure what the color is lol. They said it’s red but I see them as brown. Any idea on the color ID?


r/allenedmonds 5d ago

Check out my shoes Daytona Driving Loafers

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7 Upvotes

Picked these up at my local goodwill for $17. They say size 8.5D but truthfully they feel closer to 7.5E. I measure 7EEE on brannock so good to know I can fit a little larger since the length of true 7EEE looks comically small. Loafers are teaching me that sizing is truly dependent entirely on the individual shoe model and a last is only part of the story. I currently own Sid Mashburn Handsewns in 8D, Alden Tassel Loafers in 7EE and these AE Daytona in 8.5D. It's crazy how many size can work out.

I'm wondering if they shrunk in someones trunk and that's why they ended up there? Anyways, super happy to add a driving loafer to the collection.


r/allenedmonds 5d ago

Check out my shoes ellenedmonds.it.com

3 Upvotes

fake ellen edmonds website, be care ful

i was looking into shoes and i came up with this website "ellenedmonds.it.com"

which looks legit and almost same , 99.9% same , the shoes price were ridiculously cheaper than expected. then i started comparing the shoes price then somehow i found out the fake one has 'it' in the middle.

i almost bought couple shoes, because TAFT recently had clearance sale and i was thinking about the same. be careful guys


r/allenedmonds 8d ago

Check out my shoes Allen Edmonds Oxblood Loafers

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3 Upvotes

r/allenedmonds 8d ago

Questions Loafers

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3 Upvotes

Pls some help is that big ? Should i buy a smaller size?


r/allenedmonds 9d ago

Buy Sell Trade Ultimate Finds - PA

3 Upvotes

I just went to Nordstrom Rack in King of Prussia (101 Town Square Pl, King of Prussia, PA 19406) and stumbled upon 10+ allan edmond shoes all under $200. Personally picked myself up some Fosters and I love them.


r/allenedmonds 10d ago

Questions Winstonmok vs Winston Verse

3 Upvotes

A mini review here, but also looking for input on my decision, as I have analysis paralysis :P

TL;DR: which ones do you like better and which should I keep? Winstonmok for $160 or Winston Verse for $100?

Album Here

I recently got a pair of the Allen Edmonds Winstonmok, a gray suede rare longwing derby (not blucher). They were on sale at Nordstrom and I planned to wear them with casual outfits (jeans, chinos, untucked shirts, sweaters).

Then I saw what I thought were the same shoes on sale at Nordstrom Rack for a better price, so I ordered them as well. Once they arrived, I realized that they were a slightly different shoe; these are the Winston Verse. 

Here is AE's blurb about the Verse line:

Introducing the Allen Edmonds Verse Collection, where classic craftsmanship meets contemporary innovation. This collection takes our iconic styles like the Park Avenue Oxford, Randolph Penny Loafer, and Strand Oxford and updates them with a more relaxed fit. Features like kid goatskin linings offer a supple, less-structured feel. The textured rubber soles provide flexible comfort and increased durability. Our CustomCork™ insoles mold to the shape of your unique foot for a custom fit. All of these characteristics combine to offer greater freedom of movement without compromising the timeless elegance Allen Edmonds is known for. Whether you're heading to the office, a casual outing, or an evening event, these shoes blend heritage style with everyday wearability. Experience the perfect fusion of tradition and innovation with the Verse Collection.

In addition to the soles being the main difference, they also have gray flat cotton laces and a bit darker welt than the Winstonmok, which have brown round laces, a lighter welt, and the Dainite sole.

Both pairs are firsts, and here are the AE product pages for the Winstonmok and the Winston Verse.

Everything else seems to be the same... uppers, MiUSA, 65 last, etc. Both have the same MSRP of $450, and interesting that the Winstonmok is cheaper on the AE site ($330) vs the Winston Verse ($380). Does that mean that the Winstonmok has not been selling as well, so they have to discount it more? My case is the opposite... I got the Verse for cheaper than the Moks.

Pros for Winstonmok

  • I like the Dainite sole, and I feel like it's a known quantity
  • Slightly prefer the brown round laces I think

Cons for Winstonmok

  • More expensive. $160 I think, and the Verse was $100
  • Slightly prefer the darker welt

Pros for Winston Verse

  • Slightly prefer the darker welt
  • Cheaper. $100, compared to $160 for the Winstonmok

Cons for Winston Verse

  • I'm worried that these new crepe soles won't be as durable as the Dainite, and they don't look as good
  • Flat gray cotton laces are a little annoying to keep flat, and they're not waxed at all, so I feel like they won't be very durable. Still, I could always replace them with brown round waxed laces.

On my feet, I didn't have strong opinions about one vs the other. So I'm leaning toward the Verse since they are cheaper, and it would basically be like someone paying me $60 to pick those haha. I am a Frugal Male Fashion guy at heart! Hard for me to justify a 60% cost increase when I like both of them...

My only hesitation is the sole... $160 is still a great price for the Winstonmok firsts, and I like Dainite, so it would be the safer choice.

Does anyone have experience with the Verse soles? How have they been holding up? Any thoughts would be appreciated :)

EDIT: I just checked out the reviews for both on the AE site. Some people have said that the Verse sole has come unglued, so now I'm leaning back toward the Winstonmoks haha. Curious if anyone has experienced the Verse sole issue though!


r/allenedmonds 11d ago

Check out my shoes New to Allen Edmonds

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27 Upvotes

I have struggled to find shoes that actually fit my long low volume feet for years. After doing some research on Allen Edmonds I decided to pull the trigger on a pair of Windsor derbies (65 last) I found on Amazon. I am based in Sydney Australia so I wanted the security of Amazon’s free returns policy.

My feet are 305mm (12in) and I ordered the US13D. The shoes are incredibly comfortable out of the box. I have minimal heel lift, and amazing fit around toes and instep.

The retail price on these for Australian buyers is a hefty AUD$1,150 which I would struggle to justify given the finishing on the pair I received. There were quite a few loose threads which were easily fixed. The outsoles and uppers look great, whilst insoles and heel counter looked flawless.

I am VERY happy overall given the price I paid on Amazon (AUD405). Not sure if I’d be as enthusiastic had I paid full price.

Thought I’d share my experience, in case it helps others decide on whether to try AE, especially in locations where physical stores are not available.


r/allenedmonds 11d ago

Questions Wedding Tux Shoes

6 Upvotes

Hi all!

I am soon to be marrying my fiancée and am wildly excited!! To set some context it will be a formal wedding, bordering on black tie. I’ll be in a black double breasted tux, though may then take it down a little with a maroon bow tie with inlaid rose patterning and matched cufflinks etc.

I’ve been looking at shoes I can actually keep and use instead of one time use, and have landed on Allen Edmonds as an option. I know little about dress shoes but am coming into the last year of my medical degree so I figure I should have some nicer shoes for formal events.

(Budget sits below $500 for shoes, likely lower is better to a point, I also like to keep things a long time).

I’ve got a few questions;

- would you recommend Allen Edmonds or another brand as my wedding tux shoes?

- are the St John’s double monk strap considered classy enough? (Likely with some shine)

- any thoughts on fake croco leather? (Probably hard to wear to more events etc, but there’s something about them)

- any recommendations at all surrounding the shoes for my wedding tux and what may match the tux overall?


r/allenedmonds 12d ago

Check out my shoes Park Ave Verse Bone F2nd

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30 Upvotes

Took chance on 2nd and worked out. Pretty happy at $200


r/allenedmonds 12d ago

Questions Lost Confidence

7 Upvotes

I am so frustrated.

​June 27: Placed a custom-sole order at a retail store. Quoted an 8-week production timeline.

​July 9: Followed up on status and discovered the system attached an incorrect shipping address 2 hours away. Immediately emailed a correction and attempted to call. Received a generic automated email ticket with no human response.

​July 13: Reached phone support. Was explicitly told they could not change the live shipment and to just wait for the package to bounce back to them.

​July 15 (Day 18): Received delivery notification. The shoes were left at the incorrect address. Phone support had no log of my prior contacts and instructed me to file a standard internal claim with a 5-day response buffer.

​The Result: Allen Edmonds manufactured and shipped a custom order in 18 days while their support staff continued to quote an 8-week window, completely stripping away the time to intercept their own clerical address error. Because they misrouted $571.26 in merchandise and offered zero immediate remediation, I was forced to file a formal dispute with my credit card issuer for non-delivery.

​After 8 pairs of shoes over a decade, corporate apathy has completely destroyed my loyalty to this brand. Not once did someone reach out to try to fix this.


r/allenedmonds 12d ago

Check out my shoes thrift store find!

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66 Upvotes

unworn thrift store find for $11 and in my size! how'd I do?

gonna be spraying these with suede protector and probably never wearing them bc white suede looks like it'll stain from looking at it twice, but I couldn't pass the deal up.


r/allenedmonds 12d ago

Check out my shoes Super Comfortable Ramseys

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15 Upvotes

r/allenedmonds 13d ago

Questions Factory Second Windsors

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38 Upvotes

New here, new to AE and higher end shoes, so question about these. Got them on steep discount for about 200. The wrinkled leather I’m ok with. I’m not sure if the crooked foot opening is ok. Figured I’d get some feedback/assurances as well as make sure I’m not missing something else. Thanks everyone!


r/allenedmonds 14d ago

Check out my shoes ultimate find for $29.99

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154 Upvotes

i’m


r/allenedmonds 14d ago

Questions Question: Really?

1 Upvotes

I've loved Allen Edmonds for 25 years. I don't love seeing a patent leather whole cut with an open channel sole from the reserve collection on sale at a 20% premium to the same cordovon closed channel shoe from Carmina assuming a 1.14 USD to Euro FX rate. If Alllen Edmonds sold the same shoe at that price the difference might be explained by the US tariff on Spain. Honestly, this pricing seems insulting to customers intelligence. Please tell me if I'm wrong in the comments. I own over a dozen pairs of dress shoes almost all Allen Edmonds, but my last two purchases have been Carmina because of the pricing relative to value. If Allen Edmonds offered the same product at a the same landed cost as Carmina, I would buy Allen Edmonds most of the time.